florida 2025-2026 Florida Winter

[TropicsEnjoyer]

@Palmarum best of luck to you and everyone else here trying to keep palms alive and warm. 
My battle is not a very difficult one because I don’t have a bunch of big palms, just 2 young queens, a few dates, a little rhapis, a fishtail and a sylvestris. Backyard queen got covered and wrapped with lights bc my backyard gets a bit colder than the front. My rhapis, despite being minuscule, has barely been affected. My front yard queen has faced a bit more frost bc I am not protecting it but it gets full day sun. Phoenix seedlings too have been pretty tough, and my mature sylvester doesn’t show much difference. Caryota mitis is the only palm I went all out protecting, with a real bedsheet and 2 sets of lights. When it gets big within the next year or two protecting it might become a problem though. With temp drops into mid to low 20s within the next days all I can really do now is sit inside, be warm and be hopeful. 

[kinzyjr]

Some folks had pondered how this freeze would stack up against other freezes, particularly the cold in January 2010 and December 2010.  On the CFPACS Publications page, you can check the stations in your area of Florida to see what the minimum temperature was and what the days before and after the cold snap(s) looked like:

https://cfpacs.com/org/palmateer/

The links to the maps of the cold snaps are in the red box, and the records used to generate the maps in Excel format are in the green box.

The default layer for the Map of Florida Impact Freezes (1981 - Jan. 2022) link is Jan_1985.  To change it on mobile, click the title at the bottom of the screen.

When the Google Maps were made, we were allowed 10 layers per map.  They are easy to change on a PC with a web browser.  Mobile is a little tricky.  To display the December 2010 map (the closest to our expected weather pattern), uncheck the Jan_1985 box (in green) and check the Dec_2010 box (in red).  Once you have the layer checked, press the Back button (in blue).

You can now peruse the state and view the records for the available NOAA weather station records from December 2010 by clicking on the dots.

Feel free to check out the other maps and additional resources on the site.  It probably wouldn't hurt to bookmark it since we keep it updated with new resources frequently.  Let me know if you have any questions on how to use something or find any broken links.

[MikeB]

As we all watch this cold air mass get closer to us in Florida I am wondering if anything has changed.  Is it still as bad as predicted?  Will the temps be milder than originally thought or worse?

Yesterday I scanned eight different weather websites for my lows in Northeast Florida for Sunday morning.  The range was from 24 to 33 degrees.  There was a similar spread for Monday morning.  The weather gurus on this site know where to look for accurate information.  What's the latest? Is it as bad as originally predicted?

[kinzyjr]

23 minutes ago, MikeB said:

As we all watch this cold air mass get closer to us in Florida I am wondering if anything has changed.  Is it still as bad as predicted?  Will the temps be milder than originally thought or worse?

Yesterday I scanned eight different weather websites for my lows in Northeast Florida for Sunday morning.  The range was from 24 to 33 degrees.  There was a similar spread for Monday morning.  The weather gurus on this site know where to look for accurate information.  What's the latest? Is it as bad as originally predicted?

I typically just visit the NWS site and Weather.com.  It's good to visit your local weather forecast office's site as well as they sometimes have more accurate info posted more frequently.  The WFO sites are:

• Jacksonville: https://www.weather.gov/jax/
• Melbourne: https://www.weather.gov/mlb/
• Miami: https://www.weather.gov/mfl/
• Mobile/Pensacola: https://www.weather.gov/mob/ 
• Tallahassee: https://www.weather.gov/tae/
• Tampa: https://www.weather.gov/tbw/

The Tampa and Melbourne offices typically release Cold Weather Decision Support (Cold Weather DSS) maps that give you a view of the region.  Once in a while I see them from the Jacksonville office, but not as often.  The map you'll want is probably this one:

https://www.weather.gov/jax/graphics?domain=FireWx&element=MinT

[ruskinPalms]

Got lots of frost and frozen dew here this morning. I don’t have a thermometer that works at this time but looking at PWS readings near me it was 35 for the low in my area. It went up to the low 70’s today. 

[Sabal_Louisiana]

2 hours ago, MikeB said:

As we all watch this cold air mass get closer to us in Florida I am wondering if anything has changed.  Is it still as bad as predicted?  Will the temps be milder than originally thought or worse?

Yesterday I scanned eight different weather websites for my lows in Northeast Florida for Sunday morning.  The range was from 24 to 33 degrees.  There was a similar spread for Monday morning.  The weather gurus on this site know where to look for accurate information.  What's the latest? Is it as bad as originally predicted?

Lowest temps for St Augustine:

as of late Thursday:

NWS 23 WEATHER.COM/WU 24 (in(ACCUWEATHER 22 GOOGLE 26

GFS 28 ECMWF 27

Trough will be digging hard into SE Atlantic. With core of coldest air at midlevels over GA this w/end.

