Allagoptera arenaria seeds

[_Rich]

Collected these seeds fresh this past weekend (7/31/10). Soaked in warm water and cleaned down about as far as I could without additional abrasion. Are these ready to put in a growing medium? I would also appreciate any pointers as to an ideal potting medium (well draining, percentage mixture of perlite...etc.). Finally, how deep in soil and how moist should I keep the soil?

Regards,

Rich

[_Rich]

Bump - anyone....anything? Are these ready for planting?

[Breadfruit Bill]

Put em in the dirt, don't wait! Once the fruit is off these need to be sewed!

[peachy]

They look okay to me. Its not a species I am familiar with but seeds are seeds in the main. I usually just put some spagnum moss in a baggie, shove the seeds into the spagnum and seal the bag. Put it somewhere warm, then wait for the results. Its a good idea to put the name and date on the bag too !! Good luck with them, the fresher seeds always give the best results.

Peachy

[Alberto]

I germinated my seeds in a baggy with vermiculite.

After germination planted in a very sandy medium and planted the palms on a very sandy spot,and after few years they are flowering now ! Not slow at all!! The viability of this seeds is short.

[_Rich]

Thanks All! I cleaned the fruit off last night - so they will be planted this evening.

Take Care,

Rich

[_Rich]

Does anyone know who long it tyipically takes A. arenaria to germinate? Being that I am not a very patient individual and I only had a few seeds, I curious to know if I'm going to have any success. I put two seeds in individual baggies in pure vermiculite & the other two in a potting soil/perlite mixture with a little vermiculite added in.

[PalmatierMeg]

I think they take longer than 2-1/2 weeks. Mine probably germinated in less than 3 months. Palms germinate on their own timetables, not ours, and tend to take more rather than less time. I just had a Licuala - just 1 - out of a baggie sprout after 1-1/2+ years. Have patience.

[_Rich]

Thanks Meg! I'll keep an eye on them and hope that we have a more mild winter than years previous! The more seedlings and seeds I add to the collection or try and germinate - the more of a pain it is to move everything potted indoors for protection. Guess it comes with the zone pushing territory. Thanks again and best wishes.

Rich

[PalmsZA]

I germinated my seeds in a baggy with vermiculite.

After germination planted in a very sandy medium and planted the palms on a very sandy spot,and after few years they are flowering now ! Not slow at all!! The viability of this seeds is short.

Grootnis Alberto

Quick question: how much water did you provide your plants? I have mine in bags and they are as slow as anything. You obviously got them in the ground quite small..

Thanks

Dennis

[palmman97]

they are fine they grow in nature without being cleaned

[Breadfruit Bill]

Many times bugs and/or furry critters eat the sweet fruit and seeds are cleaned in "nature"

[HolyNewBee]

Excuse me. Did they germinate successfully? I've got some seeds and have no idea about how to germinate them in coming winter😰

Edited November 16, 2022 by HolyNewBee

[Foxpalms]

1 hour ago, HolyNewBee said:

Excuse me. Did they germinate successfully? I've got some seeds and have no idea about how to germinate them in coming winter😰

I also have seeds of this palm and am wondering what's the best way to germinate them. I think I was going to use the baggie method then put them in a plastic container with it above water below it heated to 30.5c/87f. This seems to keep the soil throughout baggie at a constant temperature, rather than heat mats that can cause the bottom to be too hot and the top too cold. 

[HolyNewBee]

12 minutes ago, Foxpalms said:

I also have seeds of this palm and am wondering what's the best way to germinate them. I think I was going to use the baggie method then put them in a plastic container with it above water below it heated to 30.5c/87f. This seems to keep the soil throughout baggie at a constant temperature, rather than heat mats that can cause the bottom to be too hot and the top too cold. 

I was going to use the baggie method, same as you, but utilise some Sphagnum Moss as germination aggregate. I've bought a heat mat, hope it'll work. Another thing I'm hesitating for is when should I turn the mat on. And now I think your germination method sounds much more better!

[Foxpalms]

10 hours ago, HolyNewBee said:

I was going to use the baggie method, same as you, but utilise some Sphagnum Moss as germination aggregate. I've bought a heat mat, hope it'll work. Another thing I'm hesitating for is when should I turn the mat on. And now I think your germination method sounds much more better!

I had a heat mat that automatically turned off when the temperature got up to the temperature I set it as before. But the temperature sensor inside the baggie was at the top and bottom would always get too hot. I'm not sure when you turn it on and for how long because it depends how hot it gets.

[TheMadScientist]

@HolyNewBee & @Foxpalms, here is my post on this species.....This should help in explaining what I did.  In about 3 weeks, I might post the 1 year photo which are all at the 3 strap leaf growth.  I have never had a single one get sick, 10 that germinated are doing very well.

