Manaus a tropical city of contrasts

[amazondk]

I drive around the city of Manaus quite a bit and the contrasts and history of the city always draw my attention.

I would like to share a bit of this with you and hope you find it interesting.

Today Manaus is a modern city of around 2 million inabitants which has most of the characterstics of any larger Brazilian city.  But, due to the cities isolation it also has a few differences.  For one the urban violence so common in cities to the south is a lesser problem.  The city is a mix of older buildings dating from the 19th century, sprawling unorganized neighborhoods, and modern apartment buildings and up scale housing developments.  Due to the industrial district located here which manufactures many products from cell phones, motorcycles to digital TV the economy is strong and growing.  In spite of being directly tied to the electronic modern world the city remains one of the most isolated urban areas in the world.  That suits me just fine.

Wikipedia gives a brief history:

"Manaus began as a small fort, São José da Barra, created in 1669 by Portuguese settlers as a defense against Spanish incursions into Brazil by way of the Amazon River. On November 13, 1832, the settlement gained the status of Vila, and was named "Manaus", after the indigenous tribe, the "Manaós", which once inhabitated the area. In the local language, the word means "Mother of God". On October 24, 1848, Manaus was awarded the status of city with the name Cidade da Barra do Rio Negro. In 1850, Amazonas became a province. On September 4, 1856, the city was renamed Cidade de Manaus.

From 1890 to 1920, Manaus was a rubber boomtown, which was caused in part by the invention of the process of vulcanization. The plantantion owners became extravagantly wealthy and the city prospered. Immigrants from northeastern Brazil, fleeing drought and poverty, flooded the city seeking riches in the rubber trade. By 1920, synthetic rubber and the growth of plantations in Southeast Asia caused a drastic plunge in the price of rubber, and Manaus declined into poverty. Today Manaus is the financial center of the North Brazil."

During the rubber boom of the early 20th century Manaus was one of the most developed cities in Brazil.  The city had the first electric street lighting in Brazil and had closer ties with Europe than Rio de Janeiro.

Here are a few pictures of some landmarks of this period.

The opera house - Teatro Amazonas

[amazondk]

The plaza, (praça) in front of the Opera House has been totally refurbished and the building around it as well to reflect the orginal architecture of the period.  There is a city program called Manaus Belle Epoc which promotes the restoration of historic buildings.  Unfortunately a lot of old buildings were not maintained or demolished.

Looking out from the Opera House.

Buildings around the plaza.

Monument to the Americas

[amazondk]

The former legislature.

[amazondk]

The main street of downtown is Eduardo Ribeiro.  No new high rise buildings can be built downtown so new development is in other areas.  The buildings that are now there are from the 60's and 70's mostly.   Downtown has a strong business as many people still prefer to shop there and people from the interior tend to purchase most of their goods there when in town.   I will add pictures as I take them.

Sidewalk scene downtown.

A vendor of Tucumã palm fruits - Astrocaryum aculeatum

[Mike4284m]

I always look forward to your posts Don.  It's nice to get a glimpse of places so far away.  The vendors set up on the sidewalks remind me of San Jose, CR.

[amazondk]

The other end of the city from downtown is the Ponta Negra.  At the end of the Ponta Negra area is the Tropical Hotel, one of the best in Manaus.  The Tropical used to be in the country, but today the city has caught up.  A few years ago a the Tropical Business Hotel was added to the property.  The have some great landscaping and a wonderful view of the Negro River.  The river is 8 kms wide at this point.  And, it gets about 100 meters deep in the channel.

dk

Looking back at the city from the Tropical Business.

Looking out at the Negro from the original Tropical Hotel.

[amazondk]

An Acrocomia aculeata on the grounds of the Tropical Hotel.

A red banana on the grounds of the Tropical Hotel

[amazondk]

It was mostly rainy today.  When I was at the hotel around 4:30 PM the skies had cleared. But the temperature was still low.  It shows 27 C on the sign.

Looking at the entrance of the original Tropical Hotel toward the Tropical Business.

[amazondk]

(Mike4284m @ Mar. 08 2007,14:40)

QUOTE

I always look forward to your posts Don.  It's nice to get a glimpse of places so far away.  The vendors set up on the sidewalks remind me of San Jose, CR.