Sat night: with notably strong NW winds; very effective advective cooling nullifying ocean warmth

Sun night: winds die as broad high settles over SE deep south/NE Gulf allowing for radiational cooling, w/quick drop after sunset

considering the optimal conditions for cold air influx, likely closer to low end numbers (23-24)

[kinzyjr]

The post by @ruskinPalms reminded me to post mine.  Temperatures in the yard were relatively close to each other: 32F-33F.  KLAL recorded just above 30F this morning.  There was frost on the roof and cars, but none in the bulk of the yard due to tree canopy.

These records will likely end up meaningless in comparison to this weekend, but the hourly airport records for the last 3 days are attached to this post as a ZIP file.

20260129_obhistory.zip

[HudsonBill]

Must be a bunch of incompetent goofballs working at the nws in Tampa. Every night there forecast is off by 5 degrees or more. Another freeze that was not predicted by anyone. At this rate I will assume I will get below freezing for the next 8 days for sure. 

[Looking Glass]

Down this way, it looks like we are going to drop back to a low 10B winter, but who knows for sure.  Soon to find out though.  Will be at least the coldest it’s been in 15 years.  I’m mostly worried about various bromeliads.  Some get leaf damage with nights in the 40s, and a few days of daytime highs in the 50s.  

 

[miamicuse]

Been busy at work this whole week and no time to do anything about this, but I am taking tomorrow off to try and protect some plants seeing that Saturday and Sunday nights will be the coldest down here in east Fort Lauderdale.  Lowest could be 31-34 but the apparent temperature "feels like" 26-28.  As far as plants are concerned, are we talking about low 30s or high 20s?

I think I will have to leave the 30'-50' tall palms on their own, just no way for me to protect them except to saturate the soil around them with water before hand.

I am going to bring in all potted plants and all hanging orchids.

But I will have to figure something out for the few dozens of orchids that are mounted on trees as well as smaller palms and about 150 or so crotons and could use some advice from those with experience doing this.

for in ground smaller plants 4' or less planted in a row next to a 6' tall wood fence, will it help if I construct a tarp where the top attaches to the top of fence, and it's stretched to the ground at say a 45 degree angle, and where it meets the ground I use landscape fabric pins to tie it to the ground.  Basically making a triangle tent consisting one side wood fence, the other side a sheet of plastic tarp, and do that along the entire 75' long fence.  Will this protect the plants inside the tarp?  I doubt it will make it warmer, but it might help with the wind.  Just not sure if this is going to move the needle, thoughts?

I have a number of smaller palms and I think some are small enough I can cover them with a plastic bin or trash can.  Can someone advice which of the following are most cold sensitive and I will protect them first in case I run out of time.  These are all planted in the ground.

Licuala cordata

Hydriastele beguinii Obi Island

Licuala grandis

Ptychosperma elegans Lisa

Caryota  mitis variegated

Licuala lauterbachii

Licuala lauterbachii var. bougainvillensis

Chamaedorea deckeriana

Areca vestiaria

Chambeyronia macrocarpa

Chambeyronia hookeri

Licuala ferruginea

Ptychosperma schefferi

I have a Hydriastele beguinii Obi Island palm that is 12' tall.  If I wrap it in tarp should I bundle the fronds and wrap them up top or wrap the trunk or both?

[SubTropicRay]

On 1/29/2026 at 10:14 AM, sonoranfans said:

this is gonna hurt, one freshly opened spear on a satakentia was fried already.  I am prepared for lots of burn and perhaps a few deaths.  We have had a run of warm 10b winters here, that ended this winter as we have been in the mid 30's at least 8-10 days already and expect 30F or lower monday morning.  I wish for the nasty humid summer heat for my palms.  Glad I have more than half my palms that can take at least 26F.  This storm looks like it could be an advective event, 2010 was radiational which is easier on palms.  Heat arising from the ground after heating by the sun can keep palms warmer with a little canopy.  Wind kills all that by blowing the heat away.  Best of luck to everyone, protect what you can protect.

Palmetto?   Tom, if you drop below 35-37F there, I'll be shocked.  Along with Anna Maria, that area is one of thee warmest areas north of Ft. Myers.  You should do fine.  The heat is coming I promise 😄.  

 

On 1/30/2026 at 2:15 AM, Looking Glass said:

Down this way, it looks like we are going to drop back to a low 10B winter, but who knows for sure. Soon to find out though.  Will be at least the coldest it’s been in 15 years.  I’m mostly worried about various bromeliads.  Some get leaf damage with nights in the 40s, and a few days of daytime highs in the 50s.  

 

Unfortunately when you live in a warmer climate,  the temp threshold for vegetative damage is higher.  I have broms in about 30 genera and few if any are damaged above freezing because they're subjected to a slower and steady drop in temps beginning in late November.  You're change from warmth to cold is more abrupt.  That said, the broms should be fine.  This cold won't be anywhere near 1989 levels.   Think 1996 or 2010 instead. 

