Rhopalostylis sapida, help its dying

[jurassik]

Hello everyone,

 

I need your help. I have this Rhopalostylis sapida, which came in a pot, and I planted it this year in March. Over the last few months (summer months with heat), I’ve noticed the leaves becoming “dry” and “brown”.

 

In June, we had a heatwave that lasted for 3 weeks, with temperatures around 35°C during the day and over 20°C at night.

At that time, I watered it twice a week, but even so, the leaves kept drying out. So I decided to put up a shade cloth to block the direct sun.

 

When I applied the shade cloth, I noticed that the top part of the palm—where the leaves emerge—moves slightly (in the photo, where I have my hand).

Back in March, while it was still in the pot, the palm fell over twice due to the wind. Could this have damaged the top part of the palm?

 

It hasn’t been exposed to frost.

 

Can anyone help me? The palm is large, and I have two others of the same species next to it, and they’re not in this condition…

[Tyrone]

I’m sorry but your palm is dead and has been for a while. Sorry for your loss. That was an old palm. 

[Harry’s Palms]

These hate heat . About the time we started getting more heat waves here , it faded after 20+ years of healthy growth . Mine was about the size of yours and it took 2-3 years to die . A few blocks away there were 3 more in a yard that died too. Maybe if I had kept it in shade but it was in full sun, my mistake . The R. Bauri is supposed to be more tolerant of high summer temps . We’ll see , I planted one ( Bauri Cheesmania) in partial shade and so far the hot days don’t bother it . Sorry for the loss of such a mature specimen. Harry

After looking at your pics more closely , I can see that your palm has been stressed for quite a while . The narrowing trunk at the base of the crown is a give away. Also , in the background , I see other palms that look dried out and a bit crispy . Perhaps more water is needed? Harry

[Jim in Los Altos]

Someone should have advised you that this species must be planted in full shade unless live in a very cool summer climate. These palms can’t handle heat in full sun. It must have been very expensive at that size. Sorry, but the palm is dead. 

[jurassik]

5 hours ago, Tyrone said:

I’m sorry but your palm is dead and has been for a while. Sorry for your loss. That was an old palm. 

Do you know why ?

 

regards

[jurassik]

4 hours ago, Harry’s Palms said:

These hate heat . About the time we started getting more heat waves here , it faded after 20+ years of healthy growth . Mine was about the size of yours and it took 2-3 years to die . A few blocks away there were 3 more in a yard that died too. Maybe if I had kept it in shade but it was in full sun, my mistake . The R. Bauri is supposed to be more tolerant of high summer temps . We’ll see , I planted one ( Bauri Cheesmania) in partial shade and so far the hot days don’t bother it . Sorry for the loss of such a mature specimen. Harry

After looking at your pics more closely , I can see that your palm has been stressed for quite a while . The narrowing trunk at the base of the crown is a give away. Also , in the background , I see other palms that look dried out and a bit crispy . Perhaps more water is needed? Harry

So in your perspective he dies because of heat or direct sun?

 

So narrowing trunk at the base of the crown means the plant it’s bee stressed some time ago? Before march ?

 

about the other plant I send some pictures, I have more 2 sapida, and some Howea fosteriana this ones catches some light frost in winter and some direct sun, they don’t like I try to recover them…. 😞

[jurassik]

2 hours ago, Jim in Los Altos said:

Someone should have advised you that this species must be planted in full shade unless live in a very cool summer climate. These palms can’t handle heat in full sun. It must have been very expensive at that size. Sorry, but the palm is dead. 

Yeah yes they are very expensive, I didn t know they prefer light shade…..

 

Even in shade they can’t handle, if the summers goes above 30 degrees?

