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Posted

Coffee grounds haven't worked like they do on cycads.

Hydrogen peroxide and sulfur dust have been great in warding off a whole host of problems and borax solutions have been great in controlling argentine ants- but none of these are effective against scale so far. I like these low toxin/carcinogen methods, especially on tender seedlings.

It'd be great to hear what others have had success with- even over the counter sprays and chemicals.

Glenn

Modesto, California

 

Sunset Zone 14   USDA 9b

 

Low Temp. 19F/-7C 12-20-1990         

 

High Temp. 111F/43C 07-23-2006

 

Annual Average Precipitation 13.12 inches/yr.

 

             

Posted

Your fingernails, Ed

MOSQUITO LAGOON

Oak_Hill.gif

Posted

I use Neem oil.

Jeff

Modesto, CA USDA 9b

July/August average 95f/63f

Dec/Jan average 55f/39f

Average lowest winter temp 27f

Record low temp 18f

Record high temp 113f

Posted

Don't wish to hijack Glenn's thread, but I have a brown scale on my fern, Platycerium grande. Please advise!

San Francisco, California

Posted (edited)

I have used neem oil in the past and it works well, but it needs a somewhat frequent application for control(every 2-3 weeks). I now use "organicide" it is totally safe for garden veggies harvested the same day, and needs application only every 6 weeks.

Here is what it controls:

Target Pests:

Controls a wide range of mite and insect pests such as (but not limited to):

•Citrus rust mites

• Spider mites

•Armored and soft scales

•Mealy bugs

•White-flies

•Aphids

•Leaf-rollers

• Leaf miner

• Fungus gnats

•Thrips

•Sago Palm Scale

•Glassy Winged Sharpshooters

Organocide™ controls certain fungal diseases such as (but not limited to):

• Powdery mildew

• Black spot on roses

• Helminthesporiumand

•Greasy spot on citrus.

Edited by sonoranfans

Formerly in Gilbert AZ, zone 9a/9b. Now in Palmetto, Florida Zone 9b/10a??

 

Tom Blank

Posted

That sounds cool, that organicide. I've had some success with soapy water with volk oil mixed in. Don't spray oil when it's hot

Matt Bradford

"Manambe Lavaka"

Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)

10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)

9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)

Posted

I now mostly use diatomaceous earth. Still get some scale but just pick them off, very few really. Neem is also good but you need to be more organised.

Posted

Use "Less Nitrogen", prevention is better than cure :) Scale, like many other "suckers" are "attracted" to plants fed with too much N. Pete :)

Posted

Use "Less Nitrogen", prevention is better than cure :) Scale, like many other "suckers" are "attracted" to plants fed with too much N. Pete :)

Would you include White Fly in that too Pete?
Posted

Use "Less Nitrogen", prevention is better than cure :) Scale, like many other "suckers" are "attracted" to plants fed with too much N. Pete :)

Would you include White Fly in that too Pete?

Adam, Yes absolutely , especially if they are in mass numbers. Pete :)

Posted

Use "Less Nitrogen", prevention is better than cure :) Scale, like many other "suckers" are "attracted" to plants fed with too much N. Pete :)

Would you include White Fly in that too Pete?
Adam, Yes absolutely , especially if they are in mass numbers. Pete :)
That's a heck of a thing...starve the plant to starve the pests. :) Might be the only chance to save it though. Thanks Pete!
Posted

Use "Less Nitrogen", prevention is better than cure :) Scale, like many other "suckers" are "attracted" to plants fed with too much N. Pete :)

This is a catch 22. It is why it is so important to not over feed but it is also important to ensure plants are properly feed as it too reduces insect and fungal attact. The reason too much Nitrogen is bad is because it causes elongated, thin cell wall development which makes it easier for insects to feed or fungus to attack.

Len

Vista, CA (Zone 10a)

Shadowridge Area

"Show me your garden and I shall tell you what you are."

-- Alfred Austin

Posted

:bemused:

post-126-0-94871700-1376936839.jpg

Matt Bradford

"Manambe Lavaka"

Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)

10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)

9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)

Posted

Use "Less Nitrogen", prevention is better than cure :) Scale, like many other "suckers" are "attracted" to plants fed with too much N. Pete :)

This is a catch 22. It is why it is so important to not over feed but it is also important to ensure plants are properly feed as it too reduces insect and fungal attact. The reason too much Nitrogen is bad is because it causes elongated, thin cell wall development which makes it easier for insects to feed or fungus to attack.

Another reason to use a high quality controlled release fertilizer, feed enough don't starve. Its also a reason why fertilizers are often tailored to the soil. Feeding too little can cause potassium deficiency in sandy soil. Its the potassium that is rinsed from the soil first. 8-2-12 is a florida formulation while I see a lot of others where N~K. I guess also overfeeding is less of a risk in very high drainage when using a controlled release fert. My scale problems to date have been confined to plumeria, and the organicide knocked them out quickly, 2 applications and it was gone. those plumeria are my scale "canaries", like "canaries in a coal mine". My biggest palm eaters are grasshoppers the size of a ring finger.... :bemused:

Formerly in Gilbert AZ, zone 9a/9b. Now in Palmetto, Florida Zone 9b/10a??

