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  2. Johnny Palmseed

    C. miraguama *DIAGNOSIS HOTLINE*

    As stated above, it’s not necessarily abnormal but it could be a little nutrient deficient. Fertilizing lightly? We are entering the maximum growth months and you could probably step that up. Also, is it palm specific fertilizer? That’s the best place to start since fertilizers have literally millions of possible combinations.
  3. Cape Garrett

    Dypsis lutescens Fused Leaf 4-year seedlings x4 in 1g

    Any updated pictures to share?
  4. It is a pleasure to read your introduction and the good news about the reserve for Sabinaria magnifica. Congratulations on your success in establishing the reserve. I hope it is indeed legally and permanently protected. So many times we read about reserves that are "protected" but then local people continue with past practices that are detrimental to nature. How do you manage to truly protect the reserve? I realize this is in a remote area, but I wonder if now it is possible to visit the reserve? The IPS went to Colombia in 2018, but at the time it was deemed too dangerous to visit the Sabiniaria habitat. Has the situation changed? This is a beautiful palm, sure wish I had a few!
  5. One of my favorite species. Always look good, easy care, and a nice scale for smaller gardens or featured spots. Some can get quite pinnate leaves, others somewhere in between, an then almost entire. Mine are the latter and have a ‘Joey’ look with a more tapered leaf tip. Good luck. Tim
  6. PalmatierMeg

    C. miraguama *DIAGNOSIS HOTLINE*

    we need photos
  7. PalmatierMeg

    Dypsis lutescens Fused Leaf 4-year seedlings x4 in 1g

    I'm not sure but I think this cultivar does not flower nor set seeds. Propagation by division only. I don't divide mine because of risk of losing the whole plant to root rot.
  8. Chester B

    Texas Palms

    Some of the plumbagos had some pretty long and thick roots that had spread a few feet from the base of the plant. Not sure why they died but sometimes these things happen. I had varying success with Tecoma this year too. Two did great, two not so good, and the two largest and earliest planted ones are barely showing signs of life. Some of these plants I have not grown before so it's all a learning experience. The salvia guaranitica varieties do bloom profusely, but they do need a little more water than say farinaceae or greggii. My S guaranitica "rhythym and blues" spread immensely this spring taking over a pretty decent area. That was new to me.
  9. Today
  10. Hola @Tracy recientemente compré semillas de ficus dammaropsis de frutos rojos , leyendo tus experiencias me venido abajo jaja, pero navegando en Instagram he visto uno de buen tamaño en tu ciudad , en el jardín botánico de San Diego , encinitas y tiene una muy buena apariencia erguida , has pensado cambiarlo de ubicación? O darle algún suplemento ? El que está en el jardín botánico de San Diego parece recibir sol directo
  11. Navarro

    Colvillea racemosa

    Vivo en España y el mío se le secan las ramas verdes todos los inviernos (los 3 inviernos que lo tengo ) y hace una semana que empezó a brotar , el año pasado brotó un mes antes
  12. I'm in major agreement in re a wide (and widening) basin for watering, not only for this species but for most. People have been conditioned to think that roots grow down, down, down to get water...without realizing that roots also need plentiful oxygen, and "down, down, down" in most soils is hypoxic/anoxic and thus a "no-grow" zone for roots (except in the most sandy/rocky "soil"), so they almost always go "out, out, out" and stay relatively close to the surface. Beccariophoenix alfredii is native to the immediate shores of the Mania River in central Madagascar, and thus, like the date palm and many other similar river/oasis dwellers, would have ready access to subterranean water. Beccariophoenix alfredii seems like it's definitely more drought tolerant than, say, Ravenea rivularis, but probably enjoys a similar natural environment for maximum growth and happiness. These principles are I think why you see Syagrus romanzoffiana looking great on some highly irrigated golf-courses in the low desert but most of them in general landscape situations look like torture victims because they're placed on pathetic drip-systems with the desert succulents. Same also for Bismarckia, not really in appearance, since it is a pretty tough customer, but in growth rate. Again, they get installed surrounded by Agave and Yucca. And the irrigation systems get geared toward that. Drip, drip, drip.
  13. Sr. Califas

    Cycad cones and flushes

    Love that emergent color! Great stuff, way to keep that thing happy!!
  14. mnorell

