Palm Ferilizer

[DALION]

I know that many here use all sorts of fertilizers. From coffee grounds to banana peels to compost teas. But what is your favorite all-purpose fertilizer? I have been using Best (Apex) Palm Plus 13-5-8. It hasn't killed my palms so it must be ok but is there something better. Here is the link to the fact sheet for what I use. Palm Plus

Leo

[Perito]

Leo, I like Palm Plus also. Since it's a time release type fertilizer it seems pretty safe, though I'm still careful not to use too much. I also like 1/4 strength Miricle gro about once a month on my container Palms. Perry

[Jastin]

It really depends on if your using them for pots or in the ground, and how you water. I used to use Palms Plus but after realizing that it really didn't do well with drip systems I switched to Grow More 20-20-20.

[DoomsDave]

Dalion:

Apex palm plus is what I would use if I used chemicals. It's slow-release, and relatively inexpensive compared to "brandier" forumations like Osmocote.

Under the wood chip I bury: (a) wood ashes from the fireplace; ( any kind of organic plant waste, carrot tops, potato peels, etc.; © anything else that will rot. I also bury: cat poop, dead cats, dogs, birds, etc., any food that got left in the fridge too long and went bad. (Put a big rock over the top.)

[MattyB]

For the last 8 years I've used the Vigoro Palm/Ixora food available from our local home depot. I can't find a link to the label but it's 8-4-8 plus minors. It's worked great for me and it's the cheapest palm specific w/ minors fertilizer I've found; 40 Lb bag for $17.

Last year I started using Scotts Agriform Planting Tablets 20-10-5 with minors. Here's the info: Scotts Agriform Planting Tablets

They feed for up to 2 years. My method of applying fertilizer to holes poked in the ground by each drip emitter is very time consuming, so I figured that if I only had to feed once per year that would be awesome! We'll see how that goes. I think it'll take a few years before I can tell a difference. Or if I don't see any difference then I know it's working because I'll be fertilizing less frequently and still getting the same results. I'll have to keep an eye on potassium deficiencies, especially in my Pritchardia, because the K is pretty low. But I got a bag of Sul-Po-Mag that I'll throw around in the winter rains to combat that.

[Gonzer]

Those small blue spherules in Apex have a nasty habit of laying around long after the fertilizer has leached out. This can lead some novices who don't feed according to a set schedule to a false sense that the fertilizer is still viable. They need to re-formulate the blue coating. Myself, I use Grow Power Plus 5-3-1, coffee grounds and mulch.

[Dypsisdean]

My philosophy is to use different ferts. The thinking being that what one lacks the others may have. That being said, I have used Palm Plus a lot. But I am pretty sure the last Palm Plus I bought here in Hawaii had boron - your reference showed no boron.

But I don't think there is any substitute for good organic practices as well - with abundant humus and top dressings of mulch. It will save water, help with weed control, keep the soil aerated, and provide a slow release of nutrients.

Regarding wood ashes - I would be very careful using them in areas of high pH and alkalinity - such as SoCal and Florida. Research will confirm the following...

"If your soil is very acidic (5.5 of lower), wood ash can improve your soil pH. If your soil is neutral or alkaline to begin with, adding wood ash could raise the pH high enough to interfere with plants ability to take in nutrients." After analyzing my soil in SoCal, I chose not to use my fireplace ashes in the garden.

Soils with abundant organic material and rainfall (like forests) generally have low pH, so can benefit from applications of ash. You can buy a cheap soil test kit at a Big Box or nursery - or some will even do it for you. I am surprised how many serious gardeners have never checked their soil. Hmmmm, I feel a poll coming on.

[Got Palms]

Leo i have been using EZ Flow in line fertilizing system since i started my garden, it fertilizes every time i water with drip system, i use their seaweed water soluble fert all year and anything on sale at stores especially the fish emulsion and vitamin B2. i also use a systemic insecticide which keeps the critters of my palms ive heard people contradict using systemic because it kills worm activety around the palms but i have yet to see that situation i have plenty of worm activity and have not seen any negative results!

[Walter John]

I've tried everything and vote for manures as my all time best fert (apart from liquid sea product fertilisers), in order Sheep-Horse-Cow and all topped with mulch. I've had issues with chemical pellets and that may in part relate to what time of year and to what species they are being applied to, because not all palms respond the same way with same fertiliser, which we all know, don't we ? Hope this helps.

