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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/18/2021 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Not entirely sure what this thread is about, but here’s one of my trucks amongst the palms.
  2. 3 points
    The Sabal species I am looking for: Sabal lougheediana from Bonaire in the Caribbean. A species, not a unicorn crossed with a zebra hybrid. Rare and endangered. I hope seeds will be offered some day. https://www.dutchcaribbeanspecies.org/content/new-and-endangered-palm-species-described-bonaire
  3. 2 points
    I purchased property just south of Daytona Beach on a barrier I am located about 1/2 mi from the Atlantic ocean on the east and about the same distance from the intracoastal waterway to the West. According to the most updated USDA zone maps this area is listed as 9b. I have a theory that where I am may actually be 10a due to some of the true tropical plants growing in the area. ie. Coconut palms with 12 ft of trunk showing. I have planted 107 different species of palms across my property. It has been very fun collecting, planting, and growing the palms. I hope that the performance of the palms will be an accurate indicator of the true USDA zone that i am in . Volusia county Florida.
  4. 2 points
    Anybody in a zone 8B or so test the limit to Macrozamia Moorei , Johnsonii, or Communis? Anyone have them survive a wet 14-15*F? If they did die, at what temperature? If you’ve have success with other Macrozamia in that range feel free to mention.Thanks
  5. 2 points
    I live in Golden Beach, a barrier island, in extreme North East Miami -Date county. I am located in growing zone 10B-11. I have successful grown my lipstick palm from a seed to a 13 foot tall tree. It is located in a 100 gallon pot in Full Sun in a wind sheltered location. It prefers an acidic soil with plenty of peat moss. It successfully survived a temperature of 41 degrees F in January of 2020 with only minimal damage. It needs to be watered everyday and I also apply a fungicide in December, January , and February. I used to bring it indoors anytime the temperature went below 58 degrees but that is no longer an option given its large size. On very cold nights I water the soil around the base with water heated to 140 degrees. I also have an outdoor oscillating heater as well as some old fashion incandescent lightbulbs which I place near the tree to throw off some additional heat. My heater broke on the night that the temperature feel to 41 degrees in January 2020 and the tree survived just fine. By Gregg L. Friedman MD
  6. 2 points
    Ponce Inlet isn’t bad. They’ve got a history of being able to grow zone 10 palms for awhile, but then a bad freeze eventually comes along. NSB is the same story more or less. That area is probably low end 10a and on the cusp of being able to have a great garden. Historically tropicals have done much better south of Cape Canaveral though...
  7. 2 points
    This is one of my clients place, he wraps the Dicksonia each year in late fall. He starts by trimming off the fronds but keeping a little bit of the stems in the crown to support a nest of leaves that help insulate the crown. He then wraps the entire trunk with burlap then with bubble wrap and then puts a big plastic bag over the entire thing, tying it down with string. Technically this is zone 9a and the ferns would likely be fine unprotected, but given their age and how special they are and how long it takes to wrap one of these should the need arise last minute, he does it well ahead of time each year. They come back in the spring like nothing has happened!
  8. 2 points
    That’s a fine tactic for established plants but it dooms a newly planted one to possible death.
  9. 2 points
    Ive seen some decent ones, but most are under-watered and sunburnt in PHX.
  10. 2 points
    Didn't we have this topic on a previous thread ? Here is a perennial contender in California, neglected Washingtonia robusta palms.
  11. 2 points
    Great choices for your zone...I’m 7a or b...depending...but my needles and sabals have done great with no protection on the needles at all...once yours are well established, maybe you can get away with minimum protection. What kind of sun will the needle get? South face is great. So much depends on location in our zones. I have two needles. One in mostly shade, south face and the other in full sun/wet area, south face. The shade one is beautifully formed and well protected and is a very slow grower...the full sun/wet one gets a bit tattered but is growing fast...your Sabal will be a while to get growing but once established should perform but again, location is key. I have minors in Bethany, DE which is 7b, they are seeding and doing great... I planted three seedlings from them here in VA this spring with zero protection to see how hardy they really are. If yours do well, you may get some seed production, which, if you can get them to sprout, is more rewarding than getting, say, a zinnia seed to sprout...In our zones, this palm thing is a great hobby and a rewarding one if they’re not dying left and right...and I’ve killed more than my share but your headed in the right direction. Sun/wet needle and shade needle...
