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Kentia palms. Are they really good indoor palms?


sashaeffer

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Ok, have done searches both here in forums and online.  Kentia palms (both species) are usually mentioned as one of the top 5 indoor palms to have.

I have a "3 try rule" with palms and will throw in the towel after that but that generally is on species that have little known about them as indoor palms.

Kentia palms are gorgeous but crazy expensive to buy here in Nebraska. I'm lucky in that even mail order or when I make road trips to California they are a dime a dozen and pretty cheap to buy.

I have tried at least 10? times of various sizes. Some single, others 3/4 in a pot.  When left outside in dappled light here in the summer they get very ample rain and seem to do just great and almost fast growers it seems. Yet, when I bring them indoors when weather turns colder that is when the issue starts OR when I buy one and keep it indoor right away.

All are in the same pot and soil they have been in.

When watered I have only used RO water, collected rain water, bottled water or water from our well that has been filtered first. All same result.

None have been kept in any direct sun, but in bright rooms.

This last one to die came from Hawaii by the volcanic media the single palm was in so drained super fast, yet I only watered it like most other palms in my house(I have over 100) fronds slowly discolor, turn brown(but not dried out) and palm finally dies.

Just got back from another road trip to San Diego and bought a nice 4 palms in 5 gallon container and soil looks to be 100% cocoa choir and sticker says from Hawaii. Palm sits in corner of bedroom on table and only gets bright natural light in the mornings but LED floor lamp close by keeps it in light all day. So far still looks ok after being here for 2 weeks.

So...question is, what is the magic care solution on these beauties. I would love to buy a much larger one, but really need to figure out what the care issue is for this species. Tired of reading how great they are indoors yet can't keep one alive myself.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

As a side note, we have two premier nurseries here in the Omaha, NE area. One of those sold Kentia palms. These were in 15? gallon containers and rarely sold because of the price which was $600-$800. These were 3/4 to a pot and about 3 feet tall is all.  I had become friends with the tropical plant manager there and when I didn't see them anymore she told me they were going to stop carrying them because when they would get bought they would then die and customers wanted their money back, so then I started to wonder if it was environmental change is what do that species in.

Edited by sashaeffer
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The first thing that struck me when I read your post is that these palms had been raised outdoors in bright natural light, beneficial rain and acceptable humidity. Then they are hauled to NE where at some point they are stuck in a chilly, dark, dry northern house over long winter. Because light bulbs and RO water can't replicate the conditions these palms experienced outdoors in nature. Such a sudden change in conditions must shock them and maybe intitiate a decline in their health. Add in insect pests and spider mite infestations that plague houseplants and they die by spring.

I am speculating here because I don't keep plant indoors here long term but I remember my struggle to keep potted palms alive indoors throughout a VA winter.

Meg

Palms of Victory I shall wear

Cape Coral (It's Just Paradise)
Florida
Zone 10A on the Isabelle Canal
Elevation: 15 feet

I'd like to be under the sea in an octopus' garden in the shade.

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I agree with @PalmatierMeg. All of that sounds like a classic case of shock. 

Also, when palms are hard grown (outdoors) and then yanked indoors when the temps change this adds additional stress.

If you were to grow outdoors in the summer, try moving them closer to their house conditions a few weeks before you expect cooler weather to come. 

For instance, if the palm is grown on a patio where it receives bright indirect sunlight, try moving it closer to the shade over the course of several weeks.

To go from having nice warm, bright, humid, and good air movement to suddenly being put inside a dim/dark, cool, stagnant, and dry house is quite a change for a palm. 

 

Additionally, Id ask if you have used a humidifier nearby? Keeping the humidity up around the palm COULD (and I greatly stress could) help with its adjustment. 50-65% RH might help. 

It is my understanding that Kentias do not like wet feet but instead consistent moisture in a sharp draining medium. 

 

I am no Kentia expert but I am hoping someone can chime in here to help.

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3 hours ago, sashaeffer said:

These were in 15? gallon containers and rarely sold because of the price which was $600-$800.

