All Activity

Haven’t made a choice yet, but 95% the pindo it has the trunk size, the frond spread and is a nice specimen. But still getting photos of palms.

No real suggestions on the specific seeds you mentioned, though I've grown both in Fresno and they die in our heat. Parajubara sunkha does better than coccoides and grows in Fresno. Torralyi does as well. None of the ceroxylon have ever made it through one of my summers.

I have those decipiens hybrids as well - and there is a whole thread on the main forum about these. They are a smaller, clustering palm and does great all throughout Coastal SoCal (No surprise there!) but also in the Central Valley, which might be a bit more similar to Lancaster, though not as cold I think.

So what's your final choice?! Of all the suggestions, I would do a beccariophoenix.

I don't know as I haven't examined them closely at that stage to compare. You will soon discover though when it opens.

@kinzyjr after a couple of weeks it's clear that some palms just won't bounce back. Yesterday I cleaned up one section of the front yard. I'm calling this the "Corypha bed" because I planted a small Corypha Lecomtei in the middle. It was remarkably undamaged, but I also put a cardboard box over it on all the frosts and any night under ~35F. Here's the before: The bulk of the dead vegetation here are cycads. The bottom of the fronds were still green, so most likely they'll flush out this spring. There's Encephalartos Laurentianus, Bandula, Gratus, and Gratus x Laurentianus. Cycas Thouarsii and some Zamia Furfuracea were also torched. Cycas Debaoensis (hybrid) and several Zamia "Coonties" were fine, along with a hybrid Encephalartos Transvenosus x (Trans x Woodii). Dypsis/Chrysalidocarpus Lanceolata and Pembana were killed, along with a Syagrus Schizophylla, Archontophoenix Purpurea, and Satakentia Liukiuensis double. Most likely D-E-D are a Syagrus Amara, Bottle, and Gaussia Princeps double. Even the two Allagoptera Arenaria were damaged, but surprisingly the Licuala Sumawongii looks nearly perfect! I'd had some Sumawongii die after upper 20s frosts, so this one (and a couple of others in the yard) are a surprising success! Here's the after: @TropicsEnjoyer you can see the above Angustifolia looks like nothing happened. But there are three others in the yard (all from the same original plant) that are melted to 95% mush. I can't explain it...so weird! This particular bed has an average of 64% leaf burn and 18% mortality, yikes! @kinzyjr I'll collect all the data in a sheet later this spring.

You might not be aware, but there are three frond shapes on the regular ol' Pindo. The first is the common one, straight and arching. The second gets a pronounced "twist" to the fronds, so that new ones coming out tend to curve and wrap around the palm a bit. The third is pretty rare and called "Strictior" or something like that. It's mostly straight fronds with not much arch to them. For visual reference, here's my twisty one. They come out mostly straight and then start twisting to the left as they age. Some of them end up close to horizontal. I like all the forms, but this one is one of my personal favorites.

It does

My climate is pretty mild in winter, it’s mostly the summers im worried about. I don’t see myself having to wrap palms in lights and frost sheets. In the 13 years I’ve lived here Ive never seen it. There are pockets in the valley that experience this more, like Saugus and Canyon country closer to foothills. But I’ve decided against the Royal. I think the pindo is the compromise. I get the pinnate fronds that look elegant and its hardy and can take summer heat.

Not my taste to be honest. I can appreciate it, but not something I would ever want myself. I will probably stick with the pindo. It’s just hardy but looks much better for my taste. Santa Clarita, specifically Valencia isn’t considered a desert, but it is a transitional zone. It’s the transition from a coastal inland valley to high desert. Our climate is much different than the high desert which is 40 miles away. It’s much different than the coast which is 35 miles away. Best I can describe is we’re right in between. High desert will have lows of 30, we’ll be 38 and the beach would be 45.

It will need very regular watering for the first year or so after planting while the root system establishes. You may not see too much new foliar growth during this period. Create some temporary shade/shelter from excessive heat and direct sun when temperatures exceed 35°C / 95°F. Good luck.

That pot seem like a decorative one. Does it have any holes on bottom?

The first mystery Sabal is the small leaf (less robust) form of Sabal yapa.

I accept everyone wants pinnate palms, preferably crown shafted. What I will tell you as an oldster; the less maintenance, the better. Be honest with yourself regarding climate and drive to maintain. Me, I'd drop a B.armata with 6 to 8 feet of trunk near the driveway. Water it first year then forget it. In semi-shade probably P.roebellini. Don't put anything out front that neighbors will see you wrapping or boxing. That stuff you should hide in the back. Dig a 30" hole and drop in a 24" inch pot with a lipstick palm. It'll be your secret.

@happypalms great post ! I am just curious how old that Kentiopsis ( Chambeyronia) Pyroformis is . Mine takes a full year to get a new frond , only once in the year and half I have had it. Harry edit: it actually shrunk a bit after I planted it in the ground!

I would post this in the main palm discussion forum. These aren’t palms that would be considered cold hardy. All of the California growers are in there and should be able to help.

I still think that for what you are trying to accomplish, it's hard to beat a well grown Becarriophoenix alfredi. Royals are very attractive palms. But, the falling leaves can be an issue. My 40 foot Royal palm has dropped leaves onto my roof and the sound is disconcerting. If it were to fall on a vehicle or (heaven forbid onto a person) it could be a real issue. If you determine you have the space for one, it would be my choice. They do grow slowly. But they look good at all stages of growth. I'm in the Orlando area and we just had a once in 40 or 50 year cold event. I have a large Ficus tree that completely defoliated. My Adonidia palms are completely fried. I think everything will come back. But, for now, they look terrible. My Royal palm (40+ feet tall) is 80 to 90% defoliated but will come back. The good news in all of this is that my Becarriophoenix alfredi just laughed at the cold event and looks perfect. Just my 2 cents...

The easiest way for me to kill a Kentia is for me to buy one. Guaranteed death in under a year no matter what i do.

It's hard not to just start cutting immediately because of how bad everything looks. Hope that you have a few success stories as well.

I also have ‘Sprouted Seeds’ of Dictyosperma ‘conjugatum’ @ .35 each….Ptychosperma sp @.25 each….and Heterospathe brevicaulis @.25 each. Get them cheap before I plant in community pots. Plus shipping, spaghum, etc. Beachpalms@cfl.rr.com

That is a great spot!!

Coriacea needs a 10 cm deeper pot than thebaica.

It’s amazing to have a plant for 25 years and you finally find that right spot in the garden for it. I still have empty places in my garden that I landscaped 30 years ago knowing I will have the right plant one day for that special spot. Slowly iam filling those gaps it seems iam in no hurry that’s for sure!