 

regards

[jurassik]

Hello I arrive today afternoon in my house and it’s like this 😭😭😭

[Harry’s Palms]

I would say that dead palm has been struggling for at least a year. The others are barely hanging on. It looks like there is no protection for the palms .  Howea can take sun but it takes years before they are ready for that . Most of us start our sun sensitive palms off in the shade so they can slowly grow into sunlight as they get bigger. Your Rhopalostylus will not make it with too much sun and heat , they may already be on their way out. I don’t know what your watering schedule is like , but most palms want lots of water . 
       The Howea has really long petioles ( leaf stems) which tells me it was shade grown . It may pull through but will take at least a year or more to look a bit better.  If you could provide overhead shade for it in the interim it would help , they are pretty tough but they need a cool down at night . If it is more than say low to mid sixties every night they won’t be happy . I really think , if you want palms , you should look for more heat tolerant varieties like Butia , Brahea , or Sabal. There are plenty of others that will thrive in your environment. Some of the Phoenix palms can take sun right out the gate , so will Chamerops or Mediterranean palms. I hope this helps , we all had to learn and this forum is great for teaching . When I began collecting palms , I went to a nursery that had very good knowledge to share . The manager was very active in the local International Palm Society and guided me along …. I am still learning to this day and I started in 1990. Harry

[Jim in Los Altos]

2 hours ago, jurassik said:

Yeah yes they are very expensive, I didn t know they prefer light shade…..

 

Even in shade they can’t handle, if the summers goes above 30 degrees?

 

regards

I have several Rhopalostylis in my garden here in California and all are in mostly shade. My summer climate is mild (mostly high 70s (25°C-29°C) but we occasionally but rarely have a heat wave that can reach as high as 100° (37°C) for a day or two. Nights always cool way down to about 14°C though. These palm’s leaves can still burn if any direct sun hits them during hot spells. Your Kentia palms (Howea forsteriana) would be better off in shadier conditions as well. They can handle more sun after they have several feet of trunk. 
 

[jurassik]

1 hour ago, Harry’s Palms said:

I would say that dead palm has been struggling for at least a year. The others are barely hanging on. It looks like there is no protection for the palms .  Howea can take sun but it takes years before they are ready for that . Most of us start our sun sensitive palms off in the shade so they can slowly grow into sunlight as they get bigger. Your Rhopalostylus will not make it with too much sun and heat , they may already be on their way out. I don’t know what your watering schedule is like , but most palms want lots of water . 
       The Howea has really long petioles ( leaf stems) which tells me it was shade grown . It may pull through but will take at least a year or more to look a bit better.  If you could provide overhead shade for it in the interim it would help , they are pretty tough but they need a cool down at night . If it is more than say low to mid sixties every night they won’t be happy . I really think , if you want palms , you should look for more heat tolerant varieties like Butia , Brahea , or Sabal. There are plenty of others that will thrive in your environment. Some of the Phoenix palms can take sun right out the gate , so will Chamerops or Mediterranean palms. I hope this helps , we all had to learn and this forum is great for teaching . When I began collecting palms , I went to a nursery that had very good knowledge to share . The manager was very active in the local International Palm Society and guided me along …. I am still learning to this day and I started in 1990. Harry

Very thanks it’s seems you have lot acknowledged. And very thanks to share.

why you say the other 2 sapidas aren’t in good health? I put the shade cloth to protect them from direct sun. 
about irrigation  I have sprinklers who works 30 minute every two days, and when I heave lot of hot above 30 degree I do manual irrigation 2-3 times per week.

i send in attachment I photo I take from them on 15 May this year she seems quite okay 🤔

Do you think the sprinkler could kill the plant, cause the direction of water when hits the plant it’s on top of plant!? 
 

About howea I knew they don’t like direct sun that’s why I put near of house for give some shadow until 12h o’clock and in winter stay more protect from frost.

before summer starts I add Fogging system to help the temperature down I try to compensate the shadow ….

in fact I know I could have a first layer of protection for the palms for summer and winter, but isn’t easy to find trees to grow fast, I m trying to to do something like this 

 

Trying to create microclimate….

