pennerchris@gmail.com Posted November 10, 2018 Report Share Posted November 10, 2018 Here's how I'm attempting to protect my palms: I wrapped a couple of little filiferas in Christmas lights and attached a thermo cube. I've done this to just the trunk before and it was fine, but in my climate I can expect total defoliation every year. I'm trying to avoid that by binding the fronds and wrapping all the way to the top. Is there any way this will backfire on me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Mondel Posted November 10, 2018 Report Share Posted November 10, 2018 If it's covered in ice it may die. Why not place a garbage can over it during ice/snow? 1 Los Angeles, CA and Myrtle Beach, SC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GottmitAlex Posted November 10, 2018 Report Share Posted November 10, 2018 How tall is it? 5 year high 42.2C/108F (07/06/2018)--5 year low 4.6C/40.3F (1/19/2023)--Lowest recent/current winter: 4.6C/40.3F (1/19/2023) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC_Palms Posted November 11, 2018 Report Share Posted November 11, 2018 I second what Brad said. Definitely would recommend a trash can or some other protective covering. Zone 8a Greenville, NC Zone 8b/9a Bluffton, SC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pennerchris@gmail.com Posted November 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2018 1 hour ago, NC_Palms said: I second what Brad said. Definitely would recommend a trash can or some other protective covering. 4 hours ago, Brad Mondel said: If it's covered in ice it may die. Why not place a garbage can over it during ice/snow? 4 hours ago, Brad Mondel said: If it's covered in ice it may die. Why not place a garbage can over it during ice/snow? 4 hours ago, Brad Mondel said: If it's covered in ice it may die. Why not place a garbage can over it during ice/s 4 hours ago, Brad Mondel said: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pennerchris@gmail.com Posted November 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2018 Idk why my last reply posted like that!!? Anyway; I'm not opposed to using a trash can, but I was looking for a method that wouldn't require me to check the forecast every night and run outside to cover it all the time. We do have occasional winter rain/snow here in west Texas, but we're very dry for the most part. Does that change anything, or would you still opt for the trash can method? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC_Palms Posted November 11, 2018 Report Share Posted November 11, 2018 35 minutes ago, pennerchris@gmail.com said: Idk why my last reply posted like that!!? Anyway; I'm not opposed to using a trash can, but I was looking for a method that wouldn't require me to check the forecast every night and run outside to cover it all the time. We do have occasional winter rain/snow here in west Texas, but we're very dry for the most part. Does that change anything, or would you still opt for the trash can method? Palms are usually hardier in dry climates. I think they are growing Washingtonia and Phoenix in the 7b areas of West Texas and New Mexico. I would think a trash can would work but there are many other options. When I use to live in PA 6b, I covered all my trachycarpus with a frost cloth, towels and Christmas lights. Zone 8a Greenville, NC Zone 8b/9a Bluffton, SC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyt Posted November 11, 2018 Report Share Posted November 11, 2018 Pennerchris, consider over wrapping the palm now with white nursery frost cloth. It will keep the temp about 9 degrees above the ambient alone. With the lights even more. It is breathable and lets water in and out, and light in. It is similar to frost blankets you can buy in the big box stores. I have used it several years with success. Jimmyt 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Posted November 11, 2018 Report Share Posted November 11, 2018 This may be more than you want to do but 4 of the smaller wood stakes in the ground with a pegboard top is what I use. Note Overlapping top covered in plastic - angled for runoff Vented all around just under top Stapled 6mil plastic around black weed fabric on side that gets sun to prevent super hot temps Palm inside is wrapped in burlap/Christmas lights/thermocube and has a temp sensor. Stays dry/not overly humid this way YouTube https://www.youtube.com/@tntropics - 60+ In-ground 7A palms - (Sabal) minor(7 large + 27 seedling size, 3 dwarf), brazoria(1) , birmingham(4), etonia (1) louisiana(5), palmetto (1), riverside (1), (Trachycarpus) fortunei(7), wagnerianus(1), Rhapidophyllum hystrix(7), 15' Mule-Butia x Syagrus(1), Blue Butia capitata(1) +Tons of tropical plants. Recent Yearly Lows -1F, 12F, 11F, 18F, 16F, 3F, 3F, 6F, 3F, 1F, 16F, 17F, 6F, 8F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pennerchris@gmail.com Posted November 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2018 18 hours ago, Allen said: This may be more than you want to do but 4 of the smaller wood stakes in the ground with a pegboard top is what I use. Note Overlapping top covered in plastic - angled for runoff Vented all around just under top Stapled 6mil plastic around black weed fabric on side that gets sun to prevent super hot temps Palm inside is wrapped in burlap/Christmas lights/thermocube and has a temp sensor. Stays dry/not overly humid this way Impressive, but that would be overkill for out here... Where are you located? Do you just plan to do that while they're young? