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I sent a private message. Thanks for offering these!

Hey Tracy, does Pritchardia arecina or East Maui Loulu ring any bells? Not easy to key out from photos in Hodel’s book, but by process of elimination, it looks similar. P. hillebrandii crown looked to be more dense and less open than what you posted. Just an observation. Tim

Generally speaking, are the blue joeys (Johannesteijsmannia magnifica) known to be more stout in form as seedlings/immature plants than the green joeys (Johannesteijsmannia altifrons ) ? I’ve only been growing this one seedling magnifica (from 1st seedling leaf stage) and noticed it doesn’t develop those long-strap like immature leaves like the altifrons I have raised. I grow indoors. Because the magnifica is much smaller than my altifrons, I have grown it along with my higher light orchids. The altifrons are well over 3’ so I can’t get them under the orchid lights. I noticed from photos that the mature magnificas look like the altifrons in form, possibly broader; the blue underside of the magnificas being the obvious difference. Although, perhaps any of these form differences in photos can be due to stretching in lower light vs more stout in stressful high light levels. I just want to be aware if I’m possibly light-stressing my magnifica. Pictured below, magnifica on left is younger than the altifrons on right.

Heliconia update. July in Houston has all of my H. latispatha in flower. We had three consecutive nights in late January of -4/-5 C (24/23 f) and these are all reliably 6 months freeze-to-flower. H. latispatha 'dwarf peach' (my name just to differentiate it). Smallest cultivar. This one was protected but froze back to the base. It is the most cold sensitive of the four. H. latispatha 'Red-Yellow'. Large robust plant. Tightly clumping, not invasive. H. latispatha 'Red'. Large plant. Runs but not invasive. All of these are in a fair amount of shade and would probably flower more in sun. H. latispatha 'distans type'. This is an invasive weedy plant with a small underwhelming flower. Other Heliconia. H. x 'Mexican Gold', H. x 'Coral Surprise', and H. lingulata 'Yellow Fan' all getting large and will likely flower Oct-Nov. All reliable single season flowers and I would recommend them for the gulf south. H. acuminata 'Super Chieri'. Seems to favour making offsets over rapid growth of stems. Will probably flower this year. Flowers aborted last year before opening. H. x 'Siberia Lemon', H. x 'Rauliniana', and mislabeled large plant (maybe a stricta?). All large and vigourous. Not clear any of these can flower in a year though. H. champneiana 'Maya Gold'. Survived winter freeze but getting shaded out by others. The various H. champneiana cultivars all seem to be slower growing plants that need to be given their own space. I'm losing these to crowding not cold. H. champneiana 'Maya Blood', H. x 'Bleeding Heart', H. x 'German's Luck', H. rostrata 'Thai'. H. lingulata 'Red Tip Fan', and H. vaginalis might make it into the ground this year. Still trying to find some of the dwarf H. rostrata cultivars.

Its pouring now, I wouldnt drive in it as visibility is pretty low. I love rain, but my palms love it more. These "hard rain periods" are often short but we also got a few tenths(0.2?) this morning between 1 and 4. After being in this drought and seeing all the dry tipping on my palms, it seems things have shifted. Water restrictions last to oct1st. The rain falling on the roof is music to my ears!

I agree that its simply a matter of no drainage. I am feeling the anger a bit that no drainage test was done on a 2k project. If that was mine I'd need medication. BA are not difficult I have t6wo in part clay, one in foundation clay that doesnt drain but I dug punched a hole in the bottom of the clay to get it to drain. Its 22' tall and carries lots of leaves. Hurricane milton smashed my(currently) smallest one. It was grown in a sandy site and grew more slowly till the roots extended into nearby clay. `Everything but the spear was knocked down in 110mph max milton. I hate seeing these photos less with time, initially I stopped taking photos of my palms after milton, it was ugly In time the bent leaves, which had longitudinal fractures in the petioles, just lay lower the stems no longer having the strength to keep the leaf above horizontal. As you can see, all but 2 leaves were shoved over the fence and were green so I didnt cut them off. I am getting ready to trim off the dead ones, its just been hot/humid and I had been a little sick. This morning I took a pic of the leaves that were bent down across the fence that bounds my yard. I didnt know if the palm would make it or ever be the same. I do know more leaves is better for photosynthesis. The palm 22 months after being flattened grew a number of new leaves and is currently very happy. The crown is about half recovered, an adult carries ~18-20 leaves for me here. I Ive also seen some nice ones on palmtalk that were grown in So CAL. No question you can grow them there with drainage and 2-3 x a week deep irrigation. IF the soil drains fast less time is needed to go deep. IF the soil is moderately draining, it would be ideal as that means moisture not water retention. When we talk about bullet proof palms these alfredii are in that category. They really are an easy grow, I don't dote on them. I do mulch them every 2 years, and fertilize 2x a year by throwing some prills around. The do get a consistent irrigation drip(at least till this past april when they limited our irrigation to 1x a week. they are drought resistant we have been in a severe drought 10 months(?). Ken I'd encourage you to consider another BA and start the grow with digging out the hole as deep as it needs to be to get drainage of the hole in 24 hrs and add 1/3rd organics garden soil when you plant. The garden soil is just to ensure roots get a good start, it will be consumed by microbes in a few years as the roots are established. I would not water every day after the first 3-4 weeks in the ground go every other day for a longer period.

