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Lowering water pH with Venturi

Featured Replies

I installed a venturi system in my irrigation hose and I am lowkey thrilled (excuse the gen Z language). My water is not too hard, doesn't leave white marks on leaves for instance, but its pH is 8! I add citric acid through venturi and the water has now a pH of 6.5! I hope this will make a difference for my plants. For a small garden like mine, the cost is negligible, less than 1 dollar per watering for citric acid. Anyone else has tried this?

Here is a photo of the Venturi; I know it looks totally amateur-ish but oh well, it works. I dilute the citric acid in the black deposit; I am planning to get a bigger one so I don't have to refill every time.

 

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Zone 9b: if you love it, cover it.

Here you go @Than one of five Venturis we have at work! 

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We have 3 1000 litre shuttles for fertilisers that last two days in between refilling. And use fertiliser by the tonne! It’s a fun job it’s not rocket science but the hot days keep you pretty busy. It’s called irrigation but in fact we call it irritation, great when it’s working but when it’s not working and something is wrong on a 38 degree celcius day in poly tunnels, let’s just say the pressure is on and we are not talking about water pressure! 

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Try Agri buffa to lower ph. 

  • Author
28 minutes ago, happypalms said:

Try Agri buffa to lower ph. 

An Australian product I see. I bet it will be more expensive than humble citric acid

Zone 9b: if you love it, cover it.

9 hours ago, Than said:

An Australian product I see. I bet it will be more expensive than humble citric acid

Anything in Australia is expensive at the moment, and I think the freight to your door would be even more expensive! 

  • Author
7 hours ago, happypalms said:

Anything in Australia is expensive at the moment, and I think the freight to your door would be even more expensive! 

You can find it in Greek shops too but still I bet citric acid will work out much cheaper.

Zone 9b: if you love it, cover it.

1 hour ago, Than said:

You can find it in Greek shops too but still I bet citric acid will work out much cheaper.

You could try elemental Sulfur, cost is a big factor on a large scale or if used continuously.  And if it’s for the home garden I would not look at the cost but what would be effective. Be careful not too lock up your soil making matters even worse. 

  • Author
3 minutes ago, happypalms said:

You could try elemental Sulfur, cost is a big factor on a large scale or if used continuously.  And if it’s for the home garden I would not look at the cost but what would be effective. Be careful not too lock up your soil making matters even worse. 

You are right; My garden is only 400 sq.m. so the cost is not an issue. I apply sulfur twice a year. The soil's original pH is 8,2, which is quite high, so I believe I have to combine all those methods to see results: sulfur + citric acid in water + amendment with acidic soil + humic acids.

I'll do another soil test in the future to see if I have achieved anything. What's your pH?

Zone 9b: if you love it, cover it.

51 minutes ago, Than said:

You are right; My garden is only 400 sq.m. so the cost is not an issue. I apply sulfur twice a year. The soil's original pH is 8,2, which is quite high, so I believe I have to combine all those methods to see results: sulfur + citric acid in water + amendment with acidic soil + humic acids.

I'll do another soil test in the future to see if I have achieved anything. What's your pH?

8.2 that’s a mega high ph. My ph is around 6 to 5.5, most nutrients are available. I do get a slight  phosphorus deficiency due to the sandy soil leaching, and that’s most of the Australian soils around. All I do for fertiliser for the garden is chicken poo pellets. Broad casting handfuls around and the odd handful on the hungry looking palms. I used to broadcast a synthetic NPK mixture, but found that it was not good for the chamaedoreas, prolifiic blue was the one I used. There are not many specific palm fertilisers available in bulk in my area it’s more fruit tree fertilisers. And with so many different palms from all around the globe in my garden it’s not easy to use a NPK mix. So just the good old chicken poo pellets for me! 

