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I just wanted to share this new windmill palm that I planted. It was a 30 gallon that I got from a local nursery. The pot was packed full of roots so it already has a healthy system. Trunk is about 2.5’ and thick. Short fronds and light color. Been in ground about a month in 4 hours of sun each day is all it will get. So far middle frond is growing out. Will be interesting to see what sun grown trachy does in partial sun. So far seems happy.

Last year I collected seeds of a mature Dypsis decipiens that I planted in my parents garden many years ago. The seeds were cleaned and I put them in the refrigerator for a few months, waiting for warmer weather. In december my son Leonard ( who studies agronomics) planted them out in big pots. Maybe 1/4 of them germinated and today he and his sister Lydia transplanted 51 seedlings in individual pots. The first brazilian "manambe palms".

Exactly 6 years later ( july 23 2018) I' ll post pics of the same palm. Maybe other people that showed a pic of there D. decipiens in this thread, can also show how thy grew at there place.

3 Clinostigma Samonense outline this planter, with several pritchardia also in there, just hard to see as they are struggling and slow growing 3 Clinostigma Ponapense with a Samoan dwarf coconut plenty of palms on deck, waiting to be planted as I find the time. Fresh load of mulch ready to go too. Not enough hours in the day. stay posted for more updates, thanks for looking!

Yes, absolutely it has been done. I will PM you .

Yeah, great palms at any size, but I do rather like them at the size in Bubba’s first post. Being able to look ‘at’ that beautiful crown shaft rather that ‘up’ at was a nice focal point in the garden. These are now very tall and majestic with quite the collection of babies at the bases. In the one photo the Carpoxylon’s are the two tall ones on the left. Tim

My sabal uresana has been a medium grower planted in 2012. FIrst pic is late 2013, about 2 1/2 years after planting it as a just going palmate 5 gallon. Today 11 years later it has about 11-12' trunk that with leaf bases on is about 3' thick. Its a sturdy sabal that takes zone 8b and light fertilization and care. First overall: and a closeup of the trunk. Fr scale pavestones are 11" length on oine side and 9" ont he other so 3 of them span 31"

Chrysalidocarpus Sp Ambanja on right and C. ifanadianae on left, this is the pathway into the Madagascar planter: sunset: entrance into the New Cal planter through 2 Kentiopsis Pyriformis: and the other side of the new Cal planter, chambeyronia Houailou:

And here are some random garden updates from this evening: Chrysalidocarpus Hovomantsina hybrid flowering:

Those look like good seeds. Plant them but be careful to avoid "community pot" root entanglements. The best way I've found to do this is use the baggy method and watch the seeds and as soon as one pops a root (from which the leaves will later grow) pull it out, and put it in a liner pot of its own. Then wait for the others and do the same. Or, put each in a liner and water and wait. DON'T wait till they all sprout in the community pot and try to separate them. They ALL DIE. Learned that the hard way . . . 😪

I just harvested the fruits of the delicious butiá (Butia eriospatha), at the point I prefer them, when they start to turn yellow. Taste of childhood! The seeds are easily released from the fiberless and juicy mesocarp in this variety.

I have 2 planted in a pretty shady part of my yard and the petioles on them are quite a bit longer than my others that are more sun exposed. Here's a couple of pics

Yea, its realistically a zone 10 palm as a seedling. As a mature palm? Solidly 9a.

The year long process of building our home is complete (still painting though)! This was a huge job for me as I was doing this all as an Owner Builder. The garden was neglected as I managed workers, dug trenches, installed water lines and anything else that needed to be done. We moved in on July 3 and I’m just now getting back to planting in the garden. Suubi agrees that waking up to this view just doesn’t feel real! I installed stainless cable railings and love how they turned out. Still need to paint the deck, hopefully next week. Morning garden walks have been incredible and it’s a treat to experience this garden in the early morning

Well if any of you decide to spend more time on Oz, and venture further to Adelaide (wine, hiking, food), we have a good palm collection in the Arboretum here, and a good selection at the Botanic Gardens. Happy to offer to catch up and be tour guide. Adelaide is a bit off the beaten track, but smaller and more manageable than the other big cities. My flights were credited as Qantas changed them so much they were not possible (flying to Brisbane at the same time as flying to Sydney, then NC). I am a bit disappointed about not going, would have been my second trip to NC. This trip would have taken me to all the out of the way bits that are hard to do solo.

