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That looks like my C. microspadix. Leaflets are too wide to be C. seifrizii.

I have another spiral I like even better, but I’ve noticed both of them are a lot more sensitive than some of the other gingers I’ve got.

HEAT and TIME! I've grown and sold several batches of Pseudophoenix sargentii over the years. They are not particular about soil, as long as it is fast draining. I use a mineral based medium with plenty of sand, light weight lava rocks, and some of my native alkaline soil. These in 5 gallon pots (below) are already going on seven years old from seed, grown entirely under my Arizona desert conditions. I am currently starting my last ever batch of these from seed right now...😄 If you'd like a real challenge, try growing Pseudophoenix ekmanii... I collected the seeds for these myself from habitat in 2020. Sold several over the years, but my last 3 are STILL just seedlings in 1 gallon pots. Talk about slow... To be fair, I know that P ekmanii does not like my climatic conditions, but is still super slow for anybody that dares to give them a try.🌴 aztropic Mesa, Arizona

I recall this one is Macrozamia communis. I got it a while back as a seedling with 1 or 2 leaves. It was still small when I put it in the ground and I wasn't thinking about how leaves would eventually hang over the retaining wall. I like the appearance of the hanging leaves despite it being unintentional.

Brad I like the leaf form on this spiral ginger, it really looks nice on your specimen. I got a start of it at one of our local Palm Society meetings and have been growing it for at least a couple of years. Mine doesn't look as stunning as yours or the member I got it from. I tend to think I should be giving it a little more water in my climate. I have sandy fast draining soil which probably means it dries out a bit between drinks.

Echoing comments above...HEAT! This wants hot days and very warm nights (80s F). Since tissue production occurs at night, a location with cool nights is going to severely impact the speed of growth on this heat-tuned species. This is why it's not a common palm in the cool coastal climate of California, since it just frustrates so many growers there. It survives but just is glacially slow. Here in the low desert of the Palm Springs area, it pushes at a quite decent clip, as it did for me when I lived in its native Florida Keys. And since I think you get a good amount of precipitation, I'd recommend a dryish, gritty growing medium (coarse sand, lava rock or crushed limestone, something similar, and just a little bit of open-textured organics like coco-coir chunks). Also I'd recommend getting it out of the container and into an open growing medium in the ground. If you're keeping it in a container, maybe get a black net-pot and fill it with black lava-rock (for maximum oxygen at the roots, and quick water-dissipation) in a full-sun situation. In its native habitat in the Florida Keys, it grows on solid limestone with a thin layer of humic material and has evolved to tolerate months of dryness every year. They don't like a wet, hypoxic root-zone and appreciate perfect drainage and abundant oxygen around the roots. But I don't think this species actually requires a high-pH medium, it's adaptable in that way, but you might want to plant it on a slight raised mound/berm for great drainage if you're in a wetter, more humus-rich environment, and definitely I'd recommend giving it a hot western exposure and equator-facing against a hot wall in your cooler zone, maybe with black lava rock or similar over the root-zone for nighttime heat retention, or some other hack to make it think it's in a hotter climate than you have there. One thing I love about this palm is that, even at a small size, once the palm has three leaves or so, it has its uniquely open, sculptural quality and unusual color, which is eye-catching. My own tactic with slow palms like this is to pick those that have ornamental qualities while small, planting them in groups or even randomly through an area, and enjoy them for what they are in concert with their surroundings. If they grow large and flourish, so much the better, but if they stay slow, as long as they maintain a good appearance, I don't sweat it. With other palms, like many Syagrus species, the multi-year waiting period in the often lackluster juvenile period can be agonizing in anticipation of that first pinnate leaf that signals an imminent growth-spurt into the "beauty phase." If you just really have to have the mass of a larger palm quickly, I'd recommend you use something like the somewhat similar and much faster growing Hyophorbe verschaffeltii in its place. Or if you have access, grow some of the 'Navassana' form of the palm, which is known to grow vertically more quickly, due I think primarily to wide internodal spacing on the trunk. Otherwise, maybe put the Pseudophoenix sargentii amidst a fast-growing backdrop of bananas, gingers, heliconias, etc. and later on you can cut those back somewhat once the palm has some size to it.