Hey Charlene, with your touch, doesn’t surprise me a bit! Glad they’re going for you. Should be a little hardier to the occasional cold spell, although I’m not sure much of anything could’ve lived through what you guys went through last winter. 😩

Seeds are ripe on my super silver med fan palm. Flowers were hand pollinated, and wrapped for isolation. Parents are the pics. Super silver offspring! 25 seeds picked fresh off the tree with fruit,(to contain freshness) shipped continental USA for $20 total. Takes full, blasting, Arizona all day sun, and freezes to at least 25F with zero damage. VERY hardy fan palm with exceptional silver color. aztropic Mesa, Arizona

I noticed something similar in size to a weevil on the inflorescence among all the bees this morning. Fortunately I caught a flash of green, so it was not a SAPW but is a June bug (Cotinus ?). On closer examination, I saw a few among the bees. Only one is visible in this photo.

Thank you! We have been concerned about the irrigation since the water seems to run off, away from the base. We are looking into a way to fix that, and keep the water from escaping. We will also look into getting some palm fertilizer.

Aloe marlothii actually has more spines than does Aloe ferox. Once they bloom they are very easy to distinguish. Aloe marlothii has an inflorescence which will branch out horizontally as opposed to the vertical inflorescence of Aloe ferox. Photos of my ferox and marlothii in flower are at the end of the thread.

Cleaned up this Roystonea regia a few days ago and the rings are looking good

Dioon mejiae seems to always flush later into summer for me. Perhaps it needs more heat than some other cycads I am growing?

Chrysalidocarpus saintlucei gets thicker in full sun and thinner trunk in shade here. Full sun specimen front and center in this photo.

Very inspiring. I live in north Escondido and am thrilled to see some of your beauties taking hold in our inland community.

yes Richard please pollinate, we need seeds here Yes Richard, I already knew your answer was positive, I have distributed many Phoenix rupicola seeds for free in Italy and also in Europe, they have germinated for everyone, here in Europe everyone complains because they can't find palm seeds good , the purchased ones are just a waste of time, 70% of the time they don't germinate anything, before it wasn't like this there were many seed sellers, now there is only 1 left

An update at the end of July, 2026.

This is just an outside observation , but the palms look to me like there is a nutritional deficiency. The trunks seem to be smaller as the height increases . Queens are quite sensitive to deficiencies . The area around the base of the tree with the roots showing , seems to be indicative of some cultural problem . The roots seem dry . Are they functional ? They are " water hogs " as well . A good quality Palm fertilizer is very important ,and a good consistent watering as well . Good luck .

One of the easiest plants to propagate, you certainly did your homework marcoting, job well done. Just place it in a jar of water, that’s how I propagate my ones super easy. Just change the water as much as possible and in a warm spot. Instant crotons.

I will certainly try my best, I gave plenty of plumosa young plants to go in the garden for the next generation of plumosa seeds.

yes Richard please pollinate, we need seeds here

Hi there, I had already the impression that there was something going with one of my seed grown Bismarckia's but couldn't make it out from the accessible side. So, I approached it from the backside - I had to work myself through a couple of weeds grown already men-high close to the fence but got finally rewarded... First pic,... Back in September 2020 after being planted out. Here it is now... ...and here approaching it from a different angle: Well, still not really clean but I think we have got some 'evidence'.... 🧐 Lars

The plumosa are flowering again, and I have finally worked out the boys and girls and where they are in the garden. No flowers opening up yet. But some daily observations will be the order for the day. I will try and hand pollinate them this year. I managed to get 4 seeds pollinated last season only to have the rats get them, right on harvest there clever little sods. In the 25 years they have been in the garden only twice I have had good seed set naturally where Mother Nature lined it all up. A nice landscaping palm that’s tolerant of a lot of hard conditions.

18 months post cold event

I have a croton (Stained Glass) that I did an air layer 3 weeks ago. I removed a section of the bark around the entire stem, applied some root hormone, put a ball of spagnum moss around the "wound", and wrapped the outside with aluminum foil tightly. All was going well until today. Today I found the top of the plant broken off and laying on the ground. It broke where I did the air layer - the weakest spot. My guess is if it's not wind, or a palm frond came down from above with impact, then it's some medium size animal (iguana, raccoon, possum) trying to climb it. Looking at the portion that was broken off, it was forming some roots there, do you think it can be saved? If so, is it better to save it by soaking in a jar of water for a while? Or better to pot it up now? Is it necessary or desirable to remove some of the leaves, or cut half of every leaf off? Below is the top of the mother Stained Glass croton.