  12. 2 points
    Very helpful, thank you! Here is the needle and one of the minors going in the ground this April.
  13. 1 point
    Hello Palmers Curious to know if anyone has had success in planting Lipsticks in the ground in South Florida. I have a good location out of wind and sun which should work. I can also shelter them in that location from cold and hurricanes. I’m tired of moving these around my patio but I don’t want to lose them if potting is best.
  14. 1 point
    I wish I could as I would much rather see them live on. The problem is mostly damaging the roots of the surrounding plants. I've done a big dig out once and killed a parajubea that was next to it. These are all within about 4 feet from the next plant.
  15. 1 point
    Vancouver’s Trachycarpus basking in the January sunshine 11C.
  16. 1 point
    Where is the northmost cultivated Sabal palmetto or any other palm you can think of? I may have found one on Google maps, the second one is after I zoomed in: It appears to be on private property, as there is no street view for the roads nearest to this. This is just barely North of Cape Charles, VA.
  17. 1 point
    Across the Atlantic, I found references on the Hardy Tropicals UK Forum of Trachycarpus being grown at Læraraskúlin (a school) in Tórshavn, Faroe Islands; and even farther north at Trondheim, Norway. I couldn't find the Trachy at the school in the Faroe Islands, in fact there are few trees anywhere, but I certainly saw some spectacular scenery, especially when zooming around to various outer islands, amazing! And the other place mentioned, Trondheim, looks like a very lush, beautiful city, though colder in the winter than the Faroe Islands; but again, there was no specific location given. Here is a google street view for anyone who wants to run around trying to find a Trachy: Tórshavn: Læraraskúlin, Tórshavn, Faroe Islands Trondheim: Trondheim, Norway And the forum on which these are mentioned, searched for "Faroe": Hardy Tropicals UK Forum
  18. 1 point
    Thanks for sharing that information. I have little experience growing tree ferns outside year round. Once I overwintered a Cyathea cooperi by wrapping it in bubble wrap and then black plastic over that. I left the crown open, which was probably ill advised. The fronds were killed but, to my delight, the fern pushed out new fronds in the Spring. Cyathea cooperi has shown a fair amount of hardiness here. I haven't dared trying Dicksonia outside due to their slow growth and cost. I'm tempted to buy a number of young Cyathea cooperi to plant out in Spring and see how much growth I could get in our warm humid summers. Then I could experiment with winter protection. It might be possible to protect the Dicksonia (and the Cyathea) the same way you have, except wrap some string lights over the burlap for extreme weather. Our winter weather is generally mild, but like all the Southeast can be extreme for brief (usually) periods. I grow a number of palms such as Trachycarpus, Sabals, Chamaerops, Rhapidophyllum, and Butia, but these are all much hardier than tree ferns of course.
  19. 1 point
    there's a YouTube link above showing lava flow decimating an old palm garden
  20. 1 point
    Love the picks! also live in the Pacific Northwest in Mukilteo.know ya from FB.happy to see you here as well
  21. 1 point
    I thought I’d share some baby photos of a few palms that I expect to grow into giants. I’ll start with Attalea cohune. This one started as a 5-gallon pot planted in 2015. It’s now about 12-14 ft high. It might be mistaken for a Raphia since at this stage it is just a large feather duster of fronds bursting out of the ground. But in another 5-7 years I expect to see some trunk. Then it should blast off into the sky. Somewhere I read that this species is a heavy feeder, so I often toss it a handful of fertilizer. I have been amazed by photos of Corypha I’ve seen on Palmpedia. I had to get some. I have the room. I was warned that these were painfully slow, and they were for the first two years in the ground. But in their third year, they have really taken off opening a new frond every five weeks. It would be wonderful if there were some way to arrest development just before they begin to trunk. Once they get tall, I think they lose the overwhelming presence they have face-to-face. The Corypha umbraculifera (Talipote) came to me as a freebie giveaway at the 2016 HIPS banquet and auction. I think the generous donor was a West Hawaii palm grower, but I’m not sure. If you lost your mature tree around that time and provided a bunch of seedlings to our auction, thanks! And rest assured it is getting plenty of TLC. Corypha utans
  22. 1 point
    Here are a few more pics from last summer, hope you enjoy them.