 

[HudsonBill]

2 hours ago, miamicuse said:

Been busy at work this whole week and no time to do anything about this, but I am taking tomorrow off to try and protect some plants seeing that Saturday and Sunday nights will be the coldest down here in east Fort Lauderdale.  Lowest could be 31-34 but the apparent temperature "feels like" 26-28.  As far as plants are concerned, are we talking about low 30s or high 20s?

I think I will have to leave the 30'-50' tall palms on their own, just no way for me to protect them except to saturate the soil around them with water before hand.

I am going to bring in all potted plants and all hanging orchids.

But I will have to figure something out for the few dozens of orchids that are mounted on trees as well as smaller palms and about 150 or so crotons and could use some advice from those with experience doing this.

for in ground smaller plants 4' or less planted in a row next to a 6' tall wood fence, will it help if I construct a tarp where the top attaches to the top of fence, and it's stretched to the ground at say a 45 degree angle, and where it meets the ground I use landscape fabric pins to tie it to the ground.  Basically making a triangle tent consisting one side wood fence, the other side a sheet of plastic tarp, and do that along the entire 75' long fence.  Will this protect the plants inside the tarp?  I doubt it will make it warmer, but it might help with the wind.  Just not sure if this is going to move the needle, thoughts?

I have a number of smaller palms and I think some are small enough I can cover them with a plastic bin or trash can.  Can someone advice which of the following are most cold sensitive and I will protect them first in case I run out of time.  These are all planted in the ground.

Licuala cordata

Hydriastele beguinii Obi Island

Licuala grandis

Ptychosperma elegans Lisa

Caryota  mitis variegated

Licuala lauterbachii

Licuala lauterbachii var. bougainvillensis

Chamaedorea deckeriana

Areca vestiaria

Chambeyronia macrocarpa

Chambeyronia hookeri

Licuala ferruginea

Ptychosperma schefferi

I have a Hydriastele beguinii Obi Island palm that is 12' tall.  If I wrap it in tarp should I bundle the fronds and wrap them up top or wrap the trunk or both?

Low 30s i woudlnt even bother protecting the chambetronia major carpal or hookeri. They do fine for me into the high 20s up here north of tampa. Only damage I've seen was hitting 27 a month after planting it it wasn't happy but recovered. 

[Merlyn]

30.6F here today versus a local airport temp of 35.  The frost is a bit heavier and built from about 7 to 8.  I'd still call it "medium" frost but nowhere close to snowlike.

The forecast for Sunday morning is still 24, so there's a really good chance I'll hit 20F.  I need to get out and take a bunch of pictures on Saturday so I can see a before-after comparison.  Here's a couple of photos of the backyard yesterday morning:

At the moment the only burned stuff is cycads, some of which will lightly burn at 30F with frost.  Repeated frosts did do "cumulative damage" but really it looks like we just had a single 27-28F frost.  The only one that took really progressively more and more damage is the Bottle on the right of the top photo.  The first frost burnt it 20% or so...then 50%, then 100%.  There's another about 5 feet to the right of the photo and it's burnt about 80%.

@sonoranfans I wanted to get your thoughts on this...initially I've always thought "frost causes the worst damage."  That's because in CA I've read a lot of 28-35F reports with minimal damage, and the same palm in a 30F frost event is torched here in FL.  My assumption is that the frost was a damage multiplier, and that windy cold fronts were not as damaging.  However...I realized this morning that I don't think I've actually had a windy sub-30F cold front here.  At least I haven't recorded one and don't remember it.  Most of my palms and cycads are hardy to around 30F anyway, so I probably wouldn't have even noticed it.  One thing I did notice is that windy cold fronts near freezing tend to burn things like the Ficus Auriculata and the Seagrapes from top to bottom...where a still frosty one just burns the top leaves to a crisp.  

With all that said, what do you think of this as a rule of thumb to stick in my mind?  "Frosty still cold fronts burn the top, exposed leaves and exposed buds, but it's generally cosmetic damage unless severe.  Windy cold fronts burn *all* the fronds top to bottom, and are more damaging to understory palms and more likely to cause trunk damage or kill the bud."  Canopy is great protection against frost, but not against a windy 25F.

Way too wordy, but it's what happens on a Friday morning when I'm tired!!!   

[SubTropicRay]

On 1/30/2026 at 8:07 AM, Merlyn said:

30.6F here today versus a local airport temp of 35.  The frost is a bit heavier and built from about 7 to 8.  I'd still call it "medium" frost but nowhere close to snowlike.

The forecast for Sunday morning is still 24, so there's a really good chance I'll hit 20F.  I need to get out and take a bunch of pictures on Saturday so I can see a before-after comparison.  Here's a couple of photos of the backyard yesterday morning:

At the moment the only burned stuff is cycads, some of which will lightly burn at 30F with frost.  Repeated frosts did do "cumulative damage" but really it looks like we just had a single 27-28F frost.  The only one that took really progressively more and more damage is the Bottle on the right of the top photo.  The first frost burnt it 20% or so...then 50%, then 100%.  There's another about 5 feet to the right of the photo and it's burnt about 80%.

