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Here’s one in Pearland, Texas. Seed from a South Texas palm . The wet humid climate bleaches the blue a bit.

Update from Pearland Livistona decora, Ravenea rivularis(Majesty) Archontophoenix tuckeri #1(4 feet of trunk) Hyphaene petersiana: Bismarckia nobilis#1 Livistona australis: Acrocomia totai: Archontophoenix tuckeri #2: Butia sp.: Beccariophoenix alfredii : Bismarckia nobilis#2: Sabal uresana: Medemia argun: Livistona nitida, Copernicia alba(8 feet of trunk), Butia sp.: Copernicia alba#1(more sun, 8 feet of trunk): Copernicia alba #2(more shade, 2 feet of trunk ) Queen palm:Mule Palm (Butia x Syagrus): Butia x Parajubaea torallyi: Phoenix theophrastii “Golkoy”:Phoenix sylvestris: Ravenea rivularis(Majesty):

That little bit less precipitation actually makes a difference especially in winter. South Salem had more Washingtonia in the ground than the Portland area. During those polar incursions you are right about Portland getting that terrible east wind through the gorge. Fortunately I was more protected than NE Portland, but it still could affect me. Portland would get snow and I would get rain or mixing. What I can say is that even when you go down to Salem the average winter temps are colder which gives it that half zone rating lower. It would be frosty and frozen in Salem and further south and it wasn’t at my place. Hopefully your palm is able to tolerate the climate. I don’t think you will have to worry so much about winter damage but more so it having a growth rate equal to or greater than the aging out of older fronds. Keep us updated.

Got it from a reputable farm and they sale that size often.

Our municiple supply is 7.3-7.6 depending. Soil was tested as 8.1 three years ago. But that was a spot in my front yard; I have nearly an acre so I don't know the distribution across all soil I have, nor how it changes with depth. Given the known averages, feels like a safe assumption. I'm agreeing with sonoranfans; I think irrigation has washed away usable nutrients. The fertilizer I used has water soluable iron, manganese and magnesium. Hopefully that helps it recover. Epsom salt worries me a bit; I've read the line between enough and too much is really narrow.

Tracy, I just went outside and photographed both the F. abutilifolia and the F. glumosa. Both have grown quite a lot over the nearly 11 months since the above photos, although the F. abutilifolia sure seems to be looking around for some rocks to snake through. I suppose at some point it might decide to be an upright tree? Maybe not. But it has beautiful foliage, a nice lemon-yellow tinge to the bark, and loves the extreme heat out here. The same toughness of character can be attributed to F. glumosa, although that one would be a model student in any teacher's class, neatly confined to their seat with a sense of great propriety! I'm fascinated by the woolly and yet glossy-green foliage. F. abutilifolia: F. glumosa:

The Talls apparently recover faster than the dwarfs after winter which I didn’t know until recently, how many frawnds do your survived coconuts have now?

Sent you a message

Sold, thanks

More fell afterwards, but its just not summer on the escarpment without at least one major flood event.

I checked on the website and it says that they just ship in USA😓🤦🏻‍♂️

If you have had no rain, I suspect watering issue, not fungus. Fungus typically occurs from being wet, as in overhead irrigation. You may just have smaller areas where the irrigation water runs off and now that there is no rain the moisture is not spreading in the soil. No moisture means no feeding on nutrients Concrete block wall never caused a problem for me in Arizona's sonoran desert. But the soil there was alkaline. Really high calcium soils cannot be practically treated for pH. If your soil test does not call your soil calcareous, pH can be shifted safely and gradually with sulfur pellets which gradually break down with microbe action and will neutralize calcium if you add enough. I added a few hundred pounds over 3 years and didnt see any evidence of a pH caused Iron deficiency after that. You could temporarily shift the soil pH by adding some dilute Epsom salt solution as a short term emergency action. Get a water can and put down 10 gallons of 1 heaping teaspoon every 2 gallons. This will alter the local soil pH temporarily so micronutrient uptake can occur. All the symptoms, actions, and observations considered, I would do the Epsom salt add some chelated iron fi that is in the nutritional spray. Bioavailability of micros at soil 8.5pH has copper, Zinc, boron, manganese, phosphorus, and most of all Iron are not very bio available. Even at pH 8 only phosphorus become sufficiently bioavailable. There is a lot of potential there for complex deficiencies if your soil is pH 8-8.5. Lack of water will aggravate a soil pH problem further by reduced feeding. The palm nutritional spray should be added just after the Epsom salt pushes the pH down (temporarily). I would get a soil test for calcium and pH and start reading on soil pH amendments. A short, fast pH adjustment by say Ammonium sulfate may shock the palm and it could get a setback. Sulfur is the safest way but takes time. Epsom salt is more mild in shifting pH than ammonium sulfate or ammonium nitrate though it adds the Mg which is probably a good thing in high calcium coil as palms prefer a low Ca to Mg ratio of about 3.