  23. 1 point
    Delightful signs of the southwest
  24. 1 point
    Can I nominate one of my D. Lutescens? I ordered it from Home Depot and it looked like they dropped it from an airplane onto my porch during a flood. I would have returned it if it didn't show up in the middle of a covid lockdown. The box was soaking wet, obv retaped. Leaves were literally stuffed into the dirt. But John decided to save it because that's what John does.
  25. 1 point
    Today I’ll focus on a couple of my favorite fan palms. Oddly, the native Pritchardias are not on the list. I have four, and two are in steep decline due to pests or disease. You might assume that a native plant would be especially vigorous in its home habitat, but no. It’s survival of the fittest at my place. Instead, I’ll start with Kerridoxa elegans, a species that really shines in Hawaii. It is too bad that this palm must be grown in containers in most mainland locations, because it is a totally different palm after a few years in the ground. I have a bunch of these, and it seems like it takes about three years to establish a root system before it really starts to show off. Right now, my largest ones form an eight ft diameter ball of giant round fronds that are dark green on top and silvery on the underside. Last year they began blooming. I had one male and three females. I hand pollinated the females and got plenty of seeds that have recently germinated. Producing viable seeds and then germinating them is a big part of the palm fun in Hawaii. Here is the first Kerridoxa that went in the ground in late 2014. It is a bit hard to make out since there are a bunch of potted Brugmansia sitting to the right. The baby tree fern farther to the right is Cyathea medullaris, the New Zealand black tree fern. This species can get huge, over 50 ft tall. It is a fast grower putting on two feet of new trunk a year. In the photo on the right, only the trunk is visible. I’m trying to use tall growing tree ferns to provide canopy to shade loving palms. Their falling light weight fronds are less likely to do damage to plants below than a large palm would. Maybe in future posts I’ll discuss the politics that surround growing exotic tree ferns. Here is a wider view of the same area showing the size of the tree fern. These provide an exotic tropical feel few other plants have. The lawn chair provides some scale. There are a couple of Verschaffeltias in the back, Licuala elegans at left, and a Heterospathe barfodi with a white trunk. There is even a coconut frond poking in on the right. Every few years we get a freak blue sky wind storm: the dreaded Kona Winds. The NE trade winds that normally bring all our rain stop, and instead dry SW wind whips around the south point of the island. The wind can be over 40 mph for many hours. My poor Kerridoxa that have any exposure take a terrible beating. For the next year they look like crap until they can replenish their crowns with fresh, undamaged fronds. My only complaint about this species is that it has an annoying habit of opening each new frond as soon as the spike emerges from the stem. Then the expanding petiole tries to ram the huge frond 6-8 ft up through the crown of older fronds. This can lead to tangled and torn leaves. They should take a lesson from Licualas. Extend petiole first, then open frond. Here is a partially sunburned Kerridoxa planted on a south-facing hillside with the idea that the silver underside would be visible to people looking from below while anyone on the upper trail would see the dark green side. It hasn’t quite worked out, but it was a good try. In this case the baby tree fern is Cyathea brownii, which will also get very tall. The plan is for the row of tree ferns to provide canopy for the Kerridoxa planted higher up the hill. View from lower side. Looking down at the same palm from the upper trail.
  26. 1 point
    In my neighborhood too! Great sunset over the ocean, but couldn't resist getting the sky behind the North Leucadia classic "Roberto's" taco shop with the Syagrus in silhouette.