Wow, that is a crazy price compared to one I bought here this side of the pond, and is still growing very nicely two years later!   It was in what would equate to about a 10 gallon pot when purchased and cost £15. Admittedly this was an especially good deal, but even so they usually sell here for between about £25 and £35 for a similar size and not too different from the one you have bought

I immediately potted mine up a size in another pot with plenty of well drained commercial compost with added fertilizer and because it was summer I kept it outside under a well lit gazebo, but out of direct hot sunshine. It sat out of the gazebo in any rain/thunderstorms that came along. It sent out up to three new large fronds over the course of the summer before it came inside sometime during September that year. The first winter it was by a well lit window, with the assistance of a low energy grow-lamp lighting the room and my other palms in there with it. I let it get pretty dry before a light watering, and it was fine until the Spring this year.

I repeated the same procedure this summer potting it up another size - and it came inside again this September. Regular watering and a few feeds during the summer and now back to light watering and letting it dry out quite a bit in between. The palm is now more than double the size when I bought it - over two years previously.

It is a typical forced grown type palm, but since I bought it, it has lost some of that vertical skinny forced look and is starting to look more expansive width wise.   Maybe buying it in early summer helped because it has a good two to three months of natural warmth, bright light and good feeds to set it up for the longer haul inside? Then ready to establish further again this summer - and so on and so forth. Thus avoiding any change of environment shock which I agree doesn't help if the plant goes from bright fast natural growing conditions to much darker, dry air environments and also where pests can take hold if they get weaker.

They are easy to grow generally, and provided the usual rules of house plants are observed in terms of drainage, watering, feeding, light etc then problems are easily avoided. I would definitely suggest avoiding tap water with these, I am sure that my own has benefitted from the use of rainwater from a butt outside during dry periods and when inside during the winter time..

Edited by petiole10
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They are definitely on my short list for the top five indoor palms.  

Here in NJ/Zone 7, my Kentia goes outside in the corner of a deck that gets protected from the worst of the sun (there's also a patio umbrella that filters some of the sun),  having said that, it does get a good bit of direct sunlight in the Spring through the Summer.  You have to be careful in transitioning them from indoors to out, leaves will burn if not acclimated. (and your summer sun is fiercer than mine).  By the end of October, I have to protect it from the chance of frost, so it goes in the basement under florescent light, where it is also relatively humid and warm (though this species does well in coolish conditions!)  They also don't like to get too dry,  and humidity is a big help too.

Do you have a place in the home that it might be happy in all year round?

P.S. My other favorite indoor/indoor-outdoor palms are Rhapis species (Lady palm),  various Chamaedorea species, Hyophorbes (Spindle and Bottle palms), and Caryota mitis (Fishtail palm).

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I've just started keeping these (a few months) and I literally do nothing with them.  Bright room, fast draining soil and water sparingly from the bottom.  I'm using room temp water that is either run through a zero water filter (takes out chlorine and most of the TDS) or water from an aquarium.

3' kentia palm here are $400 and 4' are $600.  Totally ridiculous, I had to mail order some smaller ones, and have patience.  If I'm going to spend $600 on a palm it's going to be  big one for outside.

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My latest attempt(8th try?) a triple I picked up at a Home Depot in San Diego earlier this month when I did a road trip there. $50 

Only have water at once since I brought it back since it had just been watered at the store. In the spot it will receive bright light but never any direct sun so we’ll see how it does here.

 

only have watered it once since I brought it back since it had just been watered at the store. In this spot it will receive bright light but never any direct sun so we’ll see how it does here.

 

Other picture of one of the fronds is the discoloration that starts when these start to go downhill.

613960F9-9F9F-4EDE-A1F5-E96035DDBC37.jpeg.c493e6b17089cdc2a7c1258f1148e7cb.jpegIndoor winter humidity is around 45% and maybe this one I will water from the bottom like member above said he does on his and see how it goes.Indoor winter humidity is around 45% and maybe this one I will water from the bottom like member above said he does on his and see how it goes.

B648B78A-4544-41E1-9DC0-4C9C34D0362E.jpeg

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On 11/26/2019 at 11:47 AM, sashaeffer said:

My latest attempt(8th try?) a triple I picked up at a Home Depot in San Diego earlier this month when I did a road trip there. $50 

Only have water at once since I brought it back since it had just been watered at the store. In the spot it will receive bright light but never any direct sun so we’ll see how it does here.

 

only have watered it once since I brought it back since it had just been watered at the store. In this spot it will receive bright light but never any direct sun so we’ll see how it does here.

 

Other picture of one of the fronds is the discoloration that starts when these start to go downhill.

