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I guess it wasn’t so healthy as my 12 foot Fox Tail fell in the last storm. See pics.

For the fertilizer where should it be spread if not by the trunk? Is there a general area to get it in so it will work for the tree but not by the trunks themselves? I went with the crispy route and left everything that had any green on it at all, I went under every one I cut and made sure there was no green all the way back to the trunk itself. If there was green in any part of the frond I left it, except for one or two I cut by mistake. For what is left on there, the brown fronds with the green stalks, will they ever go green again or will I just need to repeat this trimming over the next few weeks as any remaining nutrients in them are used up? If you look at the photos, especially tree 2's update below, you can see the stalks on the fronds are green while everything else about them is brown. The internet tells me the green part is the petiole. I don't know all the lingo yet. Here is how they are looking now to compare with the original photos. Tree 1: Tree 2: Tree 3:

It just looks amazing, too—wonderful, Richard, with so much love, passion, and vast knowledge 🤗.simply perfectly designed - oops, I just borrowed a quote from Lisa—hope it still works 😁

Beautiful plant, my biggest one is from seed from Azores, slower then A. Alexandrei for now. Growing one next to another, same soil, same watering regime. I hope both will rapidly speed this summer

Hi Than, hope you're doing well. I really think it's a great idea to use raised beds like Richard does; I have nothing but good things to say about it. Well done, Than. That’s a good long-term move, and I think it’s beneficial if you dig everything up (yes, that can be exhausting) and mix the substrates in a way that’s suitable and balanced for each type of exotic plant. I wanted to mention something else about your indoor Howea foresteriana—surprisingly, it didn’t thrive at all indoors for me, even though I tried to pay attention to everything: location, light, substrate. Maybe sometimes the substrate isn’t rich enough in minerals, like when we’re lacking calcium, magnesium, or other elements. I would have emptied everything out again and mixed it with what’s recommended. I use a lot of used coffee capsules and mix them in frequently, sometimes also organic banana peels—just whatever is definitely good for the plant in question. Also, I never use the recommended amount of liquid fertilizer, even if it’s organic. I don’t want to “dope” anyone, so to speak. Good luck, my friend.

Oncidium Tsiku Marguerite HOF

Thank you!

Back from grow room. Community garden and on the balcony fortress 4. floor in the shadow...

I’m thinking you should plant Calamus radicalis along your front entrance. If he tries to go near it you will find him in the morning tangled up in it. A palm that fights back.

Hmmm... it just rained so I guess the Mg has already leached into the soil. Not much I can do now but I won't add salts again. Thank God I only gave 50gr and not 100gr as recommended. Tomorrow I will apply Fe-EDDHA and repeat in 20 days.

Syagrus is not very tolerant of salty soil, magnesium antagonizes potassium and in our soils and rain pattern and water quality potassium deficiency is much more likely. We ain't living in Florida with coral substrate and frequent rain during summer. Have you looked in the web for magnesium deficiency symptoms in Arecastrum? It is a very widespread and common sp in cultivation, therefore it is very probable, that you find very specialized information.

I thought it might be Mg deficiency. Why was it a mistake? Because too much N can make K-deficiency worse?

It makes sense now. With -4 in my garden i woud be left with only few palms alive, among them certainly not Chrysalidocarpus.

No, for the whole pot. Plus shipping

Epsom was a mistake. How did you come to this solution, recommended by someone?

Hoi Konstantinos, I always value your expert perspective, and I know that your long-standing friendship with Gyuseppe is built on exactly this kind of deep botanical passion. 😊 To give you some technical data: The plant survived short periods of -4°C to -5°C on the balcony this winter. Crucially, there were no ice days (Tmax stayed above 0°C), allowing the plant to recover daily. This confirms that the 'Balkon-Fortress' at 443m provides enough protection to prevent the core from freezing. You are right to be cautious—the Swiss Pre-Alps at 443m are a different world compared to the Mediterranean soil. However, my 'Balkon-Fortress' creates a very specific micro-climate. My Intertronic station recorded 18.1°C yesterday on the wall, while the air was much cooler. The best proof is the plant itself: a fresh green spear is now emerging from the center! It seems the 'Arbon-Sog' is more powerful than expected. I’m happy to keep you, Gyuseppe and all updated on this vertical experiment! Best regards, Mazat PS: Ich schätze Dich sehr und freue mich jedes Mal auf deine Inputs.

Sequestrene eddha you mean Fe-EDDHA? I will give it today. I also gave slow release fertilizer, Epsom salts and sulfur pellets this week!

It seems I might have to get up to the Gibraltar range and get a few seeds, only a short drive away from home!

One plant that I definitely thought and read that would not take the cool weather was the piper magnificum. Taking temperatures down to 2 degrees Celsius and sitting in the back part of the greenhouse without much warmth in winter. It came through last winter like it was a spring break. So much so I had to buy another plant, iam quite confident it would live in the ground given enough water in summer in my climate. So don’t believe all you read this plant is cool tolerant! Another zone push winner!

Ante, those had been given to me as seedlings by Dražen Travica. Very robust plants, but slow growers because of the lack of adequate water and the competition with older and more established palms and bananas. Alone the fact that they survive and grow bigger at any rate is a plus. The seem also quite easy regarding soil consistency. 9

Each new leaf on the dypsis basilonga just gets better and better, followed by y a nice young Dypsis utilis leaf and don’t forget the vonitra Dransfeildii for putting on a nice new leaf for a bit of colour!

Spring is entering gradually and new growth starts appearing on Bismarckia and Nannorrhops. Which one is more blue in your opinion?

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Tell him it’s a Sentour that he really wants!

Hoi Mazat, what was the min temperature this palm has been exposed to? Mine in the ground was exposed in the aerial part to 1C but looks much better than yours.