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Wow, so I gather that’s a common occurrence, then. It’s true that just before the leaf opens, part of the spear separates to form another one; the only thing that surprised me was the size that second spear is reaching. Given your experience and the number of specimens you have, I’d love to hear your opinion on my Alexandrae in that pot—does it look healthy to you? What problems might arise down the line if I don’t repot it?

After ...barely... avoiding a direct hit, yet causing plenty of problems across the big Island as it passed, Lala heads out into the middle of nowhere in the Pacific as the next two areas of possible development off Mexico appear on the board.. ....Two of what could be several more to come in the next few weeks.. As Ben mentions, Hawaii will need to keep an eye on how any upcoming system(s) develop / track since the threat for additional strikes /close calls is headed up. Today's 12Z run of the GFS ( Central Pacific regional section ) brings two possible systems toward the big island again between Aug. 23rd and Sept. 2nd, with a third lurking not too far to the northeast as it approaches around the 2nd of next month. *** Obviously, that is just one model run's thoughts.. Does not mean this scenario is what will occur.. ...Is simply something to watch closely, for now.

Yes, I think the roots aren't in the best shape because the plant is restricted by the pot—it's outgrowing it. Plus, I was away for 15 days and it was only being watered by two drippers; the roots probably didn't get thoroughly soaked during that time, which certainly wouldn't have helped. Even so, it’s reassuring to know that this is common with these palms. Thanks for your input.

@Alicehunter2000 Yours looked pretty nice in the photo. Wish it was still around. @Eric in Orlando All things considered, it's doing pretty well. Hoping we all catch a break and have a more USDA-2023-Zone-Appropriate winter. I think @DoomsDave has a surplus of Chambeyronia he may be willing to share with those of us who are flamethrower-less.

I’m not a botanist, just a humble horticulturist, but if this version of purple Bangalow was named, I reckon Archontophoenix cunninghamiana var dalrymplensis would be a good one for the purple picabeen. Naming things is purely academic though. The real fun is in the growing.

Jonathan, it was your comments from 14 years ago on Palmtalk that made me go to Peases Lookout for Bangalows because the two times before that I visited Eungella I went the other way near the sky window and Broken River and I found mainly alexandrae. I didn’t know there was anything up Dalrymple road. All the palms at Peases Lookout appear to be this purple Bangalow. I was really stumped when I saw the ones at Peases Lookout and ventured further up Dalrymple Rd to find stunning rainforest and a place loaded with purple Bangalows. The next day we drove the entire length and started walking an overgrown track to Mt Dalrymple but only went 300-400m because the track was so overgrown and the sign said you need a topographic map, a gps, and good first aid because you’re on your own up there. We weren’t prepared, but I’d love to one day do that entire walk. After Peases Lookout as you go higher the alexandrae are very hard to find if not no longer there. What was interesting is that the Calamus stop as well up the Dalrymple road. So if you are growing the ones from Peases Lookout you have the purple version. Once my eyes had been opened to the purple Bangalow I went down to Broken river and found a few of these purple ones there and found some seedlings which matched the ones at Peases Lookout and further up but that forest was dominated by alexandrae ( a beautiful version too). I found seedlings that matched the purple seedlings at Broken River ( green underneath and no ramenta). I even found a juvenile Bangalow that was the traditional full green with small ramenta. So maybe there are 3 types of Archontophoenix growing up there. It pays to look at the details. So Jonathan, it was thanks to you that I found these. Your ones are the purple form. Any pictures? What do the leaf undersides look like.

Planting now = ..at least.. 3 months for it to start putting down roots before it slows to a crawl / takes a nap -growth - wise- thru the coldest portion of winter where you're at.. Only thing that might make me wait until spring, if i lived in a climate like yours? ..if i were starting with a plant smaller than a 1 gal. Would look through this 👇 thread, and other Y. rostrata related threads started by / incl. thoughts from @teddytn https://www.palmtalk.org/forum/topic/72464-best-way-to-plant-yucca-rostrata-in-tennessee/ Think @N8ALLRIGHT is growing one in K.C. as well. Soil wise? Only thing they don't like is heavy / mucky clay that stays soggy. Chunkier / Better it drains = perfect.

I have over fifty mature or maturing Archontophonix of various variety and they ALL have two spears at a time before one opens.

New update on my palms in San Antonio zone 9a. 4 years into my hobby, I've experienced multiple casualties due to severe freezes but also bugs , the ox beetle that was responsible for killing one out of two of my Trachycarpus fortunei this year . BOTH have been attacked. My wellness check on my palms are increased by the recent event"s" that I had with the ox beetle. Terrible insect !! Other than that my only survivor is still growing and shows no signs of damage "yet"( pic1) . I've planted 3 Sabals this year. 2 Palmettos (pic2,3) and 1 Defuniak (last picture) Growing all at a normal speed . I don't zone push anymore so all I have are the bread and butter palms of San Antonio. I uploaded some pictures of my Phoenix dactylifera, Chamaedorea radicalis, Chamaerops humilis, Sabal minor, Washingtonia filifera ( 3 of them) , Washingtonia robusta (hybrid) and a couple of Butia Odoratas. All growing very well , especially the ones that I have in a ground for at least a year. Butias grow quite fast for me but the real winners are my Robusta and Filiferas. For height and width comparison I used my flip flops and a broom since nobody is here to take a picture for me.

Sabal should be fine, but they are SLOW in our dry climate. It will take a very long time to get anything substantial to look at.

Here is the tallest/oldest Chambeyronia macrocarpa at Leu Gardens. It was planted in 2004, its under high tree canopy about 20ft tall. Leaflets totally burned but petioles still alive. The first leaf to open post freeze was 90% burned. Now 2nd leaf is opening, its been slow to recover. And it is flowering.

Hi Chris, thanks for giving us an update on some of the Queen palms that were planted in recent years along the Riverwalk. As I mentioned before , those palms were planted on borrowed time and have absolutely no chance to survive here for decades , as a matter of fact since 2021 the survival rate of Queens are anywhere between 1 and 3 years. To give you my 0.2 cents and I'm speaking about personal experience, I say just keep walking next time you see them at the BB store. It is not worth it !!! Waste of money and all the work that comes with it to remove it. Slow recovery from freezes and look like crap for most time of the year after the fronds were burned from the past freeze. Stick with Sabals , Pindos, Washies or some other really cold hardy palms . IF you don't live in the RGV don't bother with Queens.

There are multiple palms in each clump. Not Sabal minor as the leaves are very costapalmate. Beyond that it will be difficult to identify without some seeds.

I am not familiar with what is available there. I use an EB Stone product for Palms and it has an odor but works well for “ greening up” . I would only recommend it for outdoor use . It isn’t strong and outside I don’t notice it but indoors it would be noticeable. Harry

Standard way here is to trench then wait a few months then undercut and complete the move. Shifting a small palm would be much easier I would think. As you have a few maybe try one with a moderate root ball and see what happens?!

All the seeds have recently been collected so they are fresh, I think your chances of germination are good. Its a lot of money for seeds though, but he's the only game in town.

Aloha Dave, I have moved a couple Rophies over the years. I root pruned them over the course of 8 weeks and wound up with a root ball I could move with my 36" box dolly. They never really skipped a beat, both have been seeding for a few years now.

@palmenthusiast100 You may consider coming to the next Central Florida Palm Society meeting in Orlando. At the last meeting there were several Kentias available for very reasonable prices. Here is the post for the next meeting. https://www.palmtalk.org/forum/topic/93849-central-florida-palm-cycad-society-fall-2026-meeting/

Why would you wait? I think Yucca rostrata is hardy to zone 7a or something like that...and better to get the roots into the ground where they're insulated. Roots are the most sensitive part of a plant to cold, so the insulation will help it in the event of super-cold event. You still have some time for root-establishment and top-growth as well. I think the more important thing is to make sure in a wet, humid climate that it would be prudent to plant it in a somewhat raised position, in the sandiest substrate you have available, for maximum oxygenation of the roots and excellent drainage. Avoid planting in a "sump," in a block of heavy surrounding soil where water would accumulate. Otherwise it's a very, very hardy plant. It's even planted in the UK, so obviously it's a fairly adaptable garden subject!

I see; I didn't know that about palm trees—that they could put out more than one spear at a time. That’s interesting. I’ll be keeping an eye on how these spears unfurl. The palm looks happy in that pot; unfortunately, I won't be able to repot it or plant it in the ground because my patio is very small, and it might become a nuisance to the neighbors later on. Right now, I’m using a liquid fertilizer I bought on Amazon called POFLO. I’m not sure if you could recommend a good fertilizer available here in Europe. Thanks, Harry.

Hoping you and your family are doing well following the impacts from Hurricane Lala. Also hoping your garden didn't suffer too much damage. Your garden is truly outstanding and hopefully very resilient!

Mine died year before last during Snowmageddon (5 inches if snow). I had it for over 10 years here in the Coastal Florida Panhandle. Cold 9a. Feel bad for all down state experiencing an event that I get almost yearly. You all may never experience that again in your lifetime....hopefully.

I have had this happen occasionally before on a number of different palms. More often than not, it works its way out of it. But generally it seems to be a condition that is root related, possibly sometimes not taking up enough water. At least that’s been my experience. Had a triangle palm many years ago that was in the ground and was rotting out at the base, hence the reason the the leaves weren’t opening. So I always look at the base and roots first with this condition. I actually have a Pritchardia doing the same thing right now, which has had me a bit concerned. But I noticed over the weekend that a couple of the leaves began to unfurl and it was beginning to throw a flower spathe. This was actually a fairly large transplant from two or three years ago and still hasn’t come up to speed yet, so again, I think it gets back to the root issue.

Just wondering given its august if I can plant or should I just wait until next spring?

This is fairly common with some species of palms . I have had them have 3 spears at a time . My mature Alexandrae typically has two before the oldest one opens. It should open soon by the look of it. A very healthy looking palm , soon it’s going to need a bigger pot. The slight spotting or yellow patches is just nutrients that could be added . A good , organic palm specific fertilizer would help that , but only on subsequent growth. Harry