Mike,

I think that the street vendors are pretty common all over Latin America.  Here there have been a lot of legal battles to keep them off the streets.  They sell merchandise with no tax payments normally.  So, the local governments come down on them.  But, in the end they always come back.  And, in reality we are not all that far away.  From Miami to Manaus is about the same distance as to LA.  In fact I think it is a bit closer.  And, if you want to go to Brazil you can always to go Pompano Beach.

dk

dk

[bgl]

Don,

A fascinating place you live in! Thanks for the historical background and the photos (some of which definitely remind me of our time in south Florida! ).

I'm curious, when you say Manaus had better contacts with Europe than Rio did, does that mean that there was a lot of shipping directly between Manaus and Europe?

And your comment about the electrical street lighting made me think of I'olani Palace in Honolulu, the royal palace that King Kalakaua (the last Hawaiian King) had built in 1881. Five years after completion they replaced the gas chandeliers with electric lighting, only seven years after Edison invented it. And they also installed a telephone system. Not sure who they would call since presumably no one else in the islands had a telephone at that time!!

Bo-Göran

[amazondk]

Bo,

There was always a pretty direct ocean route from Amazonia to Europe taking raw materials over and bringing back consumer goods. During the rubber boom Manaus was one of if not the richest cities in Brazil.  The rubber barons brought a lot of European perfomers over for the Opera House and they frequently visited Europe.  Many of the old structures, such as the Customs House, The Central Market, and the Opera House had much of their components pre fabricated in Europe or England.  Even a lot of the roof tiles in the older buildings came from France.  The ships needed balast for the in-bound journey as well.  This was also common in the south of Brazil.  Many old buildings had doors and windows of Portuguese pine, even though wood was not by any means in short supply in Brazil.  Old Manaus had electric street cars as well. Today you still see some of the tracks showing through the pavement downtown.  Brazil has a much different history than the rest of Latin America due to it's Portuguese decent and Manaus has it's own unique place in it.  An inetersting thing about Brazil is that it was the seat of a European crown during the 1800's.

dk

[Mike4284m]

(amazondk @ Mar. 08 2007,17:56)

QUOTE

And, if you want to go to Brazil you can always to go Pompano Beach.

dk

Is there a large Brazilian population in Pompano?  I hadn't realized that.  Any particular reason so many Brazilians ended up there as opposed to Miami?

I don't want to start any sort of political discussion, but I noticed reports of demonstrations in Brazil regarding Bush's visit and the plans regarding ethanol production.  What's the general feeling towards the US, or Bush for that matter, in Manaus?  I mentioned San Jose before and there there was quite a bit of anti-Bush graffiti scrawled about, although I think most of this was in regard to CAFTA.

[amazondk]

Regarding Pompano Beach and Deerfield Beach Brazilian immigration.  This started at least 20 years ago with people mostly from the city of Governador Valadares in Minas Gerais State.  One person drew another and so on.  Now you can shop at Brazilian supermarkets and do most anything in Portuguese.  I don't know about today but a few years ago Brazilians were the second largest immigrant minority after the Cubans in South Florida.  They just stick pretty much to themselves and do not mix much with other Latinos.  I always go to the Brazilian supermarket just north of Sample on Federal Highway when I am in Fort Lauderdale.  They have good cuts of meat at good prices.

As to Bush in Brazil.  This is the big news today.  For the most part demonstrations are by a bunch of kids with nothing else to do.  Brazil's President Lula is a shrewd guy and I am sure he sees a lot more advantage working a good deal for Brazilian ethanol and technology than following after Huga Chavez.  Brazil is the natural leader of South America due to it's size and degree of development and I am sure the country will go it's own way.  Of course Bush has a lot of political reasons for being here, but it is an intelligent move.  Lula is going to Camp David to meet with Bush the end of March.  The comentary of political analysts on the news is that it is about time Brazil takes a position of maturity in international politics and good relations with the USA are important no matter who is president.  Brazilians as a whole look a lot to the USA, more so than Europe.  Not that this is always good, but it is the way it is.

dk

[Mike4284m]

(amazondk @ Mar. 09 2007,14:58)

QUOTE

I always go to the Brazilian supermarket just north of Sample on Federal Highway when I am in Fort Lauderdale.  They have good cuts of meat at good prices.

