Hi everyone.

I have a list with palms (all crownshafted)
can you guys order them by suitability for my climate ? (you can find my climate details in my signature)

Ravenea rivularis
Pseudophoneix sargentii

Rhopalostylis sapida

Rhopalostylis Baueri

Dypsis decipiens

Euterpe edulis

(ps: this is how my ordering is like)

thanks

I would rank them differently for your climate...

Dypsis decipiens

Pseudophoenix sargentii

Rhopalostylus sapida

Rhopalostylus baueri

Ravenea rivularis

Eurterpe edulis

I would rank them differently for your climate...

Dypsis decipiens

Pseudophoenix sargentii

Rhopalostylus sapida

Rhopalostylus baueri

Ravenea rivularis

Eurterpe edulis

I agree with this ordering except Euterpe belongs above the rookies, very good palm for you.

why do you put Ravenea rivularis almost last? i thought that would be the best for my hot summers.

My climate looks close to yours. I think Kim nailed it. One thing I will say is that rhopiostylis is hard for me to grow due to the dry heat. I haven't done well with rhopys.

Let's dance!

Manos Ravenea rivularis, as you very well know, has many chances of success here. Euterpe would be an invitation for rsm here! Pseudophoenix is big question, anywayit shoud be outplanted on arrival, if latter occurs during summer,cause it can not tolerate in root zone our hot temps.

I would rank them differently for your climate...

Dypsis decipiens

Pseudophoenix sargentii

Rhopalostylus sapida

Rhopalostylus baueri

Ravenea rivularis

Eurterpe edulis

agree.

I also agree with Kim on the ordering. However,the Rhopalostylis need shade to do well,at least till they mature. Given their origin,I fear that even adult Rhopalostylis may need shade to cope with the heatwaves so only consider those for well shaded locations and preferably for areas with tall canopy trees above. The Rhopalostylis baueri var. cheesemanni i have planted in the deepest shade and wettest soil yearound grows the fastest for me by a good margin from its conspecifics planted in less shade and just moist soils. These are all spring plantings so that could change after they establish well,but i dont think so based on what i have read on this species and the habitats it favors. It seems deep shade and dripping wet decently draining soil is what it likes as a juvenile palm. I have planted all of mine in locations that will have tall tree and palm canopy so that they will always have canopy above them even as mature palms.

Ravenea rivularis doesnt have a crownshaft btw. This one may be difficult to keep happy at your location due to proximity to the sea and the amounts of water and nutrients this palm wants. I am not growing it so no first hand experience with it. I know from a friend that it develops crown rot really easy if its crown area is wet often by irrigation,so dont place it among your grass where the sprinklers would hit it.

Pseudophoenix is quite easy(but slooow) if you provide good drainage,at least the P. vinifera i am growing. They should like your place. A mixture of porous limestone rocks and coarse sand is great for them(treat them like Coccothrinax). I dont know how well they handle frost so you may want to plant them under light palm canopy to be sure. Mine are still in pots and doing fine I am not too happy they will have to overwinter in pots though...Their planters are not ready yet....

One and for all Ravenea rivularis is a piece of cake here (outplanted) given plenty of water and adequate and (most of all) proper feeding, since our tap water is quite hard (slow release potassium and kieserite, for God's sake no potassium and magenesium sulphates). Euterpe is a no, no, no because of our xerothermic summer. My one and only attempt (though outplanted in shade) failed 'sang- und klanglos', rsm had their headquarters on poor plant all summer long. I have managed to grow outdoors as pot plant a Rhopalostylis cheesemanii from seed to plant with pinnate leaves within a year in semi shade. This means awfully a lot to me. Unfortunately due to my youth's romantism I donated plant to our national garden, where it had an ill fate. This plant had an easterly exposure and fared quite well. On the other hand a Rhopalostylis sapida having same exposure, outplanted and having reached a size just prior to trunk forming got every year scorched leaves during summer. Unfortunately it perished during the cold spell of 2004 (while the Ravenea rivularis survived) and I am almost convinced that this plant would have had more chances, if it had a considerably more porous medium, since it buries growing point below soil level before it starts trunking. Manos, no offence, but I do not see the point asking around for candidate palms that have been tested in identical climate in your neighborhood, while other people are not familiar either with our climate or with many other equally significant parameters relating to our area. For example any Dypsis is the greatest challenge here, and as general rule (with exceptions of course) palms from southern China (e.i. Caryota ochlandra) and northern Mexico have best success chances...

those palms (that i know of that have been tested) are there for reference points. :-)

OK

And it is always good to hear other's opinion. That doesnt mean automatically i have to follow them by heart :-)

While Ravenea rivularis is easy to keep alive, it's another thing to keep it looking good. I based my rank on your low rainfall, low humidity, and cool winters. I would expect the palm to grow but look yellow and frizzled, as many do in San Diego.

While Ravenea rivularis is easy to keep alive, it's another thing to keep it looking good. I based my rank on your low rainfall, low humidity, and cool winters. I would expect the palm to grow but look yellow and frizzled, as many do in San Diego.

Kim, yellow is one issue and frizzle another, if my understanding is correct. I attribute yellow more to nutritional errors, as I have described above. Frizzled appearance is not common here, except during very severe (but fortunately exceptional) cold spells. But even in latter case an Rr within max couple of years can recuperate with proper care.