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This pretty little palm, planted right outside my front porch, just put out her first flowers. I think she’s happy to have not been burned back the past couple winters.

Another old crownshaft on a Chrysaltidocarpus prestonianus came off today and the new color never fails to catch my eye.

Chrysalidocarpus Prestonianus Hybrid doing the splits

Planted this Washingtonia filifera last spring as a one gallon, left it out during this last winter and this is where we are at now in July. Burned a bit during the winter but it’s a 🚀 I had two planted, lost one but this one has been a tank. Genetics are from a local DFW parent that has been here for over 30 years.

I found some old paperwork from around 21 years back incredible what was available and how cheap it was just for 100 seedlings you pay that for just one palm nowadays how times have changed it’s interesting to see the names of some of the plants i purchased that are still in the garden today and it was before the internet you actually made phone calls or sent letters.

Finally planed out my Coccothrinax montana and hope it continues to flourish. It joins Coccothrinax borhidiana (super slow!) and C. miraguama in the garden a few years. Who else is growing C. montana and how well has it done for you in your location? C. montana C. miraguama C. borhidiana

Moving along 😍

Hey Jason, thanks again for the Chrysalidocarpus malcomberi photos. You saw this one a few years back before trunking, it has since grown quite a bit. Great color and nice leaf arrangement, although it still looks very similar to C. mananjarensis to me. Tim

Cyphokentia cerifera, Joeys, and more! Floribunda hopes your summer growing season is in full swing. We have a few new items to share on our new July price list, here are some highlights: Cyphokentia cerifera This elusive New Caledonia gem takes patience to grow, but the reward is a rare and spectacular beauty. Seedlings available at $8.00 Johannesteijsmannia magnifica The silver Joey is offered as a first leaf seedling shipped with or without the pot. The most ornamental of the Joey palms with a stunning silver underside to the leaves. Seedlings $25.00 Johannesteijsmannia altifrons Another Joey with an exotic leaf shape and variable forms. First leaf seedling, shipped with or without pot, $15.00 Hydriastele selebica This clustering plumose leafed Hydriastele is one of the true beauties of the genus. Seedlings $8.00 Areca vidaliana This miniature Philippine Areca fits in any tropical garden. Seedling $8.00 Last but not least, Veillonia alba has been resurrected! So, we have moved it out of Cyphophoenix (as it never really belonged) and it now is listed under Veillonia, and available in three sizes. View Price List Thanks and happy planting, Jeff, Su & the Floribunda Crew

I wanted to show a picture but didn’t have a decent one. As stated earlier, facing North, protected from the back, slight protection from the West but after looking at it more today, it gets more sun than I thought in the late afternoon. Picture looking North. Been in the ground 3 1/2yrs from a large 15G -dale

Smashburger cocos this weekend

One of my H. forsteriana suffered sunburn on the new, emerging frond during the July 4th heatwave. All of my H. belmoreana palms are sheltered by a canopy of Trachycarpus wagnerianus and Cyathea medularis and showed no damage. Paul, I think your palm has other issues besides excessive sun exposure. My sun-burned frond is a uniform light brown color. I would cover this palm with a shade cloth canopy, then consider moving it a few months later. I agree with Billeb, stop fertilizing now, and for the next few fronds. Some of these images for potassium ( K ) deficiency match your foliage. K deficiency is the most common one, as it is water soluble and is leached out by irrigation. I use greensand (glauconite), an organic, slow release source for K. It is very safe, and cannot overdose. Buy some, or come over and I will give you a quantity. Again, stop the complete fertilizer and use only greensand. https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP273

Paul, I personally would have planted the palm in a morning sun, afternoon shade setting versus the reverse. Some H. belmoreana, even when well established, can sunburn in full afternoon sun even along the coast. Some eventually acclimate over time however. You’re in zone 10b so cold temperatures are not a problem nor are long cool periods for the palm. Cross your fingers and hope that your belmoreana is one of the ones that eventually acclimates to direct sun.

