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Planted this sabal Brazoria from Palm Legend Gary Hollar! I'm excited to see how it will grow. It's in a great microclimate

Interesting info on the "puddling".... Thanks for posting... Butch

My purpurea is stunted, 7 years in the ground in deep shade but it is in clay so it stays moist. Sunlight is the enemy of th epurple crownshaft here in florida. All the taller ones I have seen are blanched if planted in sun. Here it is to the right of a satakentia. Your climate seems to match southern california and some parts of austrailia perhaps. I would recommend you get growing advice from members that have experience growing in the mediterranean climate. I have grown int he desert where archies die rapidly due to desiccation and in Florida where the roots dry out fast in sandy soil but the air is more humid so not as bad as a desert or mediterranean. Use the search function or just PM @DoomsDave who has grown some beautiful archies. I have seen quite a few archies from SoCal(or NorCal) or Australia look better than mine for sure. Multis are far more water efficient, easier to keep happy than single archies in my yard. I have planted all my archies with other palms nearby so moisture control of the soil is easier. All the shade in the pic also slows water evaporation by sun heating the ground.

@ThunderMoon if you really dislike the brown leaflets you could snip them off with scissors. On a Phoenix that's usually a recipe for getting stabbed repeatedly with thorns and the pokey leaves. Usually it's better to leave the entire frond on there until it's completely dead and brown and crispy. Then cut it off at the boot. Doing a diamond cut isn't too complicated once you get the hang of it. I'm sure there's some YouTube videos on how to do it. As far as fertilizing, the general rule of thumb is to avoid fertilizing for 2-3 months after transplant. Many PTers suggest using fish emulsion or seaweed fertilizer first, followed later by granular fertilizers like PalmGain or Florikan. I've planted stuff from 1g up to 30g in my yard and never had a problem *lightly* fertilizing within days of planting. If you only have one or two palms, then the expense of PalmGain might be okay. I've generally used the Sunniland 6-1-8 and recently switched to their 8-0-10 Tree and Shrub. For a mature in-ground palm, the rule of thumb is 1.5lb of 8-2-12 for every 100sqft of canopy area. So for a 12' diameter Sylvestris, that's 6*6*3.14=113sqft. So roughly 1.5lb * 113/100 = 1.7lb of fertilizer 4x per year. If you use a lower concentration fertilizer (like Sunniland 6-1-8) you'd just add 30-40% extra, so you get the same total N and K. FL soils are generally high in P, so you can ignore the middle number. For transplant shock, I moved this Sylvestris from the backyard: To the front yard using a shovel and wheelbarrow with very few roots: After planting you can see I diamond cut the lower fronds off to balance the root loss: 2 months later it had "eaten" the lower set of fronds and pretty much stabilized: At that point I cut off the brown fronds and gave it a normal dose of fertilizer.

Ouch. I’ve referenced his posts many times over the years, he will definitely be missed. Condolences to his family .

Very sad, some big names have recently been lost.

Yes I remember you saying you hadn’t had any germinate for you. Pretty sure both lots where from the same seed batch we got.

Trunking form planted as a small seedling in 2020, survived the following cold spell, never shown any damage: 2022 High/Low (oF): 2022-12-08 4/-1(39.2/30.2) 2022-12-09 4/-1(39.2/30.2) 2022-12-10 4/-1(39.2/30.2) 2022-12-11 0/-3(32/26.6) 2022-12-12 1/0(33.8/32) 2022-12-13 2/-2(35.6/28.4) 2022-12-14 1/-2(33.8/28.4) 2022-12-15 1/-5(33.8/23) 2022-12-16 3/-3(37.4/26.6) 2022-12-17 6/-4(42.8/24.8) 2022-12-18 10/-1(50/30.2) Has seen a couple other small freezes, typical absolute winter minimum generally in the range of 0 to -3 (32 to 26.6)

All I know about this plant is that it apparently grows out near Bourke, so this plant is from the back of Bourke as they say! But I have no idea about it!

Planted in 2013 has survived the following cold events (both with snow), never shown any damage, temperatures from nearest weather station. 2018 High/Low (oF): 2018-02-26 2/-2(35.6/28.4) 2018-02-27 1/-3(33.8/26.6) 2018-02-28 -1/-5(30.2/23) 2018-03-01 1/-4(33.8/24.8) 2018-03-02 1/-1(33.8/30.2) 2022 High/Low (oF): 2022-12-08 4/-1(39.2/30.2) 2022-12-09 4/-1(39.2/30.2) 2022-12-10 4/-1(39.2/30.2) 2022-12-11 0/-3(32/26.6) 2022-12-12 1/0(33.8/32) 2022-12-13 2/-2(35.6/28.4) 2022-12-14 1/-2(33.8/28.4) 2022-12-15 1/-5(33.8/23) 2022-12-16 3/-3(37.4/26.6) 2022-12-17 6/-4(42.8/24.8) 2022-12-18 10/-1(50/30.2) Has seen several other small freezes, typical absolute winter minimum generally in the range of 0 to -3 (32 to 26.6)