 

I’m located in Portugal, north, near of Porto, the winters here we have about 10-15 nights the temperature drops 0,-1,-2-3, the day are 10-15 degrees, but very humid, the summers rain a lot in march until May, after that we cold have 2-3 months with very little rain, the temperature are around in night 15-20 Celsius and and days 25 to 35 degrees Celsius…

regards

 

 

 

[jurassik]

1 hour ago, Jim in Los Altos said:

I have several Rhopalostylis in my garden here in California and all are in mostly shade. My summer climate is mild (mostly high 70s (25°C-29°C) but we occasionally but rarely have a heat wave that can reach as high as 100° (37°C) for a day or two. Nights always cool way down to about 14°C though. These palm’s leaves can still burn if any direct sun hits them during hot spells. Your Kentia palms (Howea forsteriana) would be better off in shadier conditions as well. They can handle more sun after they have several feet of trunk. 
 

They are beautiful, what plants you have to give them shade?

 

and your winters how it is ?

 

regards

[Jim in Los Altos]

34 minutes ago, jurassik said:

They are beautiful, what plants you have to give them shade?

 

and your winters how it is ?

 

regards

Here are the averages for my area on these charts. Most of the shade in my garden comes from Archontophoenix cunninghamiana in groves which are fairly fast growing and tolerate full sun pretty well. There are other adult sun and heat tolerant nature palms as well such as Phoenix canariensis, Brahea edulis, Parajubaea torallyi Syagrus romanzoffiana, and others.   
 

[Harry’s Palms]

Like @Jim in Los Altos says , start with fast growing , sun hardy palms that have a large crown for a canopy . Then start introducing others that will use the protection of the faster growing palms or trees. My garden is 28 years old and I used Syagrus Romanzoffiana and Archontophoenix to create a shady haven for other palms . It takes time . In the interim you can enjoy the more sun tolerant palms. Harry

I have much the same type climate as Jim. When I moved here , this was just lawn with no shade. The Syagrus grew rapidly to protect the others.

This Chambeyronia spent the first ten+ years in mostly shade before gradually getting more sun. Same with the Dioon.

the Roystonia Oleracae relied on the fast growing Syagrus for thermal protection in winter

‘This shows the large crown from a Syagrus and the Chrysalidiocarpus Decaryi , also a large Archontophoenix Alexandrea, all giving a bit of micro climate for the Roystonia Oleracae ( left of center) that is not supposed to be able to survive in my climate. 

This Howea Foresteriana was in the shade of the house for many years before growing into the sun. It now handles the sun well . This was over a year ago . The top of the palm is now almost all day in the sun. I have quite a few this size now , but it took several years .

[jurassik]

Hi

@Jim in Los Altos and @Harry’s Palms, yours gardens looking amazing , and thanks suggestion of some species could handle with direct sun and cold be protect the more sensible palms.

but yours weather it’s more regular than mine:

 

Did you saw the video I send?

 

About the plant died did you saw the photos I send from May it seems it okay with it, it’s something needs happen in this 2 last months for plant died ? No? The water of sprinkler it’s direct with the top of plant, please see the pictures.

 

 

[Harry’s Palms]

To me , that last picture tells me that Palm is in trouble . The crown is narrow and the fronds are fading . When Rhopalostylus are healthy , they are thick and not tapered down at the crown . After looking at the weather in your area , I think direct sun with the heat of summer is not working for this palm. You have colder winters than us but there are other palms that will handle that. Also , if the crown of the plant is getting water in it from a sprinkler it could promote crown rot. You have a beautiful property and there is plenty of room for more hardy type palms . Harry

[jurassik]

12 hours ago, Harry’s Palms said:

To me , that last picture tells me that Palm is in trouble . The crown is narrow and the fronds are fading . When Rhopalostylus are healthy , they are thick and not tapered down at the crown . After looking at the weather in your area , I think direct sun with the heat of summer is not working for this palm. You have colder winters than us but there are other palms that will handle that. Also , if the crown of the plant is getting water in it from a sprinkler it could promote crown rot. You have a beautiful property and there is plenty of room for more hardy type palms . Harry

Very thanks for your message and share your acknowledge .

I need to pay more attention to too the other 2 sapidas for they don’t die too….

I already put shade cloth about 2 weeks to protect them from direct sun.

do you think I cloud add fogging system to help the plant be more hydrated?

