I just got a 25 Gallon Montgomery that is probably 12 feet at its tallest point. I am 9b in a 10a style microclimate on Anastasia Island.

Everything I read about these was that they are true “full sun” plants. In my climate I had some thoughts that putting this tree in a true south exposed spot was the best idea for the wintertime when it might get colder. The only thing that gave me pause is the amount I have seen grown under canopy (opposite of full sun) in 10b areas. 
 

another issue was how quick the sunburn set in on my specimen just sitting in the sun for two days. 
 

so what’s the real deal from your experience? Can I plant him in an area that only really gets 2-3 hours of direct sun I’m high summer and is more under the canopy of two 18 foot queens?

3 hours ago, byuind said:

I just got a 25 Gallon Montgomery that is probably 12 feet at its tallest point. I am 9b in a 10a style microclimate on Anastasia Island.

Everything I read about these was that they are true “full sun” plants. In my climate I had some thoughts that putting this tree in a true south exposed spot was the best idea for the wintertime when it might get colder. The only thing that gave me pause is the amount I have seen grown under canopy (opposite of full sun) in 10b areas. 
 

another issue was how quick the sunburn set in on my specimen just sitting in the sun for two days. 
 

so what’s the real deal from your experience? Can I plant him in an area that only really gets 2-3 hours of direct sun I’m high summer and is more under the canopy of two 18 foot queens?

If it was previously shade grown it will certainly burn at first in full sun, possibly severely depending on how dramatic the transition is. 

You are correct that Veitchia are full sun plants by nature, but they do look great under canopy as well, and will grow at at steady pace in an effort to reach more sunlight. I think you can't really go wrong no matter where you plant it, just be careful with the transition to full sun. 

 

2 hours ago, aabell said:

If it was previously shade grown it will certainly burn at first in full sun, possibly severely depending on how dramatic the transition is. 

You are correct that Veitchia are full sun plants by nature, but they do look great under canopy as well, and will grow at at steady pace in an effort to reach more sunlight. I think you can't really go wrong no matter where you plant it, just be careful with the transition to full sun. 

 

In your mind, would the sun in the colder months be more beneficial to have more of that direct sun as opposed to the shade of a Queen Palm canopy? Or would it be 6 one way/ half dozen the other type scenario?

I have many in my yard (guess 20) mostly volunteers from one large one. The ones growing in full sun are definitely a little faster and more robust than the ones growing in shade. My area is a warm zone 10a or cold 10b.

Edited March 31, 20233 yr by Hurricanepalms

10 hours ago, byuind said:

In your mind, would the sun in the colder months be more beneficial to have more of that direct sun as opposed to the shade of a Queen Palm canopy? Or would it be 6 one way/ half dozen the other type scenario?

Most of the better ones inland have some form of sheltered environment.  The large ones on the southeast shore of Lake Hamilton have oaks around them.  The ones I have in the yard have a few other large trees around them, usually Live Oak, Mango, or Avocado trees.  Ideally, the canopy should be high and open to the south if you use canopy.  A queen won't help much during a cold event, so I'd opt for full sun in that scenario.

11 hours ago, kinzyjr said:

Most of the better ones inland have some form of sheltered environment.  The large ones on the southeast shore of Lake Hamilton have oaks around them.  The ones I have in the yard have a few other large trees around them, usually Live Oak, Mango, or Avocado trees.  Ideally, the canopy should be high and open to the south if you use canopy.  A queen won't help much during a cold event, so I'd opt for full sun in that scenario.

Since you do seem to know about these things: what is the “safe” temp for these in the winter? As in what temp for no protection and still having a palm that doesn’t look like a brown, raggedy mess every spring?

I know the question wasn’t posed to me, but mine see 35 to 38 every year and show no visible signs of damage. Normally mine are more damaged by strong winds (50mph or more) where some of the leaves will snap off, but they regrow their crowns so quickly, it is only a short-term superficial issue.

Edited March 31, 20233 yr by Hurricanepalms

39 minutes ago, Hurricanepalms said:

I know the question wasn’t posed to me, but mine see 35 to 38 every year and show no visible signs of damage. Normally mine are more damaged by strong winds (50mph or more) where some of the leaves will snap off, but they regrow their crowns so quickly, it is only a short-term superficial issue.

Do yours get lots of direct sunlight or are they covered?

I have a mix. My largest and happiest ones are in direct sunlight. They seem to enjoy direct sun from a very early age.

7 hours ago, byuind said:

Since you do seem to know about these things: what is the “safe” temp for these in the winter? As in what temp for no protection and still having a palm that doesn’t look like a brown, raggedy mess every spring?

The graphic shared below is an excerpt from the Cold Hardiness Master Data spreadsheet. 

According to the available data, they are survivable with damage down to between 26F-28F.  26F is when you get a good chance of this palm dying.  28F is typically a good bit of damage.  In the 30F-32F range, the amount of damage typically depends on the formation of frost.  I have a red box around a palm that was completely out in the open with a lot of foliar damage.  There is a yellow box around another palm with some canopy overhead.  There is a green box around a palm that has total cover overhead, with the canopy opening to the southwest - with no damage.  All of the Lakeland observations are from palms in my yard.