[richnorm]

I'm with Wal, feed the soil.... Mother (nature) knows best!

[FNQ Marcus]

I like using ck77s (13-2-13) plus chelated iron and seaweed solution on my native gardens. Is this going to be good for my new palm collection or should I be something more palm specific?

[BS Man about Palms]

Once or twice or year I THINK about fertilising... thats about as far as I get. I DID apply probably 8" of mulch a couple years ago, I suspect I am way overdue....

[CardiffPalmNut]

No Bill the weeds seem to love what your doing, dont change a thing.

[MattyB]

Dont fertilize bill, youre weeds will be taller than the house

[Jastin]

I also apply worm tea, mulch, and superthrive

[Peter]

Has anyone used milorganite?

[Hammer]

Those small blue spherules in Apex have a nasty habit of laying around long after the fertilizer has leached out. This can lead some novices who don't feed according to a set schedule to a false sense that the fertilizer is still viable. They need to re-formulate the blue coating. Myself, I use Grow Power Plus 5-3-1, coffee grounds and mulch.

I use the same methods more or less. Grow Power 4 8 2. Coffee grounds and organic compost. I've had a recent infestation of spider mites and thrips. So I've supplemented with a systemtemic insecticide that doubles as a fertilizer. It's a Bayer product but I don't recall that exact name.

[Walter John]

Once or twice or year I THINK about fertilising... thats about as far as I get. I DID apply probably 8" of mulch a couple years ago, I suspect I am way overdue....

Say Bill, I've had conversations with long time palm tree growers over the years and a few believe fertilisers are in fact well and truly over rated. Get the soil in order, get dem worms a' swimmin' unner neeth, mulch can never be denied.

Just sayin'...

[Tassie_Troy1971]

I use Nutricote 180 day total with trace elements . Pedro put me onto this and it have made a HUGE diference .

I also mix up seasol (liquid kelp ) diluted with water and foliar speay all my palms every fortnight . I also feed my palms liquid kelp once a month.

Apex palms plus must be quite a good fertilizer - take a look at the growth in Gary Levines garden for example !

[Gonzer]

Those small blue spherules in Apex have a nasty habit of laying around long after the fertilizer has leached out. This can lead some novices who don't feed according to a set schedule to a false sense that the fertilizer is still viable. They need to re-formulate the blue coating. Myself, I use Grow Power Plus 5-3-1, coffee grounds and mulch.

I use the same methods more or less. Grow Power 4 8 2. Coffee grounds and organic compost. I've had a recent infestation of spider mites and thrips. So I've supplemented with a systemtemic insecticide that doubles as a fertilizer. It's a Bayer product but I don't recall that exact name.

Hammer, I referred to that product in an earlier post; Core-Tect® Great stuff. Remember though, Imidacloprid does not work on Spider Mite. You need a miticide for that.

Edited May 17, 2012 by Gonzer

[Jeff Searle]

No Bill the weeds seem to love what your doing, dont change a thing.

[Tomw]

First off I think that it all depends on where you live and what kind of soil conditions that you have. Here in south Florida our soil has a lot of sand in it and the minors get washed thru. I use Nurserymen’s Sure-Gro in-ground Palm Special (8-2-12) (the latest I.F.A.S. recommendation for in ground palms). 100% of Nitrogen and Potash from slow-release ingredients Magnesium from Kierserite 'gran,' Manganese mostly from Tecmangam, with increased levels of Boron and Chelated Iron. You can read more here: Basic Palm Nutrition I also supplement with a fertilizer from a “local” (Growers Fertilizer Corporation) source 12-04-12 Palm and Ornamental 50% Coated N and K.

[palmislandRandy]

I haven't seen anyone else suggest feeding the growing point. This D. leptocheilos was destined for the chain saw this spring. It's planted on marl, struggled & has never looked decent. The high PH tends to lock out the iron from the plants. It was suggested by Marshall at Folsom Palms to bypass the roots & fertilize the growing point directly. I used a mixture of Sequestene 138 (iron), Microplex & some opened B-12 capsules all mixed with water & sprayed. Well look at the results 6 months later! The 3rd photo shows how the leaves opened previous to the treatment. I'm sold on this method & give all my palms a squirt monthly. Has anyone else tried this?