613960F9-9F9F-4EDE-A1F5-E96035DDBC37.jpeg.c493e6b17089cdc2a7c1258f1148e7cb.jpegIndoor winter humidity is around 45% and maybe this one I will water from the bottom like member above said he does on his and see how it goes.Indoor winter humidity is around 45% and maybe this one I will water from the bottom like member above said he does on his and see how it goes.

B648B78A-4544-41E1-9DC0-4C9C34D0362E.jpeg

Dude! You are the BEST palm daddy!

Just keep it moist, not wet, let dry between waterings, give it light not sun and it should grow well, as things do with your exemplary husbandry. (Wifery?) If it's tight in the dirt, you'll be all right. That's a serious transition from SD to Omaha.

Let us know how they grow!

Let's keep our forum fun and friendly.

Any data in this post is provided 'as is' and in no event shall I be liable for any damages, including, without limitation, damages resulting from accuracy or lack thereof, insult, or lost profits or revenue, claims by third parties or for other similar costs, or any special, incidental, or consequential damages arising out of my opinion or the use of this data. The accuracy or reliability of the data is not guaranteed or warranted in any way and I disclaim liability of any kind whatsoever, including, without limitation, liability for quality, performance, merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose arising out of the use, or inability to use my data. Other terms may apply.

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Dave, watering seems to be the downfall. Inside, they must like to be on dry side as most I've had that died  did so after a watering. All that I've had stayed in the growing media it came in either cocoa choir or lava rock.

Funny how outside getting all kinds of rain has no effect....other than speedy growth.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sashaeffer, being from a cold winter climate as you are, I also need to grow my Kentias (forsteriana & belmoreana) indoors 6 months a year.  I agree with the comments that they need to be kept drier in pot and never sit in water.  I usually default on not watering if I am not sure.  During summer I am careful not to overwater as well, but I often spray the undersides of leaves with mist even if I don't water.  Mine are usually in pots that seem too small also; I don't think they should be over-potted.  What I keep in mind is Lord Howe Island is outside of the tropics; maritime climate and cooler temperatures than say Queensland, AU, Borneo., and even FL summers  The closest similar climate I can think of near the east coast is Bermuda (outside the tropics; maritime; frost-free as far as I know).  When I hear that kentias do better in southern CA near the ocean than in south florida, that makes sense to me: balmy air coming in from cool/cold pacific ocean as opposed to SW FL's sultry summers.  I actually think my palms do better outdoors up in Rhode Island, nearby the ocean because our summers seem similar to Lord Howe's growing conditions - balmy humid ocean breezes and cooler summer temps 70s-80s rarely hit 90.  When I lived in MD, very hot humid summers, I made sure not to overwater the palms to avoid root rot/disease.  In MD they stayed under a tall deck, shaded, on north side of house.  Some pics below. H. belmoreana pictured 1st and H. forsteriana pictured 2nd:

WP_20191013_01_13_02_Pro.thumb.jpg.0b0030e7e89376e80c7a722d663fdbe6.jpg

 

WP_20181008_15_49_23_Pro.thumb.jpg.9dee8d5f0173360b5da3fc4409f1e81a.jpg

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I think they’re one of the better choices for indoor palms, but they’re not nearly as rugged as Rhapis in my experience. I kept one alive for 2 years, it ultimately perished from root rot, that seems to be a common theme here.

Also, they’re the only palm I’ve owned that disliked summers here, I moved mine outdoors into a shaded spot and it fried, however the palm did manage to slowly recover. Looked up Lord Howe’s Island’s weather data and was surprised to see that their all time record high temperature was only 80-something degrees.

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I've got about 6 in one pot, been doing really well, nice and green. I would love to separate them as they are really crammed in and they are not really growing. Is this wise? Not sure how they take to root disturbance? 

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Update: showing this Kentias decline.

 

Just purchased when I did a road trip to San Diego over a month ago and bought this nice triple for $55 at Home Depot. It was a nice green fluffy palm grown in Hawaii and it’s well draining soil. One by one the fronds discolor and die.

 

Never direct light indoors but always bright light. Watering is  kept to a minimum As I have discovered watering it every time the soil probe says it’s dry will cause death even quicker. I have tried setting the pot in standing water to allow water to “wick” up from below but Still doesn’t make a difference.

 

still doesn’t make a difference.

