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What is this damage on Mapu’s new spear


Missi

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Spear starting to loosen up and open, necrotic area visible. Spear will not pull with gently moderate effort. What can be done, or is it “just” an injury and not something more severe?

ETA: Has not been repotted in 3 or 4 years or so. Watered with rain or distilled water a few times a week. Lightly fertilized once a year if that.

I have been misting it down several mornings a week while I wait for rainy season to arrive.

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Naples (inland), FL - technically 10a but more like 9b in the winter :hmm:

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I've had similar spear damage as a result of cold and phytophthora infection.  If you squirt a little 3% hydrogen peroxide in there, it might bubble up.  If so there could be a bud infection.  I have been using a mix of 4tsp Daconil per 32oz jug of hydrogen peroxide.  That was a recommendation from someone on here.  Another recommendation was Mancozeb, but I haven't tried it yet.

I don't know how cold-tolerant Mapu is, some Licuala are hardy into the low 20s and others take severe damage at 35...

 

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Maybe time for a repot? After 4 years that soil might be dreck. All the best for it. This species does not survive long for me.

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Meg

Palms of Victory I shall wear

Cape Coral (It's Just Paradise)
Florida
Zone 10A on the Isabelle Canal
Elevation: 15 feet

I'd like to be under the sea in an octopus' garden in the shade.

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On 5/22/2023 at 8:21 AM, Merlyn said:

I've had similar spear damage as a result of cold and phytophthora infection.  If you squirt a little 3% hydrogen peroxide in there, it might bubble up.  If so there could be a bud infection.  I have been using a mix of 4tsp Daconil per 32oz jug of hydrogen peroxide.  That was a recommendation from someone on here.  Another recommendation was Mancozeb, but I haven't tried it yet.

I don't know how cold-tolerant Mapu is, some Licuala are hardy into the low 20s and others take severe damage at 35...

 

Thank you so much! I did actually squirt it with some hydrogen peroxide all over and around the new spear and meristem/growth point. There was plenty of frothing and a sort of “gas” that was emitted. It was quite concerning to see and honestly made me feel disheartened. I also sprayed it with copper fungicide but have read that is more for a preventative than a cure to an active infection.

Do you are adding 4 tsp to 32 oz of straight 3% hydrogen peroxide? Are you having success or in the waiting period?

Mapu is not at all cold tolerant compared to the other in the genus or any other palm. In the winter I bring it inside any night it is predicted to be at or below low 50 degrees F.

On 5/22/2023 at 8:35 AM, PalmatierMeg said:

Maybe time for a repot? After 4 years that soil might be dreck. All the best for it. This species does not survive long for me.

I think you are absolutely right, per usual! ☺️

Naples (inland), FL - technically 10a but more like 9b in the winter :hmm:

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4 minutes ago, Missi said:

Thank you so much! I did actually squirt it with some hydrogen peroxide all over and around the new spear and meristem/growth point. There was plenty of frothing and a sort of “gas” that was emitted. It was quite concerning to see and honestly made me feel disheartened. I also sprayed it with copper fungicide but have read that is more for a preventative than a cure to an active infection.

Do you are adding 4 tsp to 32 oz of straight 3% hydrogen peroxide? Are you having success or in the waiting period?

Mapu is not at all cold tolerant compared to the other in the genus or any other palm. In the winter I bring it inside any night it is predicted to be at or below low 50 degrees F.

I think you are absolutely right, per usual! ☺️

Hydrogen peroxide reacts to fungi and bacteria and bubbles up with a foamy gas.  The gas is pure oxygen, it's the "unstable molecule" H2O2 that breaks down into H2O and O2.  The foaming means it's killing off some kind of fungus or bacteria, though there's no way to know what type it is. 

For the Daconil, someone on here suggested it because hydrogen peroxide is very effective but lasts for ~10 seconds.  Anything that's left behind is water, which might not be great in the crown of an infected plant.  And there's no residual effect.  Daconil is kind of sticky, so it makes sense to leave behind in the crown to kill whatever is left, and inhibit new growth.  I just put a couple tsp into the big bottle and shake before using.  If you have 16oz H2O2 bottles then 2tsp may be about the right concentration.  I've been using it for ~2 years with good success.  I haven't done a double-blind scientific study to know if the success rate is due to H2O2, Daconil, or the combo.  It just seems to work so I keep doing it!  :D

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1 hour ago, Merlyn said:

Hydrogen peroxide reacts to fungi and bacteria and bubbles up with a foamy gas.  The gas is pure oxygen, it's the "unstable molecule" H2O2 that breaks down into H2O and O2.  The foaming means it's killing off some kind of fungus or bacteria, though there's no way to know what type it is. 