  27. 1 point
    Pretty wild one this evening.. There would be a tree here blocking this view.. ( was the 3rd Chilean Mesquite in my neighbor's yard that was damaged last summer. Just a 12' stump now. Hopefully it grows back, before summer, if it does at all. ) Fin.
  28. 1 point
    Not necessarily palm related, but you have to drive up Haleakaka Highway to the summit area of Haleakaka National Park. Just after entering the park, you will find a nature trail at Hosmer Grove. They have cedar, spruce, pine, eucalyptus, and sandal wood trees that were planted there in the early 1900s. Almost makes you feel like you are Northern California or something. Further up at the summit, you can find this really cool native yucca-looking plant called the Haleakaka Silversword (Argyroxiphium sandwicense subsp. macrocephalum). And the view above the clouds at that alpine level; its like you are standing on another planet. Here are some pictures I took back in 2004:
  29. 1 point
    Metroxylon upolense and M. vitiense both become quite large, but sadly, eventually send up a terminal inflorescence, bloom, and die. M. upolense does not appear on Palmpedia, but is listed as a valid species at Kew Gardens. So far I can’t tell much difference between them. I recently came upon a mature M. vitiense dropping hundreds of fruit. I gathered up about 50. When I got home and removed the snakeskin outer covering, I was disheartened to see that all the seeds were black and covered with fungus. I thought about ditching the whole lot, but instead tried soaking them in 10% bleach for an hour followed by several rinses of water. Then they went into a large plastic bag with some Sphagnum moss. When I checked a few months later I was amazed to see half of them had germinated. I now have 25 seedlings in 1 gallon pots. I have no idea what I'll do with them. I like to have some seedlings to give away to visitors, but most people don't want suicidal palms. In the photo below that is a Pigafetta eleata in the back and a small Licuala peltata var sumawongii (aka L. elegans) in the middle. The Pigafetta was started from seed. More on both in future posts.
  30. 1 point
    It's too cool for palms to take up fert now anyway - you'd just be wasting it. Yellowing is quite normal, esp. in some genus (such as Syagrus). I wouldn't put anything down until mid-February earliest.
  31. 1 point
    I haven't figured out the species of this one yet but it's growing pretty fast.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    Hi Claire, I'm also in a colder climate and have a lot of licuala grandis grown from seed. The thing you need to know to keep tropical palms alive up north is that, the further north you are the better draining your soil need to avoid root rot. Judging from the look of your licuala leaves, I'm wondering if the soil it's in is draining enough? Look up Pal Meir's soil mix and his post on licuala grandis. Mine are in the same mix but with more laca (clay balls) for extra drainage. Of course you need to water more frequently with this mix than with other soil mixes, but you have very little chance of fungus infections. That's the main cause of problems with palms up north in the winter. And don't worry about humidity. Mine are at 20% inside in the winter without any problems.
  35. 1 point
    yes, they don't like sunshine and love shade with good daylight, can be in darker spots in the house as well for a little time. The leaves are delicate even you might not think so when you touch them. Once those leaves are all dried out just cut it off a few inches away from the stem. Once it is dried off you can take it off too. I mist mine (they live outside all year) when its hot outside but not when they are indoors (they come inside when it gets under 50F). Make sure you check the pot you don't want them to sit in water. Its always better to see water running out so you can measure yourself how much water to apply. I would sit the nursery pot on some stones inside the saucer and have some water in there, that way they produce humidity as well , of course depending where you live and if you have 4 seasons. Heat in the winter will dry them out quickly than the idea with stones works well. Don't overwater them, if you are not sure just buy a watering meter for 10 bucks, that helps. A humidifier is always good inside for you and the Licuala. They are amazingly beautiful wherever you put them.. You should give some fertilizer twice a year, I use Palm Gain (Amazon) . Its good stuff and all she needs. If you can collect rain water, they love it and grow nicer and faster. Once in a while turn the pot that way they grow evenly and all get some daylight. Avoid any sun. I have several species of Licualas, the Grandis I have 2 big ones and 1 small, one is dark green and the others are bright green, no clue why, maybe different origins or depends on the soil they came in or could be some deficiency. Good Luck! B19F609C-4C78-4D60-8CFD-5C3874D23871.heic
  36. 1 point
    Not mine, but a sturdy armata in the south of france
  37. 1 point
    Every morning I grabbed a couple of Banh Mi and fruit for the road as there was nothing except jungle. Not even much traffic. Licuala sp Never get tired of kontumensis Aspidistra? Alpinia sp fairly common also Stopped for beers at Mang Den and tourists! Next off to Danang over 2 days stopping at Kham Duc.