 

When I have had these outside, And they get a lot more moisture from all the rain that we typically get and warmer temperatures they have actually been moderate to fast growers but is soon as they come inside quickly declined. I just don’t understand how some people keep these looking so great indoors for years and years. I have well over 100 palm trees a very species in my home and keep them without issue.

54764526-F6FF-406C-B5B5-9A9E770C3BF9.jpeg

49173820-6CBE-4963-9443-71B702CBA661.jpeg

Edited by sashaeffer
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Another update.

 

Another update.

 

After reading other peoples posts on here with similar issues With root rot being the single most reason these palms decline they decided to pull the pome out of its pot to see what the roots look like and what I discovered is while the upper 2/3 of the soil ball is bone dry the bottom 2 inches are still pretty damp.

 

again this is the soil that came in the pot when I bought the palm and it appears to be a Cocoa coir and fast draining but does appear to retain a lot of moisture.

Going to repot but use black lava rock that I keep from Palms that I get from floribunda.

 

going to repot but use black lava rock that I keep from Palms that I get from floribunda.

 

Even if this palm doesn’t make it I will still get another one and just keep it more on the dry side indoors.

 

I have many different species of Chamaedorea  palms indoors and have learned to keep them almost bone dry to keep them happy.

 

 

874B240A-08F6-40E8-BB2E-45944CAD4CFA.jpeg

6224A9EF-A8F8-4C36-A478-9A5816C5E868.jpeg

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Good luck. I am very interested to see what works for you because I have 5 Kentia seedlings that I collected as seed in Balboa Park in SD last year. I really want to keep these guys alive as a souvenir of the great time my wife and I had on our first trip ever to the west coast! Fingers crossed for you. 

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1 minute ago, HtownPalms said:

Good luck. I am very interested to see what works for you because I have 5 Kentia seedlings that I collected as seed in Balboa Park in SD last year. I really want to keep these guys alive as a souvenir of the great time my wife and I had on our first trip ever to the west coast! Fingers crossed for you. 

On other species that I can't keep alive when a palm is bought I do have much better luck when I grow those same species from seed so you might do just fine.

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11 hours ago, benko said:

 

I've got about 6 in one pot, been doing really well, nice and green. I would love to separate them as they are really crammed in and they are not really growing. Is this wise? Not sure how they take to root disturbance? 

I first bought my Kentia (Howea forsteriana) over 20 years ago as a potted palm.  There were 4 palms in the pot.  I did separate them about 19 years ago (I did not know how sensitive they were to root disturbance back then).  This was a $$$ plant so I know I was careful with the separation.  They did fine.  A few years later, however, I lost one of the 4 by watering it too much outdoors in hot humid weather; the roots and crown had some type of rot.  I learned the hard way; since then I am careful about watering and lean toward the drier side.  I still have the 3 palms left.  Few months ago, I potted up the "runt" of the original 4.  It is now over my head.  Amazing how much top growth is supported by such a small rootball.  Pics below.  This palm got some sunburn as I was not paying attention to the angle of sun entering southern exposure sunroom.  It appears very upright because I wire the petioles together for their winter indoors so they don't take over the house with their spread.

1820876546_2howearepot2019.jpeg.jpg.dae787a5dd8e4a6f70b7895cb12ec3ce.jpg

 

751383319_howeafrepot2019.jpeg.jpg.7cf81b19e35b217beef784fbfcf33dba.jpg

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12 hours ago, sashaeffer said:

Even if this palm doesn’t make it I will still get another one and just keep it more on the dry side indoors.

Any possibility the roots are getting too cold? Your pic looks like you keep it in a corner jet tub kinda thing with windows on two outside walls above the tub. The cold air that falls from the windows is trapped in the tub. So while the room air temp might be 70 F  (at 5' above the floor) the cool air sitting in the tub at floor level might be much lower.

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Was in the tub for pictures 

 

I keep a nice Joey palm next to that window and does fine.

Edited by sashaeffer
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I just want to give Sashaeffer a huge thumbs up here.  He's got 5 times as many palms as I do and I can attest it is not an easy thing to keep these guys alive in Nebraska.  I don't have a Kentia yet, but after reading this I'll probably hold off until the secret is found.  

"Ph'nglui mglw'napalma Funkthulhu R'Lincolnea wgah'palm fhtagn"
"In his house at Lincoln, dread Funkthulhu plants palm trees."

