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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/08/2024 in all areas
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Planted this Washingtonia filifera last spring as a one gallon, left it out during this last winter and this is where we are at now in July. Burned a bit during the winter but it’s a 🚀 I had two planted, lost one but this one has been a tank. Genetics are from a local DFW parent that has been here for over 30 years.6 points
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I found some old paperwork from around 21 years back incredible what was available and how cheap it was just for 100 seedlings you pay that for just one palm nowadays how times have changed it’s interesting to see the names of some of the plants i purchased that are still in the garden today and it was before the internet you actually made phone calls or sent letters.6 points
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Cyphokentia cerifera, Joeys, and more! Floribunda hopes your summer growing season is in full swing. We have a few new items to share on our new July price list, here are some highlights: Cyphokentia cerifera This elusive New Caledonia gem takes patience to grow, but the reward is a rare and spectacular beauty. Seedlings available at $8.00 Johannesteijsmannia magnifica The silver Joey is offered as a first leaf seedling shipped with or without the pot. The most ornamental of the Joey palms with a stunning silver underside to the leaves. Seedlings $25.00 Johannesteijsmannia altifrons Another Joey with an exotic leaf shape and variable forms. First leaf seedling, shipped with or without pot, $15.00 Hydriastele selebica This clustering plumose leafed Hydriastele is one of the true beauties of the genus. Seedlings $8.00 Areca vidaliana This miniature Philippine Areca fits in any tropical garden. Seedling $8.00 Last but not least, Veillonia alba has been resurrected! So, we have moved it out of Cyphophoenix (as it never really belonged) and it now is listed under Veillonia, and available in three sizes. View Price List Thanks and happy planting, Jeff, Su & the Floribunda Crew4 points
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I wanted to show a picture but didn’t have a decent one. As stated earlier, facing North, protected from the back, slight protection from the West but after looking at it more today, it gets more sun than I thought in the late afternoon. Picture looking North. Been in the ground 3 1/2yrs from a large 15G -dale4 points
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One of my H. forsteriana suffered sunburn on the new, emerging frond during the July 4th heatwave. All of my H. belmoreana palms are sheltered by a canopy of Trachycarpus wagnerianus and Cyathea medularis and showed no damage. Paul, I think your palm has other issues besides excessive sun exposure. My sun-burned frond is a uniform light brown color. I would cover this palm with a shade cloth canopy, then consider moving it a few months later. I agree with Billeb, stop fertilizing now, and for the next few fronds. Some of these images for potassium ( K ) deficiency match your foliage. K deficiency is the most common one, as it is water soluble and is leached out by irrigation. I use greensand (glauconite), an organic, slow release source for K. It is very safe, and cannot overdose. Buy some, or come over and I will give you a quantity. Again, stop the complete fertilizer and use only greensand. https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP2733 points
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Paul, I personally would have planted the palm in a morning sun, afternoon shade setting versus the reverse. Some H. belmoreana, even when well established, can sunburn in full afternoon sun even along the coast. Some eventually acclimate over time however. You’re in zone 10b so cold temperatures are not a problem nor are long cool periods for the palm. Cross your fingers and hope that your belmoreana is one of the ones that eventually acclimates to direct sun.3 points
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Last week I stayed at the newly opened Evermore Resort in Orlando and enjoyed some nice exotic plantings all around the property. The resort opened just this Jan 2024, so these palms haven’t lived through any significant cold events yet, but they will be interesting to watch in the upcoming years. The 8 acre man-made swimming lagoon surrounded by multi story buildings definitely creates an ideal microclimate. For me, the dozens of Satakentia liukiuensis on the sandy beaches stole the show. Also observed was a large Chambeyronia macrocarpa var. 'watermelon', Copernicia baileyana(I believe?), Coccothrinax crinita, Hyophorbe lagenicaulis, and Licuala grandis…along with many others. Theres a good chance I missed some other rare palms, as the new $1billion dollar property was quite huge and didn’t have time to walk every sidewalk. I highly recommend a visit.3 points
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Our Sabal minors all survived our zone 4b/5a winter with no heat but lots of mulch. Surprisingly, one is shooting up what is probably the inflorescence. Is it usual for very young plants to bloom? Maybe it thought last winter was a near death experience and is reacting accordingly. These were just planted last year from mail order sources.2 points
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What I say may not be pertinent to H belmoreana grown in No Cal but I’ve had a belmoreana growing in my back yard jungle for nigh on 20 years (from a 1g to 3’ tall). My H forsteriana now has 5’ of clear trunk after it was planted 20 years ago. I know both my Howeas hate my sweltering 6-7 month summers but glory in our dryer cooler winters. Knowing this I planted them under deep canopy in our jungle, esp the belmoreana so it gets little to no sun and the forsteriana as little as possible. Under deep canopy summer temps run 10-15 degrees cooler than ambient air. Somehow this juggling act has made their survival possible these past 20 years. In addition, both palms managed to survive Hurricanes Irma and Ian because of the canopy. The forsteriana lost most of its canopy to Ian and now gets more sun than I’d like but apparently it is large and robust enough to cope with the increased sun. The belmoreana lost little to no canopy but ended up with wind-burned leaflets from Ian’s cat 4/5 winds. These two Howeas are dear to me but require special care here in SWFL and maybe in CA2 points