 

I have about 1300m2 of garden to propagate, in your experience what plant you add first to create a protection layer?

 

By the way I have  3 Archontophenix  cunninghamiana has a trunk that’s starting to look wrinkled or shriveled, do you know why, in winter they catch some frost….

 

[Rob123]

Unfortunately that last palm looks dead as well. If you replace your Rhopaloystylis see if you can find a Chatham Island variety or even a Baueri cheesemanii. They will handle sun much better in my experience and are in my opinion an even more attractive varient/species. Frost shouldn’t be the culprit with these species and I also suspect rot. If you don’t have drip irrigation, it’s also possible that everything is getting underwatered and then rotting when water from a sprinkler comes into direct contact with the trunk. Good luck! I‘d recommend trying out some New Caledonia species as well since they have good cold tolerance and there’s a few that will enjoy lots of sun starting at a 5 or 15 gallon size. 

[UK_Palms]

It may be winter damage possibly that is the problem. What is the lowest temperature that they have been subjected to there in your location? Here in the UK Rhopalostylis run into major problems below -3C.

Also here in the UK the Rhopalostylis have some issues with sunshine/sunburn in summer. They ideally need to be in partial shade at best really. The ones in the Isles of Scilly seem to be okay as the sunshine hours aren’t too high in summer in southwest England, but in southern England on the mainland they get scorched during hot, sunny summers where the sunshine hours rack up.

I recently saw one in Torquay, Devon and it gets shade by a Washingotnia overhead. But another smaller one out in the open nearby has been badly burnt by the very sunny April - July period that we have had this year. Overhead canopy is pretty important in marginal areas during winter and summer.

 

These are all UK photos.

[Tyrone]

7 hours ago, jurassik said:

Very thanks for your message and share your acknowledge .

I need to pay more attention to too the other 2 sapidas for they don’t die too….

I already put shade cloth about 2 weeks to protect them from direct sun.

do you think I cloud add fogging system to help the plant be more hydrated?

 

I have about 1300m2 of garden to propagate, in your experience what plant you add first to create a protection layer?

 

By the way I have  3 Archontophenix  cunninghamiana has a trunk that’s starting to look wrinkled or shriveled, do you know why, in winter they catch some frost….

 

Yes. This palm is long dead too. They need lots of water. 
 

Without any canopy you need to start with palms that want full sun in baking hot sun. Shade loving palms are not going to survive without any canopy. 

[Motlife]

I live almost exactly on the opposite side of the world from you, in the native habitat of the nikau. We have very similar climates except we don't (usually) have as dry a summer as yours, and we never really get above 30C. All the advice above seems great, although at least here with summer watering nikau can handle full sun fairly well. They will certainly burn though, if moved straight from a shady spot to sun. 

 

My recommendation would be to not buy trunking ones. They have a decent sized root system and all the ones I've seen trunking in a pot/bag look really poor compared to ones planted out younger. Those plants you bought are probably at least 20 years old, and I assume they are priced accordingly. If you decide to replace them, I would get one about 1-1.5m high and plant that out under shade (which you could slowly reduce over a year or so if you wanted) . You could probably get a few of them for the cost of the trunking one too! 

Kentias seem a lot less bothered by root constraint but for me are less tolerant of exposure than nikau are, at least until the kentia is older and well adapted 

[jurassik]

11 hours ago, UK_Palms said:

It may be winter damage possibly that is the problem. What is the lowest temperature that they have been subjected to there in your location? Here in the UK Rhopalostylis run into major problems below -3C.

Also here in the UK the Rhopalostylis have some issues with sunshine/sunburn in summer. They ideally need to be in partial shade at best really. The ones in the Isles of Scilly seem to be okay as the sunshine hours aren’t too high in summer in southwest England, but in southern England on the mainland they get scorched during hot, sunny summers where the sunshine hours rack up.

I recently saw one in Torquay, Devon and it gets shade by a Washingotnia overhead. But another smaller one out in the open nearby has been badly burnt by the very sunny April - July period that we have had this year. Overhead canopy is pretty important in marginal areas during winter and summer.