TvT planted in 2013 has survived the following cold events (both with snow), damage described, temperatures from nearest weather station. 2018 - First and only ever spear pull, outer fronds continued to look healthy with minimal burn, suspected cause is snow melting into crown, any subsequent snowfall has since been shaken off and/or the fronds have been tied if snow was forecast. High/Low (oF), 2018-02-26 2/-2(35.6/28.4) 2018-02-27 1/-3(33.8/26.6) 2018-02-28 -1/-5(30.2/23) 2018-03-01 1/-4(33.8/24.8) 2018-03-02 1/-1(33.8/30.2) 2022 - About 20-30% leaf burn after this one, looked a bit ragged, but recovered well in the growing season. High/Low (oF): 2022-12-08 4/-1(39.2/30.2) 2022-12-09 4/-1(39.2/30.2) 2022-12-10 4/-1(39.2/30.2) 2022-12-11 0/-3(32/26.6) 2022-12-12 1/0(33.8/32) 2022-12-13 2/-2(35.6/28.4) 2022-12-14 1/-2(33.8/28.4) 2022-12-15 1/-5(33.8/23) 2022-12-16 3/-3(37.4/26.6) 2022-12-17 6/-4(42.8/24.8) 2022-12-18 10/-1(50/30.2) Has seen several other small freezes, typical absolute winter minimum generally in the range of 0 to -3 (32 to 26.6). Normally comes through unscathed but occasionally shows some brown tips.

Created this little island oasis in the middle of the bush on a tree stump. I just chuckled em in there nothing special just time was all that was needed, left untouched!

Bentnickia condapanna, one tough palm, it’s so dry at the moment and the condapanna is still looking good! It could look better with a lot more water, but iam impressed at how tough they are!

This weeks special garden treats are a few good unheard of rare ones! ixora speciesponapea (ptychosperma) hentyii Gnetum gnemonlicuala Romber cocothrinax spplumeria stenophylla Zamia nespophila Alpinia pumilla

Some of my coconut palms from the top

Argh man you got hit , I feel for you on that one. But I know how you feel iam getting the opposite complete dryness with the drought we are going into with no rain for two months, not any that’s worth getting anyway it’s cruel here now. Just too busy to water doing all the other watering in the garden and greenhouses. Plus having a job. Not enough time to water.

Licuala bracteata showing some promise of its potential!

So as far as the parts that have turned brown completely, the last photo as an example: Should I be using clippers to remove the dead leaflets? They feel like they're barely hanging on by more than a thread. Or the fronds where the last foot is completely brown and shriveling? Or is it better to wait until the entire frond is dead and cut that off all at once? For entire fronds, my current plan is to let the nursery do that so they can maintain the diamond cut look. Or is that something that really a novice can learn pretty easily? Thanks, Damien

It’s a statement alright and still in the understory of the gum trees, planted on the side of a steep hill in sandstone country. It’s one of my favourite palms, growing pretty well much perfectly!

I haven’t found them to be hugely different in growth rate to Howea forsteriana which is of course among the most common palms on the planet. I haven’t grown enough to know, but is their typical germination rate lower than H forsteriana? I feel like there must be something more to it. Aesthetic appeal of H forsteriana with drooping leaflets more attractive to your average non palm person? Looking back over photos, mine has been in the ground for 4.5 years now. It has grown from quite a small juvenile to a good sized plant in that time. These photos are a bit over 4 years apart.

Great mature specimen photo. I love how much of a presence it makes in your garden.

Any pictures of C. talliera ? This one I find the least amount of information about.. I would love to see some pictures at different stages of life please.

Your palm actually looks VERY GOOD for a palm that you understand was dug out of the ground recently, and then transplanted on to your property. I think the browning is minor, and it is consistent with mild transplant shock. I think you should keep your palm well watered, and you probably should not fertilize if for a while. But, it would be good to hear opinions of more expert palm growers, and preferably some with familiarity with your soil conditions. Edit: Listen to Merlyn more than me.

@ThunderMoon it's pretty common to see random frond and leaflet death after transplant. After all, they probably used a backhoe to dig it up, and they certainly had to tie up the fronds with a rope. And then wind damage on the truck will show up a week or so later. in general it looks pretty good. Don't cut anything off until it is dry and crispy brown. The palm will "eat" the oldest fronds for nutrients, so they'll turn yellow pretty soon. The watering seems reasonable. I would move the hose around randomly to make sure it soaks all the roots. Something like a half handful of Sunniland Palm 6-1-8 is probably safe. Too much can burn new roots, so in general "less is more." The next week is probably pretty toasty, dry, and sunny. I'd expect some more yellowing.

A little update on one of my 2 Medemia Arguns. First inflos! Only one of the 2 plants is blooming so still have my fingers crossed for a male and female.