My giant Roystonea reemphasized how ginormous its leaves are, apparently in response to this thread.

Last week I stayed at the newly opened Evermore Resort in Orlando and enjoyed some nice exotic plantings all around the property. The resort opened just this Jan 2024, so these palms haven’t lived through any significant cold events yet, but they will be interesting to watch in the upcoming years. The 8 acre man-made swimming lagoon surrounded by multi story buildings definitely creates an ideal microclimate. For me, the dozens of Satakentia liukiuensis on the sandy beaches stole the show. Also observed was a large Chambeyronia macrocarpa var. 'watermelon', Copernicia baileyana(I believe?), Coccothrinax crinita, Hyophorbe lagenicaulis, and Licuala grandis…along with many others. Theres a good chance I missed some other rare palms, as the new $1billion dollar property was quite huge and didn’t have time to walk every sidewalk. I highly recommend a visit.

Our Sabal minors all survived our zone 4b/5a winter with no heat but lots of mulch. Surprisingly, one is shooting up what is probably the inflorescence. Is it usual for very young plants to bloom? Maybe it thought last winter was a near death experience and is reacting accordingly. These were just planted last year from mail order sources.

What I say may not be pertinent to H belmoreana grown in No Cal but I’ve had a belmoreana growing in my back yard jungle for nigh on 20 years (from a 1g to 3’ tall). My H forsteriana now has 5’ of clear trunk after it was planted 20 years ago. I know both my Howeas hate my sweltering 6-7 month summers but glory in our dryer cooler winters. Knowing this I planted them under deep canopy in our jungle, esp the belmoreana so it gets little to no sun and the forsteriana as little as possible. Under deep canopy summer temps run 10-15 degrees cooler than ambient air. Somehow this juggling act has made their survival possible these past 20 years. In addition, both palms managed to survive Hurricanes Irma and Ian because of the canopy. The forsteriana lost most of its canopy to Ian and now gets more sun than I’d like but apparently it is large and robust enough to cope with the increased sun. The belmoreana lost little to no canopy but ended up with wind-burned leaflets from Ian’s cat 4/5 winds. These two Howeas are dear to me but require special care here in SWFL and maybe in CA

Wow, Jason, that is something to aspire to! Beautiful palm! Okay, here are my 2 little C. ifanadianae. #1 is just under 6 ft. overall height, while #2 is over 7 ft. height. No indication of any color, and no trunk. When will they begin trunking? I have no clue -- wild guess? Another 2-3 years?

Paul, both of my exposed H belmoreana suffered some sunburn on emerging leaves during our late spring/early summer run of warm, dry days. The average UV index was quite high for a while there (relative to our norms for May/June). I planted them from 15g less than a year ago, and they're still settling in. Nearby H forsteriana has been in the ground a couple years (also no trunk), gets lots of water, and only had the slightest browning of some terminal leaflet tips. This palm burned pretty badly its first year when I tried to acclimate it to the sun too quickly. My Sphaeropteris cooperi was also burned during the same period when I allowed it to dry out, and this plant typically goes unscathed without a lot of attention.

Cluster of old Ptychosperma sanderianum at ANSG:

That’s amazing. I have one that is much larger and never shown signs of flowering. It doesn’t get cold enough here to really hurt it but it does push out a few fronds every once in a while that have a bit of brown on the edges . I just trim those off after the fronds open. The fronds get big on these, they are beautiful palms ….and no teeth ! Harrythis will be the last year I have to trim it so close. It is next to a narrow pathway and the fronds , when open, block access! It is now over head for my wife and I. I had no idea how large the fronds get when I planted it 25 years ago as a seedling. My wife gave me grief for planting it there. Over the weekend we were doing yard work and she called me over to the side of the house “ you were right , this palm provides a wonderful canopy “ . Now she can see my vision . As it was growing and I saw how big the fronds get I thought how wonderful it would be to look up at them fully opened over head. I had no idea it would take so long. Harry

Fascinating Richard. Where are all those palms now? Quite amazing that the diversity of species offered was so high, compared to now...I wouldn't mind a few Dypsis decipiens in 5" pots for $8.50! We need Dr Who.

