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Posted (edited)

I've been planting hardier palms recently because of colder winters we've had the past 4 years or so.

I planted this yellowing Butia last spring (along with the Butia of similar size just to the left of it in this picture). It was NOT yellowing when I planted it. The yellowing appeared later last summer while the Butia's to the left and right of it stayed dark green and grew very well. The yellowing has not affected the growth, it's growing pretty well. The newest leaves are yellow when they first come out. They slowly turn green with age. Is this a problem or just a variation on how these palms grow? I thought it might be a fungus so I started putting fugus powder on it along with palm fertilizer last fall.post-1448-049048000 1301563304_thumb.jpg

Edited by JimStPete
Posted

Here's another shot of the yellow butia along with the larger one to the right of it that has been in the ground for 3 years.

post-1448-036805200 1301563436_thumb.jpg

Posted

Here's a close up of the yellowing Butia. Any input from all of you on how I can help this palm will be appreciated.

post-1448-030721100 1301563731_thumb.jpg

Posted

Epsom Salt come to mind for some reason.

Brandon, FL

27.95°N 82.28°W (Elev. 62 ft)

Zone9 w/ canopy

Posted

Epsom Salt is the one thing I've never really used on my palms (up until now). Now that most fertilizers are banned (not sold in stores here) I'm going to have to look for alternatives...and Epsom Salt was what the nursery guy told me to try too.

I appreciate your reply! Thank you.

Posted

Personally I would use one of the treatments for chlorosis in Rhododendrons or Camelias because they contain chelated nutrients that the plant needs to green up.

In my opinion this is the best treatment on the market for a yellow palm.

Resident in Bristol UK.

Webshop for hardy palms and hybrid seeds www.hardy-palms.co.uk

Posted

Some of mine do the same thing. Chelated iron greens them up.

Martin Farris, San Angelo, TX

San Angelo Cold Hardy Palms and Cycads

Jul - 92F/69F, Jan - 55F/31F

Lows:

02-03: 18F;

03-04: 19F;

04-05: 17F;

05-06: 11F;

06-07: 13F;

07-08: 14F 147.5 Freezing Degree-Hours http://www.palmtalk.org/forum/index.php?sh...ee+hours\;

08-09: 23F;

09-10: 12F 467.6 Freezing Degree Hours, Average Temperature During Freeze 24.2F;

10-11: 13F 1,059.5 Freezing Degree Hours with Strong Winds/Rain/Snow/Sleet, Average Temperature During Freeze 19.4F;

Record low -4F in 1989 (High of 36F that p.m.) 1,125.2 freezing degree hours, Average Temperature During Freeze 13.6F;

Record Freeze 1983: 2,300.3 Freezing Degree Hours with a low of 5F, Average Temperature During Freeze 13.7F.

Posted

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions! Epsom Salt has been applied and I will now be on the lookout for Chelated iron to apply asap!

Posted

This is a link to the product I used in the UK. Every garden centre sold this stuff so I imagine its no different in the states.

This has magnesium too,as well as sequestered iron which is also important.Always greened up my chlorotic palms which epsom salts rarely did.

http://www.doffgarden.co.uk/product/sequestered-iron-plant-tonic

Resident in Bristol UK.

Webshop for hardy palms and hybrid seeds www.hardy-palms.co.uk

Posted

The only yellow butias I see here are planted in or near lawns. It could be water-related.

Adam 

 

Posted

This is a link to the product I used in the UK. Every garden centre sold this stuff so I imagine its no different in the states.

This has magnesium too,as well as sequestered iron which is also important.Always greened up my chlorotic palms which epsom salts rarely did.

http://www.doffgarden.co.uk/product/sequestered-iron-plant-tonic

Thank you for sharing this link with me Nigel! I'll look for this in the local stores first. If I can't find it there, I'll buy it on line. I appreciate your help with this problem!