  • Author
5 hours ago, happypalms said:

8.2 that’s a mega high ph. My ph is around 6 to 5.5, most nutrients are available. I do get a slight  phosphorus deficiency due to the sandy soil leaching, and that’s most of the Australian soils around. All I do for fertiliser for the garden is chicken poo pellets. Broad casting handfuls around and the odd handful on the hungry looking palms. I used to broadcast a synthetic NPK mixture, but found that it was not good for the chamaedoreas, prolifiic blue was the one I used. There are not many specific palm fertilisers available in bulk in my area it’s more fruit tree fertilisers. And with so many different palms from all around the globe in my garden it’s not easy to use a NPK mix. So just the good old chicken poo pellets for me! 

Wow you live in heavens. Acidic soil, no frosts, sandy soil... and your only problem is that you have to use natural fertilizer! Life isn't fair 

Zone 9b: if you love it, cover it.

2 hours ago, Than said:

Wow you live in heavens. Acidic soil, no frosts, sandy soil... and your only problem is that you have to use natural fertilizer! Life isn't fair 

Hopefully you do not have an evil eye🙃

On 5/18/2026 at 7:49 AM, Than said:

An Australian product I see. I bet it will be more expensive than humble citric acid

Agri Buffa is designed for crops that will be harvested, not long term use.

AI Overview
 
 
 
Agri-Buffa is a highly acidic spray adjuvant used to acidify, buffer, and act as a surfactant for agricultural tank mixes. Long-term use requires careful soil management and equipment maintenance to prevent adverse effects like soil acidification, metal corrosion, and chemical damage. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
Key considerations for long-term use include:
  • Soil & Water Impacts: Repeated acidification over time can lower soil pH, which may eventually require liming. However, Agri-Buffa is biodegradable, and organic accumulation in the soil is generally low compared to the active pesticidal chemistries it is mixed with.
  • Corrosion Risks: The product is highly corrosive (pH < 1.0). Long-term use requires strict equipment maintenance. Failure to rinse sprayers and boom lines can degrade metal and plastic components over time.
  • Microbial Health: While Agri-Buffa itself is an adjuvant, the long-term use of the pesticides and herbicides it carries can significantly alter soil microbiomes.
  • Best Practices: Always conduct regular annual soil tests and pH monitoring to ensure your soil's chemistry remains within the ideal agronomic range. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

If you look further they warn that long term use or overuse can remove the waxy cuticle layer as agribuffer is a surfactant and penetrant.  Probably quite effective for crops that will be harvested this growing season.  But I would be careful with palms, you really dont want to remove the cuticle wax as its protective against sunburn and pathogen entry.

Formerly in Gilbert AZ, zone 9a/9b. Now in Palmetto, Florida Zone 9b/10a??

 

Tom Blank

20 hours ago, Than said:

Wow you live in heavens. Acidic soil, no frosts, sandy soil... and your only problem is that you have to use natural fertilizer! Life isn't fair 

There’s a lot I can’t grow and there’s a lot I have killed trying, iam quite happy to black sandy soil, and a lot of sandstone rocks in my soil. Plus the ocean influence, my elevation is around 130 meters. So quite a unique microclimate, a palm growers paradise close to halfway in between Sydney and Brisbane. 

  • Author
12 minutes ago, happypalms said:

There’s a lot I can’t grow

Can you name some species that you thought you could grow but they didn't make it there?

Zone 9b: if you love it, cover it.

On 5/20/2026 at 6:52 PM, Than said:

Can you name some species that you thought you could grow but they didn't make it there?

Pelagodoxa henryana, brassiophoenix schumanii, Calpytrocalyx benga dawn, Areca catechu, drymophloeus oliviformis, cocos nucifera. All these ones I thought they had a chance and keep on trying. Then you realise it’s no use in on trying so you learn after a while, not to waste your time on trying, you know the signs of cold damage and necrosis on a palm. Yet we tell ourselves it wasn’t the cold and try again, it died due to some reason we tell ourselves. But this is how we learn to grow from making mistakes. It makes for a better grower and the quality of your plants increases!

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