Call it whatever, this is my #1 seedling killer

[Trópico]

For info:

Phytophthora palmivora causes bud-rot of palms, fruit-rot or kole-roga of coconut and arecanut.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phytophthora_palmivora

http://www.pacsoa.org.au/palms/Articles/pests2.html

[Jon T]

Frank -- Don't drench with copper solution -- it's a good fungicide if you drip or spray a LITTLE in the spear well, or spray a bit on the leaves, but lots of it, especially into the soil, is very toxic to your little palm.

[Scott]

I've learned alot from this thread. Even though my seedlings appear good, I can see some big mistakes I made - Using those Solo Cups for starters. Not enough peralite. In fact I ran out.

The Daconil - should it go in the soil? or into the spear?

I googled Subdue and was shocked at the price. Any where from $115.00 to $225.00 for Subdue MAXX. Whoa!

So I'll go get more perlite and mix it in. And some Daconil to use to keep things healthy.

Thanks for the info!!!!!!!

[BS Man about Palms]

(Trópico @ Feb. 15 2008,06:02)

QUOTE

The hooded palm reaper paid me another visit two nights ago, this time taking away a Kentiopsis magnifica. Now I'm down to one. I noticed the newest leaf had shrunk in volume but did not pull. But I knew it was dead so I pulled even stronger and there it was, the bud was watery brown. Only the bud (growing point). Nothing else.

Oh well. I will have to live with this problem as a game of chance. This can happen without warning and over a period of hours. Well I did notice that this newest leaf stopped growing sometime ago.

Also I discovered the uselessness of Copper fungicide. I drenched several palms on a solution of this only to find mold growing all over the drenched area the next day!  

Frank- as others have said, the fungicides and perlite are the way to go.  

As a general rule the copper fungicides work better with the larger palms. Also, that blue/green powder it leaves as it dries out is normal, its not a "mold".

I have noticed that Magnificas seem to like it a little cooler than they do warmer.

[cobra2326]

Tropico,

Any updates on this issue? Is it back again this winter for you just like for me? Check out what I lost so far:

Pinanga: Phillipinensis, Javana, Insignis, Maculata

Basselinia: Gracilis, Pancheri

Etc.

I've noticed that the problem almost always happens when the room gets too warm (over 85F or so). Perhaps these species like it cooler?

Edited February 9, 2009 by cobra2326

[kahili]

Like Nigel said-misting the seedlings probably encouraged the bud rot. I dont think it was pythtopthora or the roots would be the first to be affected. The outer coat of the root rots and you can slide it off. Also, I would think that it would take more than one day for the leaves to start to show some signs, although I have seen some fast desiccation with some of my palms sometimes.

Either way-Daconil is not a good choice for this. If it is a pythium or phytopthora fungus, then Daconil will not do any good at all. It will be a waste of money. Like others have said-Subdue, Truban (has an higher percent of active ingredient than Banrot) or aliette are the ones to use. Generally though-if you can have a well draining soil (less) mix with plenty of perlite, and not mist, but water only as needed, keeping it on the dry side, and not use ferts until the seedlings are larger, then the chances are much higher to get the seedling to a larger size. Fungi love humidity and warmth, so try to water in the am and never in the late afternoon or evening. That way, the leaves have a chance to dry off before night and the roots will grow better in dryer soil (they grow at night)

[edric]

I start hundreds of seedlings a year, and I start everything in one gallon pots, when in the south facing room indoors, I never mist without adding a very small amount of rosepride, ( triforine ) formerly known as funginex, by Ortho, I grow a lot of roses also, It's all I've ever used, and it's not to expensive, I've lost very very few seedlings over the years, and if you do not have EXCELLENT ventilation, a fungicide is mandatory inside, even outside some species it is necessary, Ed

[cobra2326]

Here's an interesting article on UFL: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/PP144

Does anyone think that using a sterilized "soilless" mixture would help prevent this problem? I'm thinking about trying that for my next order...