@sonoranfans I wanted to get your thoughts on this...initially I've always thought "frost causes the worst damage."  That's because in CA I've read a lot of 28-35F reports with minimal damage, and the same palm in a 30F frost event is torched here in FL.  My assumption is that the frost was a damage multiplier, and that windy cold fronts were not as damaging.  However...I realized this morning that I don't think I've actually had a windy sub-30F cold front here.  At least I haven't recorded one and don't remember it.  Most of my palms and cycads are hardy to around 30F anyway, so I probably wouldn't have even noticed it.  One thing I did notice is that windy cold fronts near freezing tend to burn things like the Ficus Auriculata and the Seagrapes from top to bottom...where a still frosty one just burns the top leaves to a crisp.  

With all that said, what do you think of this as a rule of thumb to stick in my mind?  "Frosty still cold fronts burn the top, exposed leaves and exposed buds, but it's generally cosmetic damage unless severe.  Windy cold fronts burn *all* the fronds top to bottom, and are more damaging to understory palms and more likely to cause trunk damage or kill the bud."  Canopy is great protection against frost, but not against a windy 25F.

Way too wordy, but it's what happens on a Friday morning when I'm tired!!!   

Others will chime in but my preference has always been, if it's going to drop below freezing, give me no wind.  I'll take the frost.  Radiational freezes can be fought with canopy, covers, localized heat etc.  If it's going to stay above 32F, give me wind.  That keeps the frost away at those marginal temps.  Wind below freezing in Florida is the worst case scenario.  

 

When this whole episode is done, I'll be curious about how the list of palms below perform in central Florida.  For years, I've heard how much cold they could tolerate.  I've planted them all based on this but still doubt they can tolerate the worst a 9b winter can throw at you.  This isn't the worst but bad enough to be a good test.  These weren't as widely planted back in 2010 so this is the first real, widespread test in a multitude of locations and conditions. 

Beccariophoenix alfredii

Chambeyronia macrocarpa

Chambeyronia (Kentiopsis) oliviformis

Chrysalidocarpus (Dypsis) pembana

 

[PalmBossTampa]

1 hour ago, SubTropicRay said:

When this whole episode is done, I'll be curious about how the list of palms below perform in central Florida.  For years, I've heard how much cold they could tolerate.  I've planted them all based on this but still doubt they can tolerate the worst a 9b winter can throw at you.  This isn't the worst but bad enough to be a good test.  These weren't as widely planted back in 2010 so this is the first real, widespread test in a multitude of locations and conditions. 

Beccariophoenix alfredii

Chambeyronia macrocarpa

Chambeyronia (Kentiopsis) oliviformis

Chrysalidocarpus (Dypsis) pembana

 

The bottom 3 got toasted for me last winter in Lithia .Young plants though 3-7gal. And planted in open areas

[SeanK]

Rain Saturday AM south of I4, then a chance of flurries west of I75 as the cold pushes south. 

[flplantguy]

I agree on wind vs no wind with canopy.  the ideal is dense canopy with the freeze being still and covers on the most vulnerable. My front yard is wind exposed and the back is not, and the difference for both types of freezes is stark. I'm giving up on the front unless it's xeric and frost tolerant, but the area has potential for other things that are ok with it. I don't mind a challenge but this area is full of them, including flurries I guess when the pattern is just right.  Definitely want the radiational freeze, even if it's more regular and damaging for my open yard areas, since the back in spots goes untouched.  All this is irrelevant if the temp at 32.? degrees though, then you want a slight breeze or wind.  Florida is such a fickle place to garden in.

[Matthew92]

 

 

[MarkC]

That early cold wave in the middle of the second week of November may have been an omen. It left me with symptoms of cold denial. Now we are at the end of January getting beach bullied by the arctic with little end in sight. 

[pj_orlando_z9b]

On 1/30/2026 at 8:37 AM, SubTropicRay said:

When this whole episode is done, I'll be curious about how the list of palms below perform in central Florida.  For years, I've heard how much cold they could tolerate.  I've planted them all based on this but still doubt they can tolerate the worst a 9b winter can throw at you.  This isn't the worst but bad enough to be a good test.  These weren't as widely planted back in 2010 so this is the first real, widespread test in a multitude of locations and conditions. 

Beccariophoenix alfredii

Chambeyronia macrocarpa

Chambeyronia (Kentiopsis) oliviformis

Chrysalidocarpus (Dypsis) pembana

 

I'll let you know how this beccariophoenix does in Orlando. Current forecast is 25F. Way too big to protect so I'll just water the soil well

 

On 1/30/2026 at 8:37 AM, SubTropicRay said:

When this whole episode is done, I'll be curious about how the list of palms below perform in central Florida.  For years, I've heard how much cold they could tolerate.  I've planted them all based on this but still doubt they can tolerate the worst a 9b winter can throw at you.  This isn't the worst but bad enough to be a good test.  These weren't as widely planted back in 2010 so this is the first real, widespread test in a multitude of locations and conditions. 

