Dypsis Cold Hardiness Questions

[JimR]

I am planning on adding some new palms this Spring an was thnking, among other things, of trying some Dypsis.  Can anyone guide me on the hardiness/requirements of D. sp. "orange crush", D. sp. "hawaiian punch", D. sp. "dark mealybug", and D. bejofo/a (the one with the red crownshaft)?

This is for my Rockport/Key Allegro garden, which ses a freeze about once evry 3-5 years.

Thanks to all.

[Tad]

plant them, enjoy them while you have them, when they freeze...go get some more and repeat the process.

[BS Man about Palms]

Yeah, shouldn't cost more than a thousand to come up with small ones to start with.........   if you can find them.....

[JD in the OC]

Orange Crush was reported by several Socal growers to have gone through our recent frost quite well...

[JimR]

Thanks for the replies.  I followed up on the Orange Crush references in the CA freeze threads.  That is encouraging.  Is anybody growing these (or other Dypses) in Texas or Florida?  What grows well in FL, often hates it in Texas.

[paulgila]

have you thought about d.decipiens? i don't have the other dypsis("dypses plural?) you mentioned but it did

better than most other palms in general in the freeze we had here.

[JimR]

I have thought also to add decipiens and decaryi.  Everything I have found about them suggests they should be sufficently hardy for Rockport.  The decaryi's, especially, started to appear several years ago and have fared very well.

[paulgila]

not mine.the leaves all "browned" severely while the decipiens just laughed.

[JimR]

That is interesting.  I was under the impression the decaryi was hardier.

[MattyB]

My Dypsis/Neophologa/Pink Crownshaft/Hawaiin Punch thingy spotted up last winter outside at temps around 35F.  This winter in the greenhouse it looks fine.  It does not like heat over 100F either.  Might not be a good choice for Texas.

[JimR]

That is good to know.  35F is reasonably rare (every 2 or 3 years), but our Summers are very hot and humid.  Heat index of 100F+ definitely happens every year and HI of 105F-110F are not uncommon.

[osideterry]

In my neighborhood Dypsis decaryi are pretty common, and they were the first to go in this last freeze. Kings showed damage next, followed by Areca and then Howeas.

[JimR]

I am truly amazed that your neighborhood Kings (alaexandriae or cunninghamii?) fared better than D. decaryi.  The folks I have talked to in the Rockport/Coastal Bend area (as well as my own observations of other people's plantings in the neighborhood) all suggested that decaryi are pretty much bulletproof, but any sort of King will be short term at best.  Maybe I should re-think putting in some Kings.

[JimR]

Could some of the difference here be due to the "type" of heat and cold we are talking about?  We do not get "dry" anything here.  Our cold is a moist cold and our hot is a humid hot.

[paulgila]

i have always heard that d.decaryi come from a pretty dry area.archontos may be better suited to humidity--they seem to do quite well in hawaii.

[palmsrgreat]

I'm growing decipiens and decaryi here in Houston. If you happened to see a photo I put up, my decipiens was covered in ice from the last storm and didn't even bat an eye. The decaryi is ok too. I'm also growing albofarinoso without any problems. Now my piccabean King got its leaves fried, but its already coming back with new growth.

[JimR]

Glad to hear about your experiences, PalmsRGreat.  Good to know that D. albofarinosa might be a good candidate as well.  Your king experience tallies with what I have heard about them in my area.

[KatyTX]

Some more anecdotal 'evidence' from Texas:

My d.decaryi was bronzed by the 29F low this winter.  My a.cunninghamianas haven't even shown a spot.  They look great.  

I have 1 d.decipiens in the ground - still pretty small (very slow so far).  I don't think the cold is slowing it down - the soil here is black death goo.  I have 2 more in pots that seem to be doing better.  When I get motivated, I'll have to do a big soil prep job and try to plant another one.

I haven't tried any other dypsis.  My yard doesn't get enough shade/protection to get them started.

Matt

[JimR]

(JimR @ Feb. 12 2007,12:49)

QUOTE

Thanks for the replies.  I followed up on the Orange Crush references in the CA freeze threads.  That is encouraging.  Is anybody growing these (or other Dypses) in Texas or Florida?  What grows well in FL, often hates it in Texas.