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Paul, both of my exposed H belmoreana suffered some sunburn on emerging leaves during our late spring/early summer run of warm, dry days. The average UV index was quite high for a while there (relative to our norms for May/June). I planted them from 15g less than a year ago, and they're still settling in. Nearby H forsteriana has been in the ground a couple years (also no trunk), gets lots of water, and only had the slightest browning of some terminal leaflet tips. This palm burned pretty badly its first year when I tried to acclimate it to the sun too quickly. My Sphaeropteris cooperi was also burned during the same period when I allowed it to dry out, and this plant typically goes unscathed without a lot of attention.2 points
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That’s amazing. I have one that is much larger and never shown signs of flowering. It doesn’t get cold enough here to really hurt it but it does push out a few fronds every once in a while that have a bit of brown on the edges . I just trim those off after the fronds open. The fronds get big on these, they are beautiful palms ….and no teeth ! Harrythis will be the last year I have to trim it so close. It is next to a narrow pathway and the fronds , when open, block access! It is now over head for my wife and I. I had no idea how large the fronds get when I planted it 25 years ago as a seedling. My wife gave me grief for planting it there. Over the weekend we were doing yard work and she called me over to the side of the house “ you were right , this palm provides a wonderful canopy “ . Now she can see my vision . As it was growing and I saw how big the fronds get I thought how wonderful it would be to look up at them fully opened over head. I had no idea it would take so long. Harry2 points
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Fascinating Richard. Where are all those palms now? Quite amazing that the diversity of species offered was so high, compared to now...I wouldn't mind a few Dypsis decipiens in 5" pots for $8.50! We need Dr Who.2 points
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@PindoPalm f you can, plant your palm and give regular good drinks of water. If you can’t plant l it, put it in the shade till you can. It’s HOT in AZ as I know you know. Keep us apprised of what happens.2 points
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The silver varieties of Serenoa repens or chamaerops humilis could be an option.2 points
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@Colin1110082 No copper fungicide won't burn the plant. Do not apply it during the middle of the day. Early morning or late evening hours are best (this goes for anything you apply). No H2O2 @ 3% solution won't cause damage . This would be the peroxide you can buy in the pharmacy. DO NOT USE 30% solution! I would apply it once weekly and monitor. Don't apply if you know you're going to get rain within 24hrs (wasteful). @ZPalms If those are the same plants in the ground for 2 seasons I would start over personally. Excavate the hole and remove the existing soil. When replanting use ESPOMA BioTone Starter in the planting hole (a cup or two). I would use a generous amount of compost and manure in the planting hole, and MULCH well (2-3") with a high quality natural mulch like shredded hardwood, pine bark, pine straw, or cypress mulch. DO NOT USE THE "premium" mulches at BB stores that are dyed. Once you've done this, water it in with a mixture of seaweed extract, and blackstrap unsulfured molasses. (I use Blue Planet Nutrients Easy Weed at a rate of 1 scoop per gallon, and 1 TBS per gallon of the UNSULFURED molasses - IT MUST BE UNSULFURED!). Here's the theory on the seaweed and molasses thing: Seaweed is chock-a-block FULL of potassium and natural gibberellin's that will aid in the establishment and growth of any new planting, while the molasses is a sugar source (carbs) that will help jumpstart all of the beneficial bacterial and fungal colonies you've inoculated the soil with by using BioTone starter thereby allowing quick bonding with the newly growing roots of the plant. That's the quick-and-dirty anyway. During this phase, water deeply 2X weekly unless you get more than an inch of rainfall (then you can skip 1 watering). At 1 month begin using a water soluble fertilizer (I like MG Performance Organics all-purpose) in conjunction with the seaweed and molasses. Feed every 2 weeks like this between April - September. Terminate this at the end of September, and begin again the first week of April. I have been doing this now for 5 years to establish all sorts of plantings from Palms, to Bananas, from Heliconia to Petunias. I haven't found anything that doesn't respond well to this aside from maybe succulents. haha If this doesn't work something else is going on in the soil or surrounding area. BTW, I just did this myself after removing about 2 dozen pups from my Namwah and Basjoo's. I saved 1 of the Namwah pups and potted it up to give to a friend of mind down here. @Colin1110082 It could be, perhaps. The only sure way is to sample and submit for testing. That also looks like its been too wet and cool. In cool wet conditions this can happen. Down here Bananas will usually throw what I call "pancake leaves" in February/March. (You know, because when you make pancakes the first 1 or two always are crap) These are the first 2-3 leaves after winter that always look funky. Mind you it's still cool at night in February/Early March. However, after that leaf development is normal. ALL of this to be said - Keep in mind that Bananas are RAPIDLY growing plants and will usually pull out of any ailment as long as they have the Sun, Water, and Fertilizer they need. With Basjoo's in good conditions you should have 1-3 leaves per week emerging. More when they are younger/smaller, and 1-2 per week or so when they get large. If you have less than that either they are establishing, or conditions are suboptimal.2 points
