Alberto is right that the spots on mine look different than the dots discussed earlier this thread, but maybe there are different kinds of fungus that cause different defects? I will go with Alberto that mine is caused by fungus and buy a anti fungus spray. But for me it is not clear why the Jubutiagrus only suffers from it.

I see it in Butia archeri. Also, its not simply fungal. I have a few Jubutygruses in pots that don't see the cold. They show no problems. Cold wet fungal funk, or CWFF for short, is my guess.

Double post

Folks: I'm gonna start treating with a broadcast version of Thiophanate methyl around the palms that are suffering. I may also leave one untreated to compare. This time next year, we can review the results. If this is fungal, Thiophanate methyl is a good candidate to address it.

hi.

...now, with high temps and less rain, my full sun jubutyagrus that have less black spots..., shows now better face..., they don´t like wetter season in the winter...

i hope that this spring-summer it recovery...

two months ago...

now.

this one in partial shade have serius problems to keep green colour on older leafs...

...sometimes fossetil is added to solution against paysandisisa(see damage in the first jubutiagrus) and RPW...

I see it in Butia archeri. Also, its not simply fungal. I have a few Jubutygruses in pots that don't see the cold. They show no problems. Cold wet fungal funk, or CWFF for short, is my guess.

hello

...those black spots can be the same??...is one butia yatai x queen seedling.

My Butia yatay x Queen shows no symptoms.

Nigel has to be right on this deal. The problems develop with cold. I'm planning on installing heating cables before this next winter. We'll see what happens.

Maybe this thing is just a turd. A good chunk of the leaves just yellow from the tip in. Then become necrotic from the tip in. There are symptoms of fungus too. But just bad yellowing and necrosis. This thing is well fertilized with time released products. I've provided chelated micros. I'm about to pull this thing.

Wait!

Some things only time can cure. Some problems the plant "grow out" of it....

Maybe this thing is just a turd. A good chunk of the leaves just yellow from the tip in. Then become necrotic from the tip in. There are symptoms of fungus too. But just bad yellowing and necrosis. This thing is well fertilized with time released products. I've provided chelated micros. I'm about to pull this thing.

Camaeron, is this the Shaffer or hopper hybrid? I know you have both. How is your soil pH? If its too alkaline it could be that all the fertilizer wont help. If you have calcerous soils, Gypsym(CaSO4) wont help either. For alkaline calcerous soils, sulfur pellets are the best treatment. Yellowing sounds like a micronutrient deficiency, mine never showed this. My Hopper jubutiagrus((JxB)xB)xS is coming out of the spotting, looking better all the time. It is in high drainage sandy soil and full sun. I reduced overhead irrigation to 2 days a week max, used too be 4. I also have treated with organicide 2x. Our dry spring might have helped, but we have had plenty of rain over the last month. We will see what happens in the fall.

Edited July 24, 201312 yr by sonoranfans

Thought I would share the bad, good and ugly of my Jubutygrus from Patrick. Early this spring I cut off all the older damage leaves so the worst is cut off.

Here one in the ground (no canopy) but half day of full sun. This leaf was the first one to grow out after the cold winter. Only the upper part was open during the winter, the lower part of the leaf was close and had very little damage. So below my hand its fine.

Here is the whole palm, this poor thing was transplanted last fall to this more sunny spot, but has not missed a beat. Doesn’t start growing here till early July.

This second one I just dug up today, since it was getting shaded out from a shrub, this one was transplanted last fall too, and now I have it in a container.

Winter damage leaf which look even worst a few months ago.

The whole palm.

Does any of the damage on mine look anything like what you guys are experiencing? BTW… I have a true rainy/cold winter, you guys not so much. LOL!

There are some similarities, but mine has only the small spots, not the bigger ones... I think this is a fungus, you should treat it. the spots wont go away, but the treatment will limit the spread. And yes what I read is that you should cut off the badly spotted leaves as it can spread to the newer leaves.

Buffy-

Guys: I’ve looked at all my Jubutygruses. They all have the same symptoms. Not as bad as the bed planted one, but definitely there. I think it has to be cold damage since all three are planted in different soils in different parts of the yard. I have a JubXQueen close to one of them that shows nothing. Also have the Yatay Mule nearby that shows nothing. It's the nature of some Jubutygruses. Bad brown spotting from cold. I only hit 27F with lots of nights of heavy frost and two nights with frozen snow on the fronds. And remember, one of mine is from Patric and two are from Tim. Also of note, I have two of Tim's still in pots that are exposed to all the same conditions except cold and they look perfect. One more note, in the winter of 2010-2011, we stayed below freezing for 4 days straight with an ultimate low around 15 or 16. At that time, one of my Hopper Jubutygruses was still small enough to wrap in a blanket. It came through without a blemish. So the problem is frost and frozen precipitation, not cold. These palms are susceptible to frozen water. Let's see if they will grow out of this sensitivity.