I meant "What grows well in CA often hates it in Texas."

[JimR]

Bump......

Another year on, anyone have any additional experiences with these? Last year, I ended up planting D. decipiens (no cold or wind damage, but pretty much no growth either), D. leptocheilos (lots or growth, no damage); D. decaryi (no damage, lots of bgrowth), D. santalucei (appears to be failing to thrive, but no obvious damage), D. ambositrae (did not make it, simply declined and passed), A. cunninghamia (moderate growth, a little wind/cold damage), A. maxima (no damage, more protected location, beginning to put on more growth). Last Winter was typically mild. We probably hit a low of 30F to 32F for short periods on 3 or 4 occasions. The Summer was typically hot and humid. If anything, it has generally been more consistently windy that usual. Thinking of trying D. sp. "pink crownshaft" and "orange crush" this year, if I can find the room. I am also hoping to make room for a Neoveitchia storkii, but I am running out of space.

Edited April 27, 2008 by JimR

[Davidl]

Jim I live in a 10a and I don't have a problem with kings until the 89 type freeze hits of course. Maybe its to hot there im not sure but cold should not hurt them in a 10a most of the time. The dypsis decipiens I think would be a good choice for you. Royals like likes of heat too.

[JimR]

We actually have two large royals taht have been in the ground for 2 years. They have done great.

[BS Man about Palms]

I think the pink and orange may have a go, but the neoveitchia may be a no go.

[JimR]

Don't tell me that. I love that black psuedo-crownshaft. I have also considered adding a Kentiopsis oliviformis. Thoughts on that?

[ruskinPalms]

First off, go ahead and try them all. Never hurts if you have the money to spend on them and you won't become disenchanted if they "cark it". You might be surprised by your successes. When a new palm hits the scene, growers are always cautious at first. Who would have thought that Bismarckia has a shot in 9A or even 8B? A. cunninghamiana really can take a windy freeze better than any other Archonto, but they are just as susceptible as any other when it comes to frost. A juvenile D. decaryi (like 3 gallon size) made it through 29F at my house untouched this winter, but so did my A. cunninghamiana so I can't draw any conclusions which is tougher. A. alexandrea is showing some latent dessication damage now, but damn, they grow fast so they are replacing fronds quickly now. A. alex and A. cunn are definitely worth trying in your area. D. lutescens, to stay on topic, has weak foliage that fries easily but I am guessing the canes might survive a once a winter freeze down to 26F or 27F, but if the cane gets hit with another frost or freeze in the same winter, even a mild freeze (32F), it probably with not make it.

[ruskinPalms]

Kentiopsis oliviformis is definitley worth trying too!

[Tyrone]

Don't tell me that. I love that black psuedo-crownshaft. I have also considered adding a Kentiopsis oliviformis. Thoughts on that?

Neoveitchia may be pushing it, but then I've never tried it. But if a black crownshaft is what you're after try a southern form Hyophorbe indica. It may not stay a blackish colour, but boy it looks good. I'll take a pic today, when it stops raining.

Best regards

Tyrone

[ruskinPalms]

Hyophorbes are always worth a try in a borderline 10A area. They have some resiliency to frosts a and freezes. I have seen fruiting, trunking spindles in Brandon and Riverview, FL - zone 9A areas if you believe the 1990 USDA map.

[street124]

Bump......

Another year on, anyone have any additional experiences with these? Last year, I ended up planting D. decipiens (no cold or wind damage, but pretty much no growth either), D. leptocheilos (lots or growth, no damage); D. decaryi (no damage, lots of bgrowth), D. santalucei (appears to be failing to thrive, but no obvious damage), D. ambositrae (did not make it, simply declined and passed), A. cunninghamia (moderate growth, a little wind/cold damage), A. maxima (no damage, more protected location, beginning to put on more growth). Last Winter was typically mild. We probably hit a low of 30F to 32F for short periods on 3 or 4 occasions. The Summer was typically hot and humid. If anything, it has generally been more consistently windy that usual. Thinking of trying D. sp. "pink crownshaft" and "orange crush" this year, if I can find the room. I am also hoping to make room for a Neoveitchia storkii, but I am running out of space.

