Sandy Loam Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 Apparently, there are relatively few owners of the hybrid butia capitata (or odorata) x parajubaea cocoides. For those of you who own one, what has been your experience as regards leaf burn. At what low temperature do you experience any more than slight damage to the foliage? I am aware of one that was damaged during the December cold snap in northern California, but it was a small one. Any other reports would be useful and much appreciated. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffy Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 Mine were damaged at 26F with snow last year. Longview, Texas :: Record Low: -5F, Feb. 16, 2021 :: Borderline 8A/8B :: '06-'07: 18F / '07-'08: 21F / '08-'09: 21F / '09-'10: 14F / '10-'11: 15F / '11-'12: 24F / '12-'13: 23F / '13-'14: 15F / '14-'15: 20F / '15-'16: 27F / '16-'17: 15F / '17-'18: 8F / '18-'19: 23F / '19-'20: 19F / '20-'21: -5F / '21-'22: 20F / '22-'23: 6F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Loam Posted February 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 Hi Buffy. How much damage did yours show at 26 degrees Fahrenheit? Was it total defoliation or just burning on the leaf tips? Was 26 F for just a matter of minutes or was it a prolonged freeze? I see that you are not far from the Dallas area. If so, you are much colder than me. My winter temperatures are perhaps more like those of Houston. I have certainly never seen snow here. Do you need to cover your BxPJC a couple of nights each winter? I was really hoping that it would be hardy enough to avoid any covering -- ever. If it is hardy like a Syagrus Romanzoffiana, I would never have to cover it here on those unique cold events. I look forward to your comments. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauna Kea Cloudforest Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 You can find some valuable information from Edith Bergstrom, she grows three BxPC, and all are hardy enough to handle the cold at her place. I've seen them last Summer, they're in perfect shape while right next to them a phoenix rupicola was burned pretty bad. To give you an example of the degree of cold, see http://www.palmgardensbergstrom.com/freeze_2007/06-08-article.pdf, this is a nice article on the damage the 2007 freeze did to her garden. You should also check the freeze hardiness section on this palm at http://www.palmtalk.org/forum/index.php?/topic/3269-butia-x-parajubaea/. Seems it can take dry freezes down to the low 20's but is sensitive to ice on the leaves. Edit: while reading the article, I was able to extract the info for BxPC: Butia x Parajubaea, 5% burn damage after the following conditions: Twelve December nights were between 26° and 32°. The remaining were in the 30s and 40s. We had five nights below 32° in early January before dropping to 23°, 17° and 18° (twice), on successive nights, (January 12-15th). That was followed by seven more nights below freezing, one down to 24°. The rest remained in the 30s and 40s. February saw four freezes and four other nights in the 30s, but most nights were in the 40s. March had one freeze and three nights in the 30s. April had only one night in the 30s, but many in the 40s. A washingtonia in her garden got 10% damage, so slightly more than the BxPC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Loam Posted February 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 Thanks, Axel. I will read all those sources and I really appreciate the excerpt. Although hybrids can exhibit significant variation from one to another, I don't expect a BxPJC to receive any damage here, based on the description you provided above. I must also read the article for information on the growth rate of the BxPJC. Dick in Walnut Creek, CA has a thread on palmtalk about his BxPJC growing extremely quickly. However, his may be an exception due to the vast variation from one hybrid to another. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauna Kea Cloudforest Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Thanks, Axel. I will read all those sources and I really appreciate the excerpt. Although hybrids can exhibit significant variation from one to another, I don't expect a BxPJC to receive any damage here, based on the description you provided above. I must also read the article for information on the growth rate of the BxPJC. Dick in Walnut Creek, CA has a thread on palmtalk about his BxPJC growing extremely quickly. However, his may be an exception due to the vast variation from one hybrid to another. I have one, it is the fastest palm I own bar none. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kailua_Krish Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I had a problem with this one if we had rain before a freeze. The spear would pull for the first few years every winter and it slowed down the plant a lot. It seems to have outgrown this though and now has started to pick up some speed. -Krishna Kailua, Oahu HI. Near the beach but dry! Still have a garden in Zone 9a Inland North Central Florida (Ocala) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 I had a problem with this one if we had rain before a freeze. The spear would pull for the first few years every winter and it slowed down the plant a lot. It seems to have outgrown this though and now has started to pick up some speed. Mine seems to have the same problem. Had a little frost and half the spear crapped out. Seems to be fine though. Very similar to what happens to young mules. Hopefully it will outgrow it as well. Gave this palm some prime real estate so I hope it doesn't turn out to be a dud. Looks perfect, other than the spear being a bit beat up. Jason Gainesville, Florida Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeeth Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Can you Florida guys post some pics of you BXP.c's? I'm curious to see if they look much different from the California ones. Keith Palmetto, Florida (10a) and Tampa, Florida (9b/10a) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjff Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 My experience