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Boy, Mike, you’re not kidding, those things are beauties! I got a couple as seedlings, probably 10 to 12 years ago, and they are definitely slower in my part of the world. But they’re green, about waist high. My fervent hope is that they speed up somewhat now that they’re reasonably established. This is just another one of those species where seeds become available on over a course of a few months, and then just absolutely dry up never to be seen again. Ravenea in particular, due to the male/female thing. Krociana, giant, robustior, julietae, all MIA after a brief availability. I guess the lesson is, grab them while you can! Great looking palms, thanks again for sharing!

That center one looks wild for the combination. More like a Jubaea hybrid.Here is an old post on the same hybrid . https://www.palmtalk.org/forum/topic/21211-butia-capitata-x-parajubaea-cocoides/ The other two don’t look much different than the hybrid I planted in Pearland. Most of he pictures of the hybrids at maturity look like Butia with the frond spacing of a Parajubaea

should i attempt to seperate or keek togather. i just potted into a tall container a week ago,single seed,today i noticed a new shoot poping up. my phone of course is charging but ill take pic and post if i can

Thank you! I’ve seen sprouted ones from Hawaii on Amazon also if you want to skip the sprouting process. I’d put them in a pot and bring them inside at night the first year for it to mature enough to be planted in ground.

The temperatures have finally cooled off a fair bit, for now anyway, but I am now at 35 days since the last drop of rain here. It looks like absolutely nothing is coming either going by the latest model runs tonight. That would put me at over 50 consecutive days of no rainfall, during the hottest part of the year... Thames Water (the biggest water supplier in London) has just put another 16 million people under water restrictions. It is now against the law to use a hosepipe. South East Water hit me with a hosepipe ban on Monday. £2,000 fines starting this weekend for evidence of hosepipe usage. Anglian Water, Cambridge Water and South West Water have had restrictions in place for weeks... That's about 21 million people under water restrictions by my reckoning, or 40% of England's population. Even Wales has been hit with restrictions too. I am surprised an official drought announcement hasn't taken place yet for southern England especially. It is as dry as a bone here. All the leaves are starting to fall off the trees. The grass was gone weeks ago. Wildfires ravaging the UK. I'll keep the fire posting to my UK specific thread though...

This is a special palm. Yes, I know it is too close to the house, but I wanted it in my most protected spot since I'll never get another one. I got it from Mr. Schafer, believe it is PJC X BJ. It's been in the ground for at least a couple years and is starting to take off. I covered it in a bad freeze one year. Last year I just wrapped the base with towels and frost cloth. The leaves didn't take any damage. The two palms beside it were supposedly Butia x PJ, but I think they're just Butia. May eventually get taken out.

Saw lots of established queen palms today from Kemah to Bacliff and Texas City. I won't take them for granted this time. They definitely are the benchmark for a strong zone 9. The USDA zone map actually has this part of the bayfront on the cusp and/or just inside zone 10a. It still deeply pains me to see this area look like the Carolinas lol. This one is a few blocks from the boardwalk behind the fish and chips place (not bad btw)

Thank you, Dale I may have gotten the cross mixed up - I don’t recall the mother, and didn’t think to make note of that. I’m hoping that it doesn’t get cooked my heat island with all of the DG. Your’s looks fantastic. Steve

wow, i dont know if the university would approve thermal mass bricks, but we could certainly put more black stone around the palm in winter; its planted near a dark brick wall, which up till now was OK to keep it alive; I think we will have to do more layers of insulating bubble wrap if we dont get approval for the lights. any ideas on how to protect the palm esp the spear leaf area,without outside lght bulbs and thermocubes using the suns energy?? any suggestions would be great, DrZnaturally

This is a big boy. Thick, heavy trunk 25 feet from the soil line to the top of the tallest branches. Dead knock off for a cocos, if it wasn’t so thick at the trunk!

I have three together here in this spot and I have one all by its lonesome somewhere else, it needs to move, and I’ve been trying to figure out where to place the bloke…

Draining the water is not a problem. I have a Cyrtostachys in a bucket with no holes in it, and it grows very well. most of the time the bucket is with some water up to the top. They like to grow in a swamp. (if it is a hot swamp.)

They’re pretty rare over here too.

Great looking palm. Definitely one to plant for future generations. The one at Perth zoo that they cut down to put a set of children’s swings in for a new restaurant area was about that size and planted in the 1920s. It was one of only two mature Jubaea in Western Australia. The other one is at the zoo about 50m away luckily in a garden bed - for now anyway. I remember as a kid looking at it and thinking how big it was. Luckily I germinated a seed from it before they destroyed it.