For the Daconil, someone on here suggested it because hydrogen peroxide is very effective but lasts for ~10 seconds.  Anything that's left behind is water, which might not be great in the crown of an infected plant.  And there's no residual effect.  Daconil is kind of sticky, so it makes sense to leave behind in the crown to kill whatever is left, and inhibit new growth.  I just put a couple tsp into the big bottle and shake before using.  If you have 16oz H2O2 bottles then 2tsp may be about the right concentration.  I've been using it for ~2 years with good success.  I haven't done a double-blind scientific study to know if the success rate is due to H2O2, Daconil, or the combo.  It just seems to work so I keep doing it!  :D

I am obsessively researching Phytophthora in palms this afternoon and learning about fungicides. I'm not sure why I haven't' seen Daconil mentioned as treatment for it! Maybe because most text is for larger scale growers? Is it the concentrate or the ready-to-use Daconil formula you mix with the H2O2? Also, thanks again for the info!!

Naples (inland), FL - technically 10a but more like 9b in the winter :hmm:

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57 minutes ago, Missi said:

I am obsessively researching Phytophthora in palms this afternoon and learning about fungicides. I'm not sure why I haven't' seen Daconil mentioned as treatment for it! Maybe because most text is for larger scale growers? Is it the concentrate or the ready-to-use Daconil formula you mix with the H2O2? Also, thanks again for the info!!

Yes, I use the regular Daconil concentrate, I think I bought it at Ace Hardware.  Chorothanonil is rated against a variety of Anthracnose, Phytophthora, leaf blights, rusts, etc.  It's a broad spectrum non-systemic, contact only fungicide.  Honestly, Mancozeb or Fosetyl-Al might be better choices.  I don't know if they are compatible in a mix with H2O2 though...

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I have similar damage on my Livistona saribus.  Don't know what it could be.  

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On 5/22/2023 at 5:07 AM, Missi said:

Spear starting to loosen up and open, necrotic area visible. Spear will not pull with gently moderate effort. What can be done, or is it “just” an injury and not something more severe?

ETA: Has not been repotted in 3 or 4 years or so. Watered with rain or distilled water a few times a week. Lightly fertilized once a year if that.

I have been misting it down several mornings a week while I wait for rainy season to arrive.

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Highly likely cold damage. My Licuala grandis is showing cold damage from at least a year ago, it is such a slow grower here it takes time for damage to show up. Last summer was such a good growing season for it, it has taken me by surprise. Here is a photo of the damage. I don't very often water top down so the fronds are mostly kept dry. The emerging frond is tinder dry and no sign of fugus. Never had this complete dead emerging frond before in 30 years of growth but plenty of brown off such as your palm is showing. Hope yours recovers well. 

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Port Macquarie NSW Australia

Warm temperate to subtropical

Record low of -2C at airport 2006

Pushing the limit of palm survivabilities

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@Reyes VargasI'd guess a bud phytophthora infection on your Saribus, too.  It doesn't need to get too cold for an infection to get into the bud, but they seem more common coming out of the winter.  Saribus isn't the hardiest Livistona, taking moderate burn around 25 and possible death below 23F.  Cold snaps near or below freezing could contribute to an infection.  I'd do the hydrogen peroxide check and see if there's bubbling.  Sometimes a squirt of H2O2 every week for a couple of weeks will cure it...sometimes not.

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Well I repotted it a couple nights ago. It was quite root bound but the roots looked really healthy. The largest roots were looking for a way out of the pot and lots of smaller roots were growing up toward the pot opening. The potting media in the middle was completely broken down and almost clay-like even with some coarse media so I have no doubt that was smothering the central roots. I gently removed most of that and repotted in a slightly larger pot with the media being a third Miracle Gro cactus/palm soil, a third coconut coir, and a third coarse pumice.

I will be starting Daconil treatments this morning. 🤞🏻🙏🏻

Naples (inland), FL - technically 10a but more like 9b in the winter :hmm:

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Hi, it sounds like you're giving it good care. My best guess is it could be cold related damage that is now showing up.

Jeff

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Searle Brothers Nursery Inc.

and The Rainforest Collection.

Southwest Ranches,Fl.

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On 5/26/2023 at 7:16 PM, Jeff Searle said:

Hi, it sounds like you're giving it good care. My best guess is it could be cold related damage that is now showing up.

Jeff

Thank Jeff! Thank you for your reply!! I sure hope that’s all it is. Watching it like a hawk, treating with H2O2 annd Daconil and hoping and praying it pushes healthy growth soon.

Naples (inland), FL - technically 10a but more like 9b in the winter :hmm:

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