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Hello Everyone, Thank you for some of the positive messages, i am thankful for all of them. My name is Joao Santos Costa, i am from Portugal and i am the new responsible for the management and administration of Palmpedia and connected resources. Palmpedia as been over the years a fundamental and unavoidable tool, an endless source of information to the palm growing hobby. I am forever thankful to Dean, Ed Vaile, and all people who have contributed immensely to the creation of this incredible resource. My path with palms started more than ten years ago, when i wanted to create a big garden around my former residence in Lisbon, and wanted to have some privacy from all the neighbours, together with the perpetual feeling of evasion and "vacations feeling" every-time i would step home. Likewise many of you the inicial humble idea of planting a few palms turned out to be an incurable addiction, that month after month started to influence where we would spend the weekends, to where we would go for vacations. From a nice garden the things escalated quickly and i ended up with a full size jungle with dozens of mature specimens, I got hooked. I loved every bit of the new lifestyle, this garden could provide, so did my children and my wife. From late night barbecues, to tiki jacuzzi parties, to bird watching with my toddler, was a fantastic experience that forever change my mindset on the "art of living". Professionally, i have responsibilities in a group of companies with ranging activities from managing real estate portfolios, to construction and hospitality businesses. Few years ago, i started the acquisition of multiple agricultural investments and have turned my hobby into a full size business operation. Currently we have 3 state of the art productions facilities, manufactured entirely in double glaze polycarbonate, biomass heating, evaporative cooling, and full climate control, where we are fully devoted to the germination of palm trees. We are also establishing plantations in Sao Tome and Principe, and Mauritius for the more tropical varieties. As of today we hold several tens of thousands of 2-3 year old palm seedlings of around 237 varieties and growing. I am focused in creating top quality plants. Our aim is to introduce recently discovered or unusual palms in the ornamental market, after all i guess we are all tired of finding the same options for sale in the conventional garden center! I have quite ambitious plan for the new Palmpedia, and i hope to have you all along for the journey, but i also understand that i will not be able to be a very consensual and accommodate everyone requests, but i will try! In what concerns the future of Palmpedia, our plan is to keep the entire structure in the wiki platform like was originally intended and allow edition, inputs, and submission of pictures and content. We are currently working in the log in and users platform to allow people to sign in and edit the content of the pages, i believe in the next few days will be operational. Also i understand that there are several scientific revisions that need update, and we are currently compiling with the help of fellow forum members the list of updates needed to perform. So if you have a suggestion or topic requiring update we are thankful to receive them by email to info@palmpedia.com. Palmpedia will remain a free and open "go to place" for palm information, independently where you are in the globe. Regarding our plans on the comercial front. We are currently testing the new online marketplace, that will be made available on the website. This will be a multi vendor online shop, (much like amazon) and will allow verified nurseries, brands, individual growers, and hobbyists to sell their palms, and their seedlings. With a very simple and user friendly platform will allow every nursery to have equitable online exposition and a simplified online sales spot. If you know a nursery let them know that we are working in order they can soon list their palms and exotics stock in the world leading marketplace we are creating. I strongly believe in this model because because is the only way to provide a truly global service without the limitations of phytosanitary regulations. In other words, depending on the place you are and will access the online shop, the assortment you see available to purchase is within your geographic range to be delivered without need of phytosanitary certificate. I am always available at info@palmpedia.com I hope to have all of you along, Best Regards, Joao9 points
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Ill start with the non-palms For warning I wass out of town so nothing was protected. This elephant ear kicked it as expected Gwbop is toast, good thing they're cheap. Meyer lemon is still out, no new growth Persian lime is doing great Ok now palms, The spear pulled on the queen, golfball for size. Pygmy dates are done for. The only hope was a little bit of green robusta #1 did ok, i just marked it. Robusta 2 is dead Livistona is ok too so are her nieces and nephews3 points
