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happypalms
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bubba
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tim_brissy_13
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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/22/2026 in all areas
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10 pointsFlowering Oraniopsis appendiculata at the Royal botanic gardens in Sydney
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I would think probably because they are so slow not that I think that is a bad thing!!! The first picture is the first palms that I planted in my new house and gave me the palm big the second picture is of some Washingtonian palms I planted about 5 years later all planted from basically 5 gal!! In a residential area who would want a telephone pole looks nice for the neighbors or a good way to find your house!!!
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4 pointsBactris gassiapaes, Chambeyronia watermelon and a rather well dressed moth.
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People generally don't grow, what they don't know. With some promotion, more availability, and a few adventurous gardeners that don't want to grow the same 10 palm species as everyone else, sabals could easily become more common 'out west'. Foxtails and bismarcks are 2 palm examples, although admittedly faster growers, that have moved from obscure to common in just a 20 year period. (1995-2015) aztropic Mesa, Arizona3 points -
Exactly, robustas are good skyline palms. If you’re a land developer and you plant rows of robustas, in 20 years you’ll have a beautiful skyline with 40-50 ft palms. But that does very little for the personal garden. Its more of a macro aesthetic for the overall area.3 points -
3 pointsThis Lepidozamia peroffskyana male is coning again. Last year it skipped flushing and pushed 2 cones too. It is ironic that when cycads are small, welcome forward to that first cone on a plant. At this point I would prefer a flush over another pair of cones on this particular plant. I have a Ceratozamia that pushed back to back cones and she is just showing a flush. Perhaps it read my mind that coning without flushing could lead to liquidation?
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Good question... Both genus are comprised of very tough palms that are drought tolerant, light freeze resistant, and are happy to grow in western USA's alkaline soils. Biggest issue I see is their generally slow rate of growth under dry air and desert conditions. That being said, I've grown out several species of Coccothrinax and other Caribbean native palms from seed, but it generally takes me 7-10 years just to produce a 'west coast' 5 gallon plant for sale. Here's a few examples in order left to right. Coccothrinax argentata,Coccothrinax miraguama, Coccothrinax borhidiana, and a Pseudophoenix sargentii thrown in for good measure. 😄 aztropic Mesa, Arizona
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2 pointsThis Pritchardia was obtained as Lowreyana but as you can see it is not that species. Any advice is appreciated
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2 pointsThis is my old F1 woodii x natalensis I got from Cynthia Giddy who made it in SA. My cycad log says 1985 acquired for $60. Cynthia was visiting Hermione Stover in California and brought with her hundreds of these bare rooted in bundles of 3, like cigars. All had been treated with her signature petroleum dip, so they largely failed. Mine I washed off and soaked and rinsed many, many times, but it still smelled of petroleum. Well, here's the plant today with 3+ feet of trunk growing 20 leaves. You'll notice the characteristic folded- hands leaflets among the lowest leaf bases -- a trait directly brought from pure woodii.
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2 pointsCouple more coming in. Encephalartos Green Arenarius is always a great grower for me. Encephalartos Princeps from another grower is the 2nd. -dale
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2 pointsC. mossiae s/a `San Andres' An original division from Waldor last summer; first time blooming for me.
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2 pointsHi Tim, I will take a picture in the morning, I will also compare it with a remota. It has seeded at a height much shorter than hildebrandii i have seen before2 points
Not that slow, but I haven’t grown hardy MAPU before only dasyanthas. And they are quite fast growing varieties.2 points
2 pointsWhen you get to the Canary Islands plant as many as you can you won’t regret it, go to town and plant joeys like I have so far a dozen good well established seedlings. And I have more than enough joeys and Kerriodoxas to see me out planting them!