During the catastrophic freeze of 1990 in CA, many adult queen palms survived temperatures down to 20°F and some below that temperature. 20s continued a few more nights with daytime highs in the 30s! That was the all time worst freeze here. The scarring of the trunks of those palms is very evident today. The surviving Queen palms were initially defoliated and needed a full summer to recuperate.

Any reason to doubt the seeds inside these B. armata fruit would be viable?

UPDATE: A buddy of mine in pest control injected into the trunk and then drenched the crown with 25 gallons of Imidacloprid. At the very least I know the beetles and larvae will not proliferate and I won't have the worry about removing ASAP. I doused the other bizzies in proximity with a Bifenthrin solution in case the beetles look for another host. I will follow up with more crown soakings of Imidacloprid and Bifenthrin. @PalmatierMeg I have transported palms up here a couple times from Homestead. I work with AJM Nursery and Botanics Wholesale. It is part of the way I have been able to have such an extensive collection of bigger trees for my latitude. I brought up a 45 gallon fallaensis for a friend two years ago! It was around $800. That is about the biggest size you could move without equipment and only brute force of a couple of guys. My backyard is now closed for business regarding any big machinery as my entrances are all cut off by landscaping, trees and fences -- A large hand-planted palm is the biggest I would be able to replace it with. Thanks for the ivory soap trick. I will add that to my spring regimen for other susceptible palms. @flplantguy So beautiful, yet so many problems @Las Palmas Norte Yes, you can inject and crown drench with some of the chemicals I mentioned above. There are currently wide-scale attempts across the Mediterranean countries to save the Canary Island Dates, which are in many places, the primary boulevard tree. Municipalities actually install tubing on the sides of the trees so that they can be routinely treated. Unfortunately in SoCal, this is what is going to be required for long term success with CIDP. The destruction of CIDP has been very apparent on our recent trips to Mexico City as well. There are boulevards of beautiful CIDP just being decimated in a couple years time. I was recently in Croatia and it was mentioned on our tours that even on some of the smaller islands and they are putting a lot of funding and planning into saving their CIDP plantings. You would think with this background knowledge on the subject I would have been doing some preventative measures myself, or been more keen to the symptoms like the particular odor, but I have never seen any of the damage firsthand besides an already dead tree, nor had local palm people warn me about it. Even our local nurseries couldn't recommend some who injects palms up here. Perhaps the beetles are not as active up this way or there are just fewer people with susceptible palms to make the business worth while.

Sabal uresana, commonly known as the Sonoran palmetto is a species that is native to the foothills of the Sierra Madre Ocidental in northwestern Mexico. It's habitat is very dry and I had concerns if it would thrive in my not so hot and year round humid subtropical climate ( 1600 mm rain/ year). I have two planted out in the garden. One grew better then the other. The young leaves are blue but the wax is slowly removed by the frequent rains.

With winter in full swing temperatures down to 2 degrees Celsius and widespread frosts my little palms are fairing well a little damage and a few dead ones I was expecting that but you have to zone push with so many new varieties there is bound to be some winners and losers certain varieties I stay away from knowing full well they won’t grow others I keep on trying research and asking around and palm talk certainly helps in choosing what varieties are worth trying and germinating the seeds seems to help with acclimatisation and keeping the wind out the cold draughty winds are not nice to seedlings throw in some wet weather and its touch and go to see who wins and who doesn’t make it time will tell!

Received some W.filifera seed from an Etsy vendor out in California. What's a good way to germinate these?

Years ago I made the hybrid of both species: The dwarf S. microphylla from the caatinga vegetation of the st. Bahia, crossed with the cold hardy Syagrus romanzoffiana from the tablelands of Paraná. I don't know what to expect from it. Maybe a cold hardy and chunkier Syagrus with somewhat silver leaflets???