Dioon edule x argenteum

I have had received some interest in this elegant Malagasy species that I have been growing, and I'll take a little time to present some pictures and comments. Seeds from RPS were sown in July 2008. Good germination, four plants were planted out in April 2014. Here is a pic of the quartet taken a few days ago: I took another pic (in rare full sun) from a different angle with a lawn chair for scale: The pinnate portions of dead leaves tend to break off, leaving numerous very thick leaf bases that exceed in toughness any other genus I can think of at the moment. Here is the largest one. Smaller palms next to the left are Dypsis (still Dypsis) rivularis. For a while, plants of the two species were of identical height. Two larger palms in the distance are Clinostigma exorrhizums. Inflors are two or more feet long, very straight and vertical, emerging from those tough leaf bases. Three of mine have produced them - I'm not sure which sex they are. Here are two that fell off after dying. This species is among my favorites. They do trunk after sufficient time, as I have seen in published photos. But I am in no hurry for that.

Lepidozamia hopei, some good size with trunk is wanted. Thanks

Encephalartos eugene-maraisii female cone emerging. The cone has a guest, protecting it from any undesirable bugs.

This particular one is madagascariensis, although I have the same issue with fenestralis. Funny, a couple hours after I posted this, I got a call from Jeff Markus of Floribunda palms regarding an order I'd placed. So, I asked him about it & he told me that he had the same issue for the first few years with his as well, but to be patient and they'll grow out of it. I'll take Dr. Jeff's word for it. In the meantime, we'll keep helping them along. We are getting some near mature seeds developing, so that's good. I'll take an updated picture of the tree tonight.

In clay soils 10 minutes is for grass and shallow rooted plants, not 36" box trees. This is nearly useless. drippers for 90-120 minutes every other day, never had any success with popups. It might get better if you amend the soil aggressively . I remember the landscaping guys set my auto irrigation to 10 mins and when I started by first garden there, I was having a bad time with my palms in arizona heat. The grass and flower popups were always run for 10-15 minutes but they were on a different station than trees. Trees used 4-5 hrs with a suitable arrangement of drippers. Popups for 10 mins would have killed all my trees in the heat and a few did die. Pop up heads are fine for palms in high drainage sandy soil like in florida for 30 minutes, but they are inadequate, almost useless for palms in clay. Depth of penetration is NOT determined by flow rate, its dominated by time to move vertically through the soil as slow watering continues the penetration is slow in clay regardless of flowrate. Some clay might need less time than others and I have assumed you did not have the impenetratable clay I had in AZ fromlooking at the coarse sand, and stones etc. Sloped ground is an additional complication that couples with low drainage rates to keep the depth dry. And ideally you run irrigation in the dark so post irrigation evaporation is low. Just to give you an idea I ran my irrigation in arizona clay for 5 hrs on larger palms. You waste lots of water running pop ups for a longer time on sloped ground, it mostly just runs off. Drippers are key for watering deeply and not jacking up your water bill with long irrigation schedules. Youve put too much money in to cut the corners, it makes no sense. Popups are great for grass and small plants, just about useless for deeper rooted trees in clay. You can run drippers off a hose with the right attachments(hose irrigation tubes and drippers. I would use 4-6 2 gallon/hr drippers arranged around the tree.

It looks a lot less impressive now. Its crazy that the grass seed butted up that close. Anyway this native Minor underneath a cedar tree and buried in all kinds of overgrowth is throwing some FAT straps. This is like a Where's Waldo and i basically had to do the reverse of the Jim Carrey rhino scene from Ace Ventura to just get this photo and something in there is itchy..

The “heatwave” is helping her with momentum.

There are sprinklers directly in front of it that turn on every day around 6 am for about 20 minutes. Should I start doing twice a day for 10 minutes so it absorbs better and prevents run off?

Ceiba cuts / wounds can heal like this as well.. If you look over " bonsai - ed specimens of Pseudobombax, ..almost always at least.. wounds created by constant pruning seem to seal over w/out issue, giving many of those the rounded, " Turtle Shell " look. Can't speak for Quercus ( Oaks ) but cuts and sunscald wounds the Ficus nitida / microcarpa in the yard experiences seem to heal over pretty well / at a decent pace, though it does take time ( a few years for bigger openings ).. Dry air here most of the year probably helps any exposed " heartwood " on it avoid rotting issues while the outer Cambium layer works it's way to close the gap.