Do you remember what it's called?  I'd like to check it out sometime.  Maybe they'll carry açai!  I've looked for it at the local grocery store but came up empty handed.

[SubTropicRay]

As usual Don, an impressive set of photos.  Thanks for sharing these.

[amazondk]

Mike,

I can't remember the name but the place is not too far north of Sample on the left hand side going north.  As to açai I doubt that they would have it as this is  pretty much an amazonian drink.  The best place to look would be at the Whole Foods Market or something similar.  But, they will not have fresh açai.  I doubt that anyone will, you have to come down to Manaus.

Ray,

Thanks, I am glad you enjoy the information.  I will keep posting some more images of life around here.  

Come down and visit some day.

dk

[amazondk]

The state of Amazonas, the largest in Brazil has almost no roads.  So the rivers are the roads and people come and go to the interior cities and villages mostly by boat.  Most regional boats leave from the port in front of the central market downtown.  Some boats take up to 2 weeks to get to their destinations over near the Peruvian border in the southwest part of the state.  But, most trips are from 1 to 3 days.

A porter carrying cargo to one of the boats.

[amazondk]

There is a cruise ship in port this week.  These vessels make regular calls at Manaus on cruises coming up the Amazon River.

[amazondk]

A monument to America.

[amazondk]

An Expresso Coffee bar at the Millenium Mall

Lunch at the Millenium Mall food court to live Brazilian Jazz

[amazondk]

There are some nice restaurants at the Millenium as well.  Years ago it was hard to find a decent restaurant in Manaus.  But, now a lot of what you find in São Paulo you find here.

Cafe Cancun (Mexican and a night spot as well), Barbacoa one of the best steak houses from São Paulo.

Japanese

[bgl]

Don,

I'm curious about the cruiseship industry there (even though I'm not interested in going on a cruiseship myself...): are those international or Brazilian cruiseship companies? And where are they based? Belem? And how far up the Amazon River do they go?

Bo-Göran

[Al in Kona]

Thanks for sharing with us some of these interesting scenes of places and life in Manaus.  Keep more pics coming - familiarize us more with your part of the Americas, a very tropical part.  There's something about the Amazon that intrigues many of us I think and then there are the palms too!

[amazondk]

Bo,

The cruise ships that come into Manaus stops as part of a larger Itinerary.  I believe that most of them start in other South American ports like Rio, or maybe Buenos Aires.   Some of them  start in Florida or the Caribbean.  They come to Manaus and turn around.   They are all international cruise lines. What I have seen is that some of the cruises bring passengers down on charter flights from the States and take others back.  The use Manaus as a turn around point.   This particular vessel belongs to Fred Olsen Cruise Lines.  Which I believe has mostly a European clientel.  I have seen Princess Cruise Lines here I believe that start from Fort Lauderdale.

A few years ago the State fixed up the main riverport and made a nice terminal to support the cruise ships.  I believe there is at least one a month in port, but some months have more.   I have never been on cruise myself even though I lived in South Florida quite a while.  Maybe it would be nice, but I am more of a non programed activity guy and I don't know if I would like it or not.  Who knows maybe some day.

dk

[amazondk]

(Al in Kona @ Mar. 10 2007,15:51)

QUOTE

Thanks for sharing with us some of these interesting scenes of places and life in Manaus.  Keep more pics coming - familiarize us more with your part of the Americas, a very tropical part.  There's something about the Amazon that intrigues many of us I think and then there are the palms too!

Al,

Thanks for your commentaries on my postings.   I like to show what our area looks like and how life is here.  It is a place of many contrasts and of course it is a very tropical place.  Manaus is quite an interesting city and I have always enjoyed being here.  I first starting spending time here in 1989 when I lived in Sao Paulo.  Finally in 2000 I just decided that I would stay.  I have not been sorry about that.  I will add more to this thread, including some local palm shots.

You should come visit some day.

dk

[amazondk]

I went to buy some fish at the street market near our house this morning.  These kind of markets are much better places to buy fish and produce than the supermarkets.

My favorite fish vendor with two tambaqui.  I bought 3 matrixã from him for 20 reais, about 10 USD.

