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Looks similar to 2010 prices in FL to me. I could get a 3 gallon bucket full of dypsis lutecens seedlings for $10 or a 3 gallon livistona chinensis(5) multi for $10, and oversized 1 gallon Archontophoenix Alexandre 2' tall for $3. If you like pygmy dates that is a great price. A 4-5 years after 2010, the smaller nurseries where I purchased 90% of my palms kind of vanished as the post banking collapse economy left only big box stores. But I was lucky to have purchased several dozen palms before that happened. Worked out great for them, they raised prices in response to lack of competition and inflation.

In arizona I can tell you drip irrigation with a timer is the difference between life and death for some young palms unless you dote on them. The dead center is now a very good media for fungus to grow and expand. Whether the center is dead from lack of water or from too much, dead material is not protected from pathogens by plant defense. Never water these palms from the overhead, just water the ground around them and this is particularly important when you have dead new growth. Green material is generally protected by the plant chemical defenses(terpenes and enzymes) unless its catching water or moisture in a hole, like the bud. The leaves going straw color is dead and that risks the dead growth will retain water to assist fungal growth and the bud is not protected from fungal attack under those conditions. I'd keep pulling on the dead newest growth and get the hydrogen peroxide 3% on the bud area every couple days. I also use daconil fungicide as a follow up 2-3 hrs after the peroxide. If that soil there tends to always be damp, it may also be enabling the fungal attack. If the soil is dry at 6-8" depth just water it consistently but for a longer period, 90 mins. If you don't have a timer consider it, as you will not be able to forget watering. It might be that site has unusual drainage, you should know with a drainage test nearby(3' away).

Looks like a peyote tree.

Thats great, I hadn't been by those yet to look. I'm amazed at how many coconuts are growing back after lows of around 24-25. I had 23F (below 32F for 10 hours) at my house in Altamonte and my Green Malayan (with about 3-4ft trunk) was totally defoliated, it was not protected or wrapped. It had no spear pull but once it warmed it started putting out new growth. Its on its 5th leaf now. So far every one has been shrunk/deformed but each new leaf is bigger and better. The new spear looks even bigger now. Theres another a few blocks down from me and it gets no care/irrigation. Totally defoliated but its also growing back. Theres a house a few blocks from Leu Gardens with 2 trunked specimens and they also have good growth coming out.

@SubTropicRay Did you manage to get any precipitation out of the storm brewing in the Gulf?

That $5 Kmart roebelenii story is classic. My first "real" palm was a clearance queen palm from Home Depot that looked like it was on its last legs. Tossed it in the ground, gave it water, and a few years later it's pushing fronds like a champ. The bargain bin is where it's at for beginners.

Hi! This all new hybrid is for sale now at Rarepalmseeds - first time ever. trachycarpus oreophilus x ukhrulensis What do you think about this hybrid? Share your thoughts regarding growth, looks, vigor and so on. https://www.rarepalmseeds.com/trachycarpus-ukhrulensis-x-t-oreophilus

The rich will get richer.... The drier air aloft will hold over the region mid/late week which will act to minimize development of afternoon showers/storms, and increase max temperatures back to several degrees above climatic norms. East/southeast boundary layer flow will occur the remainder of the week...but will flip over the weekend becoming onshore with highest pops shifting to the interior.

I like too see someone who recognises a bargain when they see it. Great value top palm!

The clinostigma samoensis aren’t looking to good for this time of winter, with a couple casualties and one that will most likely show some hope of living only to eventually succumb to winter and die! And I knew that the brassiophoenix schumanii were doomed from failure before with them. You just gotta come back for more suffering and try again with some varieties! 🤣

There are some very unique microclimate pockets up there for palms, as you know! And as a lot of growers know it’s the cold and wet conditions that do the damage. An old SAPS booklet writes even back then in 1987 they were onto it way before us. And another winter strange one is out of the Areca Rabaul I have one is packing it in for winter and out, while the other one is growing stronger. So it’s it’s disaster for tropical palms in the cold . possible it’s soil temperature to add to the factor when wet and cold conditions all meet with all three conditions

I got this new leaf from a Chambeyronia macrocarpa and it is asymmetrical. The leaflets are only on one side. I thought the other side is just tucked in and will emerge later but it doesn't appear that way. I will wait a few more days but I have not seen this before on this or another Chambeyronia macrocarpa.

A highly ornamental tree from the tropics with a blue flower, It’s doing well in the subtropical climate, slow growing though, it’s taking temperatures down to 5 degrees celcius. As a nice young seedling tree, as usual trees of such ornamental value take many years to grow!

Yeah I am just amazed at how well these wounds healed over. My ficus and oaks cut wounds do not heal like this, some even rot at the cut wound and turn into a cavity over time.

Beautiful work gyuseppe!

Around 2 to 3 months, bottom heating 30 degrees celcius, coco coir perlite medium, just slightly damp. They are easy to germinate. And good old mr Wilson @palmtreesforpleasure gets around with his seeds a lots, a true gentleman he is! 🤣

A couple nice trays of trachycarpus princeps and sitijong. Showing there cool tolerance as seedlings!

A bit of winter colour in the garden today.A couple of Chambeyronia hookeri and a nice Japanese variegated rhapis kannonchikushima

Iguanura sanderianumAreca rabaul Dypsis orange crushAreca mandacanii Licuala polyschitsia All are doing well considering the low temperatures around 5 degrees celcius.

A couple nice ones enjoying the cool temperatures. Dypsis saintlucei Crysophilla warscewizianus

A neat little shrub the crispa, having bright red fruits that hang in clusters. A tough plant that offers that bright red colour in the middle of winter.

Nice to see your attempts are still going on strong and thriving, im about to restart my own attempts soon. going to get some coconuts from the store and grow them in coco coir outside, last year my attempts failed because store coconuts have no husk to protect them. so my idea is since coco coir is made of husk it would make the most natural medium to sprout them in. i had so much success with coconuts from the bella company many of them sprouted.

If you want a palm that’s easy to grow and fit into any reasonable small space, the feather palm, wedding palm or the lytocarum weddlianum is the one. Easy to grow and germinate, single plants will set viable seeds. Quite cool and dry tolerant. Perfect understory or bright light palm. An absolute beauty of a great palm that’s gives a lot of effect for little work!

Just having a little wander around after a bit of a holiday. And things are just fine, and dandy for the garden in mid winter! Licuala bracteata licuala triphylla var stenophylla lanonia centralis Areca warhbosabal mauritiformis

Hi there, I would love to help you out here but I unfortunately can't. The reason I place this comment is that I have exactly the same problem with my Dictyosperma album var. aureum. It constantly grows new spathes but I always have to step in and 'help it out' as you do. Maybe the problem is not Beccario -related, probably more in a general way... However, wishing you luck - Lars