    Colvillea racemosa

    Sometimes Colvillea is late to leaf out. I have seen some variability also between specimens here in my landscape. I have two younger trees, one in the ground, one in a container, that leafed out about a month ago, but the larger one in the ground is just starting to break dormancy. Think about the natural rhythm for the trees in their native habitat, many monsoonal trees (many flowering trees fit that situation) don't even lose their leaves until February-March-April (Colvillea drops them sooner in my experience). Often these monsoonal trees, like Delonix regia, use this drier period to flower (Colvillea being a bit of an odd exception) and then they re-leaf once the rains start (or are about to start), pretty much at the onset of summer when moisture will be more regularly available. Colvillea looks to have a primary distribution in the dry deciduous forests of western Madagascar from roughly the central area (more or less the Bemaraha plateau region) to the northern tip of the island, with apparently scattered distribution further southward, in areas that receive some rain, but north of the spiny forest area in the extreme south/southwest, from about Toliara northward. Kew has a collection made by Missouri Botanical Garden in 1988 made around the Beza Mahafaly Reserve, which is at nearly 24 degrees South. Sources I consulted show that this drier southern distribution receives about 35-45cm (14-18") of rain annually, and the dry season can be 7-8 months. This species also does well in the Florida Keys (about 35" of rain), where I grew it previously, and in Miami (60" of rain), where I saw it in flower, but it's worth remembering that those areas of Florida are on porous limestone and so drainage is generally excellent, and the spring season is usually hot and bone-dry until rains really get going in July. So be patient. But I think the good drainage and seasonal and relatively light rainfall in habitat should be considered when planting. Many years ago I rotted one of these in heavy soil and have kept that in mind since. (They can take plenty of irrigation or heavy rain during the hot season, though.) They love heat and sun and definitely want to move into dormancy in the winter, in my casual observations and experience they are much less likely than Delonix regia to hold any good foliage through winter. Hopefully your area of Greece doesn't see too much below about 27F, that's where I saw damage occur when I attempted to grow the tree as a die-back in southern Mississippi years ago. I think if the tree can get into dormancy and any frosts/freezes occur after it does so, perhaps you can get a bit of extra cold-tolerance. But I would definitely mulch the base of the trunk if a hard freeze is forecast, as this tree can probably regenerate from the lower trunk if frozen back and the soil kept dry.
  15. An interesting and beautiful ecological interaction that we were able to observe during our last visit to the reserve, was this group of Pygmy fruit eating bats (Artibeus phaeotis), modifying and using a leaf of Sabinaria magnifica as their daytime roost. Sabinaria is possibly an important resource for this bat species in the area.
  16. Fantastic results, congratulations. Thank you for the useful information.
  17. I love seeing success stories in a world of high challenges to conservation. Thanks for your hard work!
  18. While BA grows deep roots, especially in high drainage soil, watering a wide root zone will give expansive roots and faster growth. More roots means more uptake of nutrients to a point. A wide wetting area is recommended for these as they grow larger. My largest has some pretty dense roots within 4" of the surface 15 feet from the trunk. As is above is below. Larger root systems often lead to larger palms above ground. If you wanted to keep one from getting too large, water less and/or restrict the root zone size.
  19. Harry’s Palms

    Chamaedorea klotzshciana

    I had three of these growing in my courtyard . When grew into afternoon sun , they died . Mine just did not handle being exposed to direct sun at all. Harry
  20. This is awesome news, thanks for sharing!
  21. Zeeth

    Large Palm Tree ID

    The big ones I think you're asking about are Roystonea oleracea. The smaller palms look like Archontophoenix.
  22. Nice you're lucky. This plant has a massive wow factor! Mine is in the ground and probably dead. If I scratch the trunk it's green but it's end of April and no leaves yet...
  23. happypalms

    Chamaedorea klotzshciana

    I would say my ones are from your seed.
  24. Whoa!!! That’s a big change!!
  25. happypalms

    Chamaedorea klotzshciana

    Just give them shade and water, they don’t seem to fussy about soil. They are quite fast growing as well!
  26. happypalms

    We have a dead pinanga declinata

    That’s the problem wet is ok but cold and wet a different story!
  27. I imagine the tropical stuff needs to be dry during cool weather. Vietnam, even at altitude probably only drops to around 15°C.
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