[Jastin]

That's very interesting, I don't really understand though...I though the roots were the things that took up water and nutrients, then supplied it to the leaves/growing point through the xylem/phloem. Does the palm absorb the little ammount that would stay in the crown? Wouldn't this make it susceptible to pink rot?

[Mandrew968]

For the last 8 years I've used the Vigoro Palm/Ixora food available from our local home depot. I can't find a link to the label but it's 8-4-8 plus minors. It's worked great for me and it's the cheapest palm specific w/ minors fertilizer I've found; 40 Lb bag for $17.

Last year I started using Scotts Agriform Planting Tablets 20-10-5 with minors. Here's the info: Scotts Agriform Planting Tablets

They feed for up to 2 years. My method of applying fertilizer to holes poked in the ground by each drip emitter is very time consuming, so I figured that if I only had to feed once per year that would be awesome! We'll see how that goes. I think it'll take a few years before I can tell a difference. Or if I don't see any difference then I know it's working because I'll be fertilizing less frequently and still getting the same results. I'll have to keep an eye on potassium deficiencies, especially in my Pritchardia, because the K is pretty low. But I got a bag of Sul-Po-Mag that I'll throw around in the winter rains to combat that.

I use the same fertilizer Matty does. I add Ironite to some of the iron lovers. I also add peat to almost everything.

Edited May 17, 2012 by Mandrew968

[palmislandRandy]

That's very interesting, I don't really understand though...I though the roots were the things that took up water and nutrients, then supplied it to the leaves/growing point through the xylem/phloem. Does the palm absorb the little ammount that would stay in the crown? Wouldn't this make it susceptible to pink rot?

I never encountered pink rot here. The gentleman I got the recipe from also adds some Heritage (fungicide) & some soap to make it stick to the mix also. I don't know the mechanics of how this works, but I see the results. Maybe like a foliar spray? Some crowns have more of a "pocket" than others. He uses this mix on his entire farm & addition to well aged stable litter & K-Mag.

[Mike Evans]

This is a good publication from University of South Florida. Read page 4 & 5. Palm Nutrition Guide

I found a very good 10-4-10 turf fertilizer that contains a slow release nitrogen and a slow release magnesium sulfate (kieserite), that works better in higher alkaline soils. It is manufactured by Howard Fertilizer in central FL. This is what I use for in ground palms & sell to my customers. It also has all the micros that is described in this article. Actually, I think it is better than their Palm Special Fert. Florikan Nutircote works best for containers, but is expensive. Oh course, heavy mulch works wonders.

"Good fertilizer is not cheap & Cheap fertilizer is not good"

[Hammer]

Those small blue spherules in Apex have a nasty habit of laying around long after the fertilizer has leached out. This can lead some novices who don't feed according to a set schedule to a false sense that the fertilizer is still viable. They need to re-formulate the blue coating. Myself, I use Grow Power Plus 5-3-1, coffee grounds and mulch.

I use the same methods more or less. Grow Power 4 8 2. Coffee grounds and organic compost. I've had a recent infestation of spider mites and thrips. So I've supplemented with a systemtemic insecticide that doubles as a fertilizer. It's a Bayer product but I don't recall that exact name.

Hammer, I referred to that product in an earlier post; Core-Tect® Great stuff. Remember though, Imidacloprid does not work on Spider Mite. You need a miticide for that.

Yes thanks for that reminder. I had the stuff outside and it was too late to go look at the label.

[Moose]

This is a good publication from University of South Florida. Read page 4 & 5. Palm Nutrition Guide

I found a very good 10-4-10 turf fertilizer that contains a slow release nitrogen and a slow release magnesium sulfate (kieserite), that works better in higher alkaline soils. It is manufactured by Howard Fertilizer in central FL. This is what I use for in ground palms & sell to my customers. It also has all the micros that is described in this article. Actually, I think it is better than their Palm Special Fert. Florikan Nutircote works best for containers, but is expensive. Oh course, heavy mulch works wonders.

"Good fertilizer is not cheap & Cheap fertilizer is not good"

[edbrown_III]

I have a related question what is K-Mag? is something special or just Potash and Epsom salt.

I have been applying both to a palm to correct problems but a slow release formulation would be preferred.

Any advice would be welcomed

Best r egards

Ed

I

[palmislandRandy]

I have a related question what is K-Mag? is something special or just Potash and Epsom salt.

I have been applying both to a palm to correct problems but a slow release formulation would be preferred.

