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I've got a couple of Red Dacca that are DEFINITELY ready to be seperated and potted. I've also got a bunch of Alocasia Portora pups i need to seperate and pot. It's just been too hot to do anything and i haven't had any energy the past week.

Oh man i missed these. These are what i was waiting for.

Yeah that's the reason why I want one. I like the arching branches too and the fact that they attract tons of birds. C. obtusifolia has noticeably redder new growth than C. peltata. They do have the silver undersides too.

It's a very interesting genus of trees that definitely attracts people when they see it, esp. when you catch sight of the powdery, bright white undersides of the leaves on some sps, like peltata ( Can't remember if obtusifolia possesses the same trait or not ).. Maroon to bright reddish orange new growth is neat too.. If i could find a U.S. source for seed ..that i could trust would be fresh, either sp would be fun to try here.. I may not have enough canopy to keep them from burning during our summers ( ..and / or experiencing any frost -related damage during our uncommon, colder winters ) but, my neighbor w/ the fruit forest(s) and another neighbor have better spots to try one in their yards. Might have to ask them about bringing back cleaned seed they might be able to find while they're visiting relatives in Panama next month.

This week has been a real trial for my little Ceroxylon amazonicum! Today at 3 PM the temperature... in the shade... was 106 °Fahrenheit (41.11 °Celsius). It's putting out its second leaf since it arrived at my place from Ecuador (via Florida). I'm keeping it in shade and in a deep saucer of water. Hopefully it'll put out a pinnate leaf before year's end?

The birds and the bees, both are required with chamaedorea!

103 -109F and pretty stuffy out there w/ Dew points in the lower 50s across town at 2:25PM.. Lots of clouds and occasional spit passing thru various areas so far today as well. Hot n' muggy mid to upper 80s once the sun sets, with the possibility of a shower ..or weak storm?? passing through overnight.. Pretty interesting set up across the Southwest and Mexico on the afternoon T.C. Satellite.. Upper level low lurking somewhere off northern Baja /near San Diego to our west, Subtropical high lurking across areas to our southeast = AZ ..and most of the southwest.. under some deg. of southerly flow.. Lots of storm activity beginning to build across the entire length of the S. M. Oc. from the Sonora / AZ border, down to Puerto Vallarta, with an easterly wave / inverted trough -ish feature headed west northwest toward areas of E. Mex. near and south of Tampico.. All of this creates a very intriguing forecast as we head through the weekend and into the start of Monsoon Season.. Per current thinking, weak trough / upper level low off Baja / San Diego hangs around until at least Monday, which helps maintain southerly flow into AZ from the Gulf of CA / decent southeasterly flow from Sonora. While the Subtrop. high to our east and south may shift around a little between now and Monday, it should continue to stay in a general position that helps keep some deg. of moisture moving west / northwestward across Mexico.. While rain chances may not be all that great for the valley, not out of the question someone in some part of town sees ..something, esp. if any smaller disturbances rotating up the gulf /up our way from Sonora tap deeper moisture / can bring it north into AZ. One such feature to watch for this evening / overnight into the AM hours tomorrow will be the cluster of storms brewing over N. Eastern Sonora, and activity the east side of central and northern Baja. Gravity wave activity generated by storm complexes over Sonora is another thing to watch today ( Can induce gulf surges that import deeper moisture into AZ ) If moisture from the Easterly wave further south manages to make it west across Mexico, it too could influence our weather by the start of next week.. Tucson, Phoenix, ..The Borderlands, ..or up on the Rim ..Overall, one thing is for certain, besides the heat and some hot over nights here and in Tucson, ...45 - 60deg. Dew Point readings will rule the forecast until at least next Thursday or Friday ...and possibly beyond. As mentioned, we'll see about any wet stuff, here at least. Rim Country / Mountains, Tucson and areas south and east of there? = you might get lucky.. Looking further out? Some good signs for the end of June / start of July in this weeks' 3-4 week forecast ...Fingers crossed.. Adding to this, perhaps a non - zero chance of tropically influenced activity on the horizon??.. Per today's thoughts from the ECMWF.. Fingers crossed..

I've seen them in sidewalks in the Yucatan Peninsula. I have never seen them damage the concrete. I'm going to order 3 trees so I hope I get one of the opposite sex.

Has been super mild here as well, lowest minimum so far is 5 degrees. Looking like cooling off from Sunday onwards, or at least back down to around average for this time of year.

My uresana is a couple feet wider in crown than my bismarckia, and just about the same width as the sabal causiarum but the Causiarum has thicker heavier petioles and leaves and a thicker trunk. Mature bismarckia petioles are thicker yet and the leaves can be 9-10' wide. I am impressed by my Uresana, glad I got one, though I expect it would be happier out west in a more arid setting. Bismarckia native habitat is wet summers low 80's for highs and cool dry winters in high drainage lateritic soil, in winter there is rarely a freeze. Love those uresanas, they are even more impressive in a grove like that, I'm sure. Pictures cant really get you to the place where you appreciate size in person. All my larger palms seem to shrink in a picture.