If it is, in fact, overpotted (too big of a pot) it won't be for long. They're fast growers, if they're happy.

@pooroldmajesty NICE TO MEET YOU AND WELCOME TO THE FORUM! Majesties in habitat literally grow standing in water, or at least "dipping their toes" (of the roots) in it. I sincerely sincerely doubt you're anything close to overwatering them. Now that the weather is warm, I'd separate the ones in your pot and give each its own pot, and stand it in a deep saucer and keep the saucer full of water. They're thirsty things. A good friend from Eire called them "like Irish fish."

All so true. With all this rain Harris County is out of drought, and I've seen most areas of the state have improved as well. Not only mosquitoes, the weeds are out of control at my place.

I would certainly remove from the pot and check the bottom . Another thing about house plants , they enjoy some outdoor time on a shady porch or under a protected area . Let the breeze blow through them for a few hours if you get a break in the weather. In the summer , they will need shade most of the day at that age . Harry

Here in Southern California it seems every nursery had lots of them about 20 years ago. Now , I rarely see them . I have a couple of clumps and the one in the shady side of the house is huge and dark green , planted in the ground. It has to be tied in a bundle to keep from being destroyed by the wind we get . The other is in a more sunny location and still in a pot . It is a lighter green and only about 6’ tall , including the pot. I have had them for many years , even before this house. They were originally house plants at our old house. In the shade they do very well and thrive . Yours look very happy there . Cool tolerant and can handle a bit of wind if bundled up and tied. Mine have seen over 60mph gusts without losing a frond . Harry We love looking out our kitchen window and seeing the “jungle effect” . The line that holds it up is tied to a single trunk C. Tepejelote to the right and a C. Lutescens to the left.

If there is, please let me know😃, because i'm also starting to grow my other salak palm as a bonsai😄

I would think a deep watering at least twice a week , depending on the weather and soil condition. Keep in mind that the palm will take time to fully recover . The new growth will slowly look better as the palm get the water it needs. The older fronds will not improve but they will be replaced by healthy fronds. Southern California is very dry this time of year . Harry

If there is no rain, then 30-min once-a-week seems like too little water.

When your plants decline, you should ask yourself what has changed? Were the palms looking good before you moved them outside? Even up north, moving palms outside should be done carefully. In the house, they were protected from some uv rays. It might be sun damage. Or maybe the move outside exposed them to colder temperatures than they were used to. Most homes stay in a narrow range of temperatures but outside it could fluctuate 30-40 degrees in a day. You can check the soil by digging down with your hand along the pot. Or you could just lay it sideways and pull the whole rootball out. If it is wet and mucky, you could change out the soil. Potting soil is difficult anyway. There is no standard on what potting soil should be. It can be ground bark, peat moss, compost, sticks, rocks, or whatever. Some have perlite, some don’t. Generally, I have found that potting mix (not soil) works better for indoor plants because it is lighter, freely draining and you can control the nutrients.

I agree. Nice ones too.

Glorious

It looks like it’s overpotted, this has caused the drainage issues. Most likely if you were to tip the palm out of the container the bottom portion of the soil would be sour. Creating problems with drainage issues, lack of oxygen and wet sour soil, not a good combination!

Not a gigas, but just as big growing the Caryota maxima!

They fit into any part of the understory!

I wonder if, like a most high altitude palms, they like consistently cool nights, which might be more critical at the seedling stage? Mine a are a year or so old and no problems so far...and now I'm wishing that I'd never said that...touch wood, touch wood!

Bit of an unusual trait for a flower to have fasciation. Somewhat of a different flower trait, not uncommon, but a bit rare. Definitely makes for an interesting bit of a conversation piece.

Chambeyronia, Areca vestria and kerriodoxa elegans getting my attention!

A great little understory fern, a true Australian classic fern. Will grow on a rock log and even in a hanging basket. I have seen them in habitat, wet sclerophyll subtropical forests in gullies and creek beds. Somewhat easy to grow. The plant in the picture was my grandmother’s fern and is well loved in my garden!

Fake