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Hi! I visited Orlando this weekend and oh my lord! I found lots of palms it was cool the place I stayed at had lots of palms and natives like Saw palmetto and Sabal Palmetto. There was also some pretty Naturalized Queens that weren’t planted here’s a few of the place I took today! Ima post more including Leu Gardens which is crazy! It has Palms that shouldn’t be in that 10a/9b place in Winter Park. I think the heavy tree cover helps some of those things survive. They also might take other measures.

That blueish - silver Mediterranean fan is gorgeous 😱🤩. I was able to get 3 seeds from central Tx last week hopefully they grow for me in Florida.

What size are they? I am not close to you but I found some large ones lately that smelled very much like citrus but they are very large in size and very round in shape

@Rojell welcome to PalmTalk! I'll start by saying I don't grow palms inside, because I'm in Zone 9b/9a borderline in Florida. From the description you may be having problems with the soil mix being too dense or organic. There's a whole section of Palmtalk's forum dedicated to pot growing, and you might find better answers there: https://www.palmtalk.org/forum/forum/45-palms-in-pots/ There's a lot of discussions on palm soil mixes, but generally a "loose and chunky mix" of something like topsoil + perlite/turface MVP/lava rock with at least 50% inorganics seems to work for a lot of people. For example, this is a big thread on it: Another possibility is incorrect planting depth. If you get the base too deep (i.e. soil too high) then the RIZ (Root Initiation Zone) has a higher chance of rot. The rule of thumb is if the palm is too high (soil too low) it might "girdle" or grow slower, but if it's too low (soil too high) it might rot. One of the PT Directors wrote this great article on it: http://www.marriedtoplants.com/palms/palm-tree-growing-tips-mounding/

Hi Ben, happy belated birthday !! Looks like you and your family enjoyed the time exploring some more palms in the SA area.

fruits of Causiarum are small, 7-8 mm, Domingensis fruits are 12-15mm. Further Zona describles in his sabal monograph that the causiarum has 3 orders of branching and domingensis has 4. I was sold a palm that was labelled domingensis, and I found out it was causiarum after the inflorescences arrived and it fruited. There was a huge mix up in seed 15-20 years ago at RPS and other normally reliable seed sources. The orders of branching is described as the branching off the main inflorescence spike. I consider all those dominagensis that are unusually cold hardy are more likely misidentified causiarum. I also expect that near a building is good for at least +5 degrees if it is a heated building. Temps near heated buildings or even large concrete structures are warmer than the reported ambient temps especially when it gets really cold. Out west under canopy I have measured over 5F warmer advantage under canopy in a radiational(low wind) event. I had some phoenix roebelinii out in the open and under canopy in arizona when it hit 21F. Those under 6 closely spaced healthy queen palms were not touched, no leaf damage. The ones in the open had no green matter left, even leafbases fried. Consider that canopy best works for heat retention when there is no wind and when the cold events are shorter. As the wind kicks up(advective cold is more common in the east) that advantage shrinks drastically. To fight winds you need windbreak and a fire pit in the wind break area would help a lot.

Here's my Licuala Fordiana (I think this one is Fordiana, who needs tags, right?) and Chuniophoenix Nana getting engulfed in a shitshow bed from my last Floribunda order a year or 2 ago. I did protect last winter with a pot flipped over them and a string of lights balled up inside the pot. As they get bigger I'll start pushing them farther with low temps and see how it goes. My in-ground Lanonia collection all croaked at 20 last winter.

I'm in coastal cold Z9 Florida Panhandle. My experience with the 2 species has been mixed. My huge causiarum gets leaf burn almost yearly. My big but much smaller domingensus sometimes don't burn from these same cold events.

Scott Zonas monograph is the seminal paper on differentiating Caribbean sabals: https://scholarship.claremont.edu/aliso/vol12/iss4/2/ First pic looks like palmetto on the right contrasted with sabal in question on the left. The fruits and inflorescences are more informative than leaves. Drooping leaflet tips could be climate influenced. They are costpalmate it appears and some are pencil pointed at the bud so they are not happy. Those sabals have seen some drought and look over trimmed so its hard to see what they would look like if happy. Not sure blackburniuana is even a recognized species but I had (2) supposedly blackburniana when I was in arizona. I saw the mother "bl;ackburniana" tree too and it was a medium thick trunked sabal, around 2 ft+ thick with leaf bases on, certainly not palmetto as the petioles were 3" thick across near the trunk.

I would happily pay those prices, though the only way they would make it to Western Australia is through a concierge service, the only reliable one I’ve found is Bob and Bev up in North Queensland. The plants would end up doing a round trip of Australia, triple the price and that’s also assuming they arrive healthy enough.. It drives me crazy our bio security laws.