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I hate to say it but while Taylor forms evidently are incredibly hardy with large specimens growing in Raleigh for decades , they didn't handle my 6F very well . I have 3 Taylor Forms and they all look like the palm on the left . The palm on the right is a stiffer fronded form that looks much better . Wow , what a difference ! Will My Nainital did OK . Trachycarpus princeps ( green form ) had some issues . I don't know if it can handle 6F with damage or the microclimate is really good , but it has green spears and should do well in the spring . The more exposed fronds took a lot of damage whereas the lower fronds near the house are perfect . What a difference a microclimate makes .2 points
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Thought I'd share a few pics of my indoor 7a winterizing palms. I raise mainly Trachycarpus and the colder hardy Sabal minors and have probably 50 pots in my greenhouse and that many inside. Here is a few if my lesser cold hardy palms. Just a few phoenix from seed, my butia pindo, a couple Trachycarpus, Bald Head Island Palmetto, a container of Sabal Louisiana, Bismarckia Nobilis, and W. Robusta, s. Blackburniana. I had the Blackburniana in my greenhouse but when we had the big Christmas freeze, I brought them inside. I paid a little bit for those. Sorry looks like some came in upside down.2 points
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If you are curious, try to see if it grows back. But I agree with @mnorell that this palm had pre-existing problems. It looks stunted and neglected. How long have you kept it in that pot? How often do you water/feed it (majesties are water/fertilizer hogs)? And they make lousy potted plants in the long run. They are also plentiful and cheap. That said, you may want to invest in a newer, healthier palm. Majesties are at their best looking before they trunk.2 points
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Looks like you already had a serious problem with this palm (the dark grey dry-wood and rust-colored areas). The snap-off area is only the zone that is white in color, about half of the surface area. I would pour some peroxide over that ruddy area and also make sure there isn't something actively affecting the health of the plant. Otherwise your apical meristem does look to be intact and it should regrow (though you will always see damage there). But is there a way you can put that palm into the ground? It looks desperately in need. Ravenea are river-dwellers and want lots of water and fertilizer...also remember that the root-initiation-zone of palms (at the base of the trunk) in California needs to be continuously covered by soil. Since it is the area where palms grow new roots, the dry atmosphere will stop them from forming, most likely leaving you with a very unstable and unhealthy palm over time.2 points
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A parting site at the Kona Airport. I noticed the unusual curvature of the leaves first then as I got closer I could see it has a leaning crown. Reminded me of the common Howea forsteriana leaning crown syndrome. In that I have not seen this occur with Pritchardia before, I thought it worth asking if this is often seen here and what the cause is? Adjacent one looks fine, showing the underside with fruit of the healthy specimen. A side note, I didn't take photos of the entryway of a resort north of Kona that we drove in to visit the beach. It was pretty sad to see the drive lined with Washingtonia robusta and coconuts at the terminus ends of the long road entrance. Why an invasive when they could have used so many different Pritchardia instead. On the coconuts, I will parrot what Jeff Marcus commented when showing his Beccariophoenix alfredii, madagascarensis, and fenestralis, they give the look while eliminating the need to continually neuter the plants to avoid dropping coconut on human syndrome. Ahhh but that requires thinking out of the 📦.2 points
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Rocks are mulch. There is organic mulching like wood chips and there is mineral mulching like gravel and such. From my experience young palms don't like rocky mulch as much as bigger ones do. I guess that's because before they've established some strong trunk it restricts their ability to do so at least a bit. Also it really looks like palms that come from rocky habitats can handle rocks even at a young age better than other palms. I have a Lava based bed where I grow mostly Californian/Mexican plants. Lava is a regional natural resource here and readily available because of it. It's radiating heat at night because of it's dark colour and it's quite porous which still provides good air exchange. Sabal uresana seems to be a palm that likes this kind of mulching already at a young age:2 points
