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The key to a beautiful Bizmarck is what goes on underground around it. It appears deficient. Weevils or bug infestations are a symptom of the underlying problem. I have had 2 growing now since 2018 west of Jax. They respond well to Heavy cypress mulching around the base, with about a 6 inch gap between the mulch and trunk. I’m talking 2-3’ high of mulch, going out about 6-8’ radial. Bizzys absolutely despise anything competing with its root system. Don’t be afraid to use fish Emulsion, and if it looks that bad, palm Nutritional spray but only until it’s shooting out the beautiful desired spears again. Splash of copper fungicide to stop any infections in holes and down the crown also.

May I ask where you got your seeds from? I'd love to buy some seedlings, but wrong continent, so not going to work.

Queens respond really well to Palm Nutriontial spray. Do it at sunset if possible.

Two of those seeds has germinated now! It seems to take even years to germinate. I will take them to 9a zone when they grow up. It can adapt non-limestone soils, as it does in habitat in Guangxi, China——it doesn't always occur on limetone hills.

It’s pretty amazing it’s growing up there. I believe according to google maps, it’s been there since 2012 or 2013.

Copernicia are all pretty slow in my yard. I have an Alba a bit smaller than yours, and it also only grows a couple of small fronds per year. It is probably similar to Gigas, Bailey and Fallaensis when they are small. Very slow...maybe not "painfully slow" but definitely slow.

Recovering foxtails in Altamonte Springs:

One of the holy grail oaks of Mexico. Quercus tarahumara. Two specimen at John Fairey Garden.

A few more of Quercus crassifolia. One of my favorite Mexican species based on the leaf underside z

Price reduction on some palms ( see details above)

#1 Actinorhytis calapparia 3 gal $25 (4 available) price reduce #2 Pinanga coronata 1gal $20 (4 available) #3 Arenga undulatifolia 1gal $15 (1 available) #4 Sabal mauritiiformis 3gal $25 (2 available) price reduce #5 Archontophoenix tuckeri 3gal $20 (1 available) #6 kentiopsis oliviformis 1gal $30 (2 available) #7 Heterospathe elata 1 gal $15 (0 available) sold #8 Pritchardia thurstonii 1gal $20 (1 available) price reduce #9 Chambeyronia hookeri 3gal $40 (6 available) price reduce #10 Ptychosperma propinquum 1gal $15 (2 available) #11 Coccothrinax alexandri 1gal $25 (0 available) sold Local pickup on 3gals in miami (Westchester area) Shipping available on 1gals at buyer's expense. Pictures in order of list above

A leafbase came off a Chrysalidocarpus prestonianus. Plenty of orange color wasrevealed.

Keep trying if the male is ready before the female, store the pollen in the refrigerator until such a time through observation.

My guess is it wants more water during the hot months. Maybe aerate the soil manually with a stiff garden fork, then lightly water for 15-20 seconds. Let that moisture sit for 1 to 3 minutes. Water a second time afterwards for about 20 minutes.

Quiet directly off Mexico, for the moment. Same can't be said further west in the E. Pac. In, or headed to Hawaii soon? keep a close eye on the big red blob above as we head thru the week..

After about 20 years, I finally harvested seeds off one of my big Needle Palms. A pair of reading glasses and the speed of a sloth avoided injury. Would some days in the freezer help them?

Hello. I just acquired two 40 foot date palms that are growing in west Sonoma County CA in heavy clay soil. The ground water is eight to -ten feet deep. The bottom palm fronds are yellow so I think they need fertilizing and maybe water? Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated

That silver variegation on the leaves is stunning, almost looks hand-painted with the water droplets catching the light. And those glossy black fruit dangling down really do complete the whole miniature-jungle look for the pot. Definitely adding this one to the "must track down" list now.

I have four, two males and two females. They bloom constantly but have never fruited. I tried hand pollinating last year with no success. Maybe someday…

My alfredii is looking like its dying, not from cold but possible root rot. Interested to see when you guys threw in the towel. How long did you guys give it until cutting them down?

