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Cold hardy dypsis


Mauna Kea Cloudforest

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The triangle shown above did not make it through the Polar Vortex and Great Ice Storm two winters ago.

David Simms zone 9a on Highway 30a

200 steps from the Gulf in NW Florida

30 ft. elevation and sandy soil

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I don't believe D. lutescens could take much below high-20s, anywhere.

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Ben Rogers

On the border of Concord & Clayton in the East Bay hills - Elev 387 ft 37.95 °N, 121.94 °W

My back yard weather station: http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/hdfForecast?query=37.954%2C-121.945&sp=KCACONCO37

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  • 2 weeks later...

Lutescens is a tricky one because it's actually pretty sensitive but grows back from the roots. I've seen them eek out a living in inland Tampa, but they never develop the multiple 20 foot tall canes like you'll see in the coconut zones. I'd rate them about the same hardiness as coconuts if you want them to look good. 

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Keith 

Palmetto, Florida (10a) and Tampa, Florida (9b/10a)

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For example, giant dypsis lutenscs in Tampa, FL: 

 

Try attaching the picture again. I've had some trouble since switching to the new format but it seems to help to refresh the page.

Keith 

Palmetto, Florida (10a) and Tampa, Florida (9b/10a)

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Sorry, one more try ---

Here is a Dypsis Lutencens in Tampa, Florida, which must be 20 feet tall.  It has been there for years:

https://www.google.com/maps/@27.9331533,-82.4768766,3a,37.5y,56.99h,95.62t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1spuUun_CHXLwG431oMh778w!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

In Orlando, I have seen these trees being used as a privacy hedge -- a practice much more common throughout South Florida, of course.  

 

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Sorry, one more try ---

Here is a Dypsis Lutencens in Tampa, Florida, which must be 20 feet tall.  It has been there for years:

https://www.google.com/maps/@27.9331533,-82.4768766,3a,37.5y,56.99h,95.62t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1spuUun_CHXLwG431oMh778w!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

In Orlando, I have seen these trees being used as a privacy hedge -- a practice much more common throughout South Florida, of course.  

 

That's a nice one. It's in one of the warmer spots of Tampa for sure. 

Keith 

Palmetto, Florida (10a) and Tampa, Florida (9b/10a)

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Interesting that Dypsis plumose has not been mentioned in this thread?

Coral Gables, FL 8 miles North of Fairchild USDA Zone 10B

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Tried lutescens once here a few years back with light cover - wiped out.

Don't think I'll try again.

This is a great time of year here for the surviving palms. Last growth before the freezes hit.

An ambositae just opened a new leaf.

A couple of months and out come the pruners.

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On 11/4/2015, 7:14:39, Moose said:

 

Interesting that Dypsis plumose has not been mentioned in this thread?

We may be mentioning it next year Moose.  In my Zone 9a garden, I do have one spot that might be 9b, for a few years anyway.  The palm will eventually grow to its death, but it will have to exceed 18 feet to get there.   We'll see.  I have until spring 16 to decide.

In my post I sometimes express "my" opinion. Warning, it may differ from "your" opinion. If so, please do not feel insulted, just state your own if you wish. Any data in this post is provided 'as is' and in no event shall I be liable for any damages, including, without limitation, damages resulting from accuracy or lack thereof, insult, or any other damages

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  • 1 month later...

Lutescens, do well in here in inland SoCal. I've seen a full grown, flowering specimen in nearby Montclair at a house that did not seem to be owned by a palm "collector." At my house and my parent's house in Upland we both have small Lutescens in their second winter in the ground. The below picture is the one at my house in zip code 91784, usually a zone 9b. Last year these plants had more of a challenge adapting to full sun and both mine and my parent's did so successfully.

As far as D. plumosas I have around 5 in large pots unprotected around the yard and they have done very well. I have only lost 1 out of 9 in the past 3 years. think they are a winner for both sun and cold.

 

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Dypsis lancelota has been very solid for me as well. I have 3 at my house which were planted up into 15 gallon containers 3 years ago which have now rooted out. They seem to show no affects from the cold. My house has seen temps down to at least 25 F the last few winters.They just sit in  a planter that has old, large pygmy date palm canopy. In fact they are starting to grow into more sun light and seem to be adjusting well. This spring I plan to put my largest one in the ground. 