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I really appreciate these reply posts suggestions and input. It will take me some time to digest all you shared. I hope I can source a few of the important tall and shade varieties as larger crated or barefoot but I haven't investigated what nurseries exist in the Peloponnesian area. It would be interesting if I could bring several bare root Rhapidophyllum histrix pups from here, likely they would do well there. Someone mentioned baby palms.eu as a source for mail order palms/seedlings who are in Spain. I enquired of them and they seems to feel shipping to me would not be a problem, and as an estimate a 30 kilo box holding several plants would cost about 150 Euros. Hopefully I can find things closer to Katakolo and for now I'm just in the planning stage and one house and it's concrete fence walls removed before I can plant any specimens. Also, I really should have installed new fence walls on three sides leaving one end open for construction of a home that approval to build may take a year or more to have approved. Anyway, it nice that palm and tropicals folks are nice there in Europe just as they are here. I really appreciate you folks posting with palm talk!2 points
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You would be quite spot on, were there not those darned imported pests. Truth is that the planned garden will be located in south western coastal mainland, which is blessed with a very subtropical climate, moister climate, less heat in summer, less cold in winter, relatively high max temps almost every day during winter and considerably less northern wind. An entirely different world from the eastern coast in same latitude. All this because the highest montane massive does not run across the country from east to the west but rather from north to south. Therefore I am bound to recommend only crownshafted palms, which are less susceptible to an atrack by rpw and Paysandisia, plus some non crownshafted spp which have proven hardy to those pests, such as Arenga and Caryota, and plenty of (sub)tropical fruiting trees. Unless one desires to inhale almost year around pesticides, because biological treatment for extensive palm collections is outrageously expensive, difficult and during summer not entirely effective.2 points
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Here in the west of Australia it’s often the opposite of the east coast. It’s not quite as simple as that, but a La Niña event in the east brings dry to the west. An El Niño in the east will likely bring wet to the west, especially if we have a favourable Indian Ocean dipole and the Southern Annular Mode lines up right. So right now in the west it’s as dry as a chip, but I’m not complaining as my irrigation works well. We did have extreme cold last winter that most likely was a record for maybe 50 years. So far summer has been mild with no heatwaves like last year. I think summer record heat can transform into winter record cold. I’m hoping we have a mild average non eventful winter this time round. In regards to the Auckland flooding, I hope it calms down over there soon and people can start the recovery process.2 points
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Phoenix looks more like dactylifera or a tall sylvestris. The seedlings are obviously palmate so more likely Sabal.2 points
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Speaking from my former sugar cane lot on the rainy windward side of the Big Island, my clayey volcanic soil is pretty acid and, yes, I have had many instances of boron deficiency over the 10-14 years I have been growing palms here. Other local palmers in residential districts have also. I use nutricote and a pinch of boron crystals in those cases. Most recover after a while, even some that don't get treated. In my case (former sugar cane land), I hypothesize that the sugar cane used up many of the desired nutrients during the plantation era.2 points
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You have quite a good microclimate being on a peninsula. I agree that you should plant the palms and trees you intend to use as canopy first. Since you have sandy soil it might be worth adding in loads of mulch and over the years you can add more and more to improve the soil. I would add royal palms as a large trunking stand out palm, queen palms also grow pretty fast and have a good sized canopy. You could add in phoenix canariensis and Washingtonia robusta and filifera but they are probably already very common in the area. I would go for phoenix dactylifera (the true date palm), phoenix theophrasti, phoenix rupicola, phoenix Sylvesteris, phoenix reclinata, phoenix roebelenii and phoenix loureiroi. Bismarckia would also made a nice stand out palm.Chrysalidocarpus decaryi, ambositrae, baronii, onilahensis should be fine there. Some of the arenga palms will probably do well there. For understory palms I'd use the chamedorea genus.Cryosophila warscewiczii, chambeyronia macrocarpa, chambeyronia oliviformis, Chambeyronia lepidota and Wallichia as some nice rarer palms. I'd also go with the whole archontophoenix genus, some big archontophoenix Alexandrae in full sun and under a light canopy archontophoenix cunninghamiana, myolensis, purperea, Maxima and tuckeri. When the canopy has really grown in you might be able to grow Rhopalostylis sapida and