Try Dypsis Carlsmithii it seems to be pretty forgiving as far as soil goes and here in Miami 10b low 37 this year it shows no sign of cold damage. Here it is much faster than what Ive purchased as orange crush (pilulifera, tsarvosira& orange crush) and isnt as picky about soil type> Decipiens hates it here so maybe thats good for you> Im with the others on neovetchias it was one of the few that showed any leaf burn this winterthat and areca macrocalx red crown that got toasted but always seems to come back JC

[Tyrone]

Here is my "black" Hyophorbe indica. It is about 6ft tall and amongst other close growing plants so I couldn't get a pic of the whole thing. I grew it from seed that arrived in the post in May 05, so it's very fast growing. Admittedly it's black in the crownshaft and petiole, and what teh trunk will look like I don't know. It may grow out of it and look green eventually.

Best regards

Tyrone

[Tyrone]

..

[ghar41]

I'm growing decipiens and decaryi here in Houston. If you happened to see a photo I put up, my decipiens was covered in ice from the last storm and didn't even bat an eye. The decaryi is ok too. I'm also growing albofarinoso without any problems. Now my piccabean King got its leaves fried, but its already coming back with new growth.

Houston's climate is interesting. Awhile back there were some impressive pictures of Roystonea's. The number of days of heat, on average, per year, must have a big effect on possiblilities...no matter what the winter lows are. I read a post awhile back that alluded to Roystoneas and Wodyetia's failure rates in places that do not get as cold as Houston, but do not have near the number of warm days. They, in effect, starve themselves due to long periods of non growth....makes sense to me.

That is exactly how my area differs from Houston. Wodeyetias and Roystoneas make it through the frosts and freezes, no problem. But by April, theyre toast. Too many days 50F to 70 F. D decipiens has had mixed results here so far. The cold is no problem, but they seem to resent too much cold winter rain. They pull themselves deep in the soil, so it looks like they need to be planted up high, here. The best ones I have so far, are planted in the depleted, dry dripline under queen palms.

Dypsis baronii may be the best Dypsis here. Mine look nice so far, planted under a shade cloth, mixed with Chameadoreas.

Sorry if Im off topic again.

[mppalms]

Glenn,

Have you tried Dypsis onilahensis yet? I have one of each of the forms in pots (about ready for the ground). If anything, it takes our winters better than D. baronii, which can get some leaf spotting if exposed to too much rain. I haven't noticed a problem yet with Dypsis decipiens, but I'm on a hillside, and my problem is really with plants drying out.

Jason

[JEFF IN MODESTO]

Glenn,

Have you tried Dypsis onilahensis yet? I have one of each of the forms in pots (about ready for the ground). If anything, it takes our winters better than D. baronii, which can get some leaf spotting if exposed to too much rain. I haven't noticed a problem yet with Dypsis decipiens, but I'm on a hillside, and my problem is really with plants drying out.

Jason

Both...Dypsis onilahensis and D. baronii do fine here in the valley.... though for me Dypsis Decipiens is much more hardy... and faster to reach 6ft.

Glenn, My guess is that you need to allow your Decipiens out a little between waterings.?

Here is my d. Decipiens today... as you can see the newest spear is nearly 7 ft tall and just now starting to open.

Jeff

Edited April 29, 2008 by Jeff in Modesto

[BS Man about Palms]

Glenn,

Have you tried Dypsis onilahensis yet? I have one of each of the forms in pots (about ready for the ground). If anything, it takes our winters better than D. baronii, which can get some leaf spotting if exposed to too much rain. I haven't noticed a problem yet with Dypsis decipiens, but I'm on a hillside, and my problem is really with plants drying out.

Jason

Both...Dypsis onilahensis and D. baronii do fine here in the valley.... though for me Dypsis Decipiens is much more hardy... and faster to reach 6ft.

Glenn, My guess is that you need to allow your Decipiens out a little between waterings.?

Here is my d. Decipiens today... as you can see the newest spear is nearly 7 ft tall and just now starting to open.

Jeff

Is that a 6 foot tall Ranch Hand?