@PindoPalm f you can, plant your palm and give regular good drinks of water. If you can’t plant l it, put it in the shade till you can. It’s HOT in AZ as I know you know. Keep us apprised of what happens.

The silver varieties of Serenoa repens or chamaerops humilis could be an option.

@Colin1110082 No copper fungicide won't burn the plant. Do not apply it during the middle of the day. Early morning or late evening hours are best (this goes for anything you apply). No H2O2 @ 3% solution won't cause damage . This would be the peroxide you can buy in the pharmacy. DO NOT USE 30% solution! I would apply it once weekly and monitor. Don't apply if you know you're going to get rain within 24hrs (wasteful). @ZPalms If those are the same plants in the ground for 2 seasons I would start over personally. Excavate the hole and remove the existing soil. When replanting use ESPOMA BioTone Starter in the planting hole (a cup or two). I would use a generous amount of compost and manure in the planting hole, and MULCH well (2-3") with a high quality natural mulch like shredded hardwood, pine bark, pine straw, or cypress mulch. DO NOT USE THE "premium" mulches at BB stores that are dyed. Once you've done this, water it in with a mixture of seaweed extract, and blackstrap unsulfured molasses. (I use Blue Planet Nutrients Easy Weed at a rate of 1 scoop per gallon, and 1 TBS per gallon of the UNSULFURED molasses - IT MUST BE UNSULFURED!). Here's the theory on the seaweed and molasses thing: Seaweed is chock-a-block FULL of potassium and natural gibberellin's that will aid in the establishment and growth of any new planting, while the molasses is a sugar source (carbs) that will help jumpstart all of the beneficial bacterial and fungal colonies you've inoculated the soil with by using BioTone starter thereby allowing quick bonding with the newly growing roots of the plant. That's the quick-and-dirty anyway. During this phase, water deeply 2X weekly unless you get more than an inch of rainfall (then you can skip 1 watering). At 1 month begin using a water soluble fertilizer (I like MG Performance Organics all-purpose) in conjunction with the seaweed and molasses. Feed every 2 weeks like this between April - September. Terminate this at the end of September, and begin again the first week of April. I have been doing this now for 5 years to establish all sorts of plantings from Palms, to Bananas, from Heliconia to Petunias. I haven't found anything that doesn't respond well to this aside from maybe succulents. haha If this doesn't work something else is going on in the soil or surrounding area. BTW, I just did this myself after removing about 2 dozen pups from my Namwah and Basjoo's. I saved 1 of the Namwah pups and potted it up to give to a friend of mind down here. @Colin1110082 It could be, perhaps. The only sure way is to sample and submit for testing. That also looks like its been too wet and cool. In cool wet conditions this can happen. Down here Bananas will usually throw what I call "pancake leaves" in February/March. (You know, because when you make pancakes the first 1 or two always are crap) These are the first 2-3 leaves after winter that always look funky. Mind you it's still cool at night in February/Early March. However, after that leaf development is normal. ALL of this to be said - Keep in mind that Bananas are RAPIDLY growing plants and will usually pull out of any ailment as long as they have the Sun, Water, and Fertilizer they need. With Basjoo's in good conditions you should have 1-3 leaves per week emerging. More when they are younger/smaller, and 1-2 per week or so when they get large. If you have less than that either they are establishing, or conditions are suboptimal.