Rhopalostylis baueri in lots of shade. Livistona should do pretty well there too and sabals.Acoelorraphe wrigthii and Allagoptera I think will be fine. Howea belmoreana and howea forsteriana need to be in the shade I'd also put those under denser pat's of the canopy. If you want a coconut look a like since Cocos nucifera won't grow there try Beccariophoenix alfredii or Jubaeopsis caffra. Since you have sandy soil I'd try and take advantage of that and have a large arid section with dessert plants such as aloes, cacti agaves, yuccas and arid shrubs. I would then have a Mediterranean area full of Mediterranean plants lots of flowers ect and maybe a few palms too. Finally for the largest section I'd have a full sun tropical biome area full of palms and exotics and then a shaded section at the back with the same things but can't handle full sun such as bromeliads, monstera deliciosa, colocasias, caladiums, chamedorea ect. Trees such as eucalyptus, jacaranda mimosifolia, Delonix regia and Araucaria heterophylla would do well there. The arid and Mediterranean sections would reduce watering so you can make sure the ones in the tropical style section get plenty of water. Bougainvillea is also something I'd recommend growing there. Of course there's plenty more things you could do but those are just a few ideas. @Phoenikakiasprobably knows more about what palms and plants would do well in you're climate.2 points
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I'm always interested in trying new winter flowering plants and while this isn't exactly the most imposing specimen (yet), I noticed it was flowering for the first time today. This one is two years from seed and another two of the same age are also flowering. It was fortunately a tiny indoor seedling during Palmageddon but it suffered moderate damage during last winter's lengthy two-night freeze. I believe these can resprout from the base after fires which I'm hoping holds true in the event of a more serious freeze. This is also one of the many plants which only seem to grow for a few months of the year in spring and autumn for me, and really doesn't enjoy Houston summers when it slowly loses leaves and outer branches. Anyone else have any experience with this one or Halleria elliptica (which I'd love to find)?1 point
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I remember it well. Four days of temps in the mid twenties F and it was carnage. Anyone remember?1 point
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After the 6F I had on December 24th , I've been watching as to how well my various palms faired , and after about 1 month I believe the winner here is my Sabal palmetto . Below is a picture with all three visible . On the right is the Palmetto with just a little tip burn , and to the left of it is the Birmy with a little more tip burn , and the Trachy to the the left of that one shows shriveled fronds and severely burned fronds . It really looks like crap . I'll fertilize it in May and water it well in warm weather which should spurt a lot of new growth over the summer . Further left is a totally unfazed Minor and to the left of that is another Palmetto ( Tifton Hardy ) with more burn than the Palmetto to the far right . As a side note you can see a small tree between the Birmingham and the Trachy . That is a Manihot grahamii that I think has matured enough after 4 mild winters when the trunk didn't die back to close to the ground , but growth started in the spring about 7 feet up on the trunk . That plant has been a herbaceous perennial until the last 4 mild winters . That would be crazy if the trunk has matured enough to handle 6F and I end up with a hardy small tree that lives for many years here ! Will I just found this receipt today for that HC Palmetto that handles 6F so well . They said that they get their Palmettos from northern Florida sources . It's a good one I believe . Some people in the vicinity might want to try out their HC Palmettos .1 point
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I agree with you wholeheartedly on the merits of choosing quality over expedience, and there should be no reason Pritchardia couldn't (and shouldn't) be chosen over Washingtonia in Hawai'i, in areas where there is sufficient rainfall or irrigation. I believe most of the Hawai'ian Pritchardia are somewhat slow (though I remember P. beccariana was moderately fast for me in Los Angeles), but P. pacifica is a surprisingly fast grower--P. thurstonii not far behind it--and actually both are used pretty frequently in Hawai'i at resorts and other commercial buildings. I'm sure whoever was responsible for the area outside the resort was doing the quick-and-cheap thing. Since the majority of U.S. visitors to Hawai'i are Californians, it seems odd to me that anyone would emphasize Washingtonia. I'm also guessing that Jeff may be speaking a bit hypothetically, or wistfully in an idealistic way, since he knows firsthand how slow it is to get a Beccariophoenix up and in the same game as the quick-growing coconuts. It seems to me that the real advantage with Beccariophoenix that warrants