This has been my experience also, b/c when mine where planted with overhead canopy it never had any spotting on the leaves.

I will give it some fungus spray this fall, all new growth so far is normal. Problem solved for me, and I am also going to cover this smaller one this winter keep some of the rain off it. Maybe that will help.

- Roger.

Edited July 25, 201312 yr by Palm crazy

I have seen this same spotting to a lesser extent on a number of palms including livistona decora, mariae, mules, and arenga engleri. So perhaps my palms symptoms are not of the same root cause(cold and ice) as I haven't seen any frost in almost 2 years.

Nigel has to be right on this deal. The problems develop with cold. I'm planning on installing heating cables before this next winter. We'll see what happens.

My worst Tim hopper jubutyagrus do not grow too with hot temps...,

Seriously damage all year...

Edited July 27, 201312 yr by sergiskan

May be fungus??...,I do not know, but only fungus in those palms??

nutrient problem??..., the other Tim hopper jubutyagrus have the same care and grows better...

or just genetic???...

Buffy-

Guys: I’ve looked at all my Jubutygruses. They all have the same symptoms. Not as bad as the bed planted one, but definitely there. I think it has to be cold damage since all three are planted in different soils in different parts of the yard. I have a JubXQueen close to one of them that shows nothing. Also have the Yatay Mule nearby that shows nothing. It's the nature of some Jubutygruses. Bad brown spotting from cold. I only hit 27F with lots of nights of heavy frost and two nights with frozen snow on the fronds. And remember, one of mine is from Patric and two are from Tim. Also of note, I have two of Tim's still in pots that are exposed to all the same conditions except cold and they look perfect. One more note, in the winter of 2010-2011, we stayed below freezing for 4 days straight with an ultimate low around 15 or 16. At that time, one of my Hopper Jubutygruses was still small enough to wrap in a blanket. It came through without a blemish. So the problem is frost and frozen precipitation, not cold. These palms are susceptible to frozen water. Let's see if they will grow out of this sensitivity.

This has been my experience also, b/c when mine where planted with overhead canopy it never had any spotting on the leaves.

I will give it some fungus spray this fall, all new growth so far is normal. Problem solved for me, and I am also going to cover this smaller one this winter keep some of the rain off it. Maybe that will help.

- Roger.

Roger, I saw some large mules in gilroy which experienced many, many nights of heavy frost and even 22F last Winter. I even bought a mule from a nursery in Gilroy where it also got down to 22F and there were many nights of frost. Not a single one showed any spotting whatsoever. Mules would not get any cosmetic damage from 27F and frosty nights. I suspect something else is going on.

Thought I'd post a photo of mine with the yellowing tips. Photo taken right after I transplanted it. Today, the leaves are almost all yellow but new growth is still green.

Here's my determinations:

1. Little spots from Nitrogen deficiency due to cold soil and Butia heritage.

2. Large spots from fungus.

3. Leaf tip necrosis from oldest to youngest due to over-fertilization.

Everybody ignored my post !

Soil temp drops in winter inhibiting K and Mg take up.

Warm days encourages plant to grow. Result spotting.

If the summer growth does not show spotting but it appears in winter thats what it is !!!!

Thanks Nigel, this explains spotting on some of my palms last Winter when we had many "warm" sunny winter days

I figured the leaf necrosis out. Salts. After flushing the soil with the hose and a 6 inch rain during the past month, everything is coming out green and perfect.

I figured the leaf necrosis out. Salts. After flushing the soil with the hose and a 6 inch rain during the past month, everything is coming out green and perfect.

New growth has never been the problem, it's the older fronds. With all the rain in Florida I question whether salt injury can be involved... although the "soil" here is very poorly drained. Having exhausted other ideas I'll probably just drop the fertilizer (part of the salt story when applied excessively) and give it some time. As far as the central cause of many having problems despite varied settings & soil types, genetic vulnerability seems most probable.

Steve

Here's some interesting information about the use of Gypsum followed by thorough water drench in "sodic" soils.

"Some years ago, researchers found that if they applied large amounts of gypsum (1-10 tons/acre) followed by large amounts of irrigation water, the excess Ca from the gypsum displaces the Na in the soil and the excess water leaches the displaced Na below the root zone of the planned crop. This permits a crop to be grown successfully on that land. Of course, the excess Ca will also displace other nutrient cations such as K and Mg, so the fertility program would need to be adjusted to compensate for this loss of nutrients."

Steve

I'm just speaking for my example. The necrosis is salt. The small spotting I suspect is what Nigel mentioned with potassium uptake in cold soils. Larger spotting is fungus.