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I was attracted to a different species in the genus for similar reasons. I planted this Gaussia princeps with the wall and white fence to its east, so it would receive reflected heat from them as well as the afternoon sun. Other palms have grown over the years so it receives more filtered light now. It has quite the bulbous trunk as you can see. It holds 2 to 3 leaves normally and has never flowered.

This is an "I don't recall" orchid blooming.

Yes , that Queen has been struggling for years . It’s hard to say why without knowing the area or history . The small crown of fronds and stressed look to the trunk are telling of a palm that ain’t too happy. Sometimes they are just “runts” and that happens . I had one cut down that just wouldn’t kick in like the others I have . They grow super fast here once they trunk and get nice canopy effect . Harry The tall one on the left of the Venezuelan Royal is about 17 years from a 10” pot. This is right after trimming prior to our windy season. The crown was reduced by about 50% or so.

A bit of mild sun burn . Typical with recently planted palms in full sun . It may take a while for it to settle in . Remember these like room for their roots and plenty of water. If it is still in a nursery pot , the black pot could be overheating the root ball. If it is in the ground , it will take time to settle in. I don’t fertilize my Archontophoenix here just copious amounts of water , especially in summer. It would depend on your soil there as to what to feed it , if anything. I had a yellowing King at my old house and I gave it SulPoMag (Sulpher , Potassium and Magnesium) . In a couple of months the new fronds were a darker green . A year later it looked fantastic. Once your palm gets going in the ground …..LOOKOUT! They grow fairly fast and that trunk will push it up towards the sky. That one is at that acceleration stage. Harry

Here’s my new baby! Harry That “bottle” shaped base got me! At this age , to me , resembles the Hyophorbe I saw in Hawaii years ago.

I have had no good experience with malayan dwarves. They get damaged very easily. My Orange Panama Tall has had no damage in drops to temperatures like 4⁰C. And only minor spotting in older fronds with -1⁰C.

Here is another update: since march is has grown 4 new frawnds not all are opened but has lost a decent amount also due to stress. I am going to strap a clear giant plant sic tarp over the coconut tree since there are 3 surrounding trees where I could attach a tarp to each corner of a tarp. For the winter, I am also going to line the perimeter with 50 gallon water barrels. My royal survived yet quit growing in may, my archontopheonix maxima and tuckeri are doing good, and my mango+star fruit survived

And I already know about barrariophenoix alfredei. I just really don’t like the look of them.

I also learned that Malayans aren’t as cold hardy, and I had no idea.

I’m a little bit concerned due to the fact that my king palm is slowly turning lime green and losing colour even though I’m fertilising it it’s out in the sun but I don’t think that’s the main issue this is what it looked before and this is after

This Cycas is now hardening the flush I posted a few weeks back. The leaflets don't start until about 5 feet up the rachis.

I was never able to keep a palm consistently happy unless I knew the watering depth. If the soil has some clay, watering depth is determined by time, not flowrate. Excess flowrate that isn't spread around the root zone can run off, evaporate, or channel in the soil. Faster flowrates tend to cause more channeling. Irrigation drippers can be used to great effect in dry areas. You get perhaps 10 degrees more heat there than in Alfredii's native habitat. To me it looks like classic desiccation in the hot season by underwatering. If you went away and watering was not automatic in your absence in the heat, there is the likely culprit. I would water for at least 1 1/2 hrs at low flowrates of 6 gph((3) 2 gallon drippers spaced around the root zone every 3rd day in the heat, less frequent when the high temps drop below 75. You can buy timers and drippers that can be attached to a hose. I have killed plenty of palms by just hand watering, automatic watering is needed and drippers tell you what the flowrate is so you can calculate the total water in gallons. Your palm does not have an established root system, they don't come that way. IF you want it to be happy, you will have to make sure its getting the right amount of water and wet a good root zone area for the first two years. When established they are a low maintenance palm aside consistent watering like most palms. Once roots are established it will carry a full crown like this. I've seen these grown in the arizona desert and all over socal so it can be done. I don't recommend getting the tallest one as its roots have been bound for a long time in a pot. 15 gallons would be fine. I started with a 3 gallon and the above pic is the end of the 3rd full growing season. Here is the 3 gallon 6 months after planting Today its 30 foot tall, and just as wide with a 34-36" thick trunk

I am closer to the coastal influence but it has been very warm here . I am about 30 miles from Valencia/ Santa Clarita area due west . I have a palm I want to plant in a sunny area but I think I may wait due to the heat , yesterday was 86f here and is going to be in the 90’s again next week. I have never had a drainage issue here except for one spot and that was cured with a Queen palm that sucked up the moisture in that corner. We hand water 3 times a week when it is like this and the ground isn’t soggy at all. Our palms love the water , even the Triangle palms. I think the OP’s palm is just settling in and probably will take time to start looking better. July and August are warm months in our area . Harry

These old threads are helpful . I just got a nice example from @DoomsDave and am planning on planting it in the ground . Dave has them planted in sun and a couple in shade , they are all doing well. His climate is very similar to mine but it is good to hear of other’s experience as well . Any others out there , post pics of yours , I think this somewhat tropical palm with SoCal tolerance is worth a good look! We are experiencing an extended period of heat/humidity so I may delay planting it right now . The place I have in mind is out in front of our side yard and gets afternoon sun (warm). As soon as it gets a bit lighter out I will post a photo of it. Harry

@kinzyjr Thank you for the suggestion. I was waiting to see if anyone else had suggestions but I guess Allagoptera arenaria is everyone's facorite. I'll check it out.

Here

Thats a huge palm!! Nice.. I think you might be surprised on how well it does.. Im in a dry climate but here's mine..

Hi! These huge double foxtails are absolutely high and gorgeous, approximately around 12 meters or higher, but the other one is shorter, I believe they are about 30 years old! The appearance First Foxtail is going to bloom its flowers Second Foxtail is currently riping its fruits

Thanks again for your replies. The two explanations combined may be the answer. The alternating sex and unpollinated flowers. 👍🏽

We are having the best summer ever here in Greece. The weather has spared all the horrendous heatwaves that have been battering W. Europe this summer; we have had zero heatwaves so far and we are already in the middle of July. I cannot remember anything like this in the near past.. Max temperature so far in my garden has been 94 F / 35 C and that only for a couple of days. Most days have been like 89 F. Minimum is a stable 66 F / 18-19 C. This is the first summer I have had zero issues with spidermites so far, in the entire garden!!! I am in heavens. If only every summer was like this.. All plants are growing happily. Even gardenias have finally bloomed! And it seems that a cold front (!!) is coming our way soon:

Thank you for your reply.

This is the tallest and probably the older queen palm I 've seen in person. It's in Lisbon, Portugal. It competes some of these tall washingtonias.

I can confirm this observation 100%. Such spp are called polygamous. One year they can produce inflorescences of exclusively one sex. Sex may alternate from year to year. In other years or specimens can be produced within same year inflorescences of both sexes, frequently in a strict sequence depending on season. In other years or other specimens hermaphrodite flowers are produced. Nature finds a way...

I think I’ve heard that if female flowers are unpollinated, they can develop into those 3 loved fruits. There won’t be any seed inside.

We have one anthurium Guatemalan hybrid that sits in a shallow cup of water all year long and it’s fine, even in the middle of winter outside just sitting in the garden. There are various self watering containers but they don’t mind hydroponic like growing, it just depends on the medium you use it has to have super good drainage.