growing at a commercial scale is in cold-hardiness, and their application would be primarily in SoCal and Central Florida...and I believe Eric Schmidt and others have posted photos on this forum of them being planted in various public/highway areas in the Orlando area now. Luckily there are many Palm Society folks like us who are dedicated to planting all the wonderful slow stuff, even if we may not be around when they get big (and I love Jubaea and Attalea at any size!). It's sad to me that landscape architects, designers and contractors (or their clients) rarely are willing to take a long-term approach, as they could be interplanting small specimens of long-throw species like Coccothrinax argentata or Pseudophoenix amidst queens or other fast-growing, generally short-lived species. Such a system gives initial (if overfamiliar) enjoyment, but even greater long-term effect, long after those queen palms are gone. Of course many of us use that approach in our own landscapes. But as you say we live in a 'taco bell' world and the customer always seems to want "quick, now, done." Sad.1 point
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Yes at least when it comes to the looks. T. fortuneis in the Mediterranean or Southern California always look a bit wimpy. The seem to do the best in the climate that we used to have here in Western Europe up until recently. What I found interesting is that T. takil seems to be very drought but also very swamp tolerant. But not so cold tolerant. They're often described as the hardiest Trachycarpus but they are deffintely not, at least when young. In the cold snap of December they fared worse than Phoenix palms.1 point
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Yeah, you are probably right. I just looked up rainfall statistics for Western and Northwestern Yunnan province in China and in that area it can get as low as 500 mm annual rainfall which is almost semi-arid, but not quite. Also considering Princeps grows on rocky cliffs you have a point. Fortunei apparently comes from Wuhan (lol) where the annual rainfall is 1,100 to 1,300 mm ! Quite a lot. I noticed Pacific Northwest folks in high rainfall areas grow the best Trachys in the Western world. In Western Europe now with these dry summers we could face trouble with Fortunei, especially in unirrigated public planting situations.1 point
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I’ve protected mine here in maine, because I’m zone 6b usually but some winters I’m zone 7. It’s survived the last four winters from temps down to -5 outside the green house and inside it was still 2 degrees f. No troubles or loss of fronds. The sabal minor I added that was unprotected last winter made it thru with frond damage but regrew last summer with a few surviving fronds. I hope that after many winters with allowing some extremes and then protecting the palm it will slowly become more hardy and also endure the cold moisture we have here but it hasn’t seemed to be bothered by the cold air (I open it up after most storms so one side is exposed to the elements. december 2019 may 2020 January 2023 sabal minor1 point
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Definitely recommend looking at the CIDP, Washingtonia, Norfolk Island pines and howea forsteriana locations posted on here and checking them out in London. May is one of the better months to visit day length is around 16 hours then. The natural history museum has some nice CIDP outside of it and some good sized ones nearby in Knightsbridge.1 point
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A video from yesterday from the rainforest area. 93CC50CA-217A-47D8-9A8E-A37E0A2A9F6D.MOV1 point
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Yes, the palms have some drainage but considering the feet of torrential rain in last several months even the hills are turning into wetlands. Joke aside, I believe the main reason is soils and location. The soils we have on the Harbor Bench just south of Brookings are very deep organic rich loam's averaging between 3 and 4 feet of topsoil. That was the reason I purchased the property last century because of the Black Rich soil, it grows anything. The Jubaea shown in Roseburg are not growing in ideal locations, surrounded by asphalt and gravel. Also Brookings climate is considerably more sub-tropical than Roseburg. Rarely are temperatures below 30F even now with sunny skies and clear nights of Jan., as the Marine air moderates and keeps temperatures low during hot summer and warmer in winter during cold arctic drainage. Additionally the extreme southwest coast off Oregon has a northwest-southeast orientation with southwest facing hills and mountains. In winter when the sun is low in the sky, the land and hills above the ocean get a double exposure from the reflection of the sun off the ocean. People get some bad sunburns when outside for several hours even in Dec. Jan, from the reflection just like when being on a boat. This double exposure heats the air around Brookings during winter giving us a Winter Summer. But we also have a Summer Winter during June to Sept. from the dense fog. Following picture of my Tangerine Tree that is 45 years old with Queen Palm behind taken last summer. We are now eating Tangerines which will continue fruiting to March. I also have a couple Persian Limes which produce limes. Limes are very sensitive to frosts and will die at 28F.1 point