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3 hours ago, Funkthulhu said:

I just want to give Sashaeffer a huge thumbs up here.  He's got 5 times as many palms as I do and I can attest it is not an easy thing to keep these guys alive in Nebraska.  I don't have a Kentia yet, but after reading this I'll probably hold off until the secret is found.  

Thank you my friend.  

I've had 3 species that I've had luck with by planting them in 100% perlite. I buy at hydroponics store where they sell it by the large bag and in various sizes.  The Adonidia and Wodyetia would "exist" but slowly decline when indoors especially with the Wodyetia if watered.  The Verschaffeltia wouldn't last a week as the fronds would simply dry up and palm would die. These I simply by seeds from member Dundee on here and when all 3 are planted in 100% perlite they do just fine...and thrive. For me...indoors in ANY KIND of soil they will die. Now, in the case of the Verschaffeltia it's a matter more of change of climate coming from a high humidity area to one where indoors it's at the most 45% BUT when when grown from seed and it's all they ever are used to, they do fine and still grow fast.

 

These 3 species are...

Adonidia merrillii (christmas palm)

Wodyetia bifurcata  (foxtail)

Verschaffeltia splendita

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On 12/18/2019 at 11:45 PM, piping plovers said:

I first bought my Kentia (Howea forsteriana) over 20 years ago as a potted palm.  There were 4 palms in the pot.  I did separate them about 19 years ago (I did not know how sensitive they were to root disturbance back then).  This was a $$$ plant so I know I was careful with the separation.  They did fine.  A few years later, however, I lost one of the 4 by watering it too much outdoors in hot humid weather; the roots and crown had some type of rot.  I learned the hard way; since then I am careful about watering and lean toward the drier side.  I still have the 3 palms left.  Few months ago, I potted up the "runt" of the original 4.  It is now over my head.  Amazing how much top growth is supported by such a small rootball.  Pics below.  This palm got some sunburn as I was not paying attention to the angle of sun entering southern exposure sunroom.  It appears very upright because I wire the petioles together for their winter indoors so they don't take over the house with their spread.

1820876546_2howearepot2019.jpeg.jpg.dae787a5dd8e4a6f70b7895cb12ec3ce.jpg

 

751383319_howeafrepot2019.jpeg.jpg.7cf81b19e35b217beef784fbfcf33dba.jpg

Thank you, you have inspired me to divide mine! Your palm looks fantastic.

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3 hours ago, benko said:

Thank you, you have inspired me to divide mine! Your palm looks fantastic.

Thank you.  Keep us posted on the division!

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39 minutes ago, Coco Loco said:

image.png.3ab3419c79f11633dc8aa76ab567ab01.png

Here's a Kentia for you. 23" pot, 12' tall.

Fantastic specimen!  Something to aim for.   I can see this being a focal point in an interior planting under a large domed atrium or skylight.  How old would you say that palm is?  My largest indoor kentia is over 20 yrs and has no trunk yet showing.

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On 12/20/2019 at 1:45 PM, sashaeffer said:

Thank you my friend.  

I've had 3 species that I've had luck with by planting them in 100% perlite. I buy at hydroponics store where they sell it by the large bag and in various sizes.  The Adonidia and Wodyetia would "exist" but slowly decline when indoors especially with the Wodyetia if watered.  The Verschaffeltia wouldn't last a week as the fronds would simply dry up and palm would die. These I simply by seeds from member Dundee on here and when all 3 are planted in 100% perlite they do just fine...and thrive. For me...indoors in ANY KIND of soil they will die. Now, in the case of the Verschaffeltia it's a matter more of change of climate coming from a high humidity area to one where indoors it's at the most 45% BUT when when grown from seed and it's all they ever are used to, they do fine and still grow fast.

 

These 3 species are...