  38. 1 point
    The next day it was off again early to the hills to the west on the new road to Dalat Hau was my means of getting around. I went on the back of his motorbike as the day before But the palms were the reason to be here Pinanga spiralis Pinanga annamensis Licuala glaberrima
  39. 1 point
    Thank you, Darold, for the very detailed response! It is so interesting to learn the history of a place that I absolutely adore. I have visited it many times and always enjoy the collection. It never gets old! That is so sad to hear about the lack of enthusiasm in palm trees and how there are such few places to host meetings. That's particularly sad to hear about the Juania! I don't understand why people would vandalize a garden. If anyone is interested in what the collection contains, here are photos from May 2017. Click here for the photos
  40. 1 point
    It has been a while since I checked on this, so I checked today. I think they froze out in that Polar Vortex – along with trachycarpus according to the comments on the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpXZdoeivgw Here are a few additional links of interest I've found in my research: NJ: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/2036946/nj-palm-trees-planted-in-the-ground https://www.houzz.com/discussions/3236059/palm-trees-in-nj A guy starting a nursery: https://www.pressofatlanticcity.com/communities/lower_capemay/middle-township-farmer-hopes-to-switch-from-importing-palm-trees/article_e5d297ae-7019-11df-a392-001cc4c03286.html Sabal minor: http://www.bg-map.com/sabal_m.html http://www.bg-map.com/nj_updat.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYPv5wC-BoA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4kNsTbpoQ4 Sabal minor and needle seem bulletproof after an establishment period.
  41. 1 point
    Found this trachy this summer at Tobermory, island of Mull in the Scottish Highlands. Latitude 56.6. Probably some further north on the west coast of Scotland. Doesn't get too cold there due to the gulf stream.
  42. 1 point
    Depends on the species. For example, the northernmost thriving Trachycarpus is in southern Sweden. I really doubt somewhere else in the world above 54-55°N has them. For comparison, London is at 51°N, Vancouver at 49°N. In fact, I think that a warm microclimate south of Göteborg (57°N) can have Trachycarpus. Not as good looking as the Vancouver ones, of course, but neither looking half dead. Incredible winters for their latitude and pretty warm summers for the same reason. The annual temp is 9°C which is no joke for a place at 57° 40' N! And probably south of the city in a warm microclimate with a special orography, it can be around 10°C.
  43. 1 point
    Connecticut sabals don't count same as regenerated sabals hypothetically shipped to Barrow Alaska that'd live a few months.
  44. 1 point
    If you want a brandegeei, here's one:
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    Rip An old specimen of mine bought as dulcis, but it lacked any kind of spines on petioles.
  47. 1 point
    Brahea Decumbens. Planted as a 1 gallon back in 2003ish. Hard to get a decent photo with the Cocothrinax jammed in there:
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    Here's another one of my Pembana's. This one has grown quite fast too, although it did get a little sunburnt after a very hot day about three weeks ago, so it's probably not looking as good as it should be.
  50. 1 point
    Pembana has grown faster for me than D lanceolata. Lanceolata is more prone to sunburn than D pembana for me, so pembana seems to handle more sun. Winter cold and wind issues are similar, as both appreciate some protection or will yellow and show leaf tip burn. Photos of similar age D pembana next to my garage, and the D lanceolata next to a 6' block wall. Both were planted in late 2010 as 5 gallons.



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