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The hookeri are flowering well this season. No seeds so far over the last 3 seasons from when they started to flower. Iam in no hurry for any seeds of them. One day they will set seeds and I will most likely give them away.

If you see em get em. They would grow there the Oraniopsis is cool tolerant and the lacospadix is just as cool tolerant. Oraniopsis is slow so most likely a snail in your climate! Richard

A nice Chambeyronia putting on a show at 6.30 on a foggy morning!

Had this one in the ground for 26 years. And it seems to have enjoyed growing in the garden. I do know with the dead leaves not to mulch them in the garden they get seperated for the big compost heap. Too many times when planting plants in that area you get the needle sharp spines in the hands. One glorious palm not that often seen in my area!

As seedlings look you can tell these ones are special. The delarbria were gifted seeds and the diospyros were imported seeds. They will all get planted in and around my garden. With the delarbria going into the understory.

A fantastic plant to have around in the greenhouse is the Milky Way. Propagation is by cuttings which they seem quite easy to strike. Thankfully this one has stayed true to form.

When I was little I lived in north Greece, very far away from the sea, in an enclosed plain with temperate climate so we had no palms. Every summer we would visit my grandparents in Crete and there CIDP & Washingtonias were such a sight for me! The epitome of exotic. I would stare at them thinking how beautiful they were... Now after spending few years in south Greece I don't even notice them. Funny how we get used to things so easily and always look for something unique.

Quite the opposite! I bought them a year ago in a terrible state, with only 1 leaf left, chlorotic... name it. I got a good discount and it was May so I thought I'd try. On the day I bought them I accidentally left them in a car under hot Athens sun for several hours; it was like 60 C in the car. I thought they would be goners. Yet they are both fine! One is in the ground and the other one still in a pot; both pushing new leaves. The one in the ground is faster for sure. I am waiting for some trees to make enough shade in order to move the second one in the ground too. Their trunk is about 1m long.

Bump. Full sun acclimated now. I'm just not feeling it. Pushing a new frond. I'm listing it for $50 on Palmstreet whenever I get around to it.

I have a tiny seedling in a pot with light soil. When I repot it I will use this kind of medium. If it ever goes in the ground I will give it a raised bed with similar medium. Perhaps my leptocheilos would be alive now had I done the same thing back when I moved it to the ground. Excellent advice as always from PT!

Chamaedorea genoformis and chamaedorea metallica tucked away in the understory!

I do believe it’s a troop of monkeys and a stand of palms! 🌱

When I went to water and cleared the mess, there's actually 3 pups in this one! I just potted a DC pup to 1g, another DC has a pup, and oddly enough it's the little Blue Java that kept snapping leaves that has a pup and not the ceiling scraper I put in the yard. I killed 2 Papua Yellow sprouts, probably killed a Nono pink TC, and Nono white and Aeae TC will be here tomorrow.

Okay bumping thread. There’s a nursery in Riverside that carries 15 gallon. I was looking for a palm that handles full shade with only dappled morning sun from dawn until noon. After that its full shade. Im removing the bougainvilleas and getting a macrocarpa, and im eyeing up the Areca Vestiaria Red since it prefers shade in inland climates. This spot is sheltered from santa ana winds and stays moist. Can’t do much about humidity besides misting the fronds.

Thank you very much!PalmatierMeg This is a Lagerstroemia speciosa naturally growing in limestone crevices. Even though it is not a palm, this extreme growing environment has greatly altered its original massive mature size. Its dwarfed growth habit has inspired me with a new idea for space-saving container cultivation.

A big palm in the understory, stretching towards the light. They are very tolerant of the shade, and from the pictures I have seen in this forum shade and sun grown are both totally different in looks. This one is around 27years old and it’s hit the teenage days about to burst into growth. Very tough palm that should be more planted about.