Adonidia merrillii (christmas palm)

Wodyetia bifurcata  (foxtail)

Verschaffeltia splendita

Sashaeffer,

Regarding Verschaffeltia, my lone survivor seedling is starting to show browned-grey leaf tips and I hope they don't spread.  It's 1st winter and I am struggling keeping this happy.  It seems that whatever indoor conditions favor the kentias, are likely contrary to good conditions for the  Verschaffeltia.  My house is kept cool and darker than I'd like.   I noticed that you and some others have some real healthy ones that you grow under lights.  Until I get fancy lights, I just started putting my Verschaffeltia under a regular table lamp (not ideal light spectrum I know, but anything to get it through our dark winters until daylength increases).  Not trying to hijack this Kentia thread, but I included a photo below with browning tips.  Yes, it is growing in a RED PARTY CUP, but I don't water it with beer, unless that is the missing ingredient to successful Verschaffeltia culture.  :))  

1899484122_Verschaffeltiadec2019image1.jpeg.jpg.d0f5d2de29fdcf505f1f8c4d7c1fabe5.jpg

 

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4 hours ago, piping plovers said:

Sashaeffer,

Regarding Verschaffeltia, my lone survivor seedling is starting to show browned-grey leaf tips and I hope they don't spread.  It's 1st winter and I am struggling keeping this happy.  It seems that whatever indoor conditions favor the kentias, are likely contrary to good conditions for the  Verschaffeltia.  My house is kept cool and darker than I'd like.   I noticed that you and some others have some real healthy ones that you grow under lights.  Until I get fancy lights, I just started putting my Verschaffeltia under a regular table lamp (not ideal light spectrum I know, but anything to get it through our dark winters until daylength increases).  Not trying to hijack this Kentia thread, but I included a photo below with browning tips.  Yes, it is growing in a RED PARTY CUP, but I don't water it with beer, unless that is the missing ingredient to successful Verschaffeltia culture.  :))  

1899484122_Verschaffeltiadec2019image1.jpeg.jpg.d0f5d2de29fdcf505f1f8c4d7c1fabe5.jpg

 

Picture of my largest one with close up perlite size I use.

last picture is of the rest of them getting their weekly watering in the sink because it drains so quick.

 

674A599E-2255-4A28-9EC0-5212AC14B3E8.jpeg

DDCF64BC-E6E7-41E0-9181-1918B9336D6D.jpeg

C90BDD21-95FE-4966-8510-62036F361BB1.jpeg

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1 hour ago, sashaeffer said:

Picture of my largest one with close up perlite size I use. 

last picture is of the rest of them getting their weekly watering in the sink because it drains so quick.

 

Thanks.  Very attractive palms there.  I didn't realize perlite came in a larger size; I'll have to look for some.

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8 hours ago, piping plovers said:

 

Thanks.  Very attractive palms there.  I didn't realize perlite came in a larger size; I'll have to look for some.

Find a hydroponics store in your area as they have a wide variety of media to grow plants in. Perlite comes in many sizes from small to about marble size.

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2 hours ago, sashaeffer said:

Find a hydroponics store in your area as they have a wide variety of media to grow plants in. Perlite comes in many sizes from small to about marble size. 

Thanks, will do.  Got one nearby.

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On 12/20/2019 at 5:13 PM, piping plovers said:

Fantastic specimen!  Something to aim for.   I can see this being a focal point in an interior planting under a large domed atrium or skylight.  How old would you say that palm is?  My largest indoor kentia is over 20 yrs and has no trunk yet showing.

If I find out how old that is, I'll let you know.

Over 20 years, nice!

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Hello, I have managed to grow a few Kentias successfully in a house environment all year round for several years now.  Here is my advice.  When I bought mine (probably came from a nursery in the Netherlands), the plants looked robust and superb. They were  about two foot tall and strangely enough,  they were seriously underpotted, placed in  pots  as small as a coffee cup. I took my cue from that and everytime I potted them up  I gave the roots just an inch of extra space at the bottom to expand into and even less space around the perimeter.  Free draining medium is a must  and  also a layer (an inch thick)  of  whatever material such as clay balls or even pieces of broken up stryrofoam to increase the drainage at the bottom.   Kentias are fine during winter in a sunny room but they are not too bothered if they  get just a gloomy light from a west-facing window, either. I never put Kentias out in summer because the sun would do a number on the leaves grown inside the house. 

I suspect your biggest enemy might be the heater, the radiators etc.  If you like to turn the heating up, your palm will not survive in this environment, in the same room.  Kentias can take low temperatures  (even 10-15 Celcius is no problem) for months.  I keep my Kentias in a room  where the radiator is turned on but  kept low and I don´t spend a lot of time in that room.  Another place where I keep this palm is a cool corridor (at 19 degrees Celsius).  

