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Fertilizing Palms in Pots – How Do You Find the Right Balance?


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Posted

Hi everyone, I’ve been reading through a lot of threads here and finally decided to ask a question that’s been on my mind for a while. I grow all of my palms in pots, mainly because I’m limited on space and need the flexibility to move them around during colder months. Overall things are going fairly well, but I still feel like I’m guessing more than I should in certain areas.

One specific point I keep circling back to is how often container-grown palms actually need fertilizer compared to in-ground palms. I know nutrients leach out of pots much faster, especially with frequent watering, but I’m never quite sure where the line is between “helpful feeding” and “too much of a good thing.” I’ve had a couple of palms that responded really well to light, regular feeding, but I’ve also had others show tip burn or stalled growth afterward, which makes me hesitate.

From my own experience, watering seems easier to dial in than feeding. I can usually tell when a palm in a pot is thirsty or staying too wet, but nutrient issues feel more subtle and slower to show up. I’ve noticed that during warmer months, when growth picks up, some palms seem to fade a bit in color unless I’m more consistent with feeding. On the other hand, during cooler periods, they seem perfectly content with very little input at all.

I’m also curious how pot size plays into this. A palm that’s been in the same container for a few years seems to behave differently than one that was recently upsized, even if they’re the same species. It makes me wonder if root density changes how nutrients are absorbed

 

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Posted

Good question, how often you ask. It does depend on temperature, rainfall, growing conditions, fertiser type and various methods of fertilising. You can use organic or synthetic fertilisers. I liquid fertilise my palms basically all summer with a ratio of 2 waterings to 3 fertilising and vice a versa. Slow release you would apply once a year with a 9 month slow release and this would include liquid fertiliser application in the warmer months, I don’t fertilise in winter. Or you can fertilise with standard a NPK ratio suitable for palms in containers just once a season in spring, but used sparingly a little goes a long way. Always follow the manufacturer recommendations and go a little under to be safe. Foliar feeding works well in the warm weather, just a light misting and a trickle with the watering can is sufficient. Only fertilise in the warmer months starting in spring. Metabolic rates are slow in winter and palms don’t really feed much then, except for the hot tropics it a grow season all year virtually. But remember keep it simple and go a little under in the amounts used! 

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  • Upvote 1
Posted

Palms in pots are , to me , much tougher to gage . It is easy to overdo things like watering and feeding. The right balance is a bit harder to achieve. I live in an area where a majority of my palms are in ground or heading that way eventually. The few potted ones rarely get fertilized unless I move them up in Spring . I add a weak mix of organic , powdery fertilizer after repotting . I then wait until the following year . I’ve had a couple of my palms ( Chamaedorea)  in pots for well over 20 years just because they really like living on my porch in the shade . They seem fine with just regular watering . Harry

  • Upvote 2
Posted

Osmocote plus has all slow release ingredients and will tell you how much based on pot size.  

https://amazon.com/dp/B0B9Q4J758

https://youtu.be/2dsWuIg3LkI?t=183

 

  • Like 1

YouTube https://www.youtube.com/@tntropics - 60+ In-ground 7B palms - (Sabal) minor (15+, 3 dwarf),  brazoria (1) , birmingham (3), louisiana (4), palmetto (2),  tamaulipensis (1), (Trachycarpus) fortunei (15+), wagnerianus (2+),  Rhapidophyllum hystrix (7),  Blue Butia odorata (1), Serenoa repens (1) Chamaerops humilis (1) +Tons of tropical plants.  Recent Yearly Lows 4F, -6F, -1F, 12F, 11F, 18F, 16F, 3F, 3F, 6F, 3F, 1F, 16F, 17F, 6F, 8F

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Allen said:

Osmocote plus has all slow release ingredients and will tell you how much based on pot size.  

https://amazon.com/dp/B0B9Q4J758

https://youtu.be/2dsWuIg3LkI?t=183

 

Did you see the YouTube video where the guy tried to grow in pure Osmocote? I mean, I don't think I need to give you any spoilers here but his theory is that it failed because there was nothing to retain moisture and so much of it just fell out the bottom of the pot. 

 

On 2/6/2026 at 1:55 AM, tatete5678 said:

Hi everyone, I’ve been reading through a lot of threads here and finally decided to ask a question that’s been on my mind for a while. I grow all of my palms in pots, mainly because I’m limited on space and need the flexibility to move them around during colder months. Overall things are going fairly well, but I still feel like I’m guessing more than I should in certain areas.