Posted

I did a search for the product Nigel mentioned and don't see it from any US stores. I use Sequestrene 138 on my Butias. http://www.beckerunderwood.com/en/products/sequestrene

Martin Farris, San Angelo, TX

San Angelo Cold Hardy Palms and Cycads

Jul - 92F/69F, Jan - 55F/31F

Lows:

02-03: 18F;

03-04: 19F;

04-05: 17F;

05-06: 11F;

06-07: 13F;

07-08: 14F 147.5 Freezing Degree-Hours http://www.palmtalk.org/forum/index.php?sh...ee+hours\;

08-09: 23F;

09-10: 12F 467.6 Freezing Degree Hours, Average Temperature During Freeze 24.2F;

10-11: 13F 1,059.5 Freezing Degree Hours with Strong Winds/Rain/Snow/Sleet, Average Temperature During Freeze 19.4F;

Record low -4F in 1989 (High of 36F that p.m.) 1,125.2 freezing degree hours, Average Temperature During Freeze 13.6F;

Record Freeze 1983: 2,300.3 Freezing Degree Hours with a low of 5F, Average Temperature During Freeze 13.7F.

Posted

martin its a pity you dont have a product with magnesium included , I am surprised because its normal to go with sequestered iron here. Normally its the same thing on both sides of the pond.

Resident in Bristol UK.

Webshop for hardy palms and hybrid seeds www.hardy-palms.co.uk

Posted

...yard looks cool bro.

I gotta get me some of that edgin' material to hold my mulch madness in... :blink:

~Ray.

Brandon, FL

27.95°N 82.28°W (Elev. 62 ft)

Zone9 w/ canopy

Posted

martin its a pity you dont have a product with magnesium included , I am surprised because its normal to go with sequestered iron here. Normally its the same thing on both sides of the pond.

It works out ok. The Butias seem to green right up with the chelated iron only, at least in my soil. Couldn't you get the magnesium by adding Epsom Salt, or is the magnesium in the product you use chelated too?

Martin Farris, San Angelo, TX

San Angelo Cold Hardy Palms and Cycads

Jul - 92F/69F, Jan - 55F/31F

Lows:

02-03: 18F;

03-04: 19F;

04-05: 17F;

05-06: 11F;

06-07: 13F;

07-08: 14F 147.5 Freezing Degree-Hours http://www.palmtalk.org/forum/index.php?sh...ee+hours\;

08-09: 23F;

09-10: 12F 467.6 Freezing Degree Hours, Average Temperature During Freeze 24.2F;

10-11: 13F 1,059.5 Freezing Degree Hours with Strong Winds/Rain/Snow/Sleet, Average Temperature During Freeze 19.4F;

Record low -4F in 1989 (High of 36F that p.m.) 1,125.2 freezing degree hours, Average Temperature During Freeze 13.6F;

Record Freeze 1983: 2,300.3 Freezing Degree Hours with a low of 5F, Average Temperature During Freeze 13.7F.

Posted

Dang, that's the wierdest thing I've ever seen.

I've never had a palm do that.

I guess Iron Chelate ("KEE-late") might work, if the problem is iron deficiency. Your other palms appear to have no problems at all.

It won't hurt to try some chelate; if it's not what you need, it shouldn't hurt anything, unless you go totally simian poopy in the amount

Let's keep our forum fun and friendly.

Any data in this post is provided 'as is' and in no event shall I be liable for any damages, including, without limitation, damages resulting from accuracy or lack thereof, insult, or lost profits or revenue, claims by third parties or for other similar costs, or any special, incidental, or consequential damages arising out of my opinion or the use of this data. The accuracy or reliability of the data is not guaranteed or warranted in any way and I disclaim liability of any kind whatsoever, including, without limitation, liability for quality, performance, merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose arising out of the use, or inability to use my data. Other terms may apply.

Posted

Dang, that's the wierdest thing I've ever seen.

I've never had a palm do that.

I guess Iron Chelate ("KEE-late") might work, if the problem is iron deficiency. Your other palms appear to have no problems at all.