It's a shame we're so far away, otherwise I would have bought the chamaedoreas, obviously you would have given me a little discount, jokes aside, people don't know what's behind a plant, finding good seeds and how much it costs everything else

Good morning I am new here and wanted to ask for a little guidance. I live in Southern Ontario, I think we are 6b. I have tried to have a bottle palm, in a 5 gallon pot, for our by my pool and then bring it inside for the fall winter seasons. It does well for the summer but when I bring it inside I think I am killing it with kindness. I have read most things I can find as to how to take care for it indoors, it sort of goes dormant for the winter I guess? I make sure it drains well only small amount of water every 3 to 4 weeks and in a room with a fair amount of sun through the day. When I take it outside once the temp stays warm enough it starts to lean a fair amount and the base starts letting go at the soil and I notice it is rotting on the inside and letting go of the roots. This has happened to me with 2 different bottle palms. Just wondering if someone here could give me any kind of indoor winter care tips. Like I said I think I killed it with to much water? Thanks in advance for any tips. Rojell

What bugged me again was this sap sucking life taking creature they call an insect on my freshly potted ceroxylon parvifrons, the cheek of him!

Nice one hope they all germinate! This ones for you @tim_brissy_13 we need seeds!

A few listings I have for some of my palms. The price reflects what it actually cost for rare and exotic palms now. It’s not cheap growing exotic palms nowadays with customs fees, germination rates, shipping, phytosanitary certificates, soil pots, water, electricity for pumps. Plus many other hidden fees. So what should a rare palm be priced at when you consider what it takes, after the real mathematician has had at go at some numbers. Is it how rare the seeds are, how hard to obtain and so on. If you import the seeds it’s a whole new number again that gets added to the cost of everything. So just one plant germinates from a hundred seeds that cost ex amount of dollars to buy and import. You’re not going to take a lose on that business venture. If you germinate a hundred out of a hundred then the cost of a palm can be a lot cheaper from the grower. Seed availability is another factor, hard to obtain seeds of endangered species changes the mathematical equation a lot. This puts a higher price on such palms. So it’s not the growers fault for the prices it’s the cost of the whole thing of growing rare and exotic palms. Some palms will take years in Australia before there is a local source of rare palms, and then they may not set seeds. And even then a not to open public supply, with seeds being so rare they would most certainly go to others in the palm community. That’s the cost of rare palms nowadays. It’s supply and demand like any business it cost to produce. The only real solution is to have a garden full of exotic palms to collect seeds. Mind you though they all look beautiful in my garden, so I know the look that can be created with rare and exotic palms. I would happily pay this amount for such beautiful palms to have in my garden if I wanted a tropical garden that’s for sure worth every penny!

Odd one this. My oreophilus flowered for the first time 2 years ago and turned out to be male. It produced 7 large flower spathes this year, followed by a much smaller one pretty much after the others has finished. This last spathe had pollen as I used it to pollinate a late flowering T.nanus, then a few weeks later it looked as if the male flowers were just a little slow to drop and stayed green, it wasn’t long before I realised this was the start of seed development. Three months later the seeds are still hanging on in there and haven’t aborted. So fingers crossed they will mature. I’ll add that all other male flowers in the garden had long been removed prior to the so the opening, so they should be self pollinated. I understand this is unusual but that it can happens with a couple of the species in the genus namely T.takil and T.nanus. For anyone interested the trunk is over 3 meters now and has grown rapidly in the last 4-5 years. It was planted as a small trunkless palm in 2017. Location Kent, UK.

Its a wonderful palm, I have never come across seeds of this palm anywhere, except for rps they may be able to get them, and have in the past had them.

Here’s a real beautiful little dypsis understory palm. Dypsis forcifolia lucky enough to go in as a tubestock in a wet area in the garden.

I say old chap looking a bit spiffy for Tassie, be happy to wack that one in the ground @happypalms

No dont repot if the weather is getting colder. It will be fine root bound in the container, and once you repot in the warmer months it will start growing well the. One great way to grow palms is by having them rootbound. Then you reopt them. Dont fertilise in winter either. In cold temperatures when you repot them they get a wet soggy mess of sour soil due to low temperatures and no oxygen in the soil, as soil temperatures drop the palm stops metabolising and stops growing in the cold. With no root activity you get that messy soil and especially in a what was it zone 6b, you are one great grower of palms and a gardening master in my eyes to grow anything tropical looking in that cold climate. Well done I give you two green thumbs 👍 👍 award! Here’s a picture of two in my garden, they are 30 years old!

Syagrus cearensis?

That is pretty intense , I’m so glad you are ok . This is the first report of damage from the hurricane from our Big Island people . I see a lot of contributions from folks that live there and hopefully they are ok. My friend lives on Kauai and they had a bit better go of it , mostly rain and wind like tropical storm strength. I’m not sure how Southern California will do this winter but forecasts seem to agree that we are in for a lot of rain. I was here in 1997/1998 El Niño , the first year in our new home . It was pretty gnarly with some squalls dumping 1” per hour or more. Reminded me of 1969 and other wet years living in Ventura County . I am not a scientist but I do know , in my lifetime , things have changed a bit . We just have to hold on and hope for the best. Harry

Ceratozamia totonacorum

Maybe oleracea?