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Posted

What brand and style of loppers and pruning shears do you like and get good service from.

Posted

Felco for me.

Len

Vista, CA (Zone 10a)

Shadowridge Area

"Show me your garden and I shall tell you what you are."

-- Alfred Austin

Posted

Corona here.

test

Posted

Felco for me.

Hands down. #8's

 

 

Posted

Milwaukee 18v hackzall

Nothing gets in my way.

It all gets out da way.

Brandon, FL

27.95°N 82.28°W (Elev. 62 ft)

Zone9 w/ canopy

Posted

Felco and Corona's are great, sawsall for diamond cuts on palms, pole saw for things I can't reach and chainsaw for cabbage palms (to clean them up not cut them down lol)

Posted

I too use a sawsall!

test

Posted

how many of you sanitize your tools between cuts to minimize transferring diseases and fungus between trees? if so, what do you use?

Grant
Long Beach, CA

Posted

Corona here.

If you lived in Felco, would use them?

  • Upvote 2

Len

Vista, CA (Zone 10a)

Shadowridge Area

"Show me your garden and I shall tell you what you are."

-- Alfred Austin

Posted

how many of you sanitize your tools between cuts to minimize transferring diseases and fungus between trees? if so, what do you use?

I used to use a bleach solution, but rust was always an issue. I now use a propane torch. Just one pass over the blades.

"If you need me, I'll be outside" -Randy Wiesner Palm Beach County, Florida Zone 10Bish

Posted

I don't sterilize as often as I should. In the past I have used alcohol or one of those long grill lighters. I have seen people with a can of Lysol to clean with. Bleach caused too much rust on tools, but is good for nursery sterilizing benches and pots. Someone should invent chainsaw bar oil that sterilizes.

  • Upvote 1

So many species,

so little time.

Coconut Creek, Florida

Zone 10b (Zone 11 except for once evey 10 or 20 years)

Last Freeze: 2011,50 Miles North of Fairchilds

Posted (edited)

I've never sanitized anything and I've never had any problems, I think about it though every time I use loppers etc but then just lop away! I'm bad

Edited by Palmdude
Posted

From working in a crime laboratory where we are faced with pathogens such as HIV and hepatitis. Plant pathogens are probably significantly more resistant to disinfectants.

1. Alchohol probably does little to destroy the pathogen. THe old westerns where they treated wounds with alchohol probably did little to help.

2. Heating is a very effective way of destroying pathogens as with a torch or lighter. But the metal must be heated significantly.

3. Bleach is very effective. However, longterm contact of metal with bleach will remove the galvinized shiny layer of metal present on many tools. Such as metal scissors.

So for convenience and ease I would use heat but all plant contact points must be treated.

Patrick

Bonita, California (San Diego)

Zone 10B

10 Year Low of 29 degrees

6 Miles from San Diego Bay

Mild winters, somewhat warm summers

10 Miles North of Mexico/USA Border

1 acre

Posted

lol @ Len's comment

Matt Bradford

"Manambe Lavaka"

Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)

10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)

9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)

Posted

I use what ever is handy. Generally, for small stuff, "bypass" clippers. For big stuff, a nice pair of Corona Loppers, or at least an imitation of same. For smaller stuff high up, a pair of these Llllooonnnnngggg extended clippers I found one day.

To remove rooty palms rootbound in pots that just won't let go, one of those cheap serrated "ginsu" knives. Zzziippppp, cuts that pot right off!

For some real ad-hoc "jazz" pruning, butcher knives, steak knives, and, once, my own teeth. (Once!)

When the time comes for murder/mayhem/revenge, machetes and electric chain saws. These are crude weapons and chain saws can't be sterilized at least not easily.

For stubborn roots, one of those Home Depot mattocks with a hatchet blade on the other end and a nice bright yellow handle to find it easily. Sometimes, a sharpened shovel shoved into a rootball to make it (hopefully) easier to move something. Or, a sharpened drain spade, in appropriate sizes.

And, big boards, painted with Rustoleum, to humph things out of holes and into trucks, garbage cans, etc.

And, hopefully, a burly helper or helpers.

Let's keep our forum fun and friendly.

Any data in this post is provided 'as is' and in no event shall I be liable for any damages, including, without limitation, damages resulting from accuracy or lack thereof, insult, or lost profits or revenue, claims by third parties or for other similar costs, or any special, incidental, or consequential damages arising out of my opinion or the use of this data. The accuracy or reliability of the data is not guaranteed or warranted in any way and I disclaim liability of any kind whatsoever, including, without limitation, liability for quality, performance, merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose arising out of the use, or inability to use my data. Other terms may apply.

Posted

how many of you sanitize your tools between cuts to minimize transferring diseases and fungus between trees? if so, what do you use?

Almost never.

When I do, I use some straight bleach, dip it in, leave it a few seconds, pull it out.

