Full sun?

[Mohsen]

I have read that if some palms are grown in Full Sun , then they should be watered more...As I have almost all my small palms in Full sun ( ) my question would be,  is this a general rule?

I have :

Beccariophienix alfreidii

butia capitata

Syagrus schizophylla

in all day full sun :

and

Jubeae

ravenea glauca

depends on the time somtimes some shade from the pine tree but most of the time in full sun

and :

Dypsis baronii

dypsis pembana

dypsis lanceolata

Wodyetia bifurcata

in most of the time full sun but sometimes ( afternoon) in shade...

links :

http://www.palmtalk.org/forum/index.php?/topic/47403-need-helpadvise-which-where-i-should-plant-palms/&page=2

and advise would be appreciated if could help me grow them better .

[Pal Meir]

In their natural habitats these species grow even as small seedlings exposed to full sun: Butia capitata, Jubaea chilensis, Ravenea glauca, Syagrus schizophylla.

[Mohsen]

19 hours ago, Pal Meir said:

In their natural habitats these species grow even as small seedlings exposed to full sun: Butia capitata, Jubaea chilensis, Ravenea glauca, Syagrus schizophylla.

Thanks Pal, that's comforting...how about Beccariophienix alfreidii , I hope this baby could tolerate all day full sun too ?

[Pal Meir]

7 minutes ago, Mohsen said:

Thanks Pal, that's comforting...how about Beccariophienix alfreidii , I hope this baby could tolerate all day full sun too ?

Yes, you are correct, I have forgotten to list it too, I don’t know why.

[Danilopez89]

You'll do fine. You seem to be excited and very interested with your new palms. The good thing about not having too many palms yet is that you can give more attention to the ones you already have and learn from them.

A good fertilizer will speed up your palms growth.

 

How are you currently watering your palms? How often?

[Kim]

Full sun can mean different things in different climates.  If you have very hot, dry full sun, inland, with reduced humidity, I should think the Ravenea glauca would appreciate some shade during the hottest times of the day.  These palms grow in very deep, narrow canyons with seasonal streams in the bottom.  While the temperatures there can soar, the canyon walls provide some protection from direct sunlight at different times of the day.  If you are very near the coast, with frequent cloud cover, this may not be an issue.

[Mohsen]

On 12/10/2015, 6:56:38, Danilopez89 said:

You'll do fine. You seem to be excited and very interested with your new palms. The good thing about not having too many palms yet is that you can give more attention to the ones you already have and learn from them.

A good fertilizer will speed up your palms growth.

 

How are you currently watering your palms? How often?

Thanks Dani

Actually I need to determine how often I need to water them? should I water them with the same period or different for each ones?( Just planted 2 days ago and we had rain after that)

I only water a lot my Bismarkia and Archontophoenix Cunninghamiana ( every other day) and ( Ravenea rivularis) almost every day as I know they love lots of water but not sure about my new ones, That would be great if you and other could give me some hints

 

[palmtreesforpleasure]

16 hours ago, Mohsen said:

I have read that if some palms are grown in Full Sun , then they should be watered more...As I have almost all my small palms in Full sun ( ) my question would be,  is this a general rule?

I have :

Beccariophienix alfreidii

butia capitata

Syagrus schizophylla

in all day full sun :

and

Jubeae Full sun

ravenea glauca Full sun

depends on the time sometimes some shade from the pine tree but most of the time in full sun

and :

Dypsis baronii        Once established , will take full sun but look better with some shade

dypsis pembana It seems it needs more humidity that we have here to be able to take full Sun here , 

dypsis lanceolata   Ditto

Wodyetia bifurcata  Full sun

in most of the time full sun but sometimes ( afternoon) in shade...

links :

http://www.palmtalk.org/forum/index.php?/topic/47403-need-helpadvise-which-where-i-should-plant-palms/&page=2

and advise would be appreciated if could help me grow them better .

Archontophoenix cunninghamiania are rain forest plants with full day shade for best results.