When i look at observations on iNat, i see plenty of examples of these starting off in... ..or emerging from / above lots of bright shade so, ...imo, think as long as the overall light is bright during the winter where you want to plant it, you should be ok.. Could always plant two.. One in the desired spot, and another where it would get more winter sun and see how both do. Genus is Dioecious ..Is what is suggested by most info. at least.. So, if you want eventual seed to pass around, you'd need one of each sex. My biggest wonder is how the roots on these might beave in a tight spot ..if the spot in the sidewalk is limited. Especially once big ( ..and they can get quite large )

Brahea armataBrahea calcarea ‘blue’Brahea dulcisBrahea ‘Super Silver’One of many Sabal uresana

Good job there , Richard. Did you grow that from seed? Harry

Our water bill is pretty high here , but we are municipal ( city owned ) . It’s just part of growing palms in an arid climate . It’s just my wife and I so not bad . We learned how to take military showers from over 12 years on our sail boat and traveling in our motor home. Our boat didn’t have a water heater so we would fill a 3 gallon solar bag full of water and place it on our deck while we were anchored at the islands . As soon as the sun warmed the water we should hang it from the boom and stand under it to shower . The 3 gallons was enough for both of us. Of course we were young and it was an adventure. Our palms are responsible for most of our water bill. Harry

Hello palm community, I am looking for Jubaea hybrids. Especially: Jubaea x Butia butia x jubaea x syagrus. Also anything else with Jubaea in it. The larger the plant the better. I can pickup in california or ship. I have tried to reach out to patrick shafer but no response. If anyone has a recent email please send it to me.

After failing to sprout Cecropia peltata I decided I'm just going to get saplings of this genus of trees. They will come from southwestern Chiapas, Cecropia obtusifolia is the common one down there. I want to plant one of these trees in a sidewalk but this sidewalk doesn't really get too much sunlight during winter and gets a lot during summer and spring. Is this space good for the tree or should I think of another spot?

New frond on A. vestiaria a few days ago. It needs more sun i think to get better color.

It can be done, but you will want to start with a large container or be prepared to transplant to a larger container before the roots become bound. Here are a couple that I started from seed.

Flood that area. It needs it bad. The cannas would probably appreciate it too haha

Hello, are there any maya palms left? Gaussia maya? Thanks.

Any chances?

Have you tried Niu Leka (Fiji Dwarf)? It's slow to get going, but in a tropical climate it does get going once it's in full sun. And Red Spicata stays pretty small but also has small fruit comparatively. Are you planning on monetizing the coconuts produced? If you're thinking about selling them for coconut water, make sure you understand the taste profiles, there are vast differences. When I lived in the Florida Keys, the guys on our house-renovation crew were mostly Hondurans, and they felt the Malay Gold were the "primo" coconuts for water. My own taste was very different and I found the "spicy" quality off-putting. Likewise I just purchased a coconut from a health-food store, a supposed "premium" Thai variety, Nam Hom, and I absolutely hated the taste of it. The water has a very "floral" taste which to me negates the positive qualities of coconut water. But obviously I see things very differently! I personally prefer Green Malayan water, also the Panama and Jamaican talls are good with a bit of sweetness, and there is also a very prolific Green-Malay type that tastes like it's carbonated when you open the nut and drink it, it's bizarre but very refreshing! My experiences are largely based on the trees I grew in the Florida Keys, and soil/nutrient levels may influence taste as well. I don't know how Fiji Dwarf tastes, but the point is, know your audience because not only individuals but whole cultures may have taste biases that influence how profitable you can be in the coconut-water business in a given area.

Thank you for your observation. I can find a pure Jubaea fairly easy within 50 miles, but finding exotic hybrids are notoriously hard to find. I am currently looking for a 5 or 15 gallon Jubaea x butia odorata and a Jubaea x Syagrus.

I have not watered either palm other than the initial couple of months. We have what is called Gumbo Clay down here, it expands and contracts greatly depending on how much rain we get. The Bismarckia started falling over last fall due to the soil shrinking. Twice I have added more soil to the base of the trunk and had to support it with the stakes. The wind here is very strong and those large fronds act as a sail. I had similar issues with Washingtonia but not with Sabals. The Sabals drill down into the ground. The pictures of the mature Sabal uresana I shared do not convey the size of these palms at all. I had seen photos of these for years, but when I saw them in person for the first time I was blown away at how massive they are. Bigger than any Bismarckia I saw recently in Florida I would say.

Roots of established palms extend far from the trunk, at least 10-15'. However fertilization will only happen when it rains or the drippers wet the soil. Drippers are not designed for high drainage soil because they do no make large wet zones. WHen its rains a lot that doesnt matter so much in Florida, but if it doesnt rain like in our drought, the wet zone will be too small to fully fertilize the palm. 3' away is where I start fertilizing my palms, closer is a waste of fertilizer when most of the root nutrient uptake area is away from the trunk. There are many more roots 5' away than at the trunk. T9otal uptake would have to due with the soil volume the roots occupy. Look at it like a circle, the bigger the radius the bigger the area and then with depth the bigger volume of fertilized soil. Some of my larger palms have roots 25 feet away from the trunk. I actually fertilize my 25'+ copernicia fallaensis mostly at 10' -15' away from the trunk. Drippers are king in low drainage clay soils like I had in arizona, sprinklers are about useless. But drippers do lose out a lot with high drainage soils to broadcast pop up sprinklers or micro sprinklers(replace the drippers with micro sprinklers). Even the sellers of drip irrigation will often tell you not to use drippers in high drainage if you look at their irrigation courses.