Any advice would be welcomed

Best r egards

Ed

I

Ed, K-Mag is a slow release combination of potassium/magnesium. I use tons of the stuff to correct the yellow spotting & stippling on some palms. Make sure you get the slow release not the "greens grade"

[Jastin]

For the last 8 years I've used the Vigoro Palm/Ixora food available from our local home depot. I can't find a link to the label but it's 8-4-8 plus minors. It's worked great for me and it's the cheapest palm specific w/ minors fertilizer I've found; 40 Lb bag for $17.

Last year I started using Scotts Agriform Planting Tablets 20-10-5 with minors. Here's the info: Scotts Agriform Planting Tablets

They feed for up to 2 years. My method of applying fertilizer to holes poked in the ground by each drip emitter is very time consuming, so I figured that if I only had to feed once per year that would be awesome! We'll see how that goes. I think it'll take a few years before I can tell a difference. Or if I don't see any difference then I know it's working because I'll be fertilizing less frequently and still getting the same results. I'll have to keep an eye on potassium deficiencies, especially in my Pritchardia, because the K is pretty low. But I got a bag of Sul-Po-Mag that I'll throw around in the winter rains to combat that.

I use the same fertilizer Matty does. I add Ironite to some of the iron lovers. I also add peat to almost everything.

Which ones are the iron lovers?

[BS Man about Palms]

So.. now that the weeds be gone, I be lookin'

[WestCoastGal]

LOL. That's a good thing.

We just stopped in to our nursery today in fact and picked up a 50 lb bag of fertilizer, same stuff we have been using since we started with our palms (14-4-9 Super Palm, slow release). They seem to like it so we're happy to keep them happy. Plus they received mulch this past fall too. The temps the last few days have been in the 70s and they look like happy campers that spring is here. The mountains are green from our recent rains, and the grass is greening up too. The flowering trees are all in bloom (pinks and whites), one of our mules has inflourescence as well as our trachy and mediterranean. Nothing yet on the butias. The sabal minor is still holding on to it's black fruit. What an emotional lift after this crappy cold winter.

[_Keith]

For the last 8 years I've used the Vigoro Palm/Ixora food available from our local home depot. I can't find a link to the label but it's 8-4-8 plus minors. It's worked great for me and it's the cheapest palm specific w/ minors fertilizer I've found; 40 Lb bag for $17.

Last year I started using Scotts Agriform Planting Tablets 20-10-5 with minors. Here's the info: Scotts Agriform Planting Tablets

They feed for up to 2 years. My method of applying fertilizer to holes poked in the ground by each drip emitter is very time consuming, so I figured that if I only had to feed once per year that would be awesome! We'll see how that goes. I think it'll take a few years before I can tell a difference. Or if I don't see any difference then I know it's working because I'll be fertilizing less frequently and still getting the same results. I'll have to keep an eye on potassium deficiencies, especially in my Pritchardia, because the K is pretty low. But I got a bag of Sul-Po-Mag that I'll throw around in the winter rains to combat that.

So Matt, it's been a while since you posted this. Did you stick with the tablets? Have they lived up to your expectations?

[MattyB]

Everything seems happy. I've been using both types plus ironite, sulpomag, dolomite, compost, so I don't really have any results to share.

[Palmdude]

I amend all my planting holes with lots of peat some composted manure and a big bag of miracle grow garden soil. Then I fertilize twice a year with Florikan palm special 14 4 14. I've had my garden for 5 years now and the sand is turning more like soil and worms are starting to show up. I'll go organic eventually but I started with just sand so there were no micro beasties to speak of in my soil. Lots of organic matter and compost are added to the beds in general not necessarily to my palms/plants to try to build a living soil, it's gotten a lot better and everything goes nuts over the growing season. The Florikan seems to work very well for me and I use it on all palms and ornamentals and bamboo. The phosphate number is low because the soil in Florida already has enough

http://florikan.com/labels/14-4-14-300-LND.pdf

[_Keith]

Everything seems happy. I've been using both types plus ironite, sulpomag, dolomite, compost, so I don't really have any results to share.

Thanks for the reply. The tablets are attractive being easy to deal with and more compact than spikes. Of course, I have always been wary of something too good to be true, as it usually turns out not to be.

[thepoolwonk]

Cow manure, and salt. Just like they do it in The Phillipines.

[Tropicdoc]

Can you get apex palm plus online?