 Ravenea rivularis  likes water but i only water when it has been dry for a while and not that ofte

Bismarkia, once established  we leave to grow. Watering helps them but the quicker they toughen up the better

regards

colin

[Mohsen]

It seems my Dypsis Baronii and  lanceolata are burning under direct full sun ( although they have only full sun till 1:00 PM) , I might need to think a shade structure now ( if it is not too late   )

[Monòver]

3 hours ago, Mohsen said:

It seems my Dypsis Baronii and  lanceolata are burning under direct full sun ( although they have only full sun till 1:00 PM) , I might need to think a shade structure now ( if it is not too late   )

Never it is too late! Baroni and lanceolata loves the shade when young.

You must built a shade structure or plant other big fast  plants near, for example, banana trees, papaya trees,etc.

[Mohsen]

5 hours ago, Monòver said:

Never it is too late! Baroni and lanceolata loves the shade when young.

You must built a shade structure or plant other big fast  plants near, for example, banana trees, papaya trees,etc.

Thanks Monocver

as I have very limited space, planting other trees is not actually an option , I will try to make shade structure...

i hope alfreidii , butia capita and schizophylla be happy in real full sun as they getting real fearcing full sun ?

[Monòver]

You don't worry, alfredi, capitata and schizophylla are sun tolerant. But if they was growing in a shady place, it is better if you give them shadow the first months.

[Mohsen]

4 hours ago, Monòver said:

You don't worry, alfredi, capitata and schizophylla are sun tolerant. But if they was growing in a shady place, it is better if you give them shadow the first months.

It is too late for that, they have been there 4 days there now...hopefully they will be fine ... I think they have been in Sun in nursery too...I planted a D.Decaryi in full sun and it was inside as houseplant for months, it burnt a bit but now seems doing fine in full sun now...

[Mohsen]

I bought a triangle sail (93% UV blockage) and install it temporarily , it seems it covers Baroni and lanceolata but not "Wodyetia" nor "dypsis pembana"...

[Tassie_Troy1971]

Nearly all my palms are in full sun down here in coastal Hobart including Rhopalostylis and Hedyscepe but i am only 500 m from the water and hardly ever get really hot !  I water using drip irrigation for 30 min every 3 days.

[Mohsen]

On 12/14/2015, 1:12:39, Tassie_Troy1971 said:

Nearly all my palms are in full sun down here in coastal Hobart including Rhopalostylis and Hedyscepe but i am only 500 m from the water and hardly ever get really hot !  I water using drip irrigation for 30 min every 3 days.

Thanks Troy, I think I have seen many of your nice palms in palmpedia

I have never been in Tasmania but it should have cold winters? do you have frost there or because you are near water don't get that cold?

[Mohsen]

I have 3 seedlings of Kentiopsis oliviformis , Chambeyronia macrocarpa and  Normanbya normanbyi...I have 2 available location , one getting full sun almost all day but wider area and the other location side of the property and mostly shade only little sun in morning but smaller area ...I want to chose 2 of them ...

I think Normanbya normanbyi need more shade but not sure about others?

my question is which one is more full sun tolerant and how wide they will become when mature ?

[Mohsen]

On 1/11/2016, 3:35:02, Mohsen said:

I have 3 seedlings of Kentiopsis oliviformis , Chambeyronia macrocarpa and  Normanbya normanbyi...I have 2 available location , one getting full sun almost all day but wider area and the other location side of the property and mostly shade only little sun in morning but smaller area ...I want to chose 2 of them ...

I think Normanbya normanbyi need more shade but not sure about others?

my question is which one is more full sun tolerant and how wide they will become when mature ?

anyone could help me about above?

[Pal Meir]

All of those 3 species don’t like too much sun, at least as long as they are young …

[Rafael]

I would choose other species too. Those light exposition conditions are not suitable for species like kentiopsis or chambeyronia. I am growing the first one in full partial day sun and it is not in a good shape.

[Mohsen]

Thanks Pal and Rafael

I thought at least Chambeyronia macrocarpa  could grow in full sun? I put Chambeyronia macrocarpa  and Kentiopsis oliviformis under the deck which has full sun but through transplant plastic roof and seems happy about it but not sure about real full sun ?

If not I am afraid I have to keep them in pot not ground  

[DoomsDave]

2 hours ago, Mohsen said:

anyone could help me about above?

Don't know about the normambyas, but the other two definitely appreciate shade when small, but will grow up into the sun, provided you water them. (A lot.)