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyt Posted November 12, 2018 Report Share Posted November 12, 2018 This is what I use on my bigger palms. Wrap the cable around the crown and some on the trunk, connected to a central thermostat. (W. filiferas, and P.dactyliferas). Mildly spendy to start but last years, and is re-useable again and again. I have not lost a palm yet that I have used these on. Last winter's low was 8 degree F for several hours. EasyHeat PSR Self-Regulating Heat Trace EASYHEAT, your industry leader in pipe freeze prevention and roof-and-gutter deicing applications, introduces PSR pre-terminated self-regulating cable. Imagine the convenience: each PSR cable is a pre-terminated, wet location, off-the-shelf product with the efficiency and functionality of self-regulating technology. With this built-in application flexibility, PSR becomes a first-choice solution for your heat tracing needs Description Prevent Water Pipes From Freezing Prevent the Formation of Ice Dams on Rooftops Suitable for Use on Metal and Plastic Pipes up to 2 ½" in Diameter Self-Regulating Heating Cable Means Energy Efficiency 120 & 240 VAC Pilot Light on Plug on 120 VAC Models UL Listed CSA Certified Each PSR cable is pre-assembled for quick selection and easy installation. Select from lengths of 6', 12', 18', 24', 50', 75' and 100' right off the shelf. All cables use a 30" cold lead (the 30 inches of cold lead is not part of the specified length of the cable - i.e. the 6 ft cable is 8.5 feet long total with 6' of heated cable.) PSR accommodates water pipe diameters from ½" to 2½". For roof and gutter areas, usually one PSR cable will be sufficient. PSR 120 VAC heating cables use a power indicator light in the plug, visual assurance that the system is working. Using self-regulating technology, no thermostat is required: overlap the cable with no more overheating worries. Self-regulating heating cable varies its heat output in relation to the ambient temperature. As the surrounding temperature increases, the heat of the PSR™ cable decreases. When the temperature decreases, the cable heat increases along the length of the cable. The PSR system can be installed with the confidence that it will operate for years without requiring service. When it comes to freeze protection, stay with the leader - EASYHEAT Just my 2 cents......... jimmyt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJ Posted November 12, 2018 Report Share Posted November 12, 2018 1 hour ago, jimmyt said: This is what I use on my bigger palms. Wrap the cable around the crown and some on the trunk, connected to a central thermostat. (W. filiferas, and P.dactyliferas). Mildly spendy to start but last years, and is re-useable again and again. I have not lost a palm yet that I have used these on. Last winter's low was 8 degree F for several hours. Just my 2 cents......... jimmyt Jimmy, I like the idea, it's similar to what Walt does for his Coco in the winter. Do you also cover/wrap the palm? Any pictures of the finished product? Thanks RJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Posted November 12, 2018 Report Share Posted November 12, 2018 I'm in zone 7a TN. Last ear low was 0F with -15F wind chill. Any small palms can use this method. Larger palms can be treated with another method. There are a couple potential problems using heating tape. One if it's not in 'contact' with a metal pipe it can overheat itself and two it is not rated to be wrapped. It is supposed to lay straight on one side of a pipe. In my opinion small Christmas lights are superior if you can keep them dry to avoid any gfci issues. YouTube https://www.youtube.com/@tntropics - 60+ In-ground 7A palms - (Sabal) minor(7 large + 27 seedling size, 3 dwarf), brazoria(1) , birmingham(4), etonia (1) louisiana(5), palmetto (1), riverside (1), (Trachycarpus) fortunei(7), wagnerianus(1), Rhapidophyllum hystrix(7), 15' Mule-Butia x Syagrus(1), Blue Butia capitata(1) +Tons of tropical plants. Recent Yearly Lows -1F, 12F, 11F, 18F, 16F, 3F, 3F, 6F, 3F, 1F, 16F, 17F, 6F, 8F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyt Posted November 12, 2018 Report Share Posted November 12, 2018 8 minutes ago, Allen said: I'm in zone 7a TN. Last ear low was 0F with -15F wind chill. Any small palms can use this method. Larger palms can be treated with another method. There are a couple potential problems using heating tape. One if it's not in 'contact' with a metal pipe it can overheat itself and two it is not rated to be wrapped. It is supposed to lay straight on one side of a pipe. In my opinion small Christmas lights are superior if you can keep them dry to avoid any gfci issues. Allen, These are not heating tapes. These are Gutter heater cables that can be overlapped without