Roystonea, Queen and Phoenix reclinata leaves were the bane of my existance in my previous garden. I had to cable tie them to the back of my wheelchair and drag them out of the way. Effective in dry weather but after rain the wheels would just spin and I would be going nowhere. Determined not to make the same mistake in the new house, I only planted palms with average leaves....or so I thought. The tiny Teddy Bear I planted morphed into a monster very quickly with some fronds hitting the 5 metre mark. Okay not as bad as former garden but with a postage stamp sized yard there's no manoeuvring room for the tie and drag trick. Everyone knows how averse I am to rampant consumerism so I had to force myself to suffer through the retail experience and buy a cute little chainsaw, with a 30cm 'blade'. I can now slice the big leaves into little sections and hide them under the mulch. Peachy

Belmoreana is more delicate than the Forsteriana . They can take some morning sun for me, but afternoon sunlight is just too strong for them and many other plants. The black areas on your leaves are not indicitive of sunburn so it might be a drainage issue. Sorry not to be of much help but maybe some of my experience will be useful. Peachy

I am not sure haven’t been there in a while, call and ask they are fairly knowledgeable and if not they can have the guy who is call you back: Southen Paradise (361) 765-1150 Have you called Palm Buddha in San Antonio he usually has different sizes including some smaller Mules? Palm Buddha (210) 520-6529 Other than the Valley or Houston those are the only other Mule dealers I know of in the region.

Today my wife and I went for a walk after spending the last three days in the garden. Yesterday was very warm and I think I got a little too much heat while planting my babies. About two blocks down the hill one of the older homes has some Ravenna Rivularis in the front yard and as we walked down the adjacent street , I saw the top of what looked like a Wodyetia ! So we turned down the street and they have a similar wall in the same direction ( north -south , south and east exposure)as the wall in our courtyard. Their Wodyetia was planted right by the wall and looked great. HOPE! Harry

Thank you for the advice we’re currently moving the rocks out of the way for the palm

A couple pics from today’s morning garden walk. Mowing the grass today! This is 2 weeks of grass growth here on the Hamakua Coast!

Morning garden walk with Suubi at the new house and these Chrysalidocarpus Sp Mayotte hybrids caught my eye.

Walking around the neighborhood and this guy jumped out, never seen him before.. variegated Sabal

For me, nothing comes close to Roystonea!

Silver sago seeds $3 each. 200 available Save yourself from the hassle and time of USDA import permits, potential seizure of seeds and high shipping costs. Imported from RPS. Phytocertified and ready to ship! Accept Zelle or paypal. Message me for orders. Min order: 3 Shipping will be calculated with each order (generally around $3-$6 for an order of 5-15 seeds depending on where you're located.) US ONLY _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I'm getting roughly an 80% germination rate but that's only after a month. It will hopefully increase to 100% in the coming weeks. If for some reason you're seeds aren't germinating, let me know and we'll figure it out. Here are a few next to other green palms. You can already see the blue color even at a young age.

The ones I saw were at Palm Professionals in Sugarland but that was back in December. No idea if they still have any or if the price has gone up. I noticed all the garden centers raised prices in late winter ahead of the spring rush.

Forecast for tomorrow is 11Cmin to 21C max and thunderstorms. Not bad for the coldest part of July.

Paul, I wouldn’t say “easily take full sun”. I’d say can acclimate to full sun. I have a H. Belmoreana that was purchased as a pretty good sized 15G and I live 1 mile from the ocean in Huntington Beach. It definitely burned when I planted it out and mine is facing North with protection from my house to the south and protected to the West from a Bismarckia. It gets overhead sun and some sun from the East…..it still took a few seasons to acclimate. It looks much better now. Yours actually looks like some of the leafs have cold damage/spotting instead of leaf burn. Is it possible it’s in too wet of an area? It’s not necessary to fertilize a lot either. At the most, PalmGain needs to be applied every couple months. I used to apply only 3 times a year with great results. -dale

