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I have germinated various species of Chamaedorea and never used heat mats or incubators . In fact , I have had very good success planting seeds in the garden . I am currently germinating C. Oblongata , C. Microspadix , C. Radicalis , Arenga Engleri , as well as Archontophoenix and a couple Dypsis varieties , Kentiopsis oliviformis and Chambeyronia Hookeri . I had been using my work bench in the garage over winter but had equal success in the ground on the side of my house. I know heat mats work with some sub tropical or tropical palms but I have never used that method . I recently built ( kit )a small greenhouse to house the seedlings because I needed to keep them contained in one place. I think natural light and temperature is all you need . Try putting the seedlings outside in the shade , water as you do any potted palm and you may find it will work . I planted two C. Tepejelote , that were not much larger than yours , on the side of the house . They are huge now. You have a great growing area in San Diego . Take advantage of it . Harry This C. Radicalis Tree Form grew in the garden from seed. Howea Foresteriana germinated and grew outdoors over winter. More C. Radicalis in a community pot , grown from seeds from my own palms , outdoors. This is one of two C. Tepejelote (this one is a clumping form )that were planted as seedlings Another “volunteer “ sprouting in the garden , Howea F. C. Microspadix I grew from seed from one of my palms , outdoors always. I was able to get this Wodyetia Bifurcata to germinate in the garden. Seed came from a friend’s palm . Unfortunately a rodent made a meal of it.🙁

I asked Jeff and he believes it is the same. Also, I goofed on the original listing of H. vaughanii, they are 4 inch plants, not seedlings!

Too wet, overwatering, damping off, pithium or Phytophera. Do the containers have drainage holes? Or possibly to much heat they do like humidity not dry hot conditions especially as seedlings. Or they have dried out the roots. These are about the only things that go wrong with seedlings apart from over fertilised and animal damage.

@PALM MOD just reporting another scam account @mattllags838 . Unfortunately just another one of those “contact my friend who has these seeds via email” scams. Associated email is dbdarling309@gmail.com. Goes to a decent level of effort to fake authenticity including pictures of actual C nana and an Australian ‘mule’ bank account.

Thank you. I'll see if I can get that locally.

105F at 4:32PM, w/ a Dew Point at 60deg ...15deg less than where it started off this morning. With the high D.P. readings, neighborhood level stations where the afternoon high managed to reach 110 /110+ saw " real feel " temps near and above 120.. Will we see a repeat of yesterday?? Afternoon Satellite view might suggest so. Challenge is ..After last night's storms, local atmosphere was overturned / lapse rates are less ideal than yesterday and it usually takes about 24 hours for these kinds of atmospheric hangovers to fade. That said, ..if the cluster of storms over eastern Pinal Co. atm did manage to make it off the foothills, intact, unlike yesterday at the same time, there is barely any cloudiness / storms out ahead of it and appears there is a nice push of momentum getting ready to plunge west south west off the rim from the N. Eastern corner of AZ which could ..at the very least.. help keep a few decaying showers going as they descend off the mountains / push a gusty outflow boundary into parts of the valley. If we don't see anything this evening, not out of the question some showers try to form late tonight / before sunrise tomorrow.

Hi, I've been trying to grow what I think are chamaedorea tepejilotes from seeds I collected at the zoo. They germinate like crazy and grow very happily in my incubator until they have one nice bifid leaf. But then they start yellowing and looking anemic and eventually turn brown and die. I'm starting to wonder if they're getting too much light or heat since they naturally like it cool/wet/shady. I've been growing in an incubator and indoor greenhouse with overhead light (12 hours on/off) and bottom heat. The temp in the greenhouse thing fluctuates between 80-95F (27-35C) and humidity between 60-80% depending on the sun in the garage, and the bottom-heat is kept at a constant 90F (32C). Recently I've moved them off the bottom-heat. I also moved two seedlings outside once I started to see the beginning of a 2nd leaf, and these seem to be doing OK so far. I checked the roots on some of them and they seem fine - they're all growing in a coir/perlite mix sometimes with some bark. Any suggestions? Does this look like too much heat/light? These conditions have been working well for many other species (syagrus, bismarckia, chamaerops, brahea, etc) but maybe it's too bright/hot for these chams?

Maybe not, but is is 10' off the driveway. The clown thought it would be a good place to maneuver a three point turn. We host guests with larger "camping rigs" known as "Overlanders". Most are pretty good at handling their large rigs... this guy wasn't.

Making room for this years plantings and have some Sabal species that are now buy one get one free for a little while (until they are gone) Sabal blackburniana - https://sabalkingoftexas.etsy.com/listing/1880531662/sabal-blackburniana-liner-seedlings Sabal bermudana - https://sabalkingoftexas.etsy.com/listing/1880534594/sabal-bermudana-seedlings Sabal rosei - https://sabalkingoftexas.etsy.com/listing/4330593057/sabal-rosei-liner-seedlings Also have a lot of other species on sale for the summer in the shop so please feel free to take a look, ask questions and let me know how we can help. Lots of stuff coming very very soon as it will be moved over to the greenhouse and listed!