One specific point I keep circling back to is how often container-grown palms actually need fertilizer compared to in-ground palms. I know nutrients leach out of pots much faster, especially with frequent watering, but I’m never quite sure where the line is between “helpful feeding” and “too much of a good thing.” I’ve had a couple of palms that responded really well to light, regular feeding, but I’ve also had others show tip burn or stalled growth afterward, which makes me hesitate.

From my own experience, watering seems easier to dial in than feeding. I can usually tell when a palm in a pot is thirsty or staying too wet, but nutrient issues feel more subtle and slower to show up. I’ve noticed that during warmer months, when growth picks up, some palms seem to fade a bit in color unless I’m more consistent with feeding. On the other hand, during cooler periods, they seem perfectly content with very little input at all.

I’m also curious how pot size plays into this. A palm that’s been in the same container for a few years seems to behave differently than one that was recently upsized, even if they’re the same species. It makes me wonder if root density changes how nutrients are absorbed

 

I've always gone with the "less is more" theory - you're right on the watering. I mean, if you've had a plant long enough you can basically tell if it's dry by how much it weighs when you pick it up. Osmocote is popular because it's a slow release and it's almost impossible to overuse. There's also the Jobes plant food spikes. They just break down into the soil over a few months and they tell you how many to use by pot size. Adding some fish emulsion and/or liquid kelp or liquid seaweed every other watering isn't a terrible idea - stuff like this activates the bacteria that allow the palms to absorb the fert more effectively. I do not reccomend you use it at full strength indoors, unless you don't have a nose or buy Febreeze by the case. The soil you use plays a role, too. Lots of soils have fert and food built in, and you don't wanna overdo it and most peat based soil just turns into worthless dried out crap over time, and palms are so stupid about not telling you there's a problem until it's too late..... 

I can't really tell you what's gonna work best for you. I've used Carl Pool, the Jobes spikes, liquid fert, Jobes palm food (the pelletized 🐔 💩 kind, my dog found it delicious), now I'm using some Dr Earth stuff in some plants and I'm just using some cheap 4-4-4 slow release in others, I keep forgetting I've got Osmocote. I mean, there really isn't a one size fits all with pots.

I personally disagree with the idea that more nutrients get leached out of pots, I might be wrong here - but it seems to me and my simple mind that more of the nutrients would stay in the pot unless you're just flooding them regularly. However, this ain't my background and I'm - there's no manual for this, all we can do is ask the people that have been doing it longer than us, because we learn how to grow stuff by killing stuff. At least now I'm down to killing stuff I grew from seed while it's still small instead of killing $150 plants. 

So basically I just wrote 8 pages to not give you an answer to your question. 

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Posted

Safest thing to do is to repot with fresh potting mix designed for potted palms (palm balanced NPK+Mg, Mn,Fe) instead of adding your own fertilizer. 

If you do add too much to one, take it out, flush the root system with water and repot.  They can be saved (saved a tiny pindo seedling I accidentally added too much to) 

For mine, I usually keep an eye over the growth rate over a period of weeks, and if I see little to no change in growth I'll try microdosing palm fertilizer to see if it progresses positively or negatively. Or I'll use a no burn pledge type safe palm fertilizer in a slightly lower dose than recommended. 

Amazon has some good liquid potted palm fertilizer products that you can underdose with, and Home depot/Lowes usually carry regular 3 month palm specific fertilizer that you can use for slow release, or to mix your own potting mix with.

Hope that helps. 

  • Upvote 1

Favorite palms: Pindo/Jubaea/Mule variants, Large Sabals Climate: High humidity subtropical Lowest seen: 16F throughout the day Soil type: Heavy red southeastern clay

Posted

For dry fertilizers, a single coffee scoop every 2-months for a 10-in pot is probably ok. Two scoops for a 24-in pot.

With liquids, I water first, then fertilize an hour later. This way there's hydrostatic tension and the fert doesn't run out the bottom.

  • Like 3
Posted
2 hours ago, SeanK said:

For dry fertilizers, a single coffee scoop every 2-months for a 10-in pot is probably ok. Two scoops for a 24-in pot.

With liquids, I water first, then fertilize an hour later. This way there's hydrostatic tension and the fert doesn't run out the bottom.

Oh Lord why did I have to read that last part? Sean I've already got a 7 foot banana and I haven't been doing this with the liquid Banana Fuel. I do dump the runoff into other pots, but uhh now I think the rest of them might catch up before it's outside time. 

  • Like 1

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