overheating., Low wattage; it is warm not hot. These are for wet locations. I can hold it in my hand while it is on without concern. I wrap the crown and some of the trunk like a candy cane stripe. Usually I do not overlap the cable but sometimes I do, and without consequences. These cables are mildy stiff so wrapping a small palm would not work but anything about 2" and bigger they will wrap. Otherwise you could buy the shorter version and apply it as straight line on the trunk into the crown possibly then bring it back down the other side the trunk. I do not over wrap with cloth as it is nearly impossible to wrap the crown(most important part) on a washingtonia or phoenix due to the spines(spineless varieties might be a different story). Christmas lights will work ok but the cable will lay flat against the palm trunk or crown which allows for better direct transfer of heat in my opinion. RJ, I do not have any current pictures but will likely have some in the next 2 weeks as I will put the cables up on the palms. Tonight's low is only 28F. When it starts to get into the low 20's and teens, then I have a problem. I will try to post a picture then. jimmyt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Posted November 12, 2018 Report Share Posted November 12, 2018 I researched the heating cables a bit and it does look like they will not overheat. I like that they are water tight but not that they are inflexible in putting around the fronds/spear/etc. Looks like every 2' of cord is 10 watts so a 8' cord puts out the same heat as 100 mini Christmas lights or 40 watts. With either method if you don't wrap over these with burlap/frost cloth or covering , you will lose a lot of heat. Small palms need 50-100 Christmas lights here for me and my 8' tall one will get about 300. I think I can cover palms here up to about 12' tall with out much difficulty. For the original poster if you don't waterproof the cords in your pic you will have a gfci trip during rains. YouTube https://www.youtube.com/@tntropics - 60+ In-ground 7A palms - (Sabal) minor(7 large + 27 seedling size, 3 dwarf), brazoria(1) , birmingham(4), etonia (1) louisiana(5), palmetto (1), riverside (1), (Trachycarpus) fortunei(7), wagnerianus(1), Rhapidophyllum hystrix(7), 15' Mule-Butia x Syagrus(1), Blue Butia capitata(1) +Tons of tropical plants. Recent Yearly Lows -1F, 12F, 11F, 18F, 16F, 3F, 3F, 6F, 3F, 1F, 16F, 17F, 6F, 8F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pennerchris@gmail.com Posted November 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2018 Allen, do you lose your fronds annually? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tropicdoc Posted November 12, 2018 Report Share Posted November 12, 2018 I highly recommend bubble foil instead of frost cloth. It is insulated and waterproof and also can stand on its own when rolled into a cylinder which makes it easy to wrap around an already bundled palm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Posted November 13, 2018 Report Share Posted November 13, 2018 (edited) No I don't lose any fronds or any cold damage. I have mainly trachy and sabal varieties so they are tough anyway. Edited November 13, 2018 by Allen YouTube https://www.youtube.com/@tntropics - 60+ In-ground 7A palms - (Sabal) minor(7 large + 27 seedling size, 3 dwarf), brazoria(1) , birmingham(4), etonia (1) louisiana(5), palmetto (1), riverside (1), (Trachycarpus) fortunei(7), wagnerianus(1), Rhapidophyllum hystrix(7), 15' Mule-Butia x Syagrus(1), Blue Butia capitata(1) +Tons of tropical plants. Recent Yearly Lows -1F, 12F, 11F, 18F, 16F, 3F, 3F, 6F, 3F, 1F, 16F, 17F, 6F, 8F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJ Posted November 13, 2018 Report Share Posted November 13, 2018 16 hours ago, jimmyt said: RJ, I do not have any current pictures but will likely have some in the next 2 weeks as I will put the cables up on the palms. Tonight's low is only 28F. When it starts to get into the low 20's and teens, then I have a problem. I will try to post a picture then. jimmyt Jimmy, sounds great I look forward to the pics and certainly appreciate it. Cheers! -RJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSKeys Posted November 15, 2018 Report Share Posted November 15, 2018 (edited) On 11/11/2018, 6:26:38, Allen said: This may be more than you want to do but 4 of the smaller wood stakes in the ground with a pegboard top is what I use. Note Overlapping top covered in plastic - angled for runoff Vented all around just under top Stapled 6mil plastic around black weed fabric on side that gets sun to prevent super hot temps Palm inside is wrapped in burlap/Christmas lights/thermocube and has a temp sensor. Stays dry/not overly humid this way What palms are you protecting? I'm in 7a and first year my palms may get a cover of plastic green house, no supplemental heating, second year I may put up a burlap windbreak to protect from burn, and then after that they are on their own (not counting a application of mulch in the fall). I have S. minors, T. fortunei and R. hystrix and they have been doing well. Edited November 15, 2018 by