A bit of uncharacteristic negativity from the crew here...must have been a bad moon! I reckon you can have your cake and eat it too. Firstly, the palms will be fine, Syagrus are tough as nails, probably don't prune them again, as the tribe mentioned above, they look nice with a big full crown. No need to dig any soil or roots out though. Building a small wall, as @Patrick mentioned is a sensible solution, and much less work, would only need to be a foot high! If the top level was similar to the deck on the left, it would look pretty cool, stone or old timber to match the fence. Fill the new bed with sharp draining soil mix and plant heaps of bromeliads, and similar hardy epiphytes, maybe some smaller cordylines, Dendrobium speciosum would grow well there, mounted on a rock, etc. Put some trellis wires on the fence and grow some hardy climbers at the back of the bed, Epidendrums, Hibbertia scandens. Attach some Tillandsias and Platycerium to the fence. I reckon you could even get some small palms going in there with enough water, try groups of Chamaedorea plumosa, C radicalis, very tough plants. You could rig up some temporary shade cloth or similar while the understory is getting established in your hot summer climate, maybe. Water the hell out it all, and the palms would love it, so would the other plants, just keep the drainage sharp - you could probably even leave the rock mulch and put new soil over. There you go, easy. Go crazy with it and enjoy!

A sizzlin Sunday, though not quite as hot as it has been ( 109F At 2:37PM ) Call it a break or just regrouping but tomorrow and Tuesday, the dial gets cranked up a notch or two. That said, the end of this leg of 112+ heat / return of monsoon season level moisture may be in sight as we head through the week ahead as the center of the 4C High drifts away from the AZ / CA border, ending up more toward a better position up around the 4 corners, allowing moisture to return to the state, and likely cutting temps back to the " hot ..but not nuke level heat.. " category. While the sizzle fest may simmer down a touch, Dew Points / PWATs do rise however ...so another round of steam bath stickiness is likely on the way by next weekend. As is usually the case when the pattern transitions back to active this time of year, Rim / Whites / Tucson and the Borderlands in far S and S.E. AZ will see storm chances increase first ...before we might see them expand up this way/ into Western / N. Western AZ, ..if they do at all. Not all that enthused with rainfall thoughts from all of the models over the last week but, ..we'll see what happens.. That said, TS activity looks to pick up in the E. Pac. a bit.. Nothing in the offering for us since what systems might form stay well out to sea, but, ...it's something, and might help keep the 4C high from trying to return for another spin on top of AZ for a bit, and maybe send some remnant moisture our way via the Sierra Madre Occidental / Gulf of CA.. Gotta start somewhere.

I'm also growing a pindo myself,still in a pot. Location is such that the container receives no direct sunlight cast upon it,and plant still has zero burn so far,this year. As they say, Location, Location, Location... 😄 aztropic Mesa, Arizona

I think it's smart to start small with mules because they grow so fast. I bought this one as a strap-leaf seedling in 2018 and it grew to this size in two years in far west San Antonio. It survived 9°F unprotected in February 2021 after a trunk cut and regrew to this size by the end of 2021. My larger mule never saw leaf damage in 7 years until its death in 2/21. Unless you're in the hill country I would definitely try one or two.

Yes,it is. Also having your palm in a fully exposed black nursery container is probably also cooking the roots. Have you ever put your hand against the sun side of that container at noon? Ouch! You have 3 choices that could help your palm survive the summer. 1. Shield that existing pot from any direct sun exposure by wrapping, or by putting that pot into an even bigger one to shield it. 2. 'plant' the existing pot into the ground. It will still be easy to move the plant later on if need be. 3. Plant the tree in the ground already! This is your best option to establish a healthy tree that will grow on for many years in our area. aztropic Mesa, Arizona

I haven't really looked at this genus either but will ask some friends about growing them outdoors in this area. On a different note, this Encyclia hanburyi started opening the flowers from the bottom of the inflorescence but the lower flowers never completely opened. It is even more apparent as the upper new flowers are opening as they should. It is one of the largest spikes I've ever had on this in several years of growing this specimen.

I believe we have lift off! 🤠

Good to know this is a success. You worked very hard to get this home and I look forward to seeing an updated picture. Butia are beautiful palms . Harry

I planted a 3 gallon in 2016, a 30 gallon in 2017 and a b&b in 2018. Now they are almost at the same height.