Palms and root knot nematodes

[Plantking165]

So I ordered seeds fir royal palms and I was curious about palms and root knot nematodes I recently found some in my yard. I know some palms are subseptable to them but couldn't find anything about royals and root knot nematodes. Has anyone had any experience with them and palms?

[Merlyn]

2 hours ago, Plantking165 said:

So I ordered seeds fir royal palms and I was curious about palms and root knot nematodes I recently found some in my yard. I know some palms are subseptable to them but couldn't find anything about royals and root knot nematodes. Has anyone had any experience with them and palms?

I haven't heard of any issues with nematodes and royals.  Royals are grown all over central to South FL, so I doubt they are susceptible. 

[kinzyjr]

@Plantking165

If you aren't far from Lake Starr, there is a large one on Starr Ridge Dr.  It looks like the trunk is rotting at the bottom, so it may not be long for the world. 

[NOT A TA]

14 minutes ago, Merlyn said:

I haven't heard of any issues with nematodes and royals. 

Same here ^^^.  And I probably have around a hundred Royals from seedlings to a few years old in growers pots at any given time. Have not had issues with any other palms either.

Was discussing nematodes with my local FL Dept. of Ag. nursery inspector when he was here last week.  Since I currently only ship small stuff bare root it's not much of an issue for me, however, for those in FL shipping plants with soil there are several states that require certification that the soil is free of burrowing nematodes and an inspection tag or stamp is required with the nursery stock being shipped. The FL Dept. of AG. and Consumer services does soil sample testing before issuing the certification. For those wishing to get shipments certified they recommend using nematode free potting soil (that's not allowed to contact native soil) and then not letting the pots touch the ground.  Current list of states with the nematode cert. requirement are Arizona, Arkansas, California, Texas, and then there's Hawaii which doesn't allow any plants with soil at all.

For those selling plants in FL with soil the regulation is.   "If nursery stock has not been certified to be free of burrowing nematode, it is not to be moved to or sold for movement to, locations within 100' feet of commercial citrus groves, citrus nurseries, or approved citrus nursery sites.  A special burrowing nematode inspection tag or stamp must accompany nursery stock moved to the above mentioned restricted areas."

 

[Plantking165]

Yeah it's rough with nematodes you can't get rid of them and they affect some palms I was reading but couldn't find anything on royals so I'm guessing I'll fins out in the upcoming years when I grow them in my yard

[Plantking165]

As for that one you mentioned rotting at the base they are subseptable to ganoderma butt rot thats what it sounds like it rots the bottom of the trunk.

[Silas_Sancona]

1 hour ago, NOT A TA said:

Same here ^^^.  And I probably have around a hundred Royals from seedlings to a few years old in growers pots at any given time. Have not had issues with any other palms either.

Was discussing nematodes with my local FL Dept. of Ag. nursery inspector when he was here last week.  Since I currently only ship small stuff bare root it's not much of an issue for me, however, for those in FL shipping plants with soil there are several states that require certification that the soil is free of burrowing nematodes and an inspection tag or stamp is required with the nursery stock being shipped. The FL Dept. of AG. and Consumer services does soil sample testing before issuing the certification. For those wishing to get shipments certified they recommend using nematode free potting soil (that's not allowed to contact native soil) and then not letting the pots touch the ground.  Current list of states with the nematode cert. requirement are Arizona, Arkansas, California, Texas, and then there's Hawaii which doesn't allow any plants with soil at all.

For those selling plants in FL with soil the regulation is.   "If nursery stock has not been certified to be free of burrowing nematode, it is not to be moved to or sold for movement to, locations within 100' feet of commercial citrus groves, citrus nurseries, or approved citrus nursery sites.  A special burrowing nematode inspection tag or stamp must accompany nursery stock moved to the above mentioned restricted areas."

 

 Royals are native there.. so there's that as well.. 

Agree w/ NOT A TA's thoughts on shipping of plants from FL  ..or anywhere else really..  that aren't sent bare root.

Remember someone telling me plants that were destined for shipping to other states have to be grown on benches that are ..at least.. something like 15" off the ground..  Better if the ground below is stone, Cement, or has something that keeps native soil from splashing up onto the pots  -as best as possible.

Even here, if i were to send plants to other states in their pots,  as a pose to bare root,  i'd follow the same rules..  Thoe restrictions are something the AG folks got right..  I'd also add stuff like Crab shell meal to my non- soil  soil mix ( ..do this anyway ) to deter nematodes so the plants were as healthy as possible as they are shipped to their new homes.

[Plantking165]

I never used to have nematodes here until I recently got a nectarine tree went to plant it and it had root knots all over so there here now so I gotta be careful with what is subseptable and what isn't. Almost everything is unfortunately.

[Silas_Sancona]

9 minutes ago, Plantking165 said:

I never used to have nematodes here until I recently got a nectarine tree went to plant it and it had root knots all over so there here now so I gotta be careful with what is subseptable and what isn't. Almost everything is unfortunately.