was dry cold it can handle into the high teens, frost or snow and you were going to have leaf damage. I'm growing several more, but leaving them in the greenhouse until they trunk at which point they should be much cold hardier if my experience with other palms is any indication. Martin Farris, San Angelo, TX San Angelo Cold Hardy Palms and Cycads Jul - 92F/69F, Jan - 55F/31F Lows: 02-03: 18F; 03-04: 19F; 04-05: 17F; 05-06: 11F; 06-07: 13F; 07-08: 14F 147.5 Freezing Degree-Hours http://www.palmtalk.org/forum/index.php?sh...ee+hours\; 08-09: 23F; 09-10: 12F 467.6 Freezing Degree Hours, Average Temperature During Freeze 24.2F; 10-11: 13F 1,059.5 Freezing Degree Hours with Strong Winds/Rain/Snow/Sleet, Average Temperature During Freeze 19.4F; Record low -4F in 1989 (High of 36F that p.m.) 1,125.2 freezing degree hours, Average Temperature During Freeze 13.6F; Record Freeze 1983: 2,300.3 Freezing Degree Hours with a low of 5F, Average Temperature During Freeze 13.7F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon T Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 My experiences mirror Tank's and Krishnaraoji88's. I was impatient enough to plant a sweet tiny strap-leafed butia x parajubaea from Patric, and it's been in the ground for two cold winters here. I too lost the spear last spring after a half-dozen Dec-Jan 21-24F temps and no protection most of those nights. There was no significant foliage damage, and the plant recovered to produce two decent strap leaves last summer. And now, early this December we had two nights that bottomed out at 17 and 19F. Though I wasn't smart enough to cover it on our first cold night at 26 degrees, I have since religiously protected it with three thick jumbo beach towels tucked nicely over a snazzy framework that keeps it almost toasty. BUT I noticed that the cute little new spear it's been pushing through our record-warm January is tan on one side, like Tank described. No frost or snow, just one uncovered night of 26 apparently did that. I'm thinking it's just too small to be planted out in my 9a climate, and there's not enough caliper to the "trunk" to protect the growing point. I have seen this in other cocosoids including parajubaea torallyii, and even tough ones like jubaea and butia will show up with latent spear damage in spring after zero leaf burn. The good news is that they usually recover. And Sandy Loam, you should be fine if you cover a butia x parajubaea carefully on cold nights, but remember all bets are off if you plant too small or get one of those every-twenty-years 8a events. Jon T-Central CA coastal valley foothills-9A Forever seeking juania australis... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mulungu Posted February 8, 2014 Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 Hi Sandy Loam, My experiences are fairly similar to those of others who have shared here. I am in a suburb on the outskirts of San Antonio, TX about 20 miles northeast of downtown. Although my town is an exact latitude match for the University of Florida campus, we generally get colder than Gainesville in winter. In fact, in bad Arctic blasts we can dip to the bottom of zone 8b and even into 8a range temps for several hours. In the polar vortex cold event in January, my young Butia odorata X P. cocoides, about 6 feet overall height, took an overnight low of 14*F without protection, with about 60% burn to the fronds (about the same level of damage as to locally common Washingtonia). Before that, there was no visible damage with multiple dry, brief freezes to the mid 20s, and one to the low 20s. Although freezing precipitation is uncommon here, this year there was a subsequent ice storm and more recently, soft hail (graupel), which brought the frond damage up to about 70%. However, I am not very concerned about it... the spear is tight for now, and the palm is not giving off precarious vibes (unlike a baby B. paraguayensis x P. cocoides, which defoliated, lost its spear, and appears to have one foot in the grave). I cannot help but feel that if your climate's winter temperatures can sustain queen palms long term (which my area does not), B X P will almost certainly be cold hardy for you as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Loam Posted February 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 What are everyone's experiences with this palm's soil requirements? The Butia parent should not have any problem with my clay soil, but the parajubaea cocoides parent may prefer high draining, coarse material as soil. Any thoughts or experiences? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauna Kea Cloudforest Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 What are everyone's experiences with this palm's soil requirements? The Butia parent should not have any problem with my clay soil, but the parajubaea cocoides parent may prefer high draining, coarse material as soil. Any thoughts or experiences? Thanks. Where do you get the notion that parajubaea doesn't like clay? You can grow parajubaea in any kind of soil provided it's not a bog or swamp. They're street trees in Ecuador. About as low maintenance as it gets. Mine rarely get fertilized and they don't get any special care, yet they thrive and look better than any other palm I have. The cross BxPC should a slam dunk for you if you protect it from unusual cold, well worth spending $300 on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tank Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Can you Florida guys post some pics of you BXP.c's? I'm curious to see if they look much different from the California ones. My little guy planted out last summer Jason Gainesville, Florida Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikSJI Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 What are everyone's experiences with this palm's soil requirements? The Butia parent should not have any problem with my clay soil, but the parajubaea cocoides parent may prefer high draining, coarse material as soil. Any thoughts or experiences? Thanks. Where do you get the notion that parajubaea doesn't like clay? You can grow parajubaea in any kind of soil provided