As summer and the heat arrived to Hungary I will post some pictures of my garden 😁 Palms and plants that I have planted outside: Phoenix canariensis Phoenix Sylvestris Butia Capitata Brahea Armata Sabal Palmetto Trachycarpus fortunei Trachycarpus fortunei x takil Chamaerops humilis Syagrus Romanzoffiana Rhapis excelsa Washingtonia Filifera Cyathea Australis Dicksonia Antarctica Cycas Revoluta (and another type of cycas which I have no idea how is it called) Lots of type of yuccas, agaves, alocasias, colocasias and others 🙂

I offer one plant, 5 gallon size in an 8x8x12 Stuewe citrus pot. It is 4 years and 8 months from seed, and has been outdoors in bright shade for over a year. The stem diameter is about 1 3/8 inches in diameter. It is not fully rooted into this pot, and can remain in this pot for another year. No shipping, you must take delivery at my garden in SF. $50, PM me for details Thanks

Better more recent picture (by Gimli)

I'd say marginal in z9b. Going to see some leaf burn in a cold, humid winter. A frosty 22° with 17 hours below freezing? Smart money says total defoliation at least.

My contribution, planted as a 15gal about 5 years ago,. Pushing 10’ central MA zone 6a.

Place in ground, water.... June 2023 Julv 2024

Just joking. I easily get down to -2 every year. I used to zone push, but now I say push and let die. Hey, that might be a catchy name for a song....

Use the rocks to make landscaping with making garden beds you back fill with good soil find the deep pockets in the rocks that are of good depth use the natural terrain to work with placing rocks to make garden beds it a lot of work but well worth you can raise the garden bed as high as you and it’s just growing a palm in a giant size container add irrigation and you can grow anything guaranteed plant selection is the fun part but the best bit you can enjoy the fruits of your labour watching your palms grow until your heart is content that’s what I do and love it!

Soak seeds Throw in pot Germinate Seriously, they’re so easy to germinate it’s hard not to.

Here's Livistona benthamii at Fairchild Gardens, maybe it will help. The leaf base remnants on the lower trunk look much different than the picture you posted Alberto.

Experienced similar conditions to what@Jim in Los Altos referenced here in Texas with a similar result. Seems like the info tags at big box stores are usually pretty inaccurate. I've seen tags say "not hardy below 30°F" on Ravenea rivularis and orange trees before.

Ohhhh yeah that 1990 freeze! I’d just moved into my rented house up the hill from UCR and I was tired, rolled out on the screened in patio. I think we hit about 17 degrees at UCR; oleanders were frozen.

Pretty easy to germinate what whatever method you choose. The last time I cleaned and soaked the seeds they started germinating while still in the water after just a couple of days! In your climate I would clean the fruit off and soak them in water overnight then sow in a community pot and put outside in the shade. Just water enough to keep the soil moist and not wet. The fruit should be oily if it's truly W. filifera.

Some Houston palms today. highlight is the Bellaire queen 2021 survivor a good size queen that’s survived since the December freeze of 2022 thankfully hurricane beryl didn’t snap these “Tall” robustas for Houston standards

The ones in your hand are DEFINITELY not viable! The ones still on the tree need to mature some more. Fruit should be plump,round and yellow turning to tan when ripe. Fruit will peel off easily,leaving a totally dry white seed. Be patient! There should be some seeds meeting the viable criteria in another month. aztropic Mesa, Arizona

There are so many different kinds of tropical and subtropical flora in the Parque de Málaga , it was amazing! The following pictures are just a few of the many palms and similar type of plants that are on display in this outdoor public garden. Sabal Palmetto Roystonea Oleracea ( Caribbean Royal palm ) Cryosophila Warscewiczii ( Palma De Escoba - " Broom's Palm " ? ) Beaucarnea Recurvata ( ponytail palm ) not a true palm Rhapis Humilis ( Slender Lady Palm ) Dypsis Leptocheilos ( Teddy Bear Palm ) Jubaeophis Caffra ( Pondoland palm ) Yucca elephantipes var. gigantea ( "palm like", but also not a palm ) Hyphaene Coriacea ( the Lala palm )

OK so I finally got a P-Touch Cube label maker. Now preparing labels for crotons, once done with that will move to the gingers, palms and orchids. The only down side so far is can't do double sided, like putting ID on one side, and some other info on the other side like where and when etc...