You say it is an alkaline soil. Do you know the pH? Have you had it tested? Also, what is your water’s pH? Severely out of balance pH situations can cause deficiencies where some nutrients become unobtainable to the palm. It is possible that they looked fine before but actually had deficiencies that you didn’t notice. Have you changed anything in your care routine recently?

I recently visited Isola di Brissago and I spotted your palm on my way to the ferry. Brissago_1567156.MP4

$1 each, 20 minimum order. plus $9 shipping, US only. Includes USDA inspection out of Honolulu. Only have 120

Thanks a lot for your help. Can you just guide me how to order it, because I tried to do it but I don’t really know how to order it. Maybe I can give you my number and we speak on whatsup or as you prefer. Thanks in advance

We have high alkaline soil here. I have a maple that isn't gonna make it because I cannot keep up with the iron and soil acidifier treatments as it grows. At this point my theory is iron and manganese deficiency from even higher pH due to the block wall, and all the rocks inside the fill dirt on the hill one. Maybe they took tough soil and made it worse. Seems weird they are both doing it with such different sites, but, if the alternativeis fungus, I really can't imagine how it could take hold when its been 90F-105F for 3 months with <5% humidity and zero rain until this week (well after all this began). Our weather mirrors Vegas. The rest of the palm fronds are unchanged on both specimens. And both have perfectly green center spears. I just dont know if those center spears will also yellow as they try to grow out. I gave a full soil drench of the fertilizer I listed above (Southern Ag Palm Nutritional Spray) a week ago. Plan to do it again in another week per the bottle instructions. Is there anything else I should be doing?

Hmmm Sometimes desert situations really get bad nutrient deficiencies too; I don’t know a lot about that.

I will and it’s most likely a mutation as the only cycads around were Z. Integrifolia where I found the seeds

Not to bury the update above, but I noticed its nearest neighboring palm about 20 feet away, has a leaning center with some abnormal yellow and at least one frond is opening strange. Its hard to show in pictures, but the key point is that all the spears are acting a bit floppy. And lean. Nothing like the top hill but also not normal for this palm in the past. Its in a very different situation (a bit more standing water when irrigated, block wall right next to it) versus original palm of this post which is on a solo hill. Water just runs away. Could it still be related? Are these both just somehow deficient because of some random soil difference on this side of my yard?

None of them will budge. They are every bit as anchored as the healthy fronds. I pulled as hard as I could with leather gloves until I ripped them with the armor, and it will not move. To clarify, the center-most spear is green. Whether it will stay that way remains to be seen. But its solid and I cannot pull them at all. More images attached here.

Yesterday, I spoke with the owner and manager of the garden. He is a Chilean man living on the island; his wife is a native of the island, and it is their private garden. He explained to me that, during a trip to Tahiti (French Polynesia), he was able to bring back palm seeds. We are going to propagate seeds *in vitro* and clone palms in the laboratory. I want to help him with exotic palms. I hope everything goes well. 🌴🌴🦜

Thank you for the feedback. To clarify, these have been there 3 years. They are pretty established with a foot of trunk growth since planting. We have had zero rain since March, until 3 days ago. How would fungus appear in the heart with no moisture? I will go try and tug on the dead fronds.

The idea that it is one of several washies and the only one to have this issue says its likely a site problem. THe newer parts of the crown drying up like that are consistent with a fungal infection as Dave said. THe spear may pull with a tug,dont be afraid to tug on it repeatedly, thge center is dead. Need to get peroxide and fungicide down the spear hole ASAP with no delay.