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End of '22 "Winter Birds.." Peach/Rosy-Faced Lovebird. Hard to attract, tougher to photograph, esp. at 8am when it is 39F out. The lone Female Anna's Hummingbird at the feeder sneaking in for a drink.. "Dominant" male that defends the feeder likes to chase her away, along with the other male that hangs around.. Green Heron Solitary Sandpiper or Willet. Solitatries are common in marshy habitat here all year while Willets are normally winter visitors. A typical Roadrunner encounter ..Shy and doing everything to avoid being seen.. Toss some seed in the water and attract all the Ringnecks, and Coots nearby.. Finally a decent picture of the immature /winter plumage / female Ruddy Duck. While scouting out the ponds at the park today, thought i'd come across a group of what i thought might be female Scaups or Redheads until i was able to get better looks at the shots.. Even better than getting shots of either Duck? Finding out i got shots of Green Winged Teal.. Unless raised around people, these birds are often nervous around humans and will often flush if approached closely. This particular pond is surrounded in thick, tall vegetation making up close viewing quite difficult.. Regardless, a lifer duck sighting.. Spectacular when puttering around in the water, unforgettable when several, ...or hundreds.. of bright green flashes explode into the air at the same time. Green bar on the wings is hidden when the birds aren't in flight or stretching. Northern Shoveler American Wigeon, both male and female One handsome dude.. A little unusual when a Pied-Billed Grebe can be approached closely and not dive to get away from an assumed threat. Eared grebe, immature, or winter plumage. Small and not always easy to capture ( like to dive a lot ) American White Pelican.. Odd that none hang out in any of the lakes at the park, but are numerous in some of the man-made "lakes" in some housing developments nearby.. Posting the last picture to make a sobering point ..Where ever you fish, and any water-loving birds are present, Don't be a ********* and toss broken line / tackle into the pond, lake, other body of water you're fishing at.. This is what often ends up happening.. Do the right thing, and dispose of un-usable line or hooks responsibility. If it were warmer, i would have dove into the water to corral and untangle this unfortunate bird. Ever present Canada Geese touring ponds and yards around the East Valley on a nice afternoon..1 point
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Up close and personal w/ quite the personality.. Never fails, refill the feeder hanging in the Ficus and this Male Anna's Hummingbird immediately returns to defend it from another male hanging out in the yard. Put up a different feeder under the patio and ..one of them.. was feeding from it within 2 hours. Not sure if it has to do w/ it being cool out but this guy has become very accustomed to both human and Canine presence.. I can now get within 3 feet of where he sits when hanging out near the feeder without him flushing. Putting fresh nectar in it about an hour ago, he immediately flew to it, while i was hanging it back on the tree. Seemed to revel in having pictures taken earlier lol.. We'll see if his cousins are as cooperative when i head back south in the spring to hang out w/ them. Adding 2 more feeders out back, 2 or 3 out front, where shade from both the Olive and house will keep them ( and the visitors ) out of the sun.. Goal is to draw in as many of these guys ...and gals as i can.. + see what less common species will show up while in the neighborhood. 2 males at the feeder, at the same time, = a battle to come. Harder to capture, oddly enough, but Verdins have returned to the feeder as well.. This one Male.1 point
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Late- flying Tailed Orange, Pyrisitia proterpia, or Mexican Yellow, Abaeis mexicana. By December, majority of adults of both species would have either died out for the year, or migrated back into Mexico where it stays warmer over winter. Abaeis boisduvaliana, Boisduval's Yellow, looks very similar but has a slightly larger hind wing / slightly different markings.1 point
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The only thing around here that keeps the squirrels from digging up the roots is rocks. I've had squirrels rip all of my seedlings out of nursery pots and leave them in the sun to die. I lost a few hundred in one day that way. And even the adult palms will get root damage from them. My neighbor breeds them and the city won't do anything about it.1 point
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Trachy are rated Med at least. I wouldn't put them in the slow category or they would not be widely nursery available.1 point