 

Tom Blank

Posted

Tom, so funny you used that phrase about Plumeria. A few days ago I told Gary I had to take his rare cutting out of my GH cause I saw mites. I told him the same thing that Plumeria is the canary in the coal mine. It is so true. Plumeria and Ti's are the first to get hit.

Len

Vista, CA (Zone 10a)

Shadowridge Area

"Show me your garden and I shall tell you what you are."

-- Alfred Austin

Posted

Tom, so funny you used that phrase about Plumeria. A few days ago I told Gary I had to take his rare cutting out of my GH cause I saw mites. I told him the same thing that Plumeria is the canary in the coal mine. It is so true. Plumeria and Ti's are the first to get hit.

Good to hear I'm not the only one to see that. Mine were just infested with scale, leaves shriveling up. None on my palms at that time, but I'm sure it was only a matter of time. My plumeria are outside and now 6-10' tall. they are the choice food of almost all pests in the yard, including those big grasshoppers. This way I don't always have to look over everything to see a problem. I only use organicide because I also have lots of chameleons, and those little buggers like to eat all kinds of the smaller bugs, including mosquitos, the natural way...

Formerly in Gilbert AZ, zone 9a/9b. Now in Palmetto, Florida Zone 9b/10a??

 

Tom Blank

Posted

Death of the host usually takes care of it.

In my post I sometimes express "my" opinion. Warning, it may differ from "your" opinion. If so, please do not feel insulted, just state your own if you wish. Any data in this post is provided 'as is' and in no event shall I be liable for any damages, including, without limitation, damages resulting from accuracy or lack thereof, insult, or any other damages

Posted

I have used neem oil in the past and it works well, but it needs a somewhat frequent application for control(every 2-3 weeks). I now use "organicide" it is totally safe for garden veggies harvested the same day, and needs application only every 6 weeks.

Here is what it controls:

Target Pests:

Controls a wide range of mite and insect pests such as (but not limited to):

Citrus rust mites

Spider mites

Armored and soft scales

Mealy bugs

White-flies

Aphids

Leaf-rollers

Leaf miner

Fungus gnats

Thrips

Sago Palm Scale

Glassy Winged Sharpshooters

Organocide controls certain fungal diseases such as (but not limited to):

Powdery mildew

Black spot on roses

Helminthesporiumand

Greasy spot on citrus.

Tom, is it spelled Organicide or Organocide? I see it spelled both ways in post #5.

Perry Glenn

SLO Palms

(805) 550-2708

http://www.slopalms.com

Posted

Organicide, fish oil is what it is smells rather fishy so take this into account when applying.

Jupiter FL

in the Zone formally known as 10A

Posted

I have used neem oil in the past and it works well, but it needs a somewhat frequent application for control(every 2-3 weeks). I now use "organicide" it is totally safe for garden veggies harvested the same day, and needs application only every 6 weeks.

Here is what it controls:

Target Pests:

Controls a wide range of mite and insect pests such as (but not limited to):

Citrus rust mites

Spider mites

Armored and soft scales

Mealy bugs

White-flies

Aphids

Leaf-rollers

Leaf miner

Fungus gnats

Thrips

Sago Palm Scale

Glassy Winged Sharpshooters

Organocide controls certain fungal diseases such as (but not limited to):

Powdery mildew

Black spot on roses

Helminthesporiumand

Greasy spot on citrus.

Tom, is it spelled Organicide or Organocide? I see it spelled both ways in post #5.
Sorry its organocide, and yes its 92% fish oil, 5% sesame oil and 3% emulsifiers. Yes it does smell like fish for a day or two, but not nearly so intense as my fish emulsion fertilizer. Its a contact killer that suffocates it intended target, and its very effective in my experience.

Formerly in Gilbert AZ, zone 9a/9b. Now in Palmetto, Florida Zone 9b/10a??

 

Tom Blank

Posted

I have used neem oil in the past and it works well, but it needs a somewhat frequent application for control(every 2-3 weeks). I now use "organicide" it is totally safe for garden veggies harvested the same day, and needs application only every 6 weeks.

Here is what it controls:

Target Pests:

Controls a wide range of mite and insect pests such as (but not limited to):

Citrus rust mites

Spider mites

Armored and soft scales

Mealy bugs

White-flies

Aphids

Leaf-rollers

Leaf miner

Fungus gnats

Thrips

Sago Palm Scale

Glassy Winged Sharpshooters

Organocide controls certain fungal diseases such as (but not limited to):

Powdery mildew

Black spot on roses

Helminthesporiumand

Greasy spot on citrus.

Tom, is it spelled Organicide or Organocide? I see it spelled both ways in post #5.

Sorry its organocide, and yes its 92% fish oil, 5% sesame oil and 3% emulsifiers. Yes it does smell like fish for a day or two, but not nearly so intense as my fish emulsion fertilizer. Its a contact killer that suffocates it intended target, and its very effective in my experience.
Thanks Tom! I'll be looking for it.

Perry Glenn

SLO Palms

(805) 550-2708

http://www.slopalms.com

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