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Roystonea, Queen and Phoenix reclinata leaves were the bane of my existance in my previous garden. I had to cable tie them to the back of my wheelchair and drag them out of the way. Effective in dry weather but after rain the wheels would just spin and I would be going nowhere. Determined not to make the same mistake in the new house, I only planted palms with average leaves....or so I thought. The tiny Teddy Bear I planted morphed into a monster very quickly with some fronds hitting the 5 metre mark. Okay not as bad as former garden but with a postage stamp sized yard there's no manoeuvring room for the tie and drag trick. Everyone knows how averse I am to rampant consumerism so I had to force myself to suffer through the retail experience and buy a cute little chainsaw, with a 30cm 'blade'. I can now slice the big leaves into little sections and hide them under the mulch. Peachy2 points
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Belmoreana is more delicate than the Forsteriana . They can take some morning sun for me, but afternoon sunlight is just too strong for them and many other plants. The black areas on your leaves are not indicitive of sunburn so it might be a drainage issue. Sorry not to be of much help but maybe some of my experience will be useful. Peachy2 points
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I am not sure haven’t been there in a while, call and ask they are fairly knowledgeable and if not they can have the guy who is call you back: Southen Paradise (361) 765-1150 Have you called Palm Buddha in San Antonio he usually has different sizes including some smaller Mules? Palm Buddha (210) 520-6529 Other than the Valley or Houston those are the only other Mule dealers I know of in the region.2 points
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Today my wife and I went for a walk after spending the last three days in the garden. Yesterday was very warm and I think I got a little too much heat while planting my babies. About two blocks down the hill one of the older homes has some Ravenna Rivularis in the front yard and as we walked down the adjacent street , I saw the top of what looked like a Wodyetia ! So we turned down the street and they have a similar wall in the same direction ( north -south , south and east exposure)as the wall in our courtyard. Their Wodyetia was planted right by the wall and looked great. HOPE! Harry2 points
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Thank you for the advice we’re currently moving the rocks out of the way for the palm2 points
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Not expecting huge amounts of rain but some heavy rain and wind gusts to 40knots. That should bring some branches down. It’s been a warm night though. The temp dropped to 12C around 9pm then rose above 15C by 10pm and stayed around 15-17 all night with a peak of almost 17C at 3am. Real warm. There could be a bit of energy in this front then.1 point
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Thanks harry, Yes is a challenge to keep these plants alive through the winter here in Boston. I live near the coast and it recently became a zone 7a. I think is possible if I protect them in the winter. Some people in youtube were able to do it in cold weather. If it doesnt work out I only lose $100.1 point
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Way too hot. In addition to watering/drip emitters/shade cloth, consider giving the palm cool showers. Years ago, Jeff Marcus advised me to give summer showers to the palms in my container garden on the back lanai (covered in 2 layers of shade cloth). This is in rainy, humid SWFL. The point is to try to limit heat damage to foliage of my palms. I suspect what goes in FL applies 10x over in an AZ summer.1 point
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In my yard they love to make their nest under the Latania fronds. A long time ago I knocked one off thinking I could outrun them but I couldn’t. I got stung several times as I was running. Ive learned that if I just leave them alone, that they usually have abandoned the nest by the time the dead frond is ready for removal.1 point
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Never know until bold enough to try1 point
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I'm going to prepare to dig them up soon and remove all the soil. I'll refer back to this when I'm ready to plant. I really appreciate it! Hopefully, this will work out this time! I should get a wheelbarrow because I have quite a bit of soil to transport 😭😭😭😭1 point
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Environmental stress will cause Sabal minor to flower. I’ve seen plants on the verge of death flower and then die, it’s kinda like the last solution to preserve the plant before it inevitably dies. But fortunately for you, your little palm looks incredibly healthy, and thus I would not worry much about this at all.1 point
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My neighbor actually has some queens, and one in particular is dead now because of the pruning. They trimmed the boots and leaves so short that the remaining plume coming out of the top actually broke off in the wind. Dead palm. Only cut the brown stuff.1 point
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If I was convinced that a mule would thrive here long term, I would be more inclined to spend the money. Since I am not convinced that I can keep a mule happy here long term, I may just wait until I see some small (1 to 2 year old) seedlings available online again. My dad drives to swap meets in south Georgia and Florida a few times a year. He drives his truck with a trailer (usually hauling a car to sell) each time. Maybe I should just find a good mule source somewhere there, so I could have my dad haul a few palms back for me. I almost had him do it for a jubaea x butia in Tallahassee. I just didn't trust that the pics showed a true F1 hybrid. Looked too much like plain butia to me.1 point
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