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Update to the C. Revoluta Polaroid type.

I put a bar about a foot down and it was watery and slick when I pulled it out. Maybe I’ve been overwatering? I think I shouldn’t have pruned the fronds. I see a new spear and I think the palm is drying the other fronds to have energy to push the spear out. Ugh valuable lesson I learned. I just hope my HOA doesn’t bitch that it looks like I have a dying palm in the front.

I stuck a reebar about a foot down the soil and it was pure water. Perhaps ive been overwatering? I didn’t think it was possible. Im gonna take a week off watering. Let it dry out a little and then deep water. It’s definitely pushing a new spear so good news is it isn’t dead.

So strange and wonderful for a cycad!

We just had our first good overnight monsoon rain of the season. Coccothrinax borhidiana looks especially happy! aztropic Mesa, Arizona

You keep planting queens, I'll stick with Sabals.

Lots of new queens in the Nasa area today including some self sown queens in place of their dead parents. The rest of Houston is slowly following. Let's make it queen palm country again 🌴. Here's a 21 survivor today near Seabrook/Taylor Lake. Building probably helping. Should have a full 270 degree crown in a few more months, just as good as 2020😎. (Mule palms could never look this good)

Those are some awesome examples. Thank you for posting. Dave said they can lose the bottle effect when they get taller but still have the narrowing crown shaft . I won’t have to worry too much about when they get tall , it will be a slow grower in the garden. Harry

Gaussia palms are actually quite showy when old boots are trimmed off. Here's some of mine... I've sold about 2 dozen of these to fellow Arizonans - just based on their unique looks. aztropic Mesa, Arizona

Just a quick note: The Palm Society of Southern California is having a meeting in Fallbrook tomorrow: Garden No. 1: Nick Quinn's garden: 310 Burma Road, Fallbrook CA 92028 Garden No. 2: John and Leland Otto, at 1617 Prince Street, Fallbrook CA 92028 Both are LARGE LOTS; Mr. Quinn has critters, including parrots and emus! Hope you can make it!

Looks more like a green one from that photo. As far as Sabal rosei, it was about as fast as a Sabal can grow in the PNW I would say. 4 fronds per year, but it was just settling in. I know the people who bought my place did not protect any of the plants in the terrible Jan 2024 freeze. Based on streetview my large Butia was damaged badly, which it never had been in 9 years but the rosei looks fine. During that winter bomb cyclone the covering I had over it was blown off in the night so it was exposed and never showed damage. From the 2 years I had with it, I would say it was a very hardy palm. I would put it in the same class as Sabal minor, Sabal louisiana, and Trachycarpus. It was not damaged whereas that winter all of my Chamaerops took damage as well as Sabal brazoriensis. I'm not sure how hardy they are but that is one I would try. I also had very promising results with Livistona nitida, although it grew slowly compared to here it was outside for 5 years and never damaged.

These aren't quite as bad as the previous pics but still unnecessary. Healdsburg, CA, where there are some magnificent CIDPs.

I think the fastest growth, not always, but in general leads to a shorter lifespan. Average lifespans for archontophoenix alexandre(50-60 average but up to 100 years), Queens(50-70 years but up to 100) roystonea regia 80-110 years but under ideal conditions they can go 100-150 years. Sabal causiarum well over 100 years, and of course jubaea can easily get to 300 years. IN the animal kingdom the faster metabolism mammals live the shortest lives.

I was attracted to a different species in the genus for similar reasons. I planted this Gaussia princeps with the wall and white fence to its east, so it would receive reflected heat from them as well as the afternoon sun. Other palms have grown over the years so it receives more filtered light now. It has quite the bulbous trunk as you can see. It holds 2 to 3 leaves normally and has never flowered.

This is an "I don't recall" orchid blooming.

Yes , that Queen has been struggling for years . It’s hard to say why without knowing the area or history . The small crown of fronds and stressed look to the trunk are telling of a palm that ain’t too happy. Sometimes they are just “runts” and that happens . I had one cut down that just wouldn’t kick in like the others I have . They grow super fast here once they trunk and get nice canopy effect . Harry The tall one on the left of the Venezuelan Royal is about 17 years from a 10” pot. This is right after trimming prior to our windy season. The crown was reduced by about 50% or so.

A bit of mild sun burn . Typical with recently planted palms in full sun . It may take a while for it to settle in . Remember these like room for their roots and plenty of water. If it is still in a nursery pot , the black pot could be overheating the root ball. If it is in the ground , it will take time to settle in. I don’t fertilize my Archontophoenix here just copious amounts of water , especially in summer. It would depend on your soil there as to what to feed it , if anything. I had a yellowing King at my old house and I gave it SulPoMag (Sulpher , Potassium and Magnesium) . In a couple of months the new fronds were a darker green . A year later it looked fantastic. Once your palm gets going in the ground …..LOOKOUT! They grow fairly fast and that trunk will push it up towards the sky. That one is at that acceleration stage. Harry

Here’s my new baby! Harry That “bottle” shaped base got me! At this age , to me , resembles the Hyophorbe I saw in Hawaii years ago.

I have had no good experience with malayan dwarves. They get damaged very easily. My Orange Panama Tall has had no damage in drops to temperatures like 4⁰C. And only minor spotting in older fronds with -1⁰C.

Here is another update: since march is has grown 4 new frawnds not all are opened but has lost a decent amount also due to stress. I am going to strap a clear giant plant sic tarp over the coconut tree since there are 3 surrounding trees where I could attach a tarp to each corner of a tarp. For the winter, I am also going to line the perimeter with 50 gallon water barrels. My royal survived yet quit growing in may, my archontopheonix maxima and tuckeri are doing good, and my mango+star fruit survived

And I already know about barrariophenoix alfredei. I just really don’t like the look of them.

I also learned that Malayans aren’t as cold hardy, and I had no idea.

I’m a little bit concerned due to the fact that my king palm is slowly turning lime green and losing colour even though I’m fertilising it it’s out in the sun but I don’t think that’s the main issue this is what it looked before and this is after

This Cycas is now hardening the flush I posted a few weeks back. The leaflets don't start until about 5 feet up the rachis.

I was never able to keep a palm consistently happy unless I knew the watering depth. If the soil has some clay, watering depth is determined by time, not flowrate. Excess flowrate that isn't spread around the root zone can run off, evaporate, or channel in the soil. Faster flowrates tend to cause more channeling. Irrigation drippers can be used to great effect in dry areas. You get perhaps 10 degrees more heat there than in Alfredii's native habitat. To me it looks like classic desiccation in the hot season by underwatering. If you went away and watering was not automatic in your absence in the heat, there is the likely culprit. I would water for at least 1 1/2 hrs at low flowrates of 6 gph((3) 2 gallon drippers spaced around the root zone every 3rd day in the heat, less frequent when the high temps drop below 75. You can buy timers and drippers that can be attached to a hose. I have killed plenty of palms by just hand watering, automatic watering is needed and drippers tell you what the flowrate is so you can calculate the total water in gallons. Your palm does not have an established root system, they don't come that way. IF you want it to be happy, you will have to make sure its getting the right amount of water and wet a good root zone area for the first two years. When established they are a low maintenance palm aside consistent watering like most palms. Once roots are established it will carry a full crown like this. I've seen these grown in the arizona desert and all over socal so it can be done. I don't recommend getting the tallest one as its roots have been bound for a long time in a pot. 15 gallons would be fine. I started with a 3 gallon and the above pic is the end of the 3rd full growing season. Here is the 3 gallon 6 months after planting Today its 30 foot tall, and just as wide with a 34-36" thick trunk