As for the watering,  in winter I give each palm just enough water to keep it from drying up.  I pour very little water into the container  to make the  very thin top layer of the medium moist (half an inch ) but I definitely don´t drench the whole rootball. I do this maybe once a week or once in 10 days. I often check how moist the medium is by sticking my finger in to be completely sure.  If I pour more water and drench the whole rootball,  the leaves start to die. The palms are not growing this time of the year with light being so dim so I just keep them alive until spring.  That is my trick and it works for me. 

When I air the rooms and the freezing or chilly air comes in, I always shove the containers behind some piece of furniture. I never leave any water in the trays/saucers  under the containers if any water seeps down there, especially not in winter.  Kentias don´t really need any humidifiers.  Watering sparingly once in a while and as far away from the heater as possible does the trick for me.  In order not to sound like a know-it-all, I confess I managed to kill one or two Kentias myself.  I killed one by trimming back the roots when repotting and another one was killed when my family turned the heating up too much while I was away and a big palm just dried up.  Good luck with growing palms and if you can´t provide similar conditions for Kentias, then it is better to grow other stuff.  Cheers.

 

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10 hours ago, Bismarckiafan said:

...I suspect your biggest enemy might be the heater, the radiators etc.  If you like to turn the heating up, your palm will not survive in this environment, in the same room.  Kentias can take low temperatures  (even 10-15 Celcius is no problem) for months.  I keep my Kentias in a room  where the radiator is turned on but  kept low and I don´t spend a lot of time in that room.  Another place where I keep this palm is a cool corridor (at 19 degrees Celsius). ..

 

It's interesting to me that you mentioned the indoor radiator heating.  The house I lived in previously had no central heat, but did have a manual propane heater.  In the winter I kept the house at approx. 50 degrees F to 62 degrees F or 10 - 15 degrees Celsius (yes I like it cool and I didn't trust the manual propane heater to be operating when I was sleeping or at work).  Anyhow, the kentias grew very well indoors in those winter conditions for 9 years.  Each held many fronds, and rarely ever any brown tips.  The past 2 years, however, my kentias are growing in another house where temps are approx. 70F at night, dry radiator heat, and approx. 60F at day  or 21 -16 Celsius ( not my choosing but out of my control right now).  They kentias have more browning tips than ever in these past 2 years which I keep trimming.  Anyway, in case that is helpful to anyone with similar issues.  Also, with those chilly indoor conditions mentioned above, I didn't dare overwater them.  I feared rotting them.  They almost had to argue with me to get watering in the wintertime :))

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19 hours ago, Bismarckiafan said:

Hello, I have managed to grow a few Kentias successfully in a house environment all year round for several years now.  Here is my advice.  When I bought mine (probably came from a nursery in the Netherlands), the plants looked robust and superb. They were  about two foot tall and strangely enough,  they were seriously underpotted, placed in  pots  as small as a coffee cup. I took my cue from that and everytime I potted them up  I gave the roots just an inch of extra space at the bottom to expand into and even less space around the perimeter.  Free draining medium is a must  and  also a layer (an inch thick)  of  whatever material such as clay balls or even pieces of broken up stryrofoam to increase the drainage at the bottom.   Kentias are fine during winter in a sunny room but they are not too bothered if they  get just a gloomy light from a west-facing window, either. I never put Kentias out in summer because the sun would do a number on the leaves grown inside the house. 

I suspect your biggest enemy might be the heater, the radiators etc.  If you like to turn the heating up, your palm will not survive in this environment, in the same room.  Kentias can take low temperatures  (even 10-15 Celcius is no problem) for months.  I keep my Kentias in a room  where the radiator is turned on but  kept low and I don´t spend a lot of time in that room.  Another place where I keep this palm is a cool corridor (at 19 degrees Celsius).  

As for the watering,  in winter I give each palm just enough water to keep it from drying up.  I pour very little water into the container  to make the  very thin top layer of the medium moist (half an inch ) but I definitely don´t drench the whole rootball. I do this maybe once a week or once in 10 days. I often check how moist the medium is by sticking my finger in to be completely sure.  If I pour more water and drench the whole rootball,  the leaves start to die. The palms are not growing this time of the year with light being so dim so I just keep them alive until spring.  That is my trick and it works for me. 