Most of the time, I don't cut into green tissue, which means that sterilization isn't necessary. A dead leaf that clings stubbornly, is still dead and can be cut off safely.

Let's keep our forum fun and friendly.

Any data in this post is provided 'as is' and in no event shall I be liable for any damages, including, without limitation, damages resulting from accuracy or lack thereof, insult, or lost profits or revenue, claims by third parties or for other similar costs, or any special, incidental, or consequential damages arising out of my opinion or the use of this data. The accuracy or reliability of the data is not guaranteed or warranted in any way and I disclaim liability of any kind whatsoever, including, without limitation, liability for quality, performance, merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose arising out of the use, or inability to use my data. Other terms may apply.

Posted

From working in a crime laboratory where we are faced with pathogens such as HIV and hepatitis. Plant pathogens are probably significantly more resistant to disinfectants.

1. Alchohol probably does little to destroy the pathogen. THe old westerns where they treated wounds with alchohol probably did little to help.

2. Heating is a very effective way of destroying pathogens as with a torch or lighter. But the metal must be heated significantly.

3. Bleach is very effective. However, longterm contact of metal with bleach will remove the galvinized shiny layer of metal present on many tools. Such as metal scissors.

So for convenience and ease I would use heat but all plant contact points must be treated.

Patrick

Ah, good!

Affirmation by an expert!

I don't care how shiny my instruments of murder/mayhem/revenge may look . . . .

Let's keep our forum fun and friendly.

Any data in this post is provided 'as is' and in no event shall I be liable for any damages, including, without limitation, damages resulting from accuracy or lack thereof, insult, or lost profits or revenue, claims by third parties or for other similar costs, or any special, incidental, or consequential damages arising out of my opinion or the use of this data. The accuracy or reliability of the data is not guaranteed or warranted in any way and I disclaim liability of any kind whatsoever, including, without limitation, liability for quality, performance, merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose arising out of the use, or inability to use my data. Other terms may apply.

Posted

What brand and style of loppers and pruning shears do you like and get good service from.

Welcome Wizbang!

We got so caught up in our jokes and deprecations we forgot to give you a proper greeting!

Maybe show us your garden, and what needs trimming?

Welcome again, and if you're anywhere near Orange County California, come to the PSSC meeting on March 22, 2014.

http://palmssc.org/new-page-2/

Let's keep our forum fun and friendly.

Any data in this post is provided 'as is' and in no event shall I be liable for any damages, including, without limitation, damages resulting from accuracy or lack thereof, insult, or lost profits or revenue, claims by third parties or for other similar costs, or any special, incidental, or consequential damages arising out of my opinion or the use of this data. The accuracy or reliability of the data is not guaranteed or warranted in any way and I disclaim liability of any kind whatsoever, including, without limitation, liability for quality, performance, merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose arising out of the use, or inability to use my data. Other terms may apply.

Posted

how many of you sanitize your tools between cuts to minimize transferring diseases and fungus between trees? if so, what do you use?

I used to use a bleach solution, but rust was always an issue. I now use a propane torch. Just one pass over the blades.

Now you can trim palms AND make crème brûlée at the same time. Good idea.

  • Upvote 1

 

 

Posted

Where is Felco? :interesting:

test

Posted

Felco and Corona's are great, sawsall for diamond cuts on palms, pole saw for things I can't reach and chainsaw for cabbage palms (to clean them up not cut them down lol)

Something similiar, chainsaw for the big stuff and to save time, metal saw for finer job like removing thoroughly suckers, which are still to big for the classic garden pruner, and pole-chainsaw for the tall specimens. How can you make sure that an once pruned sucker will not grow again or in other words how can you kill the growing point of a sucker without damaging main trunk (very important for areas plagued by rpw and paysandisia)? Until now all my efforts to 'neutralize' suckers have failed miserably, clumping palms here are like lernaean hydra!

Posted

sawzall and small husquvarna are my main tools. The pruners I use are the nicer ones from Lowes that are easily resharpened.

Posted

Silky Hayauchi Pole Saw is great for trimming fronds.

Jupiter FL

in the Zone formally known as 10A

Posted

I used my Sawzall with an arbor blade for most things. My palms are finally getting tall enough that I need to go ahead and get a pole saw this year. I may use that pole saw from some of the lower Phoenix as well so I don't have to get in their amongst thos big spines as I have had to do in the past.

In my post I sometimes express "my" opinion. Warning, it may differ from "your" opinion. If so, please do not feel insulted, just state your own if you wish. Any data in this post is provided 'as is' and in no event shall I be liable for any damages, including, without limitation, damages resulting from accuracy or lack thereof, insult, or any other damages

  • 1 year later...
Posted

We have a large chamaerops humillas that has five main trunks that extend overhead. We have been loping off the fronds but not very tight to the trunk. I have seen others that the trunks show no stubs at all and the trunks look dark. How is this achieved and what tool is needed?

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