[DoomsDave]

Mohsen:

Young Dypsis like you have definitely appreciate shelter from the hot summer sun when they're small. I usually plant them near something large enough to give them shelter till they have a chance to toughen up a bit with size. Baronii takes the sun well; lanceolata, a lot less well, unless you're right by the ocean.

 

[DoomsDave]

Here's a picture of a large Chambeyronia, near my fully exposed rooftop. It's the palm on the right. The one on the left is an Archie purpurea.

[Cocoa Beach Jason]

Of the palms you mentioned I have the following in full blazing Florida sun (hot and humid) with supplemental reclaimed irrigation:

Dypsis pembana (got burned at first but now is perfect looking). Gets lots of water from a bubbler.

Kentiopsis Oliviformis (never burned. Looks perfect).

Chambeyronia Macrocarpa (burned at first but now all new leaves do not burn).

Dypsis Decaryi (never burns, likes my full sun, but evn though I have sandy soil I try not to directly irrigate this one because in Florida the word on the street is that these do not like to be very wet)

[Tracy]

Of the palms you mentioned I have the following in full blazing Florida sun (hot and humid) with supplemental reclaimed irrigation:

Dypsis pembana (got burned at first but now is perfect looking). Gets lots of water from a bubbler.

Kentiopsis Oliviformis (never burned. Looks perfect).

Chambeyronia Macrocarpa (burned at first but now all new leaves do not burn).

Dypsis Decaryi (never burns, likes my full sun, but evn though I have sandy soil I try not to directly irrigate this one because in Florida the word on the street is that these do not like to be very wet)

On 1/12/2016, 5:04:59, Cocoa Beach Jason said:

Of the palms you mentioned I have the following in full blazing Florida sun (hot and humid) with supplemental reclaimed irrigation:

Dypsis pembana (got burned at first but now is perfect looking). Gets lots of water from a bubbler.

Kentiopsis Oliviformis (never burned. Looks perfect).

Chambeyronia Macrocarpa (burned at first but now all new leaves do not burn).

Dypsis Decaryi (never burns, likes my full sun, but evn though I have sandy soil I try not to directly irrigate this one because in Florida the word on the street is that these do not like to be very wet)

Soil type should also be considered as well as the type of sun that you have.  My experience with D pembana is that it takes a bit less sun early than Kentiopsis oliviformis, which adapted much faster in my climate.  D pembana in partial shade stretches with much wider ring spacing compared to the ones in full sun in my garden.  I definitely give the one more water in sun than the ones in partial shade during the hottest times of summer.  Chambeyronia macrocarpa and hookerii look best where I have given them morning sun and pm shade.  I have had them in both exposures, with equal amounts of time in shade and sun, with the ones getting afternoon sun showing more burn and growing much slower.  I successfully rotted out D decaryi by overwatering in a clay soil, so can say from experience that you can over water this one. 
Lots of site specific factors which you will have to consider on the watering schedule, but hopefully you are getting some relative scale information on sun tolerance and water demands for the different species you are growing.

GPS Coordinates

33° 4' 41.4876'' N 117° 18' 17.6256'' W

 

 

[Mohsen]

Thanks Tracy for the useful comment...

Today I saw that they were splashing water o the palm from a house as today was 40 C in scorching full sun...

I read somewhere that you shouldn't put water on plants while in sun as it will cause them to be burnt ?

I am not sure which one is true? if in a very hot day of summer we have low humidity then splashing water could help palms or actually hurt them?

[Ben in Norcal]

1 hour ago, Mohsen said:

Thanks Tracy for the useful comment...

Today I saw that they were splashing water o the palm from a house as today was 40 C in scorching full sun...

I read somewhere that you shouldn't put water on plants while in sun as it will cause them to be burnt ?

I am not sure which one is true? if in a very hot day of summer we have low humidity then splashing water could help palms or actually hurt them?

In general, I recommend against this.  Water in the crown of many palms when it is hot runs a significant risk of introducing rot.  I had this issue with multiple Archontophoenix last year, so I will be avoiding that practice this year for sure.

[Mohsen]

On 12/13/2015, 2:57:16, Mohsen said:

I bought a triangle sail (93% UV blockage) and install it temporarily , it seems it covers Baroni and lanceolata but not "Wodyetia" nor "dypsis pembana"...