Cleaning the matrixã.

[amazondk]

I also bought a bit of fruit and vegetables.

[amazondk]

Cleaning a Pirarucu, the largest scale fish of the region.

Matrixã na brasa being roasted for lunch.

[amazondk]

For the non fish meal there are other alternatives.

The butcher shop, beef, pork, and lamb.

And, there is take out chicken.  You can take it home to kill and clean it, or have it done on the spot.  You know the chicken is fresh.

[bgl]

Don,

More great pictures! I feel like I just took a quick sidetrip to Amazonas! And I didn't even have my breakfast yet!

Bo-Göran

[JakeK]

Don,

I would have never expected to see such a grandiose opera house and legislative house in Manaus. They have a nice Habsburg-esque quality to them.

[amazondk]

Bo,

I am glad you enjoyed the tour.  I am going to be up north for most of the week.  But, when I return I have spotted some places to take pictures of palms planted around town that I will upload.

Jake,

You should see the inside of the Opera House, it is really something.  As I mentioned above at the time Manaus was the richest city in Brazill and the rubber barons spared nothing in building.  The old market is being overhauled now.  It is another great structure.  All of the iron was brought over from England.  There are a lot of nice buildings around town that are being restored.  And, even more are hidden by false fronts with advertising and signs.  There is a lot of new building going on right now as the economy is quite strong due to the manufacturing sector.  What is really sort of weak and could be much stronger is tourism.  

dk

[amazondk]

Here are few more scenes of daily life in Manaus the city in the jungle.  I hope you enjoy.

The traffic increase in recent years has made things more and more congested.  In an effort to improve traffic flow a program of overpasses and underpasses has begun on major intersections.  Hopefully things will improve when finished.  in the meantime driving around town has gotten a lot worse.

A billboard promoting skin cream to the local female population.  I don't ever remember seeing a billboard like this in the States.

I have to renew the tags on my car so I went to see Nazareth Nunes.  She is what is known as a despachante.  By paying her around 20 USD I avoid having to stand in lines and the like.  She is now working in a temporay location as they knocked down here little wood office near the DMV for the new overpass project.  Here office is behind a bus stop.  Kind of a funky location.

[amazondk]

Then there is my favorite Shell station.  There is no self service gasoline in Manaus.  In fact I do not think there is in Brazil.  Manaus has a few stations where it is a pleasure to fill up.  

I think she is one of the best attendants in the city.

When I told her I wanted to put her picture on the Palmtalk Forum she got a little shy.  But, still had a smile.  It is tough to have to put up with such service.

[amazondk]

One of he major supermarket chains in Manaus is DB.  I don't really like to shop there, but their logo is very regional.

I had to go see about some problems with our company cell phone account on Djalma Batista Street one of the main avenues in Manaus.  

I have always liked this Triangle Palm in front of an interior decoration store near the Amazonas Mall.

This Cidade Nova Road near my house.  There are a lot of motorcycles in Manaus today.  Some of them have better looking riders than others.

[amazondk]

I had to stop by the supermarket to pick some things up.  I like the new Carrefour store near our house.  Carrefour for those not in Europe is a French supermarket chain which is very strong here in Brazil.  This store is sort of a wholesale store.

I like to shop there as well because the help is very nice.  Both the way they treat you and the way they look.  The store has women on roller skates to move around and get prices quickly.  The girls with the helmets.

I nearly got in trouble for taking pictures secretly with my cell phone.  A security guard caught me taking this one and got a bit upset.  But, he did not really have proof that I took a picture.  I love my new cell phone.  There was a dispute about chocolate easter eggs going on.

[bgl]

Don,

Again, almost as good as being there in person! Great photos, and great quality I think for a cell phone.

Bo-Göran

[palmsrgreat]

Great pics Don!

I could get along real well with that porter, maybe even lighten the load for him

[mike453]

Don,

You didn't take the price tags off those easter eggs just so you could take that picture...did you?

Thanks for the tour.

                 Mike

[DoomsDave]

DON!

Thank you!

EXACTLY what I was looking for.

Show us some ritzy areas?  And some poor ones?

My digicam's about to get a lot of exercise here in So-Cal . . .

dave