It won't hurt to try some chelate; if it's not what you need, it shouldn't hurt anything, unless you go totally simian poopy in the amount

It actually seems to be the norm with Butias. There seems to be a wide degree of variability with regard to their ability to utilize iron in high pH or deficient soils, or maybe some plants have a higher requirement for it than others. I've got a clump of three Butias planted right next to each other with the trunks nearly touching. Two of the 3 trees turn yellow without chelated iron (one much worse than the other), and the other is just fine without any. I might add that the ones that don't need iron are those I suspect of having some Jubaea genes because of their wider leaf bases, tomentum covered spathes, and fiber instead of teeth on the lower petioles.

Martin Farris, San Angelo, TX

San Angelo Cold Hardy Palms and Cycads

Jul - 92F/69F, Jan - 55F/31F

Lows:

02-03: 18F;

03-04: 19F;

04-05: 17F;

05-06: 11F;

06-07: 13F;

07-08: 14F 147.5 Freezing Degree-Hours http://www.palmtalk.org/forum/index.php?sh...ee+hours\;

08-09: 23F;

09-10: 12F 467.6 Freezing Degree Hours, Average Temperature During Freeze 24.2F;

10-11: 13F 1,059.5 Freezing Degree Hours with Strong Winds/Rain/Snow/Sleet, Average Temperature During Freeze 19.4F;

Record low -4F in 1989 (High of 36F that p.m.) 1,125.2 freezing degree hours, Average Temperature During Freeze 13.6F;

Record Freeze 1983: 2,300.3 Freezing Degree Hours with a low of 5F, Average Temperature During Freeze 13.7F.

Posted

...yard looks cool bro.

I gotta get me some of that edgin' material to hold my mulch madness in... :blink:

~Ray.

Thanks Ray!

Posted

Dang, that's the wierdest thing I've ever seen.

I've never had a palm do that.

I guess Iron Chelate ("KEE-late") might work, if the problem is iron deficiency. Your other palms appear to have no problems at all.

It won't hurt to try some chelate; if it's not what you need, it shouldn't hurt anything, unless you go totally simian poopy in the amount

It actually seems to be the norm with Butias. There seems to be a wide degree of variability with regard to their ability to utilize iron in high pH or deficient soils, or maybe some plants have a higher requirement for it than others. I've got a clump of three Butias planted right next to each other with the trunks nearly touching. Two of the 3 trees turn yellow without chelated iron (one much worse than the other), and the other is just fine without any. I might add that the ones that don't need iron are those I suspect of having some Jubaea genes because of their wider leaf bases, tomentum covered spathes, and fiber instead of teeth on the lower petioles.

I thought this situation was weird too. Three Butias, all in a row, same soil, same moisture, same care (fertilizing/mulching) and this one palm just seems to have a problem. I bought all three of them at Home Depot which sells them as 'Jelly Palms' so there is no way of knowing what the genetic makeup of the palms are other than by examining them and making a guess.

I definitely appreciate the input all of you have provided! I'll find a good product to put on this palm to try and help it along!

Posted

I seen a couple cool lookin' Butia 3gals at my local HD the other day...

They were cool as heck with 'windows'. :drool:

And another season has come where they stock the infamous coconut. :blink:

I noticed they smartened up and stock A. cunni's instead of regular Archies now...

~Ray.

Brandon, FL

27.95°N 82.28°W (Elev. 62 ft)

Zone9 w/ canopy

Posted (edited)

I agree with martin, for some reason they cant get some elements from the soil. In the UK the most common cause is too much wet or soil too cold. A common spring pronblem. Chelated iron usually works fine because it delivers iron and magnesium in a way the plant can get that isnt locked up.

If its working without magnesium the problem must be in taking up iron in cold or wet soil, or maybe for another reason such as wrong ph etc.

I suspect the plant will grow out of it as the root system spreads out and down.

Edited by Nigel

Resident in Bristol UK.

Webshop for hardy palms and hybrid seeds www.hardy-palms.co.uk

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