I spoke too soon. Forecast low was 6C. I was expecting maybe 2 or 3C. The suns not up and the nearest weather station is saying -0.4C. It was 2.4C just after midnight. Grass is crunchy. Gutters are icy. Birdbath has a thin slither of ice. Garden areas don’t have ice yet. Going for a top of 21C today with no clouds for most of it but because we are starting from such a cold start maybe we won’t reach it. Tomorrow morning a cold front approaches so expecting a minimum around 13C. Toasty.

Thanks for your kind offer Gyuseppe! I will have abbondante seeds of Butia yatay later this year to disperse myself!

A heavy dusting of powdered sulfur would be helpful to prevent infection of the raw tissue.

Palm may not have been planted in a good location to start. If so, just remove it. Otherwise, the palm will probably live on without doing anything else to it. aztropic Mesa, Arizona

Looking good Richard, but I deny your allegations. I'm just another victim, lol.

I have a couple grown from seed. In my greenhouse often humid microenvironment these have been sensitive to overwatering and seem to like light, airy soil with peat in it (helps lower pH). I also use distilled water with them.

Tell the guest to learn to drive better, and your palm is scared for life now. You could get some pruning wound sealant and paint that on. Palms don’t produce bark to heal over the wounds. And send the bill to your guest. A fungicide treatment and insecticide may help. But in general the palm will live and look a bit unsightly, and unfortunately it will be a place of entry for pathogens to enter. Plant more palms In lieu of it might pass on to replace it with concrete barriers around it to prevent it happening again, either that or tell the guest to not drink and drive I assume that was the cause of such a good night that ended up with your palm being the victim.🤣

What is killing them? I have one here on O'ahu for about 25 years. Planted next to a leaky lily pond so it get lots of water from the pond. Have not taken a picture in about 5 years.....Coconut Rhinoceros Beetle attacked once but drove them away from this palm.

I always thought my oldest and largest Trachycarpus Fortunei is male, as it never produced any seeds and because it had all the traits of male infructesence. But this year it’s as if it discovered its female side. Obviously it struggles with this new task and so the fruits/seeds it produces look very odd. Only very few seeds look like regular Trachycarpus seeds. Can anyone tell me what this is?

Today definitely brought more rain than yesterday. No real downpours here, but just steady light rain. According to the rain gauge at the dam spillway they got 2.56" which seems about right based on the amount of water I see in my gorilla cart. This will really help with the hot weather headed our way. Hopefully some explosive growth this week. I know that my Bamboos are really happy right now.

Shortly after starting a trunk. Basically when the trunk grew high enough where the drooping leaves no longer touched the ground for support, they just fell off on their own. When the palms were still young and looked like bushes, the leaves would turn completely brown but would not fall off so I cut them to a stub. It took many years for those old stubs to become loose enough so I could break them off without damage. In Jubaea there are two factors which break the fibers of the old leaves and stubs. 1) Weight of the dead leaf drooping down which slowly breaks the fibers holding he leaf on the trunk, and 2) expansion of the lower trunk caused by compression of the weight bearing down as the mass of the trunk increases with age. Fibers holding old stubs at the bottom of the trunk will not fall off by gravity, but will over a much longer period of time eventually break away from the trunk due to expansion caused by compression. I know many people do not agree that Jubaea trunks get wider with age because Palms don't normally do that, but when looking at the leaf scars at the bottom of any Jubaea it is obvious the scars are stretched out 2 to 3 times their original width and are flattened or squished thinner several times original. Also I know Jubaea widen at the base with age because I have measured it year by year leaving no doubt.

Pelago’s sold out now.

Good day everyone. Long time lurker, first silly question. A recent guest ran out of talent and skinned an entire side of a Royal Alexander. Fortunately the ground was wet, and sandy so I'm hopeful that there is minimal root damage (despite obviously been bent to the ground after the rear bumper caught it). My question relates to how I might try to protect it now from further damage by insects or whatever.

Ok, thanks Ben.

the second pic is rupicola for sure. Note how you can see through a leaf close to the stem for a inch or so then the leaflets blocks sun/sky away from the stem. The second pic shows this very well. Sometimes it doesnt come from a pic due to the leaf angle with the camera or due to a full crown blocking light. Here is my rupicola triple, hard to make out the individuals. This is a 15 years from 3 gallon triple cooking in our worst drought in 30 years with limited irrigation water. Each palm of the triple has about 5' of trunk still covered in dead leafbases. A closeup of the stem shows the "see through" at the stem Rupicola is not a large palm, the leaves are 8' long and the tree trunk, leaf bases on, is about 13-15". Mine were well watered, right next to irrigation popup and palms that are near the popups tend to get thicker trunks as they get more water and the trunk is ideally 65-70% water. I have found that trunk thickness of a number of common palms here depend on watering and soil drainage(can kill water intake if root systems are small. Those not on irrigation are always skinnier of the trunk. Rupicola is a great mid size palm, not a large palm.

Looks good Steve. I was told Kisambo were super fast. Mine did not get the memo. Whatever I’m doing, Kisambo does not approve cuz it’s slow as molasses. Love Arenarius. Underused in gardens for sure. -dale