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2 pointsIf I were doing it on one of mine, maybe no more than half a handful. Asmall amount is unlikely to cause any burn problems. If you want to be extra safe, Osmocote or fish emulsion are more burn-proof. I have a big bag of Magnesium Sulfate granular. I add that to Phoenix, B. Alfredii, and Copernicia at least once a year. Adding some in about a month may help with yellowing. Adding some now could be a burn risk.2 points
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2 pointsThat's an awfully thin leaf for a Butiagrus cross. Is the other one next to it one of mine?2 points
That one to the right of the driveway is typical 10 years after a five-gallon pot. Those larger ones would be closer to 20 years. Palmetto is drought tolerant, but it won't grow much. It's a swamp Palm.
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Yep...just pulled spear on six three gallon potted mules and two more schizzophylla. These will be treated of course and I'll hope for the best. Still no sign of life from my three Beccarriophoenix alfredii...2 points
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2 pointsI can see how this Cycas Siamensis “Silver form” got its name. I wish the leaves would stay silver like this but they usually start turning green in a few days after this stage.
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2 pointsTwo eventually did and are growing fine. Two started producing new growth but spear pulled a second time. I took a more aggressive approach and crown cut them, to which both again started pushing new growth and I thought they'd be good. Then one took a turn for the worst and died. The other one continued but yet again pulled spear last year. This is how it looks today and appears to be pushing new growth. And this is how it should look, as this one was transplanted at the same time from the same grower to my yard. It had pulled spear once and has recovered nicely. Both were fruiting at the time and it's why I selected these, as the intent is for them to be future mule producers.
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2 pointsThe offset on the main caudices is flushing. It is like a wort on the otherwise perfectly symmetrical main plant. Perhaps I should see it ss a beauty mark instead? A chunky monkey Encephalartos longifolius male.
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2 pointsThere’s some cones, there is some flushes but people often ask how do i propagate suckers/offsets or how do i pollinate a cone, how do i know when it’s ready etc….. today i removed a couple nice offsets from one of my female E. Dyerianus plants. A fairly easy process depending on plant location and soil. These happen to be in easy digging soil. I removed the excess dirt around the area of the offset. Today my tools consisted of a hammer and crowbar. Simply placed the crowbar between the offset and main stem and a couple love taps later we have a beautifully removed female dyerianus sucker. I treat these in a fungicide and add a rooting powder to the exposed areas on the offset. Place in perlite or pumice and give it a good water in. Sit back and wait for your roots to grow….
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2 pointsA nice dypsis plumosa in the sandstone countryside and a Areca vestria not wanting to miss out on any attention!
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You're overthinking it... The palm looks perfectly fine and has no disease. In the real world, you are going to see occasional brown spots,dried leaf tips, bug chews, wind damage, oldest fronds yellow, etc. Absolutely perfect specimens are rare, are usually greenhouse grown, and will incur the minor imperfections you note if placed outside. Rainstorms can never over water it. 🤷♂️ aztropic Mesa, Arizona1 point
Definitely time to re-pot those Chinese Fan palms into a larger container. Don’t worry about those minor imperfections on the petioles.1 point
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1 pointHere is a really big adult female at Mounts Botanical Garden in West Palm Beach
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1 pointI am a little suspicious about the identity of your Encephalartos cerinus based on the relative width to length of the leaflets. I don't recall mine at that age and whether wider leaflets are just a juvenile trait, so I could be wrong. My boy has had a little green tip poking out, threatening to flush for about a month. No changes thus far though. You can see the leaflets are relatively narrow in the leaf photo.
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1 pointDioon edule, “Palma Sola” pushing up its first Encephalartos cerinus with a new frond
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1 pointFrom the looks of that building, it’s WAY WAY older than the Queen palm that is about twenty years old. That building certainly wasn’t built in 2006 or later. I’ve seen many cases of palms “hugging” the walls they are right next to.1 point
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1 pointBentnickia condapanna, one tough palm, it’s so dry at the moment and the condapanna is still looking good! It could look better with a lot more water, but iam impressed at how tough they are!
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