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They are a bit prehistoric looking, I could see a dinosaur eating them as snack. You squeezed those into your garden well. They do seem to like the drier air. Not sure how they would go on the coast with the salt air. I have one at the bottom of my property that’s is moist and not so dry environment, and the ones up the top in the dry sandstone not live it much better than the one at the bottom of the property. Richard

Hmm , not sure what I have then . Most of the fronds are full circle , accept when they first open , of course. Here are better(?) pics . I sure would like to know what it is . If it is some sort of hybrid , I may never know then. A couple years ago I thought I had the answer but after some of the posts on this thread it may not be that simple. I went out there and took some pics , but it has been very hot here , like 92 in the shade so didn’t spend much time trying to get super good photos. Harry The fronds end up circular , to the left is a fronds that opened up a few days ago. In the center is the new fronds, to the left is one that opened earlier and to the right , one that has been open for a while. Showing the entire palm Underside of fronds with sun the orangish center.

Thanks, Tom It’s a nice palm. You make a lot of good points about clay; I agree, not a one size fits all approach. I describe it as “fill dirt” here, which is a brownish clay type that is typically interspersed with river rock. Maybe it’s better draining that I realize - I’m guilty of making some assumptions, here. I do small amendments, when planting, typically. For what it’s worth, I’ve also had good luck with Copernicia species in straight pumice.

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It’s going to a tight fit in there when that palm matures!

@edbrown_III Glad it made it. My Licuala grandis looks about the same, but I put a concrete splash block over its planting bed to shield it from the wind. Otherwise, it was probably going to be DOA.

Here's mine... Coccothrinax Sp.... Lol It has somewhat silvery under sides. This is full sun grown.

Been awhile since I’ve posted photos of the Dictyocaryum in the garden. Over the years it’s evident that they are a bit out of their element in my garden, but are still beautiful nonetheless. Out of the original four, two faded away, the remaining two are powering on, although one took a hit from the months long drought last year. It seems to be rebounding as of late.The difference is apparent in the photos. Finicky at this lower elevation tropical climate. Always keeps me guessing. Tim

this palm grows pretty well in the arizona desert. Just have to keep the late day sun off it. THe ones I saw out there were more silver of leaf, more greenish grey here in FL. I thought they were more attractive in arizona.

Moving a flush after February freezes -----

Does anyone in south Florida have true Coccothrinax borhidiana for sale? Thanks

My climate is transitional BSh to BSk. Köppen classification. I think I have to give a try with this sp outdoors. I grow a potted one for many years in expanded clay mixed with pumice and lava and thrives.

I had a Chrysalidocarpus sp. pop up like that a couple months back and it eventually withered away once it ran out of nutrients from the seed I imagine

Hi there, I’m interested, pls text. 916-798-9225

We all like them... except @Than

I spy a few fruit in the last photo! Harry

No change. Palms continue to decline. Even new green spears on 2nd palm are advancing. AI is totally useless giving completely inverted responses and requiring constant reminders of lost facts. Spears are slowly dying, and drying. Cross sections show clear clean tissue. Two seperate palms, two different soil and water situations. Both trimmed around same time with same blade. 2 months ago. Spears do NOT pull. They are extremely firm. No overhead water 6 months before issue began. Cleary 3666f does not seem to have worked. Soil drenched 1 tbsp in 2 gallon in evening and chase with more water on pre-wetted soil on July 24th. Have 1 gal of Gunner 14.3 MEC. Don't dare apply as soil drench (or at all) because its off label. Plus research says palms won't pull it up into vascular tissue anyway. Copper crown drench feels risky; its 108F every day lately. Don't want to cause more damage to healthy palms. I'm at a loss and feel totally doomed to lose other palms since I may have inadvertently used the same saw blade on sawzall for other palms 3 weeks ago. Its an awful feeling with over $10K invested in palms. Below is the sickest tree and some fronds to review.

I agree with @happypalms . The best time to plant a palm was 20 years ago, but the second best time is today. Looking forward to watching it grow up @idontknowhatnametuse !

This is a species I often collect seeds from locally and grow. They are fine with my dark soil, but I've managed to grow them in pure expanded clay hydroballs and in a concrete pile. They seem to prefer a drier climate. If anyone in the desert or semi-arid areas is looking for something worth a shot, this would be it in my opinion. They have seen mid-20s here with damage, but in a drier climate, it stands to reason they could handle a little bit lower with some leaf damage.

This really sums it up. Although I am sure that we were lower than 27F over here. My yard is open and I would estimate 23-24F was the ultimate low. But the wind, man that was crazy. In the past, mid 20s were usually associated with little to no wind. Which is obviously not good. But we had 20+mph wind with temps in the 20s. I did not have any C. Macrocarpas but I have 2 Oliviformis. The seedling got covered by a blanket of mulch and is fine. The 7’ lost all exposed leaves and is pushing out some growth but it’s now about 4’ and doesn’t look anything like it did.

Coccothrinax are a splitters dream. So many variants and hybrids to nitpick. Most in the US are, or are hybrids of, barbadensis, miraguama, and to a lesser extent borhidiana, and crinita. When you get out to California, from general sellers especially, it’s going to be the common ones or common hybrids. Palmpedia can’t identify them correctly, and I’ve got a bunch, from reputable Cuban Palm sellers, and 1/2 of those turned out to be misidentified hybrids. So I approach them like a good lumper, hopelessly, like I approach rarer crotons now…. I lump them into broad categories for the most part. If you like it and it looks great, I’m not sure it matters. That being said, yours looks very much like my, Miraguama ssp roseocarpa, which looks nothing like Miraguama ssp miraguama. A couple of years ago…. Now 9+ feet to the tips…. Note the leaf….

Eureka Farms in Miami has Howea forsteriana. They ship everywhere.

Tracy, I have a two palms that were labeled as C. Argentata and two that were labeled as L. Morrisii - whatever they are, they all look the same, and have all grown very well. These did not come from Jungle Music. I wonder if these are the same as yours? It’s hard to see in those light, though they are quite silver underneath.

Here are my three planted out, the best looking one was the least exposed with the best windbreak and canopy, the last was most wind exposed and took the most damage, but all have put forth a valiant effort to regrow this summer. Hopefully a mild winter and good rains keep them going. I managed to save everything in this garden area with my attempts but had losses elsewhere.

Thanks @Banana Belt! All your tips and experiences are really helpful. My property has very dry sandy soil. Madrones thrive along the perimeter. As far as care I fertilize end of march, mid/late May, then a smaller dose July 1 typically. I have been giving it a deep water about once a week in spring/early summer if we get no rain. I taper down the watering in July and then quit watering sometime in early mid August to hopefully harden it off. We get a good bit colder than you up here so I aim to have growth really slow down before the weather get especially cold and wet. I read a paper by Ian Barclays (the desert nw) that a member posted on here recommending the avoidance said water and fertilizer heading into the fall and it seems to be a pretty good strategy so far. The site also starts to get less direct sun in winter since some tall trees to the south block some sun when it’s at a low angle. ***At first I was worried it could be too shady in the winter but now I wonder if it works in my favor by keeping it from growing too quickly during winter warm spells. I’d be really curious if any forum members have a take on this? I know some people that plant apricots to the north of tall trees hoping to delay spring flowering till frosts are less of a threat. Could be something there.