What a joke this giant storm system has been rolling through all day. It’s been dark and rumbling for 5 or 6 hours and yet it still won’t rain at my place. I’ve just been threading the needle all day long with storms passing on all sides. This is the phenomenon that I see at my location. They’ll get within a mile and either fade out, bounce off a different direction or split and go around like they are today. The grass in the photo gets irrigated daily otherwise it would be dead.

I don’t grow Copernica palms, why they are just to slow, and you’re palms are just that example of how slow!

Wavering between 100 and 105F out there at 12:43PM with some recycled smoke / light, lingering dust hanging in the air. Hot ..and a bit humid, but far better than it has been. For the next few days at least, temps will hang in the " not too bad for August " range, before trending up, for a couple days at least, by the end of the week, ..per the current forecast thinking. A swing ..and a miss last night storm - wise.. W/ most of the activity seen blowing up as it headed west, out of the valley. We shall see if tonight is the night the rest of town redeems itself, or ..if the wait for a big, valley - wide storm / heavy rain event shall continue. Due to last night's storms, today could be a down day, or ..because it has been clear all day so far, perhaps thermodynamic -related forcing / the atmosphere across most of the valley not being worked over last night ( ....compared to areas west of town at least ) will be adequate to allow storms forming up in the mountains currently to progress across the valley -intact- Another down trend in activity is possible late week / next weekend but, ..we'll see. Some current model thinking keeps Monsoonal activity elevated thru -at least- the start of next week.. On a side note, for those interested, Daniel Swain is live ( on You Tube ) discussing his thoughts on this year's El Nino. If you miss the live discussion, it will be recorded and viewable when you have time to. https://www.youtube.com/live/0THLEMorMDI

I have a handful of palms that while appearing healthy, simply don't grow vertically much. Like a 15 year old Ravenea glauca, that is perhaps 2 feet tall overall, throws 3 or 4 nice green leaves a year, but never gets any bigger. Like yours, I just can't figure it out. Sorry, wish I could!

I'd leave it alone, it looks fine. Growth rate has to do with several factors including sunlight, these want that intense sunlight. The palms also like water but the best watering frequency will have to do with your soil and how it drains. If you must, you can use a surfactant to try and loosen the soil up(SDS or alternately the trade name SLS) but just watering more may just suffocate roots if your soil is of a limited drainage. Sodium dodecyl sulfate(SDS) or alternately sodium laurel sulfate(SLS) are potent surfactants. Sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), also known as sodium lauryl sulfate, is a strong anionic surfactant that lowers water surface tension and helps water penetrate tight spaces. While it can wet hydrophobic or oil-contaminated ground and aid in soil washing remediation, using pure industrial detergent on garden or landscape soil is generally discouraged because it can disrupt microbial life and damage plant roots. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11596332/ I used this in Arizona on my heavy clay soils along with a humic acid in the mix. It will help drainage and subsequent penetration of the humic acid into the soil. Humic acid makes a favorable root growing chemical environment by supporting beneficial microbe growth. If you get the concentrate, use just 1 fl oz per gallon(1/128, less than 1%) to prevent harmful effects. For me it was a one time thing and the drainage did improve. Sulfur pellets did the rest as they are slowly converted to sulfates that form gypsum with Ca in the soil, essentially correcting drainage permanently with enough sulfur. Hi calcium clay is water repellent due the Ca:Ca bonding which is broken down with the slow production of Sulfate from sulfur(go slow with sulfur, not fast with ammonium sulfate with can shift pH rapidly). If the soil is rocky, not much you can do to increase drainage. In florida I don't need any drainage correction that I cant achieve by digging and ammending so I dont use SDS at all. Use it sparingly and wisely and follow with a few humic acid rinses. For some reason I remember you have rocky soil Konstantinos, so just keep doing what you are doing it looks healthy.