I need to ask this question here...in winter should I remove the shade cloth as it might help palms get warmer or not?

[nick]

@ Mohsen:

My dypsis lanceolata (approx. same size) takes nearly full sun for more than two years now in the ground without any sunburn. Same with Beccariophienix alfreidii which is still in a pot. The dypsis lanceolata gets some morning and afternoon shade from ph. roebelenii and a hedge but has to take the every day noon sun wich is very strong here. The temporary sun protection you do now could solve the problem. I would find out to go without when palms are bigger.

[steve99]

My Dypsis Lanceolata was always getting sunburnt with every new leaf suffering burn spots soon after opening, all this despite being in ground for more than two years.    In my opinion, the continual burning made the palm weak and susceptible to weevil attack. In the end, I pulled it out of the ground and replaced it with a Dypsis Tokoravina.  I doubt I'll try a Lanceolata agian.,

[Mohsen]

4 hours ago, nick said:

@ Mohsen:

My dypsis lanceolata (approx. same size) takes nearly full sun for more than two years now in the ground without any sunburn. Same with Beccariophienix alfreidii which is still in a pot. The dypsis lanceolata gets some morning and afternoon shade from ph. roebelenii and a hedge but has to take the every day noon sun wich is very strong here. The temporary sun protection you do now could solve the problem. I would find out to go without when palms are bigger.

Thanks  NICK...

My question mainly was that is the sun burnt happening in all season or only in hot summer days... and If I should remove the cloth temporarily and then install  it back when it is warmer ...

[Mohsen]

4 hours ago, steve99 said:

My Dypsis Lanceolata was always getting sunburnt with every new leaf suffering burn spots soon after opening, all this despite being in ground for more than two years.    In my opinion, the continual burning made the palm weak and susceptible to weevil attack. In the end, I pulled it out of the ground and replaced it with a Dypsis Tokoravina.  I doubt I'll try a Lanceolata agian.,

Thanks Steve,

Another worry I have is that it seems it is Cold sensitive...10a+ Here is definitely much colder than Gold Coast...

It is a million $ question for me if I could find out which US cold-hardiness I am having here  

[Howeadypsis]

We are taught as a rule the the more sun a plant receives ,the more water it requires.  In the case of succulents and cacti the only time to water IS when the sun is shining,  raising temps.  I'd imagine a similar general rule applies to palms to. The more sun, the more water.

[nick]

20 hours ago, Mohsen said:

Thanks  NICK...

My question mainly was that is the sun burnt happening in all season or only in hot summer days... and If I should remove the cloth temporarily and then install  it back when it is warmer ...

In my opinion, permanent heavy cloth protection as you did would weaken the plam and not to get used to the sun. I would prefer a net like a nursery do or start to remove this cover during the winter period. Watering the plam could also be an issue. But who knows even plams are individuals, some do better, some not and the conditions are different. Why not plant one taller one with less spacing to give some protection for the first years? It should be enough room. So plenty of choices to try something different.

Edited June 5, 2016 by nick

[Kennybenjamin]

On 4 June 2016 at 7:44:24 PM, Mohsen said:

Thanks Steve,

Another worry I have is that it seems it is Cold sensitive...10a+ Here is definitely much colder than Gold Coast...

It is a million $ question for me if I could find out which US cold-hardiness I am having here  

Dypsis lanceolata should be pretty happy in full sun, I suspect maybe yours was too wet Steve??

Mohsen.... In my opinion you will end up with stronger palms if you give them winter sun.... Short term sunburn is nothing to worry about. With regards to water on the foliage, try to avoid while palms are younger and still establishing... During winter water sparingly, water mid morning (not late evening) and try to avoid water in the leaves where possible.

My opinion and experience only.....

[Mohsen]

3 hours ago, Kennybenjamin said:

Dypsis lanceolata should be pretty happy in full sun, I suspect maybe yours was too wet Steve??

Mohsen.... In my opinion you will end up with stronger palms if you give them winter sun.... Short term sunburn is nothing to worry about. With regards to water on the foliage, try to avoid while palms are younger and still establishing... During winter water sparingly, water mid morning (not late evening) and try to avoid water in the leaves where possible.

My opinion and experience only.....

Thanks Ben

Nice advises as always mate