 

These are all UK photos.

Hi very thanks for your message.

 

I live in North Portugal the winters here normally the temperature goes to 0-1 degrees Celsius,  but some times at night we have -2 or -3 , 3 or 6 nights per year in winter.

but I think this palms can handle this minimus temperature.

the issue I saw it’s in summer July, August or September we have little rain, and the temperature can go easily above 30 degrees.

about 2 weeks ago I add a  shade cloth for the sun doesn’t go directly to the leaves.

and I will do manually irrigation to them , if this will work.

 

in reality when I buy them my concerns it’s only hardly palms can go, cause we have frost, and I forgot the direct sun.

 

regards

[jurassik]

8 hours ago, Tyrone said:

Yes. This palm is long dead too. They need lots of water. 
 

Without any canopy you need to start with palms that want full sun in baking hot sun. Shade loving palms are not going to survive without any canopy. 

Yes you are right, so you have suggestions?

dis you saw the video from a guy in Uk that plant Eucalyptus for protect the exotic plants?

 

regards

[jurassik]

4 hours ago, Motlife said:

I live almost exactly on the opposite side of the world from you, in the native habitat of the nikau. We have very similar climates except we don't (usually) have as dry a summer as yours, and we never really get above 30C. All the advice above seems great, although at least here with summer watering nikau can handle full sun fairly well. They will certainly burn though, if moved straight from a shady spot to sun. 

 

My recommendation would be to not buy trunking ones. They have a decent sized root system and all the ones I've seen trunking in a pot/bag look really poor compared to ones planted out younger. Those plants you bought are probably at least 20 years old, and I assume they are priced accordingly. If you decide to replace them, I would get one about 1-1.5m high and plant that out under shade (which you could slowly reduce over a year or so if you wanted) . You could probably get a few of them for the cost of the trunking one too! 

Kentias seem a lot less bothered by root constraint but for me are less tolerant of exposure than nikau are, at least until the kentia is older and well adapted 

Hi beautiful country you live 😀.

yes I agree with you, I think I cloud do more irrigation on this plants, cause since June we have a hot wave, and no rain since then to today, and I only do irrigation 4 times during this month’s ( appart sprinklers irrigation).

and like you send this plants was in shade before me, and it was a huge change 🥺 I need to put some shadow in the beginning for aclimates the palm, and gradually in next 2-3 summer remove….. 

Its very sad for me the big palm died in 2 months and don’t much to save her 😢

 

I have kentias near to nikau, they are more close the house for not catch to much direct sun…. But I need to plant palms or trees who can give protection from summer and in winter to this more sensible palms ….

 

 

[UK_Palms]

2 hours ago, jurassik said:

Hi very thanks for your message.

 

I live in North Portugal the winters here normally the temperature goes to 0-1 degrees Celsius,  but some times at night we have -2 or -3 , 3 or 6 nights per year in winter.

but I think this palms can handle this minimus temperature.

the issue I saw it’s in summer July, August or September we have little rain, and the temperature can go easily above 30 degrees.

about 2 weeks ago I add a  shade cloth for the sun doesn’t go directly to the leaves.

and I will do manually irrigation to them , if this will work.

 

in reality when I buy them my concerns it’s only hardly palms can go, cause we have frost, and I forgot the direct sun.

 

regards

 

If you are having a few nights of -3C during winter, that is sure to cause a few problems. I would need to see your nearest climate stats from last winter, but I suspect the winter has caused some problems. The one growing in Torquay, Devon never really has any temperatures below -2C at worst and it has overhead canopy from a 25 foot Washingtonia. It maybe saw 0C or -1C last winter.

I have heard of people losing Rhopalostylis during winters on the south island of NZ, specifically around Christchurch, if they have a few nights of -4C during a cold winter. So if you have had a few -3C nights and a -4C minimum night last winter, that may really knock the palm back. Especially if it is a very, very wet winter area too (which is the case in northern Portugal), which could further exacerbate any damage.