Beccariophoenix alfredii

Chambeyronia macrocarpa

Chambeyronia (Kentiopsis) oliviformis

Chrysalidocarpus (Dypsis) pembana

 

I'll let you know how this beccariophoenix does in Orlando. Current forecast is 25F. Way too big to protect so I'll just water the soil well

[Looking Glass]

3 hours ago, SubTropicRay said:

Unfortunately when you live in a warmer climate,  the temp threshold for vegetative damage is higher.  I have broms in about 30 genera and few if any are damaged above freezing because they're subjected to a slower and steady drop in temps beginning in late November.  You're change from warmth to cold is more abrupt.  That said, the broms should be fine.  This cold won't be anywhere near 1989 levels.   Think 1996 or 2010 instead. 

 

Most Neoregelias seem to do fine down to freezing.  Aechmeas are variable (especially chantnii and certain blanchetiana variants). A couple of years ago we had several nights in a row the 40s with days in the 50s.  I know it sounds weird, but a bunch out in the open got moderate leaf burns.  Those in patches partially under low trees, would burn where exposed and transition to fine under the trees.  They get big tan necrotic blotches overnight.  Crotons like Picasso’s paintbrush will defoliate. It’s not instant death like a freeze, but they look terrible for a year til they grow out.  I’ve got hundreds of bromeliads now.  Many in the ground.  A bunch of the prized ones in pots will be going under the roof at least.  

[JLM]

With a low somewhere near 20F forecasted for tomorrow night, and winds now expected to remain gusty throughout the night, wind chills are expected to get down to single digits here, potentially as low as 5F. Aside from worrying about plants, wind chills this low is very dangerous. If you live in northern FL, avoid going outside if possible Sunday morning and if you have to, bundle up really well.

As far as plants go, my Queens probably get defoliated regardless, they're already showing signs of minor burn from 21F earlier this week. Even if the temperature itself doesn't burn the fronds completely, I'm sure the extremely dry wind will.

[Merlyn]

5 hours ago, SubTropicRay said:

When this whole episode is done, I'll be curious about how the list of palms below perform in central Florida.  For years, I've heard how much cold they could tolerate.  I've planted them all based on this but still doubt they can tolerate the worst a 9b winter can throw at you.  This isn't the worst but bad enough to be a good test.  These weren't as widely planted back in 2010 so this is the first real, widespread test in a multitude of locations and conditions. 

Beccariophoenix alfredii

Chambeyronia macrocarpa

Chambeyronia (Kentiopsis) oliviformis

Chrysalidocarpus (Dypsis) pembana

 

I've had a couple of Darwin experiments with the above.  So far in my experience,

• Alfredii is fine down to 24.6F and frost.  Some leaf burn but nothing major.
• Macrocarpa = dead in the open, some burn under cover but ok.  They died of bud rot.  I have several survivors of 26-27F that were under canopy and generally recovered just fine.
• Oliviformis = dead, but all were barely 2' tall in the ground and without cover.  Likely bud rot, but hard to say.  I've never tried a large one.
• Pembana = lost some trunks at 25F with frost, easily defoliated like Lutescens.  I had one cluster completely die from trunk rots after the 25F frost.  I have two more clusters that are 3-5' tall, we shall see!!!
•  

[MarkC]

Been driving around the Naples area and even though this winter the fronts haven’t been as typically linear with the cold being west of the gulf, as in the previous four years I’ve owned a home here, there’s clear demarcations driving west on Pine Ridge going into Golden Gate proper.

The cocos about 1.5 miles west of i75 are really looking iffy(there’s several very prominent tall ones that are visible). Theres a home with a fairly large(for FL standards) plumeria that has taken a beating and is mostly defoliated. 

Took some photos around Baker Park which is much closer to the coast than my home(my location is typically 2F colder during the nights and 1-2F warmer during the days) and things are visibly unhappy. 

[Matthew92]

23 hours ago, MarkC said:

Things are starting to get dicey at Disney, though the Foxtails are still looking good. Not for long, I bet the last remaining bottle palm in Adventure land in Magic Kingdom is not long for this world. I hope they protect that beautiful Satakentia adjacent to Pirates Of The Carribean. Took this the other day at Animal Kingdom.

There’s a ton of stuff at Disney and Universal that will be seriously damaged if this event pans out the way it’s forecast. I know Eric in Orlando is more up to speed on what’s there at Disney especially but this is what I can think of off the top of my head. 

-Coconut palms and a lot of warm zone 10 tropical vegetation at Volcano bay at Universal. I had heard from employees who worked there in Jan 2018 that they had heaters on the Cocos. Not sure how that will work with 35 mph winds and these temps 

-I recall at the new hotel they built at Disneys Polynesian Resort some good sized Satakentia planted on the backside facing the lake. And of course there’s just so many tender tropicals at the Polynesian already. 

