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Posted

I've been using Malathion Plus spray to control a heavy population of whiteflies. It seems to work pretty well and I usually end up spraying every 8-10 days or so.

How do the combination liquids work? I'm interested in finding a systemic insecticide with a fungicide in it as well. Can someone suggest some things for me?

Thanks,

Michael

Posted

Hi Michael,

I've used a liquid insecticide/fungicide called Immunox by Spectracide.  The active ingredients are Myclobutanil and Permethrin.  It works really good on roses where you get powdery mildew, rust spots and insects like white flies and aphids.  It handles both problems in one shot.

But the product that I prefer to use is called Bayer Rose and Flower Care.  It's a granular fertilizer (12-18-6) w/ a systemic insecticide.  The active ingredient is called Disulfoton (aka Di-syston).  It specifically lists white fly as insects killed and lasts for 6 weeks.  Now, obviously this is a rose product but it seems to work really good.  I don't like to just spray and kill all the bugs and worms but I wonder if this stuff is bad for the worms too?  It promotes good vigorous growth so fungicide is usually not needed.

I'm sure there's others out there who have a lot more experience with superior products but I wanted to respond to your post so you have all the info to compare.

Matt Bradford

"Manambe Lavaka"

Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)

10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)

9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)

Posted

Thanks for your response Matt.

How do you factor in the systemic fertilizer/insecticide with your regular fertilizing? I'm currently fertilizing every 2 months or so with Carl Pool's.

6 weeks sounds much better than every 8 days. How long have you been using it?

Thanks again and I hope others have more input.

Posted

I generally don't use insecticides outdoors.  I think that once you start in with heavy duty insecticides, you're pretty much stuck with them and your yard becomes sort of toxic.  Definitely not a good idea with kids/pets.  If your garden is generally healthy, routine spraying of trouble spots with a hard stream of water, and/or spraying affected plants with insecticidal soap works just fine.  

If you really have a major problem, Matt's suggestion of using systemics is at least the best "harsh" chemical option.  A good systemic, especially one that is absorbed by the roots (Bayer products with Imidacloprid are great, work for up to a year) can selectively kill bugs that are feeding on your plants without having such an effect on beneficial insects.  I know for sure that the Bayer product is toxic to worms though, which sucks.  I have had to resort to the Bayer product a few times in my greenhouse (where the bad bugs seem to enjoy the weather much more than the good ones) and it has never harmed a palm (~100 species tested).

For fungicide, I use Daconil.  There are definitely better/stronger fungicides (like Subdue) but they are $$$$ so I've never bothered.  As with the insectides I really limit the use outdoors for cases where a valuable palm/plant has a clear fungal problem that looks like it's going to kill the plant.  There are beneficial fungi in your soil that it's better to let live, and I doubt the worms like fungicide much.   In my greenhouse I use it more often since palm seedlings are very prone to fungal issues in general.

I wish I had a way to take out ants, though.  I've tried a lot of different methods and so far nothing seems to even make a dent.

Matt

San Diego

0.6 Acres of a south facing, gently sloped dirt pile, soon to be impenetrable jungle

East of Mount Soledad, in the biggest cold sink in San Diego County.

Zone 10a (I hope), Sunset 24

Posted
How do you factor in the systemic fertilizer/insecticide with your regular fertilizing? I'm currently fertilizing every 2 months or so with Carl Pool's.

6 weeks sounds much better than every 8 days. How long have you been using it?

I only use the systemic on my roses and that's the only food they get.  I've been using this on my roses for 3 or 4 years with good results.  I like Matt's organic approach better.  I will continue to shift my methods to more environmentally friendly one's as I learn more about it.  It's just a better way.  And if all else fails you can always spray an ants nest w/ poison if it's absolutely necessary.  I've been trying to catch mice in live traps for the last 5 years with pretty good luck.  I just go down to the Little League Field or the Canyon and let them go.  But this summer has been crazy and in order to avoid a massive population and general take over of my house I had to throw down some poison in some safe spots.  I've thrown away 2 dead/almost dead super large mice just this week.  It sucks to kill them but we had mice all over our house before and the unhealthy conditions warranted it. :(   Anyway, as nature lovers we all should do as best we can to keep it friendly.  Maybe I'll start another thread on alternative/organic, earth/animal friendly methods..... :)

Matt Bradford

"Manambe Lavaka"

Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)

10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)

9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I love Malathion, good but smells bad.  DDT is pretty good stuff too. :o  But for fungus, Lilly Miller - Microcop.  Works for me...  Pesticides are for some and not for others.  Bieng eath friendly is everyones job, I prefer to plant things... And use insecticides - lightly.  But really DDT needs to make a comeback.

Eric

Visalia, CA

Zone 9B

Hot Summers - Annual average 40+ days of 100+ degrees (no rain from April/May to October/November)

Freezes too - winter lows in high 20s

Oh yeah and Bad Air (inbetween cities with #1 and #2 ranked bad air in the nation - Fresno and Bakersfield)

WE NEED MORE TREES

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

has any of you tried Mycor palm saver.  i read as follows-

Mycor Palm Saver 8lb Jug

 

Brief Description:

NPK:6-3-6. A Palm Nutrient and soil conditioner with VA mycorrhizal fungi and beneficial bacteria. Use in planting, growing, and maintaining tropical plant species. It contains a blend of endomycorrhizal fungi,beneficial bacteria, micronutrients,fertilizer,and organic biostimulants to enrich the soil and promote fine root growth and mycorrhizal developement on newly planted or mature,but declining palm or other tropical species.

price: $36.00

i wanted to know if any one has used this, and had good results?

Gary

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