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Posted

I have heard that Dypsis decipiens should be planted high because it will pull itself further into the soil. I planted mine in April and it has REALLY attached itself to the ground and has pulled itself down closer to where the soil line is getting closer to the growing point. I have heard that the growing point is below th soil line that it could spell disaster for the plant. Enclosed are a few pix of mine. Do I need to dig a little around it to expose more of the growing point or am I just trippin'? I hate to lose this one. This is round four for me. Thanks for any advice.

DSC_0725.jpg

DSC_0723.jpg

DSC_0724.jpg

Mike

  • Upvote 1

Mike Hegger

Northwest Clairemont

San Diego, California

4 miles from coast

Posted

I've killed mine- several times- probably by doing exactly what it is you want to do :angry:

If you ask me it doesn't look too deep in those photos. And if you're in San Diego you're relatively dry; you don't have a super wet winter on the horizon which is what I get- that's when things rot out for me. I think you're okay but I'd wait for others to chime in as well.

Looks nice, BTW!

  • Upvote 1

Oakley, California

55 Miles E-NE of San Francisco, CA

Solid zone 9, I can expect at least one night in the mid to low twenties every year.

Hot, dry summers. Cold, wet winters.

Posted

It looks fine. My decipiens crown is also below the soil line. Just keep it on the dry side.

Randy :)

"If you need me, I'll be outside" -Randy Wiesner Palm Beach County, Florida Zone 10Bish

Posted

if the growing point rots you will have a dead D.D.

I think Matt and Bill have alot of experience with these and when Bill told me to be careful I dug by hand.

this summer I got MAJOR growth so they are happy...................

  • Upvote 1
Posted

I would just make sure its "porous" in there. In other words, excavate a bit and put pea gravel, or bigger bark, or something like that. "cold mud" is the killer as it were.

(remember that phrase, Paul and Matty do)

Once the growing point is several inches above ground, its usually fine. Also, go VERY sparingly on the water over the winter. If at all.

You could leave it more or less the way it is and just periodically check it during the winter that the point is "dry".

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

Posted

Those look ready for winter Rafael.

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

Posted

Thanks for the tips guys. I planted my decipiens in April this past spring and it has opened three fronds since and you can see in the picture the next spear is already a few inches long. I hope by this time next year the growing point won't be and issue anymore.

Mike Hegger

Northwest Clairemont

San Diego, California

4 miles from coast

Posted

Do what Bill suggested. It's easy. Just gently dig out the dirt with your fingers, expose some stem and even some of the "saxaphone" is fine, and backfill with gravel. The gravel can be over the growing point, just don't let the dirt go over it. They'll usually do fine if they bury themselves as long as you don't overwater and if your drainage is good, but that's the ideal way.

Matt Bradford

"Manambe Lavaka"

Spring Valley, CA (8.5 miles inland from San Diego Bay)

10B on the hill (635 ft. elevation)

9B in the canyon (520 ft. elevation)

Posted

Do what Bill suggested. It's easy. Just gently dig out the dirt with your fingers, expose some stem and even some of the "saxaphone" is fine, and backfill with gravel. The gravel can be over the growing point, just don't let the dirt go over it. They'll usually do fine if they bury themselves as long as you don't overwater and if your drainage is good, but that's the ideal way.

Thanks for the advice MattyB. I always thought that I should keep the "saxaphone" (new terminology for me)buried. Nice o know that it's ok to expose it.

Mike Hegger

Northwest Clairemont

San Diego, California

4 miles from coast

Posted

If needed, I'll generally expose it down to "virgin" roots if you will...but keep them covered.

Zone 10a at best after 2007 AND 2013, on SW facing hill, 1 1/2 miles from coast in Oceanside, CA. 30-98 degrees, and 45-80deg. about 95% of the time.

"The great workman of nature is time."   ,  "Genius is nothing but a great aptitude for patience."

-George-Louis Leclerc de Buffon-

I do some experiments and learning in my garden with palms so you don't have to experience the pain! Look at my old threads to find various observations and tips!

Posted

If needed, I'll generally expose it down to "virgin" roots if you will...but keep them covered.

So this would be ok with seedlings?

Mike Hegger

Northwest Clairemont

San Diego, California

4 miles from coast

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