[Jon North Padre Island]

Jim,,

I have had good success with D.decaryi here on Padre Island as well as D. rivularis, lanceolata, lastelliana and what was sold to me as D. mahajanga (a name I have not been able to find elsewhere). After a little trouble with D. baronii, it seems to be doing better now. I have not had success with D. decipiens yet but plan to try it again. I have what Jeff (floribunda) sells as Dypsis robusta and that seems to be doing well. My single try with a D. carlsmithii did not meet with success.

On the Archontophoenix side of things I have had no problems in the last 6 years with one exception. After a long cold period, about two weeks of mid to high thirties, in early '06, several months later I had crown rot problems with several palms. I lost one each of A. alexandrae, Adonidia merrillii and a good sized coconut. A second A. alexandrae was sick but made it and the other five Archontophoenix species all made it though this period without any problems.

The snowstorm of Christmas eve '04 with it's brief freeze, did not cause any problems other than a few stunted leaves later the next spring.

I have a Kentopsis oliviformis that should start showing trunk this growing season. In fact, it does not seem to show any remarkable seasonal growth pattern but steadily grows year around in this fairly mild winter/hot spring, summer,fall climate. I have a small Kentiopsis pyriformis that I will probably put in the ground in the next several weeks.

In fact, the PSST meeting is at my place in May, why don't you come down.

Jon

[galveston1602]

On my island,

where we are probably only slightly cooler than you depending on your relativity to the bay in rockport ive had these experiences....

Ive had really good luck with decaryi mine have been in the ground for almost 5 years from 3 gal and are just starting to trunk with about 8' long fronds

As for the kings, alexandrae's at least, they hardly miss a beat! and to boot throw redish leaves in the winter!!

the cunninghams seem to do a little worse in the wind but generally heal themselves by june of the following year, im getting about 4-6" of trunk ring per leaf on many of my kings now. of course I know its a short term affair but if they last 2-5 years it'll be mission accomplished!

around here, there are some really nice examples of kings usually it seems like they are alexandrae but that could be because they are the only ones availiable?

(this palm is about 6' ish taller now)

I think youll quickly learn (like I still do) that its not the cold that kills palms around the coast as much as its the dang wind. those long cold winds from the winter fronts will reek havoc on all your plantings as much or more than cold will. I dont think Iv lost a palm to cold in years, but I have definetly lost a few to the wind!

Dypsis lustecens does well, as long as its protected from the wind

Carpentaria accuminata can survive, this one is at least 30' tall now

of course royals always do well I believe that these were planted from pots about yr 2000 (the owner didnt recall exactly)

[galveston1602]

another large royal no doubt brought in with a large headstart

yep foxtails will live till fruiting

I know its not a dypsis but, ive got a chamaedorea hooperiana that seems to really like our weather (no pics)

a beautiful, smallish feather palm!

Sorry, I tracked this way off topic

[JEFF IN MODESTO]

Glenn,

Have you tried Dypsis onilahensis yet? I have one of each of the forms in pots (about ready for the ground). If anything, it takes our winters better than D. baronii, which can get some leaf spotting if exposed to too much rain. I haven't noticed a problem yet with Dypsis decipiens, but I'm on a hillside, and my problem is really with plants drying out.

Jason

Both...Dypsis onilahensis and D. baronii do fine here in the valley.... though for me Dypsis Decipiens is much more hardy... and faster to reach 6ft.

Glenn, My guess is that you need to allow your Decipiens out a little between waterings.?

Here is my d. Decipiens today... as you can see the newest spear is nearly 7 ft tall and just now starting to open.

Jeff

Is that a 6 foot tall Ranch Hand?

Close... its my daughter in the picture.. I'd say shes about 5ft 9.

Jeff

[The Germinator]

Here's my 2 cents on Dypsis, these all survived last year’s cold snap, and I believe it was a week long of night time lows in the 20.

Dypsis Mahajanga - small plant - no damage

Dypsis Decaryi - Large trunking specimen no damage

Dypsis sanctaemariae - 4 foot plant no damage; I did have a Styrofoam jacket on it

Dypsis lutescens - small multi Minimal damage

Dypsis crinita - minimal damage

Dypsis scottiana - under my eves in container no damage