Take a look over the following chart.. Could be craving some K and / or Mag.

Mule palm

I've been watching those temps that start with an 8! Wouldn't be at all bad to get a bit of a cool down. Even yesterday didn't feel all that hot, compared to recent weeks. I had a 30 minute storm here today, but waiting on the bigger stuff tomorrow and wednesday.

@Phoenikakias that's definitely dry compared to the swamp of Floriduh! I routinely see 90-95F with 50-70% humidity here during the afternoon. Yesterday afternoon was 94F and 73% humidity = heat index of 122F / 50C. It's tough working outside like that, but the Queens love it!

I recall you guys have had more than your fair share of wild fires, just like here. Be safe!

I just went out to move the ladder and this came flying in. At least I got to kill one of them. F#&*!

Can't believe what I'm seeing....is this the COLDEST July in Houston on record? 🤣🤣 One sub-90F day is rare enough but for a whole WEEK? UNBELIEVABLE! 😂 No complains here... grow plants grow grow grow

If anyone is flying into Brisbane, I am available for guided tours! See the best public and private gardens, plus local palmy rainforest...just message me if you are interested...Daryl

If you look over habitat shots of " desert " palms ...like Brahea armata, other Brahea sps from Mexico, Sabal uresana, our regionally - native Palmetto sp. ..and / or both Washingtonia sps over on iNaturalist, they have absolutely no trouble growing in really rocky " soil " at all. If new to the area?, might take a walk among the palm collections up at Boyce Thompson near Superior, and / or Tohono Chul Park / the Desert Museum, down in Tucson, to see the chunky stuff their palms are growing in.. Even palms like Mules ( A much better option than Queen Palms here ), and other arid - adapted palms like Chamarhops, Bismarckia, Nannorrhops, ...and a number of others from the Caribbean... shrug off life in rocky soil. I actually wish my dirt was much rockier than it is, lol.

Listen, I don't understand why you are so negative. You have very little experience growing palms and you post like you know more than those with 20+ years of experience. If you personally think that you only want to plant palms that are 100% cold hardy - that's fine. But I can't understand why you would discourage people who have a different planting philosophy based on a few unfortunate cold winters. Probably 99.5% of members here are willing to "zone push" and you don't seem to care about offending those members with your negativity. The goal is not to plant only palms where nobody has to worry about freezes but to have a backbone of hardy palms that will survive the harshest of conditions and plant other palms that we hope to grow to maturity even though a bad freeze or bad drought might take it out. If we care enough about the palm we'll provide freeze protection when necessary. If one were planting only palms that are marginal and/or a "zone push" that would be a different story. Have you ever looked at Jeremy's ColdHardinessMasterData spreadsheet? Let me give you some data from there. I filtered out all of the data from the state of Texas for ultimate low temperatures BELOW 20° which most people consider the threshold for Syagrus romanzoffiana. Out of the 23 entries there were only 12 deaths and 11 survivors. Even in the RGV the lowest it got here in 02/21 was 22° so these reports are well north of the RGV - from Corpus Christi and further north. There's a lot of hardiness variability within the species - some reports of death at 24°. It happens. I'm sorry that your experience with them is poor. I've read your post previously stating emphatically that Syagrus romanzoffiana is a zone 9b palm. Now you have extended your "planting zone" for them further south to 9b/10a. And your comment regarding "20-year-old queen palms isn't impressive." Do you know how large a queen palm can grow in 20 years? They can get massive quickly with proper care. I personally happen to think that queens are more attractive in that timeframe from 1-15 years anyway. I see a lot of trunking specimens here that tend to get "funky" in their crown at a certain age and their attractiveness begins to decline before they get to 20 years old. Not to mention all of the messy fruit that you have to deal with multiple times a year with mature specimens. The original poster is well within zone 9b and shouldn't be discouraged to plant a queen in his location. Yes, he might experience a rare freeze this winter and kill his palm before it gets established but chances are that he won't. And, like with all palms, protection should be provided during its first winter in the ground if the temperature gets to about 5°F warmer than a mature, established palm can handle (in this case 25° or lower). And if he chooses not to protect it and loses it, replacements are easily available for purchase at a pretty low price.