-Numerous Pandanus around the Disney Parks: one notable one in Tomorrowland at Magic Kingdom and a few in Avatar land at Animal Kingdom.

-Plants like Shefflera arboricola, Copperleaf/Acalypha, Duranta erecta are used as a standard shrub hedges all around the parks and Orlando in general. They will for sure come back from larger branches or the base of the plant if dieback occurs but wow that would be a lot of brown foliage to look at for a little while.

-The common stuff like Bottle/Spindle Palms, Croton, Adonidia, Ficus, Wodyetia, Philodendron, and Monstera will probably be quite a sore sight.

-Heliconia and Gingers, and Strelitzia are practically used as foundation plants in the Orlando area nowadays. Many will probably have to start from the ground up after this.

-I’m curious how Royal Poincianas will do. I don’t recall reports of high damage in these from Jan 2018 but maybe I forget. I know I’ve seen some good sized ones in the Orlando area that didn’t seem to show evidence of significant past damage.

-One of the saving graces though is that it’s been so long since freezes like this in the Orlando and other areas that some of these plants are so large their size is in their favor to better withstand this freeze event.

[MarkC]

1 minute ago, Matthew92 said:

There’s a ton of stuff at Disney and Universal that will be seriously damaged if this event pans out the way it’s forecast. 

-Coconut palms and a lot of warm zone 10 tropical vegetation at Volcano bay at Universal. I had heard from employees who worked there in Jan 2018 that they had heaters on the Cocos. Not sure how that will work with 35 mph winds and these temps 

-I recall at the new hotel they built at Disneys Polynesian Resort some good sized Satakentia planted on the backside facing the lake. And of course there’s just so many tender tropicals at the Polynesian already. 

-Numerous Pandanus around the Disney Parks: one notable one in Tomorrowland at Magic Kingdom and a few in Avatar land at Animal Kingdom.

-Plants like Shefflera arboricola and Duranta erects are used as a standard shrub hedges all around the parks and Orlando in general. They will for sure come back from larger branches or the base of the plant if dieback occurs but wow that would be a lot of brown foliage to look at for a little while.

-The common stuff like Bottle/Spindle Palms, Adonidia, Ficus, Roystonea, Philodendron, and Monstera will probably be quite a sore sight.

-Heliconia and Gingers, and Strelitzia are practically used as foundation plants in the Orlando area nowadays. Many will probably have to start from the ground up after this.

-I’m curious how Royal Poincianas will do. I don’t recall reports of high damage in these from Jan 2018 but maybe I forget. I know I’ve seen some good sized ones in the Orlando area that didn’t seem to show evidence of significant past damage.

-One of the saving graces though is that it’s been so long since freezes like this in the Orlando and other areas that some of these plants are so large their size is in their favor to better withstand this freeze event.

 

 

I’ve seen Disney put covers on the flowers a few times in the past, they also will wrap large swathes of tropicals in some sort of dense netting. I’m guessing they have some root heating system built in to some of the more tender, large-scale plantings. However a lot of ficus and the kapoks are already damaged before the real cold has even arrived. I don’t know what will be left of them. But I’ve watched the ficus at Magic Kingdom diminish.

 

[UK_Palms]

47 minutes ago, MarkC said:

I’ve seen Disney put covers on the flowers a few times in the past, they also will wrap large swathes of tropicals in some sort of dense netting. I’m guessing they have some root heating system built in to some of the more tender, large-scale plantings. However a lot of ficus and the kapoks are already damaged before the real cold has even arrived. I don’t know what will be left of them. But I’ve watched the ficus at Magic Kingdom diminish.

 

 

How cold has Orlando already got down to this spell, ahead of the weekend blitz? 25F?

[MarkC]

1 minute ago, UK_Palms said:

 

How cold has Orlando already got down to this spell, ahead of the weekend blitz? 25F?

The Disney parks are about 20 miles west south west of downtown Orlando and are at least a few degrees colder. The Orlando city limits actually cut one of the parking lots in half for Disney Springs adjacent to Central Casting off i4. My guess is that they have seen mid thirties already. But they’ve gotten hit by a number of cold fronts going back to November. 

[UK_Palms]

20 minutes ago, MarkC said:

The Disney parks are about 20 miles west south west of downtown Orlando and are at least a few degrees colder. The Orlando city limits actually cut one of the parking lots in half for Disney Springs adjacent to Central Casting off i4. My guess is that they have seen mid thirties already. But they’ve gotten hit by a number of cold fronts going back to November. 

So they haven't even had an air frost yet then, if they have only seen mid 30's. Surprised there is much damage showing then on trees and stuff. Most things do okay as long as it doesn't dip below freezing.