Based off observations on the south coast of England, Rhopalostylis are actually a bit less hardy than Archontophoenix. I have seen small Archontophoenix come back from -5C in Dorset, whereas bigger Rhopalostylis have died. So when the cold and wet gets them, it properly gets them. Whereas Archontophoenix growing point will survive and push out new growth after a bad winter with lots of rain and a bad cold snap. In one garden over here, 3 Rhopalostylis died in the 22/23 winter, but all 4 of the Archontophoenix's survived.

Also how long had that Rhopalostylis been planted in the ground for? Was it a recent addition in the past few years, or has it been growing there for 10+ years? Looking at the other photos some of the other palms appear to be struggling too. What is your nearest town for a climatic reference? It would help to see your nearest Wunderground station to see the minimums it recorded last winter and the rainfall totals.

[jurassik]

20 minutes ago, UK_Palms said:

 

If you are having a few nights of -3C during winter, that is sure to cause a few problems. I would need to see your nearest climate stats from last winter, but I suspect the winter has caused some problems. The one growing in Torquay, Devon never really has any temperatures below -2C at worst and it has overhead canopy from a 25 foot Washingtonia. It maybe saw 0C or -1C last winter.

I have heard of people losing Rhopalostylis during winters on the south island of NZ, specifically around Christchurch, if they have a few nights of -4C during a cold winter. So if you have had a few -3C nights and a -4C minimum night last winter, that may really knock the palm back. Especially if it is a very, very wet winter area too (which is the case in northern Portugal), which could further exacerbate any damage.

Based off observations on the south coast of England, Rhopalostylis are actually a bit less hardy than Archontophoenix. I have seen small Archontophoenix come back from -5C in Dorset, whereas bigger Rhopalostylis have died. So when the cold and wet gets them, it properly gets them. Whereas Archontophoenix growing point will survive and push out new growth after a bad winter with lots of rain and a bad cold snap. In one garden over here, 3 Rhopalostylis died in the 22/23 winter, but all 4 of the Archontophoenix's survived.

Also how long had that Rhopalostylis been planted in the ground for? Was it a recent addition in the past few years, or has it been growing there for 10+ years?

Hi 

 

I send two photos one you can see the aparece temperature we have along the year and the other grafic you can see the frost, per months e January and December we have 10 days frost total normally…

And you are right our winters are cold and with lot humidity isn’t good for this kind of palms…

I have them in pot since last year, March, I have them with other trees not in garden, to protect them from winter, and in the end of winter, some leaves was burn due the frost, but in my opinion they are good ( above I list a picture of them on May) so in April I decided to plant in garden.

as you know this year we have a hot wave in June, here in Portugal we have almost 2 months the days above 30 degrees (35-37 degrees) nights 20 degrees, and at this time I saw some leaves get dead. But in center seems okay, but in last 2-3 weeks the things get worst, no green leaves it’s quite fast for a palm with slow growing….

so I was looking the reason for that, and I saw this palms need lot of water, I start to irrigation them manually, ( apart of sprinklers)  bur it seems late.

 Other reason I suspect it’s about the sprinklers, the water goes directly on top of the plant ( as phots above) I don’t know if the heart of plant died due rot !?

and I have 2 sapidas near of the one (1 meter and 3 meters) and at moment not died, they are very good but not died, and the ones was died it is the big one should be more resistant than others !? That’s why I bring the sprlinkler to equation….

 I would like to understand very well for not mistake same mistakes.

very thanks

[Jonathan]

That climate looks great for Rhopies, cold isn't the issue. Almost certainly fried I would think, as per comments above. 

If you try some more, maybe provide a bit of shade for the first summer, then gradually remove it. They'll grow perfectly well in full sun once they've adjusted to the conditions. 

Growing palms is always adventure...good luck with your next attempt!

[jurassik]

17 hours ago, Jonathan said:

That climate looks great for Rhopies, cold isn't the issue. Almost certainly fried I would think, as per comments above. 

If you try some more, maybe provide a bit of shade for the first summer, then gradually remove it. They'll grow perfectly well in full sun once they've adjusted to the conditions. 