JSKeys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Posted November 16, 2018 Report Share Posted November 16, 2018 (edited) Trachy fortunei and waggie. I think you'll lose your trachy palms in 7a with no protection unless placed really well even then probably on many winters. The sabal minors and needle will be fine. Trachy will get damage below 14F IMO. Wind chill/rain and duration all have to be taken into account as well as size/establishment of palm. Edited November 16, 2018 by Allen YouTube https://www.youtube.com/@tntropics - 60+ In-ground 7A palms - (Sabal) minor(7 large + 27 seedling size, 3 dwarf), brazoria(1) , birmingham(4), etonia (1) louisiana(5), palmetto (1), riverside (1), (Trachycarpus) fortunei(7), wagnerianus(1), Rhapidophyllum hystrix(7), 15' Mule-Butia x Syagrus(1), Blue Butia capitata(1) +Tons of tropical plants. Recent Yearly Lows -1F, 12F, 11F, 18F, 16F, 3F, 3F, 6F, 3F, 1F, 16F, 17F, 6F, 8F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyt Posted November 19, 2018 Report Share Posted November 19, 2018 Ok this is what I do for my Washys and Date palms: (on the border of 8a/8b). I really just used this when I first planted them (2-3 years) and could likely stop but..... Single digit temps last year worry me. One could over wrap the trunk but I figure the critical part is the crown. Trying to wrap the crown on Washys and Dates is impossible. The plugs light up on the PSR cable so that you can tell when they are on. The cables can overlap on the tree without fear of over heating. I link the all to a corded greenhouse wet location thermostat. The smallest date has a 6 ft PSR cable on it. The large Washy has a 50 ft PSR cable. It is all on a GFCI circuit just in case. Very small in ground palms could just get frost cloth tent and a short PSR cable or other mild heat source. The yellow stick is a yard-stick The tallest Washy is about 13 ft to leaf bases at the crown. Just my way not the best way................. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJ Posted November 19, 2018 Report Share Posted November 19, 2018 (edited) Jimmy thanks so much. Appreciate it. So your thermostat is measures just the ambient temperature from a remote (but close enough) distance to the palms. What set points to you use if you don't mind me asking? Those are CIDP's? I take it? -RJ Edited November 19, 2018 by RJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdsonofthesouth Posted November 19, 2018 Report Share Posted November 19, 2018 (edited) On 11/15/2018, 12:14:49, JSKeys said: What palms are you protecting? I'm in 7a and first year my palms may get a cover of plastic green house, no supplemental heating, second year I may put up a burlap windbreak to protect from burn, and then after that they are on their own (not counting a application of mulch in the fall). I have S. minors, T. fortunei and R. hystrix and they have been doing well. Careful as I did this last year and when the surprise warm up happened my palms cooked. Honestly we haven't had anything yet to hurt what palms you have and I wouldnt protect them til we drop bellow 20 for night time lows. Be sure to air them out on warm days and keep tabs on the temps inside the enclosure. Edited November 19, 2018 by mdsonofthesouth 1 LOWS 16/17 12F, 17/18 3F, 18/19 7F, 19/20 20F Palms growing in my garden: Trachycarpus Fortunei, Chamaerops Humilis, Chamaerops Humilis var. Cerifera, Rhapidophyllum Hystrix, Sabal Palmetto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Posted November 19, 2018 Report Share Posted November 19, 2018 ^^^^^^^^ Black out this type setup with landscape cloth and vent or it will fry YouTube https://www.youtube.com/@tntropics - 60+ In-ground 7A palms - (Sabal) minor(7 large + 27 seedling size, 3 dwarf), brazoria(1) , birmingham(4), etonia (1) louisiana(5), palmetto (1), riverside (1), (Trachycarpus) fortunei(7), wagnerianus(1), Rhapidophyllum hystrix(7), 15' Mule-Butia x Syagrus(1), Blue Butia capitata(1) +Tons of tropical plants. Recent Yearly Lows -1F, 12F, 11F, 18F, 16F, 3F, 3F, 6F, 3F, 1F, 16F, 17F, 6F, 8F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyt Posted November 20, 2018 Report Share Posted November 20, 2018 7 hours ago, RJ said: Jimmy thanks so much. Appreciate it. So your thermostat is measures just the ambient temperature from a remote (but close enough) distance to the palms. What set points to you use if you don't mind me asking? Those are CIDP's? I take it? -RJ Yes the thermostat is about 6 ft from one of the palms, and another thermostat is tied under the canopy of the bigger Washy. These thermostats are analog dial and range from 30-110 F. I have them set at 30-32 F. The Phoenix is supposed to be true date palm. I do not know the variety. I do not use plastic covers/canopies due to weather changes. In the winter here it goes from the teens to the eighties. Unless the plastic is removed when it gets that hot the plants will cook. I use nursery frost cloth. Frost cloth wont burn the plants when it’s warm but keeps the plants about 9 F warmer than the air temp. jimmyt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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