[Matthew92]

1 hour ago, MarkC said:

I’ve seen Disney put covers on the flowers a few times in the past, they also will wrap large swathes of tropicals in some sort of dense netting. I’m guessing they have some root heating system built in to some of the more tender, large-scale plantings. However a lot of ficus and the kapoks are already damaged before the real cold has even arrived. I don’t know what will be left of them. But I’ve watched the ficus at Magic Kingdom diminish.

 

I believe that’s a Magnolia grandiflora pictured there. 

I think there’s some Ficus species interspersed throughout Adventureland. 

[MarkC]

9 minutes ago, UK_Palms said:

So they haven't even had an air frost yet then, if they have only seen mid 30's. Surprised there is much damage showing then on trees and stuff. Most things do okay as long as it doesn't dip below freezing.

I went back and did a quick check and it’s much worse than I imagined, numerous nights in the 30’s since November, many freezes. Here’s the ones that stick out the most:

 

 

[MarkC]

11 minutes ago, Matthew92 said:

I believe that’s a Magnolia grandiflora pictured there. 

I think there’s some Ficus species interspersed throughout Adventureland. 

It’s so mutilated, it’s hard to believe that a plant that I can grow easily in nj would look so bad in central FL, but of course, there could be other reasons. I assumed it was a type of ficus due to the extensive damage and shriveled leaves. It’s impossible to miss, visible in the queue for Tomorrowland Speedway. 

[Matthew92]

18 minutes ago, MarkC said:

It’s so mutilated, it’s hard to believe that a plant that I can grow easily in nj would look so bad in central FL, but of course, there could be other reasons. I assumed it was a type of ficus due to the extensive damage and shriveled leaves. It’s impossible to miss, visible in the queue for Tomorrowland Speedway. 

I went in person in December and also recall noticing how those are declining. Probably some kind of root problems. The species is quite variable genetically. Many Magnolia grandiflora planted in landscapes nowadays are more compact and densely branched such as Brackens Brown Beauty and DD Blanchard. To me, this one doesn’t look like a specific cultivar and looks similar to some wild ones I’ve seen that develop a somewhat unattractive sparse look with age (of course whatever malady that’s affecting this one is probably a main cause for that look too). 

[UK_Palms]

44 minutes ago, MarkC said:

I went back and did a quick check and it’s much worse than I imagined, numerous nights in the 30’s since November, many freezes. Here’s the ones that stick out the most:

 

 

So just south of Disneyland Orlando they had -2C / 28F as early as November 12th this year then.

And they have had a few nights of -2.5C / 27F this January already.

How cold do you think it will go on Sunday night there? 20F...?

[MarkC]

15 minutes ago, UK_Palms said:

 

So just south of Disneyland Orlando they had -2C / 28F as early as November 12th this year then.

And they have had a few nights of -2.5C / 27F this January already.

How cold do you think it will go on Sunday night there? 20F...?

This is what I’m seeing for the Disney bubble:

 

[Palmarum]

12 hours ago, miamicuse said:

... As far as plants are concerned, are we talking about low 30s or high 20s?

... just no way for me to protect them except to saturate the soil around them with water before hand.

I am going to bring in all potted plants and all hanging orchids.

But I will have to figure something out for the few dozens of orchids that are mounted on trees as well as smaller palms and about 150 or so crotons and could use some advice from those with experience doing this.

... will it help if I construct a tarp where the top attaches to the top of fence, and it's stretched to the ground at say a 45 degree angle, ...

... Can someone advice which of the following are most cold sensitive and I will protect them first in case I run out of time.  These are all planted in the ground.

Licuala cordata

Hydriastele beguinii Obi Island

Licuala grandis

Ptychosperma elegans Lisa

Caryota  mitis variegated

Licuala lauterbachii

Licuala lauterbachii var. bougainvillensis

Chamaedorea deckeriana

Areca vestiaria

Chambeyronia macrocarpa

Chambeyronia hookeri

Licuala ferruginea

Ptychosperma schefferi

I have a Hydriastele beguinii Obi Island palm that is 12' tall.  If I wrap it in tarp should I bundle the fronds and wrap them up top or wrap the trunk or both?

 

I am planning for upper 20sF wind chill and mid-30sF cold here in Pembroke Pines, S. Central Broward.

I am also planning to water thoroughly on the mid-sized palms and smaller stuff in the ground. 

I brought in everything. If it can be moved I moved it. My wheelbarrow got a workout. I have some containerized items, like Sabal minor variants and Encephalaros sp. that could prolly take the cold, but they are in pots and have never seen this cold and wind chill before. Taking no chances. 

For the orchids I have in trees I have been wrapping them with pillowcases and taping or pinning them together after wrapping. Larger ones get bed sheets. I have a few crotons but they are small. They are getting pvc-pipe frames and more bed sheets, small tarps. The sheets are taped on, the pvc-pipe is taped to trunks, walls, etc. As for which Croton cultivars should be protected before others, I do not know them well enough.