At my parent's house there is one lancelota  spending its 3rd winter, second in the ground, at the side of the house. It was planted as an overgrown 15 gallon spring of 2014. Its tallest cane is around 12' high and has grown out of any protection. The thing grows like a weed. Another one right next to t in a 10 gallon pot is growing very fast and strong too, although it's adjusting to growing into more sun.

If surviving sub 30 temps qualifies as cold hardy then I would have to include lancelota, though my data set of 3 winters is relatively short.

Different angles of the D. lance at my parent's house, Upland Ca. Pictures taken Oct. 31 2014, plant is even bigger and greener now.

smaller.jpg

smaller2.jpg

smaller1.jpg

Edited by Sr. Califas
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  • 7 years later...
On 12/17/2013 at 8:50 PM, Phoenikakias said:

Axel, provided you remember any information given by me about the climate in my garden, could you take a guess to which sunset zone does it fit in ? Unfortunately various plants used for finding the proper zone are missing or are very rare in Greece.

Ever tried Dypsis baronii Konstantine?

previously known as ego

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19 hours ago, ego said:

Ever tried Dypsis baronii Konstantine?

I grow one seedling in my cold frame. Pot medium is very light (pine bark, cinder and leca). So far it does unexpectedly well. It's gone  through all cold spells of recent years (20 to 23), so we have to take in to account that ad a potted seedling has already experienced temp clisr to 0 C or even very slightly below.  I doubt strongly  however, whether it would have survived same cold spells outdoors. Another evidence that cold hardiness is a highly relative matter.

L Chryso baron and R Chryso ambo

20230510_171534.thumb.jpg.8a67de7e2b53168463da21624e8d3659.jpg20230510_171543.thumb.jpg.28715614346e60c96a286a307bf62cbc.jpg20230510_171603.thumb.jpg.001b9e108f9e8ded3969691d32240c3c.jpg

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Did you grow them from seeds? The black variety is stunning btw and RPS has some in stock. I'm tempted but my success rate with palm seeds is horrendous...

previously known as ego

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16 hours ago, ego said:

Did you grow them from seeds? The black variety is stunning btw and RPS has some in stock. I'm tempted but my success rate with palm seeds is horrendous...

Both plants originate from rps seeds, but I did not bring latter to germination, only had been given germinated seeds.  Imo seed germination is the easiest part, keeping seedlings alive both in winter and summer is the real challenge. Once I had more than a dozen C. onilahensis seeds germinate during summer in my cold frame. Pretty easy.

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58 minutes ago, Phoenikakias said:

Both plants originate from rps seeds, but I did not bring latter to germination, only had been given germinated seeds.  Imo seed germination is the easiest part, keeping seedlings alive both in winter and summer is the real challenge. Once I had more than a dozen C. onilahensis seeds germinate during summer in my cold frame. Pretty easy.

What medium did you use and how long did you wait for germination?

previously known as ego

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1 hour ago, ego said:

What medium did you use and how long did you wait for germination?

40% perlite, 40% zeolite 20% coir

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2 hours ago, Phoenikakias said:

40% perlite, 40% zeolite 20% coir

I am thinking of buying 10 seeds. Should I leave them outdoors at this time of the year? 

previously known as ego

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4 hours ago, ego said:

I am thinking of buying 10 seeds. Should I leave them outdoors at this time of the year? 

I dare say yes, but in shade. Unless current summer continues being extraordinarily cool, there should not be any problem. Besides you will have to spray soil surface with water every day. Here are a bunch of C onilahensis seedlings. They need alas urgently individual pottiing in aforementioned substrate.

20230618_204743.thumb.jpg.d4aa7fedb928b08a9b468182aec7315a.jpg

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1 hour ago, Phoenikakias said:

I dare say yes, but in shade. Unless current summer continues being extraordinarily cool, there should not be any problem. Besides you will have to spray soil surface with water every day. Here are a bunch of C onilahensis seedlings. They need alas urgently individual pottiing in aforementioned substrate.

20230618_204743.thumb.jpg.d4aa7fedb928b08a9b468182aec7315a.jpg

OK let's see. I've promised myself to never try palm seeds again but this one is just too beautiful. My yard has a cool microclimate and temperatures are about 5C lower than in the town of Nea Makri. When it was 45C all over Greece two summers ago, it was 33 C in my yard! So too much heat won't be a problem. 

How long do seeds take to germinate roughly?

previously known as ego

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