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Depends where you are. Moist soil might not be bad if you have consistent 100 degree days. No pics but sounds distressed. I use moon juice when I transplant trees to encourage root growing and help reduce shock.

I’ve got some Veitchia arecina, the oldest being about 12 years old and is way overhead. However, it’s never flowered. Then I have another one that is about eight years old and has decided to flower like crazy. It’s pretty cool because the flowers are right at eye level.

Yup, as others have pointed out, these are about as adaptable as they come. Here’s one I plant many years ago; still trunkless, but with fronds nearly head- high.

Iron deficiency is characterized by yellowing of new growth. Overwatering causes a low oxygen soil and iron deficiency. My expectation with foliar feeding is that the non waxy leaves are the ones that will absorb it, not waxy leaves like alfredii. I might try to limit the sunlight if it gets more than 4 hrs direct sun and increase watering interval a little and see if it greens up in a few months. Overwatering in pots leads to more limpness in the leaves. Foliar sprays have limited absorption into the leaf but they have worked OK for me on non palms. The highest penetrating fertilizer into the leaf is N2 dissolved in rain as its a small, nonpolar molecule that readily passes protective lipid membranes. Obviously I dont know all the history of your palm or even the soil it is in. If there is a drain hole in the bottom of the pot it should get somewhat dry before the next watering. Not sure I could do any better in Germany, its way out of habitat conditions there. Remember that adding different micronutrients separately can lead to a deficiency if they are at ratios that change the competition for uptake. For example calcium, and Mg are chemically similar in the same family so they can compete and typically palms prefer 3:1 calcium:magnesium. If it were 1:1 calcium:magnesium, calcium uptake would be negatively impacted and if it were 10:1 Ca:Mg, Mg uptake would be limited. This is why I don't add individual micros, just formulations of them for palms. Google AI sums factors in Fe deficiency up: Iron (Fe) deficiency in palms is rarely caused by an actual lack of iron in the soil. Instead, it stems from cultural or environmental factors that inhibit root respiration and restrict active nutrient uptake by the root system. [1, 2] Primary Causes Poor Soil Aeration: Compacted or heavy soils reduce oxygen availability, stunting root metabolism and nutrient absorption. [1, 2, 3] Deep Planting: Palms planted too deeply place the root ball below the oxygen-rich soil layer, preventing proper root respiration. [1, 2] Root Rot Diseases: Fungal pathogens destroy active root surface area, drastically lowering the plant's ability to intercept and absorb iron. [1, 2] Overwatering / Waterlogging: Excess water displaces soil oxygen and suffocates root systems. [1, 2, 3] Substrate Degradation: In potted or container-grown palms, decomposing or breaking down growing media strangles the root zone. [1, 2] Nutrient Imbalances: Excessive uptake of heavy metals or competing ions—such as manganese, zinc, copper, ammonium, or phosphate—can induce iron deficiency symptoms. [1, 2]

Me too! Still on the hunt…… Harry

Dioon edule I got from @PalmBossTampa

Yes , one is never enough ….two is too many because next you know you will be living in a jungle! There are many Chamaedorea species that are small but still bring a bit of tropical to your space . Most are cool tolerant and can survive for many years in pots . They do like shade though , for the most part . Some will handle sun but only a few varieties. That particular species is best in shade. A common species that are available . Harry It all started with one particular palm . This photo was a couple of years ago , there are more now . The madness continues all the way around our house🙄! There are somewhere around 3000 different Species of palms in the world , just not enough space. Have fun with your palm when you find it.

All things considered I was lucky, things are coming back though perhaps a bit slower due to our drought and water restrictions. Last couple weeks we had more rain(10") than the previous 8 months. Perhaps my most exposed palm to both the eastern and northern winds was my copernicia fallaensis. As shown above it was thrashed pretty good out in the open near the street and ~25' tall. Still some hurricane damaged leaves may take another year to clear. The divided leaflets bent a lot in the wind which causes wax losses to the leaf and the banded discoloring where the leaflets first divide. I had seen this half circle arc discoloration in habitat pics and thought it was nutrient deficiency but I have now seen it on several of my copernicias after Milton. There is a lot of new growth on my large fallaensis, but I still see the undersides of the remaining damaged leaves with leaflets dangling and discolored, the birds get to see the new leaf color for now. Its doing fine but will take longer to return to its former glory. Here it is with 15'+ of clean trunk.

