The next morning we eye the vertical face of the Barranco Wall that we will climb after breakfast. It looks intimidating, but turns out to be my favorite part of the hike. There is a lot of scrambling over boulders and up fissures between rocks, and the views are boundless.
After a hot lunch on the trail we begin a long steady ascent across a lunar landscape. Everything seems really big and open up here.
It is early afternoon when we reach craggy Barafu Camp. 'Barafu' means 'icy' in Swahili, and it is very cold here at 14,950 ft.
We layer on more clothes and rest. At midnight we will begin our last leg of the hike to the summit under a full moon. After hiking with our companions these last few days, we are now bonded as a team, and are looking forward to every member reaching the summit around sunrise.
At the appointed hour we assemble and take our places in line according to the guides' instructions. We are nearly unrecognizable to each other in our bulky layers with headlamps blinding each other's eyes. The trail starts off moderately, then hits a very steep section. Scrambling up the steep granite slabs takes my breath away for a moment, then the slope moderates a bit, and we continue.
It's really cold now and we have to remember to blow back the water in our drinking tubes so it won't freeze. If I remove a mitten to adjust a zipper or open an energy snack, it takes a very long time to warm up again inside the down mittens, and my toes are cold inside my boots. The temperature is estimated to be - 10C, or 14F. The wind kicks up, and after awhile the gusts are pushing us sideways. It continues to blow harder and harder, slowing our progress and intensifying the cold.
Afterward we discussed the wind and how it affected us. We all agreed it had an isolating effect because we couldn't see well in the dark and had to concentrate very hard on our footing, plus the wind made it nearly impossible to talk to each other. So for hours during the climb, it was like we were alone inside our heads with only our thoughts for company. Funny what goes through your mind in that situation...
Somewhere around 18,000 feet I begin to notice my vision is foggy. I think it is the wind drying my eyes, or my hair whipping my eyeballs, or maybe the volcanic dust irritating them. My vision gets worse and worse, until I can just make out the black gaiters of the person in front of me. I realize if I fall behind by more than a couple of steps I could get lost, so I alert the guides to my problem. Since it is only an hour until sunrise, they assign a guide to hold my arm and point where to place my feet (I have lost all depth perception), and we continue the climb.