Thank you !Justin31703 Your experience has given me even more confidence. I received a soil recipe from an agricultural technician: 50% black volcanic rock grit + 50% peat moss. He also suggested top-dressing the substrate surface with limestone rocks, which I think is a brilliant approach. I’ve seen potted Copernicia falcata cared for by a plant collector in Xiamen, China. His planting medium was much lighter in texture, making the container easy to relocate. Ultimately, I believe strong, natural sunlight and excellent cross ventilation are the core key to successful cultivation. mmexport1772510129972.mp4

Argh cold a wet, the palm growers enemy!

During my trip to Jimbaran, Bali, Indonesia, I saw this palm tree right at the gate of Jimbaran Sixth Elementary School. It was planted in a container that is most likely sealed at the bottom. All nutrients are concentrated in its trunk, making the stem look exceptionally thick and bulky. This is probably not a natural growth state for the plant. Just like vegetation growing on bare rocks, it grows very slowly and stores all its nutrients inside the trunk to survive. I used to work as a maintenance gardener at Fengbaoyu Rainforest Botanical Garden, so I’m fairly confident I can try rehabilitating it and make it thrive. In human terms, our entire lifespan is only a tiny fragment of a plant’s timeline. Eventually, once it recovers well, I plan to donate it for free to someone who has a proper garden with suitable natural conditions for its long-term healthy growth.

@cgarlick welcome to Palmtalk! I had a triple and a single Foxtail before the freeze, but 22.5F likely killed all 4 of mine. One looks like it is trying to push a new frond, so I suppose it has a chance. Anything below 25F is likely to kill a Foxtail, even a mature one. Any palm that is visibly "weeping" near the crown probably has a severe crown infection. Any palm where the main trunk or upper crownshaft changed from round to irregularly sunken in probably has an internal trunk rot. When those two symptoms become visible the palm is already dead. So like in the first photo that left trunk is definitely dead.

Thanks, @Tracy. We had a record-cold, terrible winter this time, temperatures dropping to -22C (-8F), and we had freezing nights until the middle of April. Terrible. In the past I did nothing and it looked better, but the previous winters were warmer (although not much warmer). The boxes are completely enclosed. Here's a Pindo palm before closing it: I use rigid foam insulation panels + heat cables + a lot of mulch to help keep the roots warm. This year, however, I had a fire due to a short circuit or overheating (perhaps a cable burned itself where the different parts of the cable touched each other; or perhaps the heating cable overheated mulch started a fire). So I lost my European palm and damaged the Windmill palm I don't know the cause of the fire and I'll create a post later to discuss the possible causes of this and how to prevent this in the future. The boxes get fully closed with occasional opening of a "small window" at the back of the box for changing air. Inside the boxes are temperature monitors and I can see the temperature on the display inside the house. Besides the fire :), I'm very happy with the results, that all palm trees survived every winter and some are even looking great. I did not know if they'd survive -22C (-8F) outside, but they did!

The "Coco Queen" I have looks a lot different. There's a bunch of other Syagrus, like Amara, Sancona, etc. According to Palmpedia, Sancona is known as the Columbian Foxtail. The photos look similar to ones here: https://palmpedia.net/wiki/Syagrus_sancona I'm trying Sancona, Amara, Lorenzonorium, Ruschiana, Schizophylla and Romanz-Schizo hybrid. Unfortunately the 22.5F cold killed a bunch of the small ones.

It's pretty common for palms to "eat" the oldest fronds shortly after transplant. Just cut them off when they are totally dried out and crispy.

Maybe technically, but it’s really not the cold that does damage to roots generally, it’s the combination of cold and wet that promotes rot. Free draining mixes are very important in temperate climates I’ve found. For what it’s worth I kept 5 of my 11 sprouted seeds I mentioned earlier in this thread after gifting a few. All planted in the ground but now I’ve dug one to donate to the Melbourne Botajic Gardens soon. They’ve been slow but reliable and trouble free growers with some variability in colour and growth rate. They are now around 7.5 years from germination.