They've been present in FL. soils ( and other areas w/ similar soil types ) for quite some time..  Is one reason Gardenias are a tough grow there, unless you know which ones are more tolerant. Applying Crab shell meal -in particularly special areas-, and planting of things like Marigolds near susceptible plants can help keep the little buggers in check.

Pretty sure there is a list ( ..or several ) there which lists most of the plants that are susceptible, tolerant, or not susceptible to nematode damage, and which plants can repel or kill nematodes..  Pretty sure that was near the top of some certification class topics studied while living there awhile back. I myself never had any nematode- related issues w/ plants i had there, or stuff i brought w/ me from out west  the last time i lived in FL.

[Plantking165]

Yeah they are quite a problem here and they aren't in every yard it'd just unfortunate that I got them now. Very few plants are unaffected by them I worry fir most plants I grow such as palms and my flytrap collection I can't even find info on them and nematodes there isn't info on plants that say they are or aren't affected and it irritates me because alot of my plants are expensive or rare for instance my flytrap collection is probably over 2k in dollars worth of money and I got rare ones and I'm unsure if the nematodes reach them how that interaction will go much less once in the roots you can't get rid of them only decrease their numbers so it's just a painful experience of trying to manage something that you can't rid yourself of.

[sonoranfans]

Nematodes thrive in our sandy florida soils.  I have been using humic acid for 18 years to control nematodes and enrich soil chemistry first in arizona then in florida for the last 11 years.   Mulch every year and use the humic acid(liquid humic is better, contains fulvic acid as well).  I am about to spray my palm roots down as the dry spring is the best time to apply since rain wont wash it away.  humic acid is basically the final decomposition product of mulch.  1 gallon of 17% humic equates to about a ton of mulch degradation product.  This allows you to rapidly alter your soil chemistry for the better.  But keep mulching as the humic will hang around longer in soil that has organics.   https://www.researchgate.net/publication/353644262_Humic_acid_-a_potential_bioresource_for_nematode_control 

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/339080353_ACTIVITY_OF_HUMIC_ACID_AGAINST_ROOT_KNOT_NEMATODES_ON_TOMATO  I do tend to target expanded root areas with the humic, concentrate it near the palm roots.  Apply when the soil is dry an hour prior to an irrigation event.  IF your palms are small, dont water long after application (dont rinse it away) and apply every 3 months.  Large palms dont need it that frequently 1-2x a year depending on your organic soil content(less with more).  Adding pesticides to my palms is something I almost never do.  Beneficial soil microbes can be killed by pesticides too.  Humic acid supports beneficial microbes in the soil while it attacks the harmful ones.  Its like natures own protectant, but you dont have to wait for your soil to have a high organic load to get the benefits.  

[Alicehunter2000]

Where do you buy Humic Acid?

 

[GoatLockerGuns]

Texas A&M recommends to plant cereal rye, also known as Elbon (apparently this is a type of grass) to help prevent root knot nematodes in South Texas...https://bexar-tx.tamu.edu/homehort/archives-of-weekly-articles-davids-plant-of-the-week/control-garden-nematodes-with-cereal-elbon-rye/.

[Johnny Palmseed]

16 hours ago, Alicehunter2000 said:

Where do you buy Humic Acid?

 

https://www.natureslawn.com/product/humic-acid/
 

This place has a lot of natural products. It’s not cheap but the stuff works. I have been using their  products for about a year or so after seeing @sonoranfans recommendation and can say that they seem to work. For example, I had put down some sod in one area in November and it was established but I accidentally shut off the sprinklers about a month ago. I noticed that the grass was stressed - yellowing and dry. I realized what happened and turned the water back on. I sprayed the area with some of their seaweed product and added some of their iron too. Literally 2 days later it looked as green and happy as can be even though the temps were still cool. It’s actively outgrowing my established area. I don’t have a before picture but this is the grass now.

[sonoranfans]

17 hours ago, Alicehunter2000 said:

Where do you buy Humic Acid?

 

I have always used www.natureslawn.com bioactivate product.  Its 17% humic liquid and has the fulvic acid too.  The dry formula doesnt have much in fulvic and it just doesnt smell the same(stinky swamp), so I expect that upon drying there is other chemistry that is lost from the digested compost.  The natureslawn bioactivate product has the highest humic acid concentration of any liquid I have found.  When I lived out west, I couldn't get bioactivate shipped for a reasonable price so I did use some powder and it worked on potted flowers for me, obvious improvement.  With small containers you don't need much.  Any additions of solid or liquid humic acid will be much appreciated by your palms as they support mycorrhizal fungus and other beneficial microbes while putting chemical stress on nematode activity.  I also recommend it for heavy clay soils as even if you ammend, it goes away.  The humic acid can be used to adjust the  bioavailable organic content of the soil in the short term, but the accelerated root growth you get should be long term if you are watering/feeding your root zones properly.  One more thing, David, is that humic acid chelates salts in sandy soil that might have hydrophobic channeling.  this allows the soil to be rinsed, cleaned of those hydrophobic salts which stunt growth.  If I have a beading of water on soil, I uually with hit it with a spray of humic, let it sit for an hour, rinse and repeat 2x more.  This ensures enough contact time to dissolve the salts.