When I air the rooms and the freezing or chilly air comes in, I always shove the containers behind some piece of furniture. I never leave any water in the trays/saucers  under the containers if any water seeps down there, especially not in winter.  Kentias don´t really need any humidifiers.  Watering sparingly once in a while and as far away from the heater as possible does the trick for me.  In order not to sound like a know-it-all, I confess I managed to kill one or two Kentias myself.  I killed one by trimming back the roots when repotting and another one was killed when my family turned the heating up too much while I was away and a big palm just dried up.  Good luck with growing palms and if you can´t provide similar conditions for Kentias, then it is better to grow other stuff.  Cheers.

 

Thanks for the great advice. 

In the winter our house is always set at 68F steady and I don't worry about dry air blowing on any of my palms they way I have them arranged.

Of the one Kentia that I have(was 3 to a pot) 1 dieds, 1 is looking bad and the 3rd looks decent still.  After taking the palms and cocoa choir soil out of the pot it came in the bottom 1/4th to 1/3rd was still wet while the rest bone dry. I'm convinced more now than ever that Kentias when indoors do NOT like virtually any wetness around the roots at all.

 

I sprayed the roots with Hydrogen Peroxide and shook as much soil off as I could and then added only perlite back into the pot with a layer of it as well at the bottom of the pot. We'll see if that is enough to save the last of the 3 plants in the pot.

I'm making another trip to San Diego(flying) but driving back here in a couple of weeks so will try and find 1 or 2 that I can fit into the car I will be in and try again, but removing the soil they come in and swap it out for as much perlite as I can and see if that helps, along with a very adjusted watering plan(like almost none) and see what happens.

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To  sashaeffer:   I am glad if my tips are of any help.  I appreciate your unwavering enthusiasm for growing palms indoors.  Those Vershaffeltias look great. They used to be one of my Holy Grails.  I rotted more seeds than I care to remember. 

To piping plovers: You are obviously an expert on Kentias. The one in the photo is a palm grown to perfection. I agree with your previous comment that Kentias can take over the house, given time.  I am more brutal in my efforts to make them look tall and slim. I usually keep 3-4 fronds on a palm and I cut off the rest. I know many would disapprove but I like the look more.

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On 11/24/2019 at 4:19 AM, sashaeffer said:

Ok, have done searches both here in forums and online.  Kentia palms (both species) are usually mentioned as one of the top 5 indoor palms to have.

I have a "3 try rule" with palms and will throw in the towel after that but that generally is on species that have little known about them as indoor palms.

Kentia palms are gorgeous but crazy expensive to buy here in Nebraska. I'm lucky in that even mail order or when I make road trips to California they are a dime a dozen and pretty cheap to buy.

I have tried at least 10? times of various sizes. Some single, others 3/4 in a pot.  When left outside in dappled light here in the summer they get very ample rain and seem to do just great and almost fast growers it seems. Yet, when I bring them indoors when weather turns colder that is when the issue starts OR when I buy one and keep it indoor right away.

All are in the same pot and soil they have been in.

When watered I have only used RO water, collected rain water, bottled water or water from our well that has been filtered first. All same result.

None have been kept in any direct sun, but in bright rooms.

This last one to die came from Hawaii by the volcanic media the single palm was in so drained super fast, yet I only watered it like most other palms in my house(I have over 100) fronds slowly discolor, turn brown(but not dried out) and palm finally dies.

Just got back from another road trip to San Diego and bought a nice 4 palms in 5 gallon container and soil looks to be 100% cocoa choir and sticker says from Hawaii. Palm sits in corner of bedroom on table and only gets bright natural light in the mornings but LED floor lamp close by keeps it in light all day. So far still looks ok after being here for 2 weeks.

So...question is, what is the magic care solution on these beauties. I would love to buy a much larger one, but really need to figure out what the care issue is for this species. Tired of reading how great they are indoors yet can't keep one alive myself.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

As a side note, we have two premier nurseries here in the Omaha, NE area. One of those sold Kentia palms. These were in 15? gallon containers and rarely sold because of the price which was $600-$800. These were 3/4 to a pot and about 3 feet tall is all.  I had become friends with the tropical plant manager there and when I didn't see them anymore she told me they were going to stop carrying them because when they would get bought they would then die and customers wanted their money back, so then I started to wonder if it was environmental change is what do that species in.

Have you tried a product called garden phos? It helps with root rot.

Modesto, CA USDA 9b

July/August average 95f/63f

Dec/Jan average 55f/39f

Average lowest winter temp 27f

Record low temp 18f

Record high temp 113f

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