it's not a bog or swamp. They're street trees in Ecuador. About as low maintenance as it gets. Mine rarely get fertilized and they don't get any special care, yet they thrive and look better than any other palm I have. The cross BxPC should a slam dunk for you if you protect it from unusual cold, well worth spending $300 on. I am still in search of a steady source of Parajubaea pollen to get more of these out there. How are yours looking Axel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeeth Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 What are everyone's experiences with this palm's soil requirements? The Butia parent should not have any problem with my clay soil, but the parajubaea cocoides parent may prefer high draining, coarse material as soil. Any thoughts or experiences? Thanks. Where do you get the notion that parajubaea doesn't like clay? You can grow parajubaea in any kind of soil provided it's not a bog or swamp. They're street trees in Ecuador. About as low maintenance as it gets. Mine rarely get fertilized and they don't get any special care, yet they thrive and look better than any other palm I have. The cross BxPC should a slam dunk for you if you protect it from unusual cold, well worth spending $300 on. I am still in search of a steady source of Parajubaea pollen to get more of these out there. How are yours looking Axel? That would be cool! You should also work on some Syagrus X Parajubaea. (I wonder if S. amara X Parajubaea is possible). Keith Palmetto, Florida (10a) and Tampa, Florida (9b/10a) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikSJI Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 What are everyone's experiences with this palm's soil requirements? The Butia parent should not have any problem with my clay soil, but the parajubaea cocoides parent may prefer high draining, coarse material as soil. Any thoughts or experiences? Thanks. Where do you get the notion that parajubaea doesn't like clay? You can grow parajubaea in any kind of soil provided it's not a bog or swamp. They're street trees in Ecuador. About as low maintenance as it gets. Mine rarely get fertilized and they don't get any special care, yet they thrive and look better than any other palm I have. The cross BxPC should a slam dunk for you if you protect it from unusual cold, well worth spending $300 on. I am still in search of a steady source of Parajubaea pollen to get more of these out there. How are yours looking Axel? That would be cool! You should also work on some Syagrus X Parajubaea. (I wonder if S. amara X Parajubaea is possible). I have a tree climber so I have no problem going up some queens. I just need the pollen and ample amounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phoenikakias Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 I would not be so sure in every case of clay-soil and in every case of a climate with cool-wet season. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauna Kea Cloudforest Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 What are everyone's experiences with this palm's soil requirements? The Butia parent should not have any problem with my clay soil, but the parajubaea cocoides parent may prefer high draining, coarse material as soil. Any thoughts or experiences? Thanks. Where do you get the notion that parajubaea doesn't like clay? You can grow parajubaea in any kind of soil provided it's not a bog or swamp. They're street trees in Ecuador. About as low maintenance as it gets. Mine rarely get fertilized and they don't get any special care, yet they thrive and look better than any other palm I have. The cross BxPC should a slam dunk for you if you protect it from unusual cold, well worth spending $300 on. I am still in search of a steady source of Parajubaea pollen to get more of these out there. How are yours looking Axel? There's another spathe coming up on my parajubaea cocoides. Unlike the folks in Southern California, mine only blooms once a year. I will be glad to collect pollen. It's currently loaded with a crop of parajubaea x butia. Since my butia and parajubaea bloom at the same time, it makes it easy to do the cross here. But it produces plenty of pollen, so I'll be glad to share. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alberto Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 What are everyone's experiences with this palm's soil requirements? The Butia parent should not have any problem with my clay soil, but the parajubaea cocoides parent may prefer high draining, coarse material as soil. Any thoughts or experiences? Thanks. Some of my BxP shows clearly signs of K deficiency and other growing between them not, So i conclude some trees have a better adaptability to my sandy acid soil the others; With this palms I began with a K supplementation. Carambeí, 2nd tableland of the State Paraná , south Brazil. Alt:1030m. Native palms: Queen, B. eriospatha, B. microspadix, Allagoptera leucocalyx , A.campestris, Geonoma schottiana, Trithrinax acanthocoma. Subtr. climate, some frosty nights. No dry season. August: driest month. Rain:1700mm I am seeking for cold hardy palms! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tropicdoc Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 Good luck with the butia x parajubaea, Axel. I can tell you there is demand for these down here in the 9a gulf south. They look nicer than the mule imo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alicehunter2000 Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 Any pictures of trunking individuals? David Simms zone 9a on Highway 30a 200 steps from the Gulf in NW Florida 30 ft. elevation and sandy soil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tropicdoc Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 Still waiting on syagrus x parajybaea I paid lots of money for last year to Tim hopper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tropicdoc Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 Just orderd two butia x parajub from Patrick Schafer ...... Very expensive! Won't let them see below 32 F until they outgrow a 25 gallon pot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alicehunter2000 Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Pictures......they are worth a thousand words. ... David Simms zone 9a on Highway 30a 200 steps from the Gulf in NW Florida 30 ft. elevation and sandy soil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tropicdoc Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 OK David I will take some pics of their growth in 25 gallon tubs. They are going to overwinter in a pop up greenhouse this year. I am moving to my new place in 2 days. They will go in the ground April 1st. Not sure where yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alicehunter2000 Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 New place? .... sounds exciting. Does anyone have a comparison between B.Paraguyensis X COCOIDES and B. odorata X COCOIDES ? David Simms zone 9a on Highway 30a 200 steps from the Gulf in NW Florida 30 ft. elevation and sandy soil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tropicdoc Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 On the left is the dick Douglas palm odorata the next one is Patricks palm Paraguayensis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilles06 Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 those are beauty! elevation 328 feet distance from mediteranean sea 1,1 mile lowest t° 2009/2010 : 27F lowest t° 2008/2009 : 33F lowest t° 2007/2008 : 32F lowest t° 2006/2007 : 35F lowest t° 2005/2006 : 27F lowest t° 2004/2005 : 25F Historical lowest t° 1985 : 18F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alicehunter2000 Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 Paraguayensis o the two pictured are located near one another. Patrick's yard looks like desert whereas Dicks yard is more Pacific Northwest looking. I wonder if t he growing conditions effected the look of the palms. Dicks looks more lax leaf. It would be nice to have a size and trunk comparison between the two. People seem to gravitate toward the odorata .....does paraguayensis Have same size hairy trunk? Is the overall palm smaller as would be expected? What are the differences between the two? David Simms zone 9a on Highway 30a 200 steps from the Gulf in NW Florida 30 ft. elevation and sandy soil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tropicdoc Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 I wish I knew the answers to these questions. I can tell you I much prefer the look of Patrick's palm to Dick's. That big, fat trunk just doesn't do it for me. If my hybrids end up with that trunk, I will plant ginger underneath them to conceal the trunk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeeth Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 Patrick's palm looks like the pictures of the Florida B. X P. that I've seen. Keith Palmetto, Florida (10a) and Tampa, Florida (9b/10a) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghar41 Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 On the left is the dick Douglas palm odorata the next one is Patricks palm Paraguayensis Is the palm on the right Butia Paraguayensis X Parajubaea cocoides? If so, what is the location of the plant in the picture? Glenn Modesto, California Sunset Zone 14 USDA 9b Low Temp. 19F/-7C 12-20-1990 High Temp. 111F/43C 07-23-2006 Annual Average Precipitation 13.12 inches/yr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tropicdoc Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 I think it is the Paraguay cross but I'm not sure it supposedly it is Patricks own palm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben in Norcal Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Hi guys, The one on the right is my picture. It's a plant local to me here in Concord, not on Patric's property. Patric lives several hours north of here. It is however one of Patric's crosses. If I was to guess I would say it is an odorata - I think he started doing the paraguayensis more recently. But, that's a guess. Ben Ben RogersOn the border of Concord & Clayton in the East Bay hills - Elev 387 ft 37.95 °N, 121.94 °W My back yard weather station: http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/hdfForecast?query=37.954%2C-121.945&sp=KCACONCO37 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Loam Posted December 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 So in post no. 29, the palm on the left photo and the palm in the right photo are the exact same hybrid. Wow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben in Norcal Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Potentially. I didn't think it was a paraguayensis cross, but the form does look different. Ben RogersOn the border of Concord & Clayton in the East Bay hills - Elev 387 ft 37.95 °N, 121.94 °W My back yard weather station: http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/hdfForecast?query=37.954%2C-121.945&sp=KCACONCO37 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swolf Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Different Butia (Odorata) parents have been used, so that's a variable too. My early observation is that the two Butia types produce similar hybrids but the Paraguayensis parent creates a smaller hybrid with a thinner base/trunk. I hear cold hardiness varies but these hybrids are hard to beat all things considered. Maybe crosses with Sunkha will do a little better with severe frost&cold. I'm trying to grow a couple pure Sunkha but they're not doing too well (another subject as nothing seems to grow well under that Live Oak). Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alicehunter2000 Posted December 20, 2014 Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Different Butia (Odorata) parents have been used, so that's a variable too. My early observation is that the two Butia types produce similar hybrids but the Paraguayensis parent creates a smaller hybrid with a thinner base/trunk. Steve That sound promising.....smaller/thinner David Simms zone 9a on Highway 30a 200 steps from the Gulf in NW Florida 30 ft. elevation and sandy soil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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