 

[HolyNewBee]

8 hours ago, Foxpalms said:

I had a heat mat that automatically turned off when the temperature got up to the temperature I set it as before. But the temperature sensor inside the baggie was at the top and bottom would always get too hot. I'm not sure when you turn it on and for how long because it depends how hot it gets.

My heat mat is a kind of inconstant heating mat, with a inconstant heating temperature from 25C/77F to 30C/86F. It's a simple type, without any automatical intelligence, setting choice or ever temperature sensor I guess. When it is too much cold, the merchant suggests me to put a piece of cotton cloth on it against heat loss.

Now the outside temperature is 16C/60F to 20C/68F. We have encountered a long period of High Temperature Disaster, and now temperature fianlly goes down. I'm too excited to wait to use my mat. I don't know how cold the seed can hold on and whether I turn on it too soon.

[HolyNewBee]

6 hours ago, TheMadScientist said:

@HolyNewBee & @Foxpalms, here is my post on this species.....This should help in explaining what I did.  In about 3 weeks, I might post the 1 year photo which are all at the 3 strap leaf growth.  I have never had a single one get sick, 10 that germinated are doing very well.

 

Wow! Just put the seeds into a little pot for each and get all pots in a germination box, and they'll germinate. That's a method inspires me. I'll update my method to 2.0 version.

[Foxpalms]

What is better, putting palm seeds in the baggie method, having them in a small plastic container inside my heated box with the lid off or having the lid on? Because my heated box is heated using water it already means the humidity inside the box is very high so would it be better to have the lid off in the small plastic boxes the seeds would be in to reduce the chance of mold? Also which is a better substrate, compost, mulch, sand and perlite. Sphagnum moss or perlite? I'm sure all methods could work but which one has a higher success rate?

[Foxpalms]

54 minutes ago, HolyNewBee said:

My heat mat is a kind of inconstant heating mat, with a inconstant heating temperature from 25C/77F to 30C/86F. It's a simple type, without any automatical intelligence, setting choice or ever temperature sensor I guess. When it is too much cold, the merchant suggests me to put a piece of cotton cloth on it against heat loss.

Now the outside temperature is 16C/60F to 20C/68F. We have encountered a long period of High Temperature Disaster, and now temperature fianlly goes down. I'm too excited to wait to use my mat. I don't know how cold the seed can hold on and whether I turn on it too soon.

I don't know about Allagoptera arenaria but my Phoenix sylvestris robusta seed that I accidentally left outside germinated last week and the temperature ranged only between 20-10c, but cool conditions would probably would stop most palm seeds from germinating. Other than high altitude palms and ones from cool climates.

Edited November 17, 2022 by Foxpalms

[HolyNewBee]

32 minutes ago, Foxpalms said:

What is better, putting palm seeds in the baggie method, having them in a small plastic container inside my heated box with the lid off or having the lid on? Because my heated box is heated using water it already means the humidity inside the box is very high so would it be better to have the lid off in the small plastic boxes the seeds would be in to reduce the chance of mold? Also which is a better substrate, compost, mulch, sand and perlite. Sphagnum moss or perlite? I'm sure all methods could work but which one has a higher success rate?

These quetions come to my mind as well. Do you have any idea about these? @TheMadScientist

Edited November 17, 2022 by HolyNewBee

[TheMadScientist]

A couple of items to address.....When I mention watering each day while in the converted ice chest, I should clarify by using the term "MISTING".  I have a spray bottle for "MISTING" the open container.  I can use my finger to see just how deep the moisture is, so I never let the seeds dry out and never put so much water in the container to drain out the bottom.  In the past, I started using the "BAGGIE" method, but always dealt with mold control and failed each time.  It's been years of NOT using baggies, but recently, I tried a large trash bag with twist tie to close 2 "2 liter plastic soda bottles" in for some J. Caffra seeds and found mold starting.  Tap roots had started on some, but the obvious excessive retained moisture cause that tap root to "damp off" turn them brown and death.  Ask anything I have not answered for you.

[HolyNewBee]

On 11/18/2022 at 1:20 AM, TheMadScientist said:

A couple of items to address.....When I mention watering each day while in the converted ice chest, I should clarify by using the term "MISTING".  I have a spray bottle for "MISTING" the open container.  I can use my finger to see just how deep the moisture is, so I never let the seeds dry out and never put so much water in the container to drain out the bottom.  In the past, I started using the "BAGGIE" method, but always dealt with mold control and failed each time.  It's been years of NOT using baggies, but recently, I tried a large trash bag with twist tie to close 2 "2 liter plastic soda bottles" in for some J. Caffra seeds and found mold starting.  Tap roots had started on some, but the obvious excessive retained moisture cause that tap root to "damp off" turn them brown and death.  Ask anything I have not answered for you.

Thanks a lot. I've put one seed in each container. Hope my seeds can germinate and grow up as yours did.