Growing palms is always adventure...good luck with your next attempt!

Hi thanks for the replay I believe it direct sun don’t help , but I have some concerns from May until July he changes radically. In May the leaves look green now all death, I think if it’s fried it will take more time…  this days I wondering if it’s the sprinkler cause the water of sprinklers goes directly to canopy… it’s seems rot ….

[Jim in Los Altos]

50 minutes ago, jurassik said:

Hi thanks for the replay I believe it direct sun don’t help , but I have some concerns from May until July he changes radically. In May the leaves look green now all death, I think if it’s fried it will take more time…  this days I wondering if it’s the sprinkler cause the water of sprinklers goes directly to canopy… it’s seems rot ….

Getting water into the palm’s canopy is not a problem with the species. Mine get wet whenever irrigation comes on. Full sun is deadly on them unless you’re in a very cool summer climate. The six growing here are protected from the sun. I have one that gets partial sun and some of its leaflets burn when it’s warmer than usual here. 
 

[jurassik]

On 7/22/2025 at 10:49 PM, Jim in Los Altos said:

Getting water into the palm’s canopy is not a problem with the species. Mine get wet whenever irrigation comes on. Full sun is deadly on them unless you’re in a very cool summer climate. The six growing here are protected from the sun. I have one that gets partial sun and some of its leaflets burn when it’s warmer than usual here. 
 

Thanks for your replay.

 

i remove one plant from garden to other zone with full shade…. But I think he will not survive it was too late, I apply hydrogen peroxide, I don’t know if will help or not…

but I’m still quite doubts about the sprinkler irrigation to canopy, cause I what I see the canopy seems damp and rotten… look the photo:

[Jim in Los Altos]

1 hour ago, jurassik said:

Thanks for your replay.

 

i remove one plant from garden to other zone with full shade…. But I think he will not survive it was too late, I apply hydrogen peroxide, I don’t know if will help or not…

but I’m still quite doubts about the sprinkler irrigation to canopy, cause I what I see the canopy seems damp and rotten… look the photo:

A healthy shade grown Rhopalostylis won’t be affected by water in its canopy. A sun roasted dying or dead one will certainly be rotting and decomposing with the moisture however. 

[Tassie_Troy1971]

On 8/18/2025 at 3:19 AM, jurassik said:

Thanks for your replay.

 

i remove one plant from garden to other zone with full shade…. But I think he will not survive it was too late, I apply hydrogen peroxide, I don’t know if will help or not…

but I’m still quite doubts about the sprinkler irrigation to canopy, cause I what I see the canopy seems damp and rotten… look the photo:

Hi 

Where are you located

If you have those temperatures throughout summer are not the best for this species.

I live in coastal Tasmania and very mild summer  temperatures and Rhopalostylis grow in full sun like escapees in the ground.

So you bought the palm as a huge potted specimen.  Rhopalostylis sapida is not the easiest to transplant maybe yours had not fully established from ground.

It looks to me like that palm was already in trouble as I noticed that it has pencilled below the crown shaft through growing stress.

I would try again with a 5 gallon in filtered light or just morning sun.

 

 

 

[Tassie_Troy1971]

14 hours ago, Tassie_Troy1971 said:

Hi 

Where are you located

If you have those temperatures throughout summer are not the best for this species.

I live in coastal Tasmania and very mild summer  temperatures and Rhopalostylis grow in full sun like escapees in the ground.

So you bought the palm as a huge potted specimen.  Rhopalostylis sapida is not the easiest to transplant maybe yours had not fully established from ground.

It looks to me like that palm was already in trouble as I noticed that it has pencilled below the crown shaft through growing stress.

I would try again with a 5 gallon in filtered light or just morning sun.

 

 

 

Ah sorry I found your previous posts and saw you are in Portugal and exactly the same latitude as I am in Tasmania.

Here is a picture of  my Rhopalostylis baueri that I have grown in full sun from a small container plant.

Spend some time amending the garden beds with rich compost and mulch after planting I use automated irrigation systems that water 3 times per week for 40 minutes per round.