Your tarp at a 45-degree angle idea is a good one and should be a lot of protection compared to nothing. The key is to make it strong enough for the 30-mph gusts we may get. Any blockage of the wind counts for a lot. Try to avoid having any plastic sheeting make contact with plant surfaces as they may cause damage. 

Everything on your list needs to be protected if possible, but for an order of most urgent to less...

A. Licuala cordata - Hydriastele beguinii 'Obi Island' - Licuala grandis - Areca vestiaria

B. Licuala lauterbachii and the var. bougainvillensis - Licuala ferruginea

C. Ptychosperma elegans 'Lisa' - Caryota mitis variegated - Chamaedorea deckeriana - Chambeyronia macrocarpa - C. hookeri - Ptychosperma schefferi

If the 12 ft. tall Hydriastele beguinii 'Obi Island' is in addition to the one on the list, it should be a priority. Start with tying the leaves up, then wrap the crown and the crownshaft with blankets and sheets. Wrap the trunk last. Tying those bifid leaves might be tricky. Start at the petioles while holding them together, squeeze upwards and wrap with twine, etc. 

Adding bundles of Xmas lights or other corded lights, individual incandescent bulbs could help under any covered structure. I may do this for some smaller things in-ground, but I haven't decided yet. Most of my sensitive stuff is too large to cover. Keep the bulbs away from anything that can burn.

Ryan

[HudsonBill]

15 minutes ago, Palmarum said:

 

I am planning for upper 20sF wind chill and mid-30sF cold here in Pembroke Pines, S. Central Broward.

I am also planning to water thoroughly on the mid-sized palms and smaller stuff in the ground. 

I brought in everything. If it can be moved I moved it. My wheelbarrow got a workout. I have some containerized items, like Sabal minor variants and Encephalaros sp. that could prolly take the cold, but they are in pots and have never seen this cold and wind chill before. Taking no chances. 

For the orchids I have in trees I have been wrapping them with pillowcases and taping or pinning them together after wrapping. Larger ones get bed sheets. I have a few crotons but they are small. They are getting pvc-pipe frames and more bed sheets, small tarps. The sheets are taped on, the pvc-pipe is taped to trunks, walls, etc. As for which Croton cultivars should be protected before others, I do not know them well enough.

Your tarp at a 45-degree angle idea is a good one and should be a lot of protection compared to nothing. The key is to make it strong enough for the 30-mph gusts we may get. Any blockage of the wind counts for a lot. Try to avoid having any plastic sheeting make contact with plant surfaces as they may cause damage. 

Everything on your list needs to be protected if possible, but for an order of most urgent to less...

A. Licuala cordata - Hydriastele beguinii 'Obi Island' - Licuala grandis - Areca vestiaria

B. Licuala lauterbachii and the var. bougainvillensis - Licuala ferruginea

C. Ptychosperma elegans 'Lisa' - Caryota mitis variegated - Chamaedorea deckeriana - Chambeyronia macrocarpa - C. hookeri - Ptychosperma schefferi

If the 12 ft. tall Hydriastele beguinii 'Obi Island' is in addition to the one on the list, it should be a priority. Start with tying the leaves up, then wrap the crown and the crownshaft with blankets and sheets. Wrap the trunk last. Tying those bifid leaves might be tricky. Start at the petioles while holding them together, squeeze upwards and wrap with twine, etc. 

Adding bundles of Xmas lights or other corded lights, individual incandescent bulbs could help under any covered structure. I may do this for some smaller things in-ground, but I haven't decided yet. Most of my sensitive stuff is too large to cover. Keep the bulbs away from anything that can burn.

Ryan

I wrapped all my king palms up then covered them in incandescent chrostmas lights and then wrapped them with frost cloth. My mangos, sapadilla etc I built enclosures cicered them and have heat lamps under them. I did thsi to 10 or so fruit trees and palms on top of the kings. We have already been into the upper 20s many times this year. 

[flplantguy]

Tape won't hold well if it gets wet and sometimes gives in the wind anyway. The metal clamps that the big box stores have can clamp to the PVC and hold it while the tape seals gaps. It's rickety but can work if you do it right and babysit it if it gets wind damaged. My temp greenhouse is done that way with some key spots screwed on for support and it works well once you figure out the best clamp spots.

[Aceraceae]

2 hours ago, UK_Palms said:

 

So just south of Disneyland Orlando they had -2C / 28F as early as November 12th this year then.

And they have had a few nights of -2.5C / 27F this January already.

How cold do you think it will go on Sunday night there? 20F...?

This is crazy for early November in central florida. This would tie the monthly record low for Orlando, or at least the airport on the southeast side of town. 

[miamicuse]

On some smaller palms like 1' or less, is it OK to use cover it with a 25 gallon pot turned upside down?  Will that keep out the wind?  But the plastic pot may touch some of the leaves and that's a no no?

Just went to the closet and found half a dozen rolls of polyester IKEA window blinds.  Can those be used to wrap my orchids that are rooted onto trees and palms?