Thank you to everyone that purchased these, they are now sold out.

Thank you to everyone that purchased these, they are now sold out.

The bunya nut tree, a tree that’s been around for a long time. Once a staple food for indigenous tribes. With huge gatherings of tribes meeting up at certain time of season for a big feast of roasted nuts. Knowing exactly where each tree was and what time it was in seed. Slow growing as you would expect for such a large tree that will live for a long time, but give them ideal conditions and you will have a nice tree in 40 years or so, my one is basically a seedling at around 26 years old. So plant them as soon as you get that block of land. Well worth growing in any garden with a bit of space, well away from any structures, they get big, a tree for future generations to enjoy!

Be careful if you’re making up your own trace element mix. If using a specific brand trace element use it at or under the manufacturer’s recommendations, a little goes a long way. A lot of palms from different places around the globe have very different soils. So just foliar feeding everything may not work out well. Chose wisely, myself I would just foliar feed with a seaweed extract or something else that is organic. Spraying a heap of trace elements around can be a bit dangerous for some palms, it would be best to spray on cool day or a rainy day to avoid such leaf burn issues. The biggest issue is incorrect diagnosis and locking up your soil causing more damage than good. Choose carefully for each specific varietie. I don’t use trace elements I prefer a good healthy soil mix that helps prevent such deficiencies, I do get deficiencies in my palms but iam not too worried about such an issue, next time I repot it’s a new healthy soil mix that will help with any deficiency at hand. A regular organic fertiliser is my favourite for fertiliser applied through foliar feeding techniques, a Venturi on the end of a hose with a container full of high strength organic fertiliser, the Venturi does the dilution for me. Every spring and summer watering is fine this way. No fertiliser in autumn or winter! This winter I only watered my whole nursery twice and let Mother Nature do the rest, winter is a tricky time to water and a no no for fertiliser. Every grower is different in there approach to fertilising, I prefer not to blast away with a heap of stuff and just go organic.

Another winter bloomer!

Almost a day later and out in full bloom.

Yes - they look good - thanks

A few more winter winners. If you try you win a few now and then. Pushing the boundaries on new palm varieties in the cool winter in a subtropical climate. All for the love of palms! Adonidia merriillii variegated Areca mandacanii Geonoma longivaginata Ponapea hentyiiGeonoma pachystachys roscheria melanochaetes Geonoma mooreana

A lot of zone push winners this winter. And a few proven winners! Lanonia dasyantha Johannesteijsmannia perakensis dypsis rivularis Pinanga sarawakensis dypsis mirabilis dypsis heterophylla Arenga nana lanonia dasyantha

Calyptrocalyx flabellatum faired ok for winter, but clinostigma samoense was not to happy about the situation this winter. The Calyptrocalyx was pacsoa purchase grown in the tropics not to bad for its first winter in the subtropical climate.

A nice female chamaedorea Ernest augustii inflorescence and a baby foxtail ready to plant!

Why get one get three, and while you’re at it here’s four other chamaedoreas worth tracking down as well! Chamaedorea metallicachamaedorea Ernest augustii @Harry’s Palms favourite! Chamaedorea adscendens chamaedorea radicalis

Thank you , I’ll see if I can get one on the web

A couple of anthuriums and philodendron go in the ground at the end of winter, they have survived winter so far, time to plant them! Anthurium hookerii pink ruffles Philodendron davidsonii anthurium effusilobum

A nice gifted anthurium in the garden!

Dypsis lantzeana, showing off the new leaf!

Calyptrocalyx yummutumune! Faired well in winter for a tropical grown palm and planted late summer, no acclimatisation for this one, straight in the ground from the pacsoa showroom! Dont be fooled by this Calyptrocalyx it’s cool tolerant!