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Beautiful flamethrower palm! My flamethrower palm was given to me by a friend in 2003. It was most likely two years old. I purposefully kept it in a very small pot for these many years to keep it small. I repotted it into a larger pot a little over a year ago and it’s now growing bigger and faster. Unfortunately, I don’t have a shady spot for it to be planted into the ground.😞 It probably would be 15 ft or taller by now if it had been planted into the ground.

Well said. Football has had so many legends, but only a few leave a mark that lasts for generations. Whatever your level as a player or fan, you could feel his influence.

These are the palms growing in my front yard. They are all fairly recently planted between 1 and 3 years in the ground. My Chamaerops humilis that has an oddly strong costapalmate shape to all the new leaves that have grown this year. it’s only the newest leaves on the main trunk doing this. The oldest leaves are flat. Butia odorata that I got from Home Depot for $70. I wish it was blue but for that price I’m not going to be picky. I did a deep dive on an older post talking about the shift from most of the mass produced ones being blue to now the green ones being most common. I also wonder if the ones with strong blue coloration may be more hardy.. Sabal rosei that @Chester B inspired me to try that was planted this summer. It’s a decent size and was a really reasonable price from project palm Rhapidophyllum hystrix planted this spring. It’s in part sun because I had heard they appreciate some shade.. but I’m not sure that shade would be necessary in PNW climate. It does get at least 6+ hours of strong sun though. It has 4 pups and I’m trying to decide if I should just select a few to have a more structured look or just let it grow fully wild bush style. Trachycarpus princeps x wagnerianus Still very small but starting to really speed up this summer. It has some nice blue coloration and the underside of the leaves are super white but it doesn’t show up well in the pic Trachycarpus fortunei is just a required staple in the PNW. It’s a random seedling but it’s got really nice blue coloration on the underside of the leaves and the leaves are surprisingly rigid on it. It grows so fast, pushes 3 spears at a time all growing season. Sabal minor - this year it just started picking up speed.. it’s starting to open its 3rd leaf of the year and there’s a nice size spear behind it already. The old leaves are pretty yellow I think from not fully realizing how quickly the planting spot got dry last summer. All of these are planted on a large south facing mound. It has been helpful having everything on a slope since the native soil is pure clay.

Hey Ben, I was at the SABG on July 14th and this is how the Livistona chinensis looks. Still showing damage from the freezing rain (and the cold) we had back in February. I was at the River Walk this past weekend and those still looked pretty good! I noticed that thee were three Queens remaining as well. Sadly two of them are zombie palms as the growing points were killed despite still having some green fronds. One Queen right next to the buildings survived. I am really happy with how my Robusta’s are looking this summer! They have really grown well and have such deep glossy green fronds. I’m going to enjoy them while they are still small. At some point, years from now, hopefully they’ll be as large as these two near the Pearl:

@Larry Martin welcome to Palmtalk! Yellow tips on older palm fronds is fairly common, usually caused by a mild Magnesium deficiency. Magnesium is mobile in plant tissue. When the palm can't get enough from the soil (or fertilizer) then it'll "eat" the oldest fronds to power new growth. Some "palm" type fertilizer similar to PalmGain should help. Most include 2-4% Magnesium as part of the mix. If the deficiency is severe then some extra granular Magnesium Sulfate will help, or Epsom Salts. On my palms with consistent yellow tips (usually after winter) I sprinkle ~2 handfuls of magnesium sulfate in around a 10 foot diameter around the base. This helps to prevent yellowing, or makes it slow down. Keep in mind that once a section is yellow, it'll never turn back green. Plants don't "heal."

I planted a mule from a 15g in June 2019 and then transplanted it in February 2021. It didn't seem to care. I have moved several Butia with no issues, except for one that accidentally got no water in a hot June drought. That one died. I haven't tried moving any Syagrus, but I haven't heard of them being particularly root sensitive. They grow like weeds here (and seed like weeds too) so I'd guess they are ok to move.

First question is how close to your foundation is it? I don't normally see Cycads creating a problems for foundations unlike some trees. A photo or two showing size of your Cycas revoluta will be helpful. Rather than chopping it down at ground level you can also dig it up and relocate it. Cutting it down to ground level will work on the main caudex but if there are some small subterranean pups they might survive and emerge later. I just posted a pup photo that I intentionally removed from the main caudex of my Encephalartos nubimontanus that finally flushed a leaf after transplanting about 3 years ago. I see you are in the "North Bay" but wasn't sure which bay you reference.

Procatavola Key Lime Star (C. Lime Sherbet x Brassavola nodosa). This blooms so frequently and the best color is in the summer; can really see how it got its name Key lime.

If I remove a Sago palm, including the heart, to ground level, will the plant re-grow? I don’t want to put in more effort than I need to. Just purchased the house and it is to close to the foundation.

Nice. When their growth point is underground or close to the ground w/ a little protection, young palms can surprise you

I stand corrected. They were both planted in September 2021. Here is what they looked like 5 years ago.

I got these two Copernicia alba from North Texas Cold Hardy Palms. Planted them in Pearland, Texas Here is the one in front September 19 2021. Here it is July 2026 with 8 feet of trunk: Here is the second one. Started as the same size but planted in half day shade. Only about 2 feet of trunk.

Anyone have any luck producing/finding seeds?

They are a plant that grows in alkaline swamps. I suspect the amending of soil, lowered the pH, sending the plant into shock. I bet they would love your soil, unamended. Seeding in place can eliminate all of the above. Acidic conditions can cause the coloring

That’s a good sign then it will live, they are a reasonable paced growing palm. Will send a few more your way!

Yes, lots of sun, and lots of water. Here are two alba of the same age, planted same size(3 gallon) about 6 years ago. One in sun(8 feet trunk/ 2.4 meters) one in half day shade (2 feet of trunk/ .6 meter). Growing in clay in Pearland, Texas

Tropical Storm Lala = Not named at this moment , but should be shortly.. End of the week / weekend threat to Hawaii = increasing, Regardless if it attains Cat 1 / 1+ hurricane status when nearing the islands, or not. Stay tuned... Related articles: https://www.nytimes.com/2026/08/12/weather/hawaii-braces-for-a-possible-hurricane-named-lala.html https://weather.com/2026/08/12/storms/hurricane/hawaii-tropical-storm-lala-forecast

Yep, but in the greenhouse...won't be planting that one out till it's much, much bigger.

I could imagine the moss in the shade down there, a great big green blanket. It must stay moist your soil in the cool climate. You got the moisture for growing palms, and I have the heat for growing palms. But lack the moisture, so hopefully mulching will give that edge on growing palms. You won’t know the garden once you start on the understory, having a canopy is great. I usually mulch every year as the garden does eat it up. Has the lanonia survived winter?

A humid 94 to 103F / Dew Points in the lower to mid 60s under partly cloudy skies around town at 12:55PM on your Hump Day.. Question for the rest of the afternoon / tonight and into tomorrow: Will the East ..and central.. portions of the valley finally see a good storm?? We shall see.. Despite all the talk on the news in recent days, while the start of the week has technically been active, as you can see, majority of storms that have occurred have left a good chunk of the valley quite thirsty.. Rainfall data since Saturday ( Rainlog.org data ) .. Winners, so far at least = far west end of town / isolated spots near Gold Canyon on this side of the valley. Rest of today / through the morning hours of tomorrow may be our best opportunity for rain until ...a least... the start of / middle of next week, below the mountains / northwest of the borderlands at least. While the watch itself is hoisted mainly for the mountains north and northeast of the valley, if it ends up quite stormy in the valley later on this afternoon / tonight, < Fingers crossed > isolated to scattered flash flooding could be something to watch out for in the usual spots ( Indian Bend Wash, creeks that drain South Mountain, etc. ) Regardless, temps you see today hang around thru ..at least.. Friday or Saturday, before rising again into the yuck range again Sunday - Tuesday ..Per current forecast thinking. Luckily, a return of 109 -112F heat appears to be brief.. While we probably have a few more 110 -110+ days to go before we can send them packing for the rest of the year, further beyond mid - August we get, = likelyhood of 110 /110+ heat starts a notable trend down.. ....Will happen even faster if September starts off / trends as wet as many of the longer range model thinking continues to suggest at this time. For now? ..Lets see if all of us around town who haven't seen much rain, so far, can end the dry / mostly dry streak with a good dumping. For those interested, Dan will have a run of the mill, " what's going on out there atm " Wednesday YT livestream discussion in about 45 minutes..

It’s the final touches on the garden, the garden is self mulching after a few years. It’s just the new garden beds that really need it. I rake up the yard and with all the gum leaves around I put them on the garden, unfortunately or more fortunately the garden is so big and it requires a lot of mulching. It’s a win win situation mulching, and if you want that garden to grow a bit faster and healthier mulch is the go! Richard

Hello and welcome to the forum. Howea like regular watering and can survive indoor environments pretty good with low light. It is good that you are not over watering but be sure it gets enough . The drainage of the pot is kinda critical , especially for house plants . They need to have the water pass through and moisten the soil without stagnating at the bottom of the pot. The other factor is dust and air circulation with adequate humidity in the air. When I had house plants I would always give them a holiday outside , sometimes for a couple of days. A covered patio or shady spot with a light breeze works wonders , Kentia’s love cool nighttime temps of low 60’s. Use a shower setting on a garden hose and gently hose the palm down . If there is dust , wipe it off with a soft rag . If there are any mealy bugs or pests use a mild mixture of soapy water on the rag or in a sprayer. Bugs hate soapy water , palms don’t mind at all. The new growth looks great so I don’t see it being in too bad of trouble. By the length of the petioles it looks like it could use just a bit more light . Good luck with it , growing palms indoors can be tricky but you have one of the most adaptable species so it should be able to be worked out. Harry

Bactris major going pinnate, a new spear is pushing and it's growing extremely fast.

Thank you Eric for those lists. That is pretty much my experience in 9b Northeast FL. My low was 23 degrees last winter. Based on my experience I will add these palms to your " Good hardy palms" Brahea dulcis Brahea nitida Calamus caryotoides ( low 20s in CA and anxious to try in FL) Caryota gigas (under canopy, my hardiest caryota) Chamaedorea radicalis Chrysalidocarpus decipiens (summer is the problem with this one) Chuniophoenix nana Phoenix pusilla Syagrus campylospatha Syagrus (Lytocaryum) hoehnei Trachycarpus fortunei Trachycarpus latisectus Trachycarpus wagnerianus To add to the second category "more cold sensitive palms for protected locations" Allagoptera (Polyandrococcos) caudescens Chamaedorea elegans Chamaedorea cataractarum Chamaedorea klotzschiana Ravanea glauca (R. glauca has shown no damage under canopy in winters with 25 degrees low temp, where R. rivularis has taken a big hit) Pseudophoenix sargentii (my neighbor had one under oak canopy for 10+ years, it died last winter. It was trunking, overall height of 10 feet) My little totally exposed 12 inch tall plant recovered)

I hear you. I wasn’t happy about pulling them since they had just started to take off. I planted them a year or so prior. This picture was right after the freeze. The one on the left was a goner and never really got established. The middle one was nice and fat. It was the only one I was pretty sure would recover. The one on the right was also a “pretty sure”. But after 2 months, there was almost no growth and I started to have doubts. So I just started over rather than wait for the whole summer to see what happens and then try to figure out what to do with the bed. It was a pain in the ass and took a few days to dig out the roots but I don’t regret it at all. Also, my wife wanted a mango and this spot works great for it. The ground plants were coonties (Zamia Integrifolia) and